|
|
Veteran
Posts: 211
Location: Suwanee, GA | 62 Chrysler:
I've been doing my own front end alignments for several years, but never for one with power steering. I have a set of turn plates and caster/camber gauge. I'm struggling resolving my issue with the car pulling to the right, and I'm questioning whether the control valve is the culprit.
Specs are (radial tires):
LH caster: +1.5deg
RH caster: +1.5deg
LH camber: -.17deg
RH camber: -.84deg
toe: 1/16 - 1/8
Parts replaced: ball joints, control arm bushings, strut rod bushings, wheels/tires, wheel bearings. Parts still original to the car: steering box, pitman arm, idler arm, all tie rods.
I have much more RH negative camber than I'd like and have the adjustment in the rear eccentric to correct it, but it comes at the expense of positive caster. Since caster is the same for both sides, I don't think this is the reason for pulling right.
Questions:
1. if the inner/outer tie rod distances aren't the same side to side such that the steering wheel is off center to the right, would this naturally position the control valve for power assistance to the right?
2. I'd like a minimum of 2deg positive caster both sides but cannot get close or possibly at all without severely going negative on camber. I've seen offset bushings for the upper control arms for other years to gain more caster, but I don't think they fit 62. Was wondering if I could laser cut new adjustment eccentrics with the hole further out to gain more caster, or at least maintain 1.5deg, but also pull the camber back to 0deg. Is this a viable option, or are there better options? I might be able to dial back to 1.25deg caster to improve camber, but really don't want to.
3. I've found little online as to the effects of unequal camber side to side. Based on one person's comments my car's imbalance would try to steer the car back to the left. Is this correct?
Thanks,
Robert
| |
| |
Expert
Posts: 2007
Location: Branson, MO | I can’t help with anything except the valve issue. Jack the car up so the front tires are off the ground, start the car up and see if there is any evidence of self steering. If not, see if you can induce it by slightly turning the steering wheel in the direction that you suspect is where the problem lies. If there is none, turn the steering wheel both left and right to see/feel any difference in resistance. If not, it probably is not a valve issue.
Hope this helps. | |
| |
Expert 5K+
Posts: 9895
Location: So. Cal | You could do what Herb McCandless does. He cuts the front end of the upper control arm and lengthens it by 1/2" to get better caster and camber specs on his cars. This is from his new Imperial Limo. Before this he had 0 Caster, 0 Camber. After he had 1.5 Caster, -.5 Camber. Also, 0.7 degrees of difference between the camber doesn't sound like a lot, but I would bet it's not good - especially if you are running wider wheels.
Edited by Powerflite 2023-06-04 5:23 PM
(McCandless Control Arm Lengthened 0.5in.jpg)
(McCandless Control Arm Lengthened Trial Fit.jpg)
(McCandless Control Arm Installed.jpg)
Attachments ---------------- McCandless Control Arm Lengthened 0.5in.jpg (194KB - 96 downloads) McCandless Control Arm Lengthened Trial Fit.jpg (101KB - 88 downloads) McCandless Control Arm Installed.jpg (92KB - 95 downloads)
| |
| |
Expert
Posts: 3433
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Couple of questions, we also do our own alignments in the shop. Anyway, specs say it should drift slightly to the left, when, did this start? Have you swapped front tires side to side? You shouldn't have to do any mods to the suspension here. Both my old 55 , and my friends 59 Coronet are set up like your caster, the 55 needed shims on the lower arms to get about 1.0 degree positive caster. And yes if the gear box is slightly off center, with the wheels straight ahead as mentioned, it can pull.
Edited by Shep 2023-06-04 6:57 PM
| |
| |
Veteran
Posts: 211
Location: Suwanee, GA | Thanks for the suggestions. Responses:
I did not raise the front wheels, but did turn the steering wheel while running and on the turn plates. When turning fairly far left and releasing the wheel, it does seem to turn back further toward center than when turning fairly far right and releasing. I need to retest with front end in the air.
Interesting approach on Herb's car.
Have only visually inspected the tires. They look the same and no noticeable wear. I doubt they have 2000 miles on them. I have yet to swap them side to side. I do have a bit more looseness in the RH wheel bearings. Not bad, but unsure the effects.
My 65 Mustang uses shims. I was able to get +3 deg caster both sides. It is by far the straightest driving old car I've owned. Of course it's a pain in tight turns as it has the quicker ratio steering box. I'd really like the wagon to drive straight and feel more stable as well.
Likely won't be able to get back to this for several days. Thanks guys. | |
|
|