http://www.forwardlook.net The Forward Look Network - Engine, Exhaust, Fuel and Ignition http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80777 I have done this conversion on previous Slant 6 powered cars I have owned (or they owned me)
I have got the Coil , Module , Heat Sink and relay from a previous conversion .
A friend has a Electronic Distributor I can use .
Questions are ,
Will this work with a Generator ?
What Voltage Regulator will I need ?
I used one of these previously on the Slant 6 conversion as was recommended .

https://checkout.rarespares.net.au/products/voltage-regulator-eh-hq-xa-xb-xc-with-bosch-alternator-m38667?variant=43830079226028&country=AU&currency=AUD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=AfmBOoqchCv3MbTBPQZNAppF7OVdo1disucTCJwIqOJU25mIWhObERuOxhA

These only have pins for 2 wires .
I notice the Regulator in my 58 Dodge has 3 wires .
Your help would be appreciated .
Cheers ,
Bucket .
]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80818 I know there are adapters for this but I've read about the need to plug a oil by-pass on the engine.
I'm not sure if this engine needs it, where it is or how to go about it.

Any suggestions on where to buy the adapter?

Thanks.]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80816 ]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80783 A few weeks ago, when I was "playing" with the lifters, i.e. removing and cleaning, soaking, pump and reinstalling, I went cheap on the passenger
side valve cover gasket and reused it, supplemented with a bit of red Permatex RTV. I thought it would be fine - but it wasn't. :( :stressed:

The oil in the head was dripping out the lower edge of the valve cover, down onto the exhaust manifold and then onto the down pipe. Smoking
like a chimney and baking onto the down pipe. :bleh:

So I had to kick my self in my ass and remove the valve cover (again), scrape out all the RTV where I had added it and find and install a new cork
gasket.

I put some red RTV right on the lower edge of the head and up the sides about 2" and then applied a new cork gasket (I had one afterall). I held the lower
edge of the gasket down over night with the lower valve cover bolts (and valve cover) just to get the gasket set in place. The next day, I removed the bolts
and the valve cover. Then I applied some RTV to to the lower inner lip of the valves cover (and up the sides about 2") before installing the valve cover
"properly". I let it sit over night before I added some reasonable torque to the valve cover nuts and bolts.

When I started the car and let it run for a bit, there was still some oil dripping onto the downpipe. NOT HAPPY.

Then I found a video that suggests that RTV and cork are not compatible.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-Hpsudn1yY

I drove the car (56 Dodge D500) yesterday and the dripping seems to have slowed down or stopped. That said, I accept that I might have to
do this all over again. *IF* that is true, I need a better material. JUST RTV? JUST CORK? OR Neoprene?

So the question is:

"IS there an neoprene valve cover gasket for the 241, 270, 315 and 325 family of Dodge baby hemis?"

What I was looking at before:

]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80795 My 413 harmonic balance with 4 sheave is shaking a lot and have Lots of vibrations, the rubber on both are gone.
Se that Moparmall will have them remanufactured
Is there any other solution?
I don’t have any ac components in use and have no plan of it either
We are in the middle of summer here in Sweden and want to use the car.
]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80793 For the past few weeks I have been trying to dig myself out of "hole" that I created by reusing a 9 year old cork D500 hemi valve
cover gasket. Applying red RTV on the old gasket did not work. It leaked badly.

To investigate a hemi ("double rocker for the purists) valve cover gasket, it is necessary to remove the spark plugs
and tubes. Once the gasket has been dealt with, it is necessary reinstall the spark plugs in their metal tubes.

The prescribed method of doing that is to install the plug into the tube and then lower the assembly, with the spark plug
socket (and extension) through the valve cover and into the well in the head

"do not drop the spark plugs into the tubes as this may cause the
gaps to close up. When installing, place a spark
plug in the socket wrench (Fig. 37) and bring
the tube down over the plug. Hold the plug down
in the tube and insert the assembly into the cylinder
head."

I know this and have always loaded the spark plug into the socket, holding the socket vertically and then shoving (gently) the
plug upwards into the tube, rotating the plug wrench to bring the spark plug threads fully through the tube.

So there should NOT have been a problem re-installing the plugs back into the head. *HOWEVER*, in my case, the No. 8 plug
(passenger side head, right at the firewall end of the head), I have a conflict with the transmission dip stick tube making it
awkward to insert the assembly through the valve cover.

When I was re-installing the spark plugs yesterday (after yet another attempt at sealing the valve cover gasket), I checked the
gap on the plugs as I reinstalled the assemblies. No. 2 = fine, No. 4 = fine, No. 6 = fine, No. 8 = WHAT THE HECK?? No gap (or
very very little). No gap = no spark = miss.

In retrospect, I must have dropped the No. 8 assembly through the valve cover in a manner that caused the spark plug electrode
to bump into the hard metal of the head, causing the previously set gap to disappear.

So the solution was easy: Re-gap the spark plug and re-install in the tube, very carefully.

Result was the next time (a few minutes later) that I started the engine, the "mystery" miss was miraculously gone.

Goes to show you (me) how little things are important.


]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80774 This photo shows a couple of things that I had NOT noticed before but now that I have, I need
to rectify the problem before I put the valve cover back on (this time with a new gasket):

]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80776 http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80775
Thanks.]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80759 Not the first time. I thought maybe this one, still in its NORS box, would make pumpy sucky noises right of said box.

BUT NO. :wince:

Lever arm doesn't what to budge.

Suggestions? Bigger hammer?

This:]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=65655
Removing the valve cover finally allowed me to see whether there was any build up of sludge in the head. There was none. Yippee!!

Renewing the valve covers involved:

1. Stripping the paint off with spray aircraft (sticky) paint stripper, a scraper and steel wool. Wear thick rubber gloves!! (Along the way, I could see at least four layers of paint, the most recent red, a silver, a black and the original red)

2. Using a drill chucked with an abrasive plastic "wire" wheel to remove tough bits.

3. Wet sanding with 200 and 400 grit wet/dry sand paper with solvent as the wetting agent.

4. Getting all the residual paint, cork gasket and hardened oil bit out of every nook and cranny with whatever it takes.

5. Repeating steps 2, 3 and 4 until there is nothing left but clean metal

6. Wiping everything with solvent and drying.

7. Spraying the covers. For the valve cover I used VHT red caliper paint (exact match, by chance, to the official Mopar red paint). For the wire covers, I used Tremclad (Rustoleum in US) semi-gloss black.

Today will involve re-installing that valve cover with a new cork gasket, new hardware (stainless), new Autolite R45S spark plugs (no gasket) and new top of tube rubber gaskets.

Then I will repeat the renewal process on the left valve cover and the power brake vacuum can.

]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80742
I want to install some spark plugs in my 1954 New Yorker, and when I consulted my 1954 shop manual (copy from a library), I discovered that someone has torn out the specifications page for the spark plugs! The shop manual indicates that "longer reach" resistor plugs are used, unlike previous years, and shows a photo, but no numbers. Can someone help me with OEM numbers? Thanks, Rex P.s. If anyone has a copy of pp. 163-4 that they could post with that information. I would love to insert it in my manual for future reference!]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80678 Some weeks ago, my 56 Dodge D500 engine developed a backfire. Initially, I thought it was No. 8 intake lifter issue finally biting me in the @ss *BUT*
after replacing that lifter, the backfire didn't go away.

So I pulled the spark plug wires one at a time, eventually determining that the issue was on No. 3. Removing the odd (left) bank valve cover is not simple
on a 56 Dodge D500 with PS and PB so I didn't jump on it right away.

BUT after a day of whining (to myself), I got busy and removed the left side valve cover. With it off, I could look for an issue with No. 3. It only took a couple
of seconds to see that there was an issue with the No. 3 exhaust push rod. The cone top was broken and it appeared that the push rod was jamming the
rocker arm. NOT GOOD.

I was able to remove the push rod and discover that most of the cone was gone. Therefore I need a new push rod.

See photos from the previous GOTCHA thread:





This is what good 56 D500 intake and exhaust pushrods look like:



Naturally, my first play is to find the OE PNs and look for NOS push rods, either on eBay or one of my "local" west coast sources.
The intake 56 D500 push rod PN is 1730 565 and the exhaust is 1730 567.

No luck locally. Tried eBay. No luck on the intake push rod but there was one auction (Buy it Now) for the exhaust 1730 567.
One potential problem is that the one on eBay is NORS (new old replacement stock) so not necessarily OE specs. It shows as being
10.75" long. The one that I had removed (to measure) from No.8 the previous week measured about 10 3/8".

Caught between a rock and a hard place, I did a Buy it Now on one of the NORS push rods, fingers crossed it wasn't going to be too long.

Not being one to only have one option, a phoned a local guy who has 55/56 Chrysler 300s and asked whether he might have a D500 push
rod (or too). After some rummaging through a drawer with old pushrods, the answer was, "Sorry, No", *BUT* you know what, Cummings inline
6 cylinder diesels use cup and ball pushrods. Let me bring one in for you, maybe it will work".

That was Good Thursday so no action until Good Saturday. What he brought in on Saturday was a Melling MPR 448. It is a beautiful piece but it is 3/8" diameter
and it has a stated length of 11.41". The diameter is not an issue (the OE push rods are 5/16" diameter) but the length is a problem.

But it opened my eyes to Melling (other than I already had purchased a couple of Melling JB-812 hydraulic lifters). So I started to search around
for shorter Melling cup and ball push rods.

Eventually I found a Melling 500074 at Rock Auto. Cup and ball, nominal diameter of 0.344". I phoned around town here looking for 500074s but
struck out. So back to Rock Auto.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10211684&cc=1337655&pt=5648&jsn=700

Looked promising. Rock Auto said they had 4 so I placed an order on Saturday. By Monday, Rock Auto phoned and said, ""Er, sorry, but our computer inventory
was wrong. We don't have any. Please go to our website to request a cancellation and refund".

Hmm....Not having much luck here folks. :(

So I phoned Melling and found out that their 500074 push rods were discontinued in June 2025. More "Hmm...."

In the meantime, I started modifying the Melling 448 that I had, shortening it in case that was going to be my only
option. (Would be easy with a metal lathe - not so much with a Dremel and bench grinder).

I carried on but modifying the 448 was not going was well as I hoped. It would work but my skills are not up to my expectations. :(

So I tried searching for the Melling 500074s again. This time I got a solid hit at Summit. The had 7 in their Nevada warehouse
and 5 in Texas. After talking to their rep, I ordered the 7. Hope they work.

In the meantime, Powerflite (Nathan N.) suggested yesterday, "Why don't you just buy a set from Hot (hemi) Heads?" which I can't
disagree with. Their price was good for all 16.

So I phoned Hot Heads this AM and discovered that a) they have no stock, b) they would be weeks out and c) they get them made by SmithBrothers Pushrods
in Oregon.

At that minute, I had to go to my Healthy Heart group walk (and post-walk coffee) but when I returned I phone SmithBros. Their rep told me that they don't keep
any stock and everything is custom. They offer a wide variety of diameters and tip styles and would be about a week to fill an order at about US$15
a push rod (for what I was talking about).

He pointed me to their order form:

https://ecbc4acb-256f-4ce3-92d5-e88c66c3db90.filesusr.com/ugd/eb4663_d7162da7fe5b45a28ef598a8512c92df.pdf

So at this point, I'm not sure what I am going to do. Install the 10.75" NORS push rod or wait for the 500074s to come it OR keep modifying the 448.

I might try installing the NORS push rod (if I can get the clearance - at this point I can't - the engine needs to rotated a bit to get the lifter OFF the cam
lobe. If I get it installed and adjusted, I will try starting the engine without the Generator/PS pump attached and the belts off the water pump, etc. JUST
to see (hear) that the back fire is gone (fingers crossed).

Some photos from the past few days:



]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80723 Sorry but I need to do this to consolidate in my own mind what transpired over the past 5 or 6 weeks when I discovered that I had a backfire issue that seemingly
came out of the blue.

1. The first thing that I did was assume that the issue was the No. 8 intake lifter that had confused me when adjusting the solid lifters in my 56 D500 engine nine
years ago.

2. That required removal of the intake manifold and valley cover as well as the passenger side spark plugs and valve cover.

3. That done, I discovered that the No. 8 intake lifter was indeed a hydraulic lifter and it had lost its center piston retaining clip.
Having no spares, I had to seek out a new lifter.

4. Based on a previous post by Steve B. in Australia, it was determined that the broken lifter could be replaced with a Melling JB-812 or Mopar
2808 569. I sourced both alternatives.

This is how they stacked up against what I though the other 15 lifters were, i.e. OE 56 D500 solid lifters:



Based on that comparison and the closeness of the "As Found" (from the No. 4 intake) and the JB-812, I chose to replace the No. 8 intake lifter with
a JB-812. Note the No. 4 intake lifter was NOT a solid lifter but it was stuck (in the UP position - making it effectively a solid lifter)

5. Before I buttoned the engine back up, I removed the No. 2, No. 4 and No. 6 intake lifters and discovered that they were all stuck hydraulic lifters. I cleaned each of
them and filled them with oil and pumped them up (in an oil bath) before installing them back in the engine and adjusting them to hydraulic standards, i.e. zero lash
plus 1/4" turn on the adjusting screw.

6. Buttoned the engine back up and started it back up. *POP*. No change. Back fire was still there. Can't say I wasted my time with No. 8 intake but it was NOT
the source of the backfire problem.

7. This time I got smart and checked which cylinder was causing the backfire by pulling the spark plug leads at the valve cover for the 2,4,6, and 8 cylinders and the
distributor cap for 1, 3 , 5 and 7. The problem was determined to be No. 3 (wasn't sure if it was intake or exhaust but it was definitely No. 3).

8. After a period of whinging, I removed the generator/PS pump combo, battery and wire covers so I could remove the odd (left/driver's side) valve cover.

9. That exposed the actual problem: A broken exhaust push rod on No. 3.



10. Now the challenge was to find a replacement push rod. And that was a real challenge.

i) I found a NOS 56 D500 push rod but after it was delivered I found out that it was too tall to be compatible with JB-812 hydraulic lifter.

ii) I was pointed to a Melling MPR-448 push rod that normally lives in a Dodge Cummings diesel 6 cyl engine. Skookum but too long (but could be cut down)

iii) Next try was a Melling 500074 which was a bit shorter than the MPR - 448 but would still have to be modified (shortened) a bit.

iv) Eventually I got smart and spoke to a Melling tech rep ("Brian") who pointed me to part of their website that can be used to determine the best
push rod for your situation. I played with that a bit and it seemed to come back with either and MPR-211 or MPR-212. These also showed up in a table in the
Melling website:



11: Because of the rocker arm adjusting screw on the 56 D500 engines, either the MPR-211 or -212 might have worked. Moot point because I could only
find the MPR-211s on the web (none locally). Bought 4 from AutoZone who provided excellent service and surprisingly fast shipping.

12: After getting them, I tried I tried a 211 in No. 1 and it was fine. However, when I rotated No. 3 to TDC and tried a 211 there, it would not go. Too tall.
Obviously an issue with the No. 3 exhaust lifter.

13. That meant that the intake manifold and valley cover had to come off (again). I pulled the No. 3 exhaust lifter out to find that a) it was a hydraulic lifter, b) it too
was missing its piston retaining clip and c) it was failed UP UP UP (the internal piston was well above the top of the lifter and would not go down)



Replaced that lifter with another Melling JB-812 and a MPR-211 push rod.

At that point I had finally realized that ALL of my D500 "Solid" lifters were, in reality, hydraulic lifters that were likely just stuck. Not having more JB-812s and being
reluctant to throw a mix of 2808 569s in there, I decided to remove, clean, oil, pump up and return all of the 14 non-JB-812 lifters (7 on each side by now).

14. In going through the non-812 lifters, I found a strange situation with No. 7 intake was way too loose. I didn't figure it out for a bit but eventually, I did.
The No. 7 lifter piston was stuck down and no amount of cajoling or tapping would pop the piston out. Since it still had its wire piston retaining clip and I was
out of Melling 812s, I decided to steal the clip from No. 7 intake lifter and use it on what I thought was the original problem (which it wasn't) No. 8 intake
lifter. No.8 intake lifter is now No. 7 intake lifter.

15. After going through each cylinder's lifters and cleaning, soaking them (in 10W30) and pumping them up, they got reinstalled with their original push rods (with
the exception of No. 1 and No. 3 exhaust that got Melling 211s), they all got adjusted like real hydraulic lifters, i.e. zero lash plus 1/4 turn on the adjusting screw.

16. After re-installing the valve covers and the valley pan, the intake and the carb, etc. the engine fired up just fine. NO BACK FIRES. YAY!!

After all that, I contacted Hot Hemi Heads and ordered a set of D500 solid lifters (Melling 2084s) and D500 push rods (different lengths than these ones).

Some day I might install them - but not right now, I just want to drive my car.

REFERENCES:

Any "Gotchas" when removing a solid lifter from an exposed lifter gallery?

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=78242&posts=16&highlight=GOTCHA&highlightmode=1#M643373

Adjusting 56 D500 solid lifter valves and discovering a GOTCHA

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80645&posts=37#M643372

Searching for alternatives to OE 56 Dodge D500 intake and exhaust push rods

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80678&posts=13&highlight=%3Cspan%20class=%27highlight%27%3EGOTCHA%3C/span%3E&highlightmode=1#M643315

Hope that helps somebody (maybe even me)

Now I can put all the extra lifters and push-rods away in a safe place (never to be found again)

;)





]]> http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=80715 In lieu of the hemi (double-rocker) spark plug wire control clips discussed in this thread:

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=79129&posts=7&highlight=hemi%20wire%20control&highlightmode=1#M633415

I tried using youtube hints on creating wire separators with zip-ties. The results weren't terrible for a first try but those 1483 579 clips would probably
be better. ( IF I could find some.)

Even with three of the four wires in the zip-tie separator, I still had a bit of a problem installing the wire cover over the four wires (on one side). Eventually
I checked the thread size and count on the oval head screws that hold the wire cover to the hemi valve cover (at three points per side).

The threads are 1/4 x 20 NC. Hey I have a stick of 1/4 x 20 "ready-rod". So I cut three pieces about 1.25" long (angle grinder with ZIP disc) and installed them
into the three screw receivers factory welded to the valve cover as "Guide Studs".

Then I arranged the wires so they cleared the guide studs. Happy with that, I added the wire cover over the guide studs and pushed the cover down so I could
hear the contact with the metal spark plug rubber gasket retaining rings. While pushing down on the cover, I removed the center guide stud and replaced it with
one of the three oval head cover screws (with star washer) and tightened it down (mostly but no completely)

Then I did the rear location and finally the front location (because of the heater hose control clamp that is involved (on the passenger side).

Repeated the same on the drivers side of the engine.

Trivial but it might help some body.

Some photos:

]]>