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Posts: 86
| Hello all!
Can't tell you how THRILLED I am to join this forum!
Back story:
As a young 17 year old boy, fresh from Cali(East SF Bay Area), living in rural Rolla, MO area, who always LOVED classic cars, exotics, and muscle cars, the very first car I purchased was a 1958 Desoto Firedome 4 door. Unfortunately, my blind love for (IMHO) the most beautiful car to ever come out of Detroit, made my dreams outweigh my logic, and my reality. No money, barely any tools, and no facilities. She was VERY rusty. Although I DID manage to get the carb overhauled, and her to run, I never got the brakes other than parking brake working. Although I DID drive her a lil around a friend's huge driveway a few times. Last I saw my first auto love, she was languishing in a friend's parent's barn, with her windshield busted out after I got back from USAF basic training. Probably from his spoiled, endulged lil brothers. Have no idea what they decided to do with her (without my consent, permission, or any communication).
Anyone seen a blue 1958 Firedome 4 door, in Rolla, MO?
FFWD 25 years:
I am a very experienced mechanic, fabricator, and body man. I have a great shop, even if a lil small. Most recent major project is a '74 CJ5 Jeep, with an Isuzu 4FB1 diesel/Jeep T5/D300 conversion. I own the #1 Google result for this engine code. She gets 40+ MPG, and goes ANYWHERE, even in 2WD. After a turbo is back on the motor as it was designed to have, I will be tearing her down again, and refining her to better than factory new standards, for shows and mag features.
Anyways, my GF and I are the proud owners of a 1958 Desoto Fireflite 4 door! Fairly complete, but fair amount of bondo in the expected places. Paid a lil' more than I probably should have, but that's OK. I beat the PO up a lil on price. Supposedly @ 46,xxx original miles. Floorboards fairly solid. Needs a rear bumper, a few taillight lenses, and the "tree" or "tower" holding the left taillights inside of the fin.
Plan is, to get her safely drive-able, reliable. Smooth out existing bodywork, kill any rust showing, but not "dig" at the bondo there. Just smooth it out, and a repaint. Drive her as a shop vehicle, and to shows, as promotion for the biz(custom builds, custom body work, engine conversions/power upgrades, and other design, engineering, and fabrication projects).
Please don't kill me for saying this, but the drivetrain/chassis will be up for sale in a few years, as she is destined to be an extreme, high dollar custom build. Similar to the '59 Imperial Speedster. Which was MY dream 25+ years ago with my Firedome. Although I will be accused of copying that builder's idea, I'm sure, 'cause he beat me to the punch. It's kewl, though. Mine will be MUCH prettier, much more proportionate, AND on a 1st Gen Viper chassis.
Rest assured, this Fireflight is nothing special, other than a 'fair' 1958 Desoto 4 door. Which makes her VERY special to me.
Thanks everyone. Beyond THRILLED to be here as an owner.
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
  
Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | Nice looking Fireflite Chris..
Welcome to the FL Family..
I have deleted the other duplicate thread for you in other section..
Clive
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 836
Location: Layton, Utah | Awesome looking car. Glad to see another person with smarts and class ! DeSoto lives !!! |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Welcome to the forum!
Consider that ALL DeSoto's are VERY special and they become RARER as I write.
That said, it's your car and your choise.
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Location: Vacaville,Ca or Harbor springs,Mi | Nice ride looks good! |
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Location: Parts Unknown | First of all, it's your car, do as you please .....
But I do question the duplicity of saying how much you love the 58 DeSoto and
then following in with gutting it out into a custom, saving only some body features.
Obviously, I share your appreciation for the 58 DeSoto. But if you got one, why
make something else out of it ?
None of these cars really justify the money spent to restore them, other than the
pleasure factor in doing so and ownership. At least you can get SOME return on
the money spent. Try that with beer of golf ....
That said, it would be interesting to see sketches, design, plans for your custom. |
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Location: The Mile High City | Welcome, Chris!
It is great to see another '58 De Soto owner and car on the forums and I liked reading the story. Your sedan looks fantastic and it is all yours. I too would be interested in seeing sketches or plans for the car! |
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Expert
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Location: little rock, AR | Muratic acid will clean that tank but if its that bad new re-pops are available. But you probably have your own way of cleaning tanks. Glad to hear your going to get it up and running as it is. I just put a '59 Dodge back on the road after it sat for 30 years. 41k actual mile car up and running |
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Regular
Posts: 86
| Thanks Oldwood! Muratic acid is an excellent suggestion. I have used it before to burn away rust.
I'm keeping my fingers AND toes crossed it's a fairly straightforward "fix".
There is also a coating sold to re-seal motorcycle tanks.
I DO know at this time I am hoping to avoid a $350+ fuel tank purchase.
That is awesome! CONGRATS on getting her running!
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-17 10:39 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7806
Location: Williams California | Welcome to the board, Chris!
As Ricky Nelson once sang, "You can't please everyone, so you've got to please yourself"
Looking forward to the future as your build progresses!
---John |
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Expert
Posts: 1476
Location: Pacific Northwest | Welcome to the forum. Keep us posted on your project. |
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Posts: 2905
Location: little rock, AR | Use 1 gal Muriatic Acid and keep your nose out of the tank or you'll wake up tomorrow wondering WTF happened. Schlosh(sp) it all around and around and around then drain acid. Then take to car wash and clean it well. Drain water and dry it as quickly as possible before it flash rust. Then pour in 1/4 gal of WD-40 to prevent rusting and this is what you'll have!!! That's WD-40 that you see in the tank.
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Regular
Posts: 86
| That's funny big M. After hearing all the warm wishes, "Garden Party" was in my head more than a few times the past few days.
No couches. haha. I will be working this car as often as I can, among being busy with paint jobs, custom work, and ect.
It seems the purists MAY be right after all. Only time will tell. I may be looking for a much more rotted car to breath a new, faster, life into for the Mopar Exotic build.
Definitely has thick quarter, rocker, lower fender, and eyebrow bondo. Will know more when carpet comes out, and how well it runs when she does. But, I crawled under the car, and pulled up the sides of the nasty, wildly deteriorating, original carpeting today. Who makes those sill plates, again? A good source for '58 fireflite 4 door original loop(?) carpet?
This car is MUCH more solid than I first thought. I saw ORIGINAL YELLOW PAINT on the floors, even in the low areas. Mind you there is a moist layer of rust under the paint. HOWEVER, I bet my floorboards are very solid. Zero give when i bumped and pushed on them. I will know more when the power seat comes out for new carpet. I will share and document, I promise. Just don't cry if I scrub and kill the rust, and happen to thickly hose it with black paint just under the carpet. But even if it IS a much more solid car than I originally thought, if I can't find a very rotted car, but complete with good glass, knobs, lenses, and chrome bits in a few years time, this is the one that goes under the knife. So it's really up to all the grouchy purists who have been squirreling away all things FL for the last 20+ years, whether or not Desoto gets the ax.
That is called "Delegation of Responsibility".
Documented all linkage and connections on the Carter, and removed it. I saved everything that came out, bagged and labeled, and hi res pics. Uncertain what to do with the heat bypass lever coming up from the intake. I didn't fool with the 2 small bolts in it as of yet. Hoping I can make a small block off plate, removing and documenting any innards, safely?
The carb may very well never have been off the motor before, seriously, the way the gasket appeared. Seems to me perhaps the secondary floats and/or needles were stuck open, or it was leaking from the main body top gasket in the rear. The rear holes in the intake looked like someone has been slowly pouring varnish into them for a good long while. Hopefully the rear valve guides are OK, and no bent rods from hydraulic-ing. Will be pulling the plugs soon too. Just so busy, precious little time for Desoto at the moment. And I MUST drive her. Hoping before the weekend, at least before freezing temps.
Brake lights not working, so have to look into that yet as well. Just won't push my safety limit too far. Still have brake inspection to do. PO mentioned a noise like air brakes functioning on release of desoto brake pedal, which makes me think vacuum leak. But I defer to FL experts. Never recall seeing 2 vacuum reservoirs before(although I'm sure Firedome had them, wheel well res may be leaking?), or 2 heater cores(pass side bypassed completely in mine by one of the PO's)? Is that what I see with those necks in the firewall, and the hose routing in perfect examples?
Will be using 3/8 copper line for the fuel line from pump to carb. Something has to be shiny in there, for the love. Egad.
It is supposedly a 43(or 46?),xxx mile car. The windshield bag is even still there.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-18 9:29 PM
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Regular
Posts: 86
| Wow old, that looks amazing. And at >$4 a gal at Menard's, that seems the way. I have heard Baking soda is good for neutralizing the PH after the acid is poured out, if welding.
I am thinking a 2 part epoxy for any holes. Seemed to work great in my aluminum radiator, under pressure. and I believe fully cured, gas impervious.
Just don't wish to weld on a gas tank that had sulfuric acid(or is it phosphoric in Muratic?) in it. How did you handle any holes, if any? Mine is leaking somewhere forward, I believe from the seam.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-18 9:32 PM
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Location: Parts Unknown | Muriatic is a mixed-down Nitric acid.
Any radiator shop can boil out your tank and hand it back, ready for welding
without danger of explosion. How about the slosh-around liner material ?
Never used it, but have heard lots of people talk about it as a good answer.
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Expert
Posts: 2788
Location: USA - KY | 
Welcome, DieselJeep!
Congratulations on obtaining your '58 Desoto after twenty-five years of wishing! I know the feeling. And not that it matters what I think, but your plans for this car seem very interesting, and well thought out.
There are many ways for folks to go about enjoying this old car hobby of ours and in view of this, I for one can also appreciate a more artistic/creative approach, such as yours. I know that there is room for owners such as yourself within this old car hobby, just as there is room for owners such as 1960Fury; both approaches being passionate and valid in their own way.
I know that there are folks out there who might also question my approach to the old car hobby, and who think I'm a tad nutty for restoring my old DeSoto to as close as I could to "original/concours" level, a process that is usually reserved for cars such as the 300's and the Adventurers. But for many of us, the process itself is a reflection of just how much we love cars...old cars...our cars. I feel that any old car that has survived fifty or sixty years deserves preservation, no matter what the owner's vision. BTW...I have to admit that if my car had not been in such good shape when I found it in 2011, I might have gone a similar route as you have planned for your car. Shhhhh...don't tell anyone. 
Anyway, glad you're here, along with all of us other crazy car nuts...there's lots of good info here from folks who really know their stuff, and I couldn't have made the progress that I did without their help and info...such as where to obtain carpet and repro door sills.
Happy DeSotoing!
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Expert
Posts: 2905
Location: little rock, AR | I don't like the gas tank sealer. I had my '60 Ply. tank boiled and sealed at a radiator shop and the stuff started to come loose. JMO |
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Location: Williams California | DieselJeep - 2016-10-18 6:19 PM
Wow old, that looks amazing. And at >$4 a gal at Menard's, that seems the way. I have heard Baking soda is good for neutralizing the PH after the acid is poured out, if welding.
I am thinking a 2 part epoxy for any holes. Seemed to work great in my aluminum radiator, under pressure. and I believe fully cured, gas impervious.
Just don't wish to weld on a gas tank that had sulfuric acid(or is it phosphoric in Muratic?) in it. How did you handle any holes, if any? Mine is leaking somewhere forward, I believe from the seam.
I use baking soda to neutralize anything I've used acid on, whether it's muriatic, or flux from doing body work [with lead]
There is also a large O-ring where the filler tube enters the tank, these can be a leakage point also. I'm with Dorsey on not using fuel tank liners, gasoline is constantly being reformulated, and tomorrow's additives may dissolve the linings. It's happened in prior years.
---John |
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Regular
Posts: 86
| Yesterday, pulled valve covers, and squirted oil on rockers, lifters, stems, ect. before any cranking.
All factory Carter linkages and parts carefully removed, bagged, documented, for easy stock Carter carb and all factory bits re-install.
Fuel pump issue, no fuel to carb after 5 x 10 seconds or so, patient cranking rounds with cool time between. MAN was it hard to walk away for the night when that close.
So this morn, mounted a temp electric pump to be able to move car into shop this morning. When I say temp, I mean it, in that I didn't drill any holes, ect.
She literally started on the first crank when fuel bowls full. ZERO SMOKE, even first fire. ZERO odd clunks or bangs or clatter from the motor.. All gauges working. Exhaust "Smells good", ie', not oily, or excessively rich. With no adjustment to Holley. Yet.
Wanted to post a video of her purring(if not idling a lil high). Uncertain how.
This is a definitely a 47,000 mile survivor. Just traced all the way back to 1st owner, with paperwork in glovebox(still fuzzy inside). About 200 miles last 20 years.
I can't cut this car up.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-20 2:52 PM
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Location: The Mile High City | Sweet! I know you can post a link to a youtube video by selecting the "rich text editor" button and typing
straight bracket symbol ([) + youtubemovie]copyandpastethelink[/youtubemovie] the front bracket symbol should be right next to the y in youtubemovie, but if I type it in like it should be - it thinks there is a movie to attach and won't show you the details.
when you copy and paste the link, it often includes https://... and you have to remove the "s" so it reads http://
for some reason, those links with the s don't work - those without do!
Awesome to hear you have it running so soon!
Edited by Lancer Mike 2016-10-20 6:21 PM
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Expert
Posts: 3480
Location: Montreal, Canada | DieselJeep - 2016-10-20 2:46 PM
Yesterday, pulled valve covers, and squirted oil on rockers, lifters, stems, ect. before any cranking.
All factory Carter linkages and parts carefully removed, bagged, documented, for easy stock Carter carb and all factory bits re-install.
Fuel pump issue, no fuel to carb after 5 x 10 seconds or so, patient cranking rounds with cool time between. MAN was it hard to walk away for the night when that close.
So this morn, mounted a temp electric pump to be able to move car into shop this morning. When I say temp, I mean it, in that I didn't drill any holes, ect.
She literally started on the first crank when fuel bowls full. ZERO SMOKE, even first fire. ZERO odd clunks or bangs or clatter from the motor.. All gauges working. Exhaust "Smells good", ie', not oily, or excessively rich. With no adjustment to Holley. Yet.
Wanted to post a video of her purring(if not idling a lil high). Uncertain how.
This is a definitely a 47,000 mile survivor. Just traced all the way back to 1st owner, with paperwork in glovebox(still fuzzy inside). About 200 miles last 20 years.
I can't cut this car up.
Way cool! Good work there, and certainly a good car. Amazing to see an old gal like that that survived this long! Great looking car! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 531
Location: Park Hills, KY | Do your thing with it. Or buy Gregcon's 57 listed for sale in classifieds. Make yourself happy! |
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Regular
Posts: 86
| So I have been a busy bee. Totally gutted my carpets and floors. I used a awl and a ptty knife to DIG HARD at any rust and loose sounds deadening meterial. No power tool operation YET, as I have to get my front power seat out, and remove or protect my dash and door panels. I got my driver's floor access panel off almost zero fuss. EVERY fastener I have removed has come right out as designed. Look at how solid and rust free that frame rail is!!!
All metal will be sprayed with etching primer, holes and cancer cut out, and new metal welded in. I need some help with the seat joints towards the rear, in that I need a pic of a cherry floor of an applicable vehicle, and perhaps a diagram of how the 3 panels "stack" together when welded. I want this metal fabricated EXACTLY it left factory. If not protected better from water. 
This car is so crazy solid, especially for a rust belt car. Most of this floor damage probably happened in the last 2 or so years, as it wasn't garaged.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 537
Location: Upstate NY | Really solid for rust belt!!! I had a piece of plywood under my front seat to keep it from falling through. It looks like you are planning to do it right. Keep sending the pics. |
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Regular
Posts: 86
| Thanks all for sharing your pics of your restorations. I appreciate the help.
The last one is of some help, but as insanely nice as my floor is, I want to restore all and every panel to as close as possible to factory steel, and overhauling every stamping. No need to fabricate complete pieces so far that I can tell. I am separating every stamping I need to. I want to fab every bend in factory stampings, so these parts will be restored to as near perfect original as I can.
I need the most help with the 3 panels that join at the outer back joint of the power seat mount channel, as this is the most complex area. Have been looking for some unmolested rust free factory stamping pics.
Also, is the stock floor panel thickness 14 gauge sheet?
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-22 11:20 AM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7806
Location: Williams California | The floor stampings are 18 gauge, but the power seat troughs are more like 14. rust in this area was rather common, as there is a bit of an overlap on these panels, and water would seep between them.
---John |
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Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | oldwood - 2016-10-18 8:39 PM
Use 1 gal Muriatic Acid and keep your nose out of the tank or you'll wake up tomorrow wondering WTF happened. Schlosh(sp) it all around and around and around then drain acid. Then take to car wash and clean it well. Drain water and dry it as quickly as possible before it flash rust. Then pour in 1/4 gal of WD-40 to prevent rusting and this is what you'll have!!! That's WD-40 that you see in the tank.
if one would wash it done after with a few gallon of baking soda/water , it'll stop the acid reaction in a heart beat and
the soda will help stop flash rust . might use it in a cheap pump up garden sprayer as an applicator ------------------------------------------later |
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| SOO
FINALLY drove the Desoto!
HUUUUGE THANK YOU to PowerFlight aka Nathan!!! The parts you sent, and a little more adjustment did the trick!!
Put @ 5 Miles on her this afternoon... |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9654
Location: So. Cal | Congratulations! I'm glad those parts went to good use so you can enjoy your car now. |
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Posts: 86
| Thank you so much Nathan! Owe ya a beer(craft, I prefer Arrogant bas tard Ale, if ya man enough Yo Ho Ho!)
And to chronicle all the steps of this build:
turns out I have a HUGE, Huge, HUUUUGE vintage MOPAR parts dealer fairly near to me. Had 6 or so retired commercial sized (@40x200 ft) chicken coups or stables, FULL to the brim of MOPAR cars on his property. And he has 3 properties of inventory. I am talking 50's, 60's, 70's, and 80's cars. Wagons, 300's, Desotos(saw 57-60 Sotos in ONE building), Diplomats, ANY model, ANY year. ANYTHING you might love, he probably has. ForwardLook and fins peeking out everywhere you look. Most of which were all restore-able. I could have spent an entire week poking around ONE building. WOW. Not often I am in AWE, but I sure was, completely. Will buy the rotted but complete 4 door '57-'58 Desoto for the MOPAR Exotic build from him, when the time comes. Likes stock and original, but respects other's vision, and appreciates shared passion, even if different. GREAT guy.
Dropped a fair sum to purchase everything we needed to replace anything broken, missing, or otherwise damaged, in one shot:
turn signal arm
both left fender trim spears(dented and wrinkled from a truck door, my guess)
right rear door lower spear(another door ding)
NICE straight '58 bumper, to replace ours having a crinkle from a rear ending(probably from those rear drums acting up in the city)
Left "tree" or "tower" chrome piece that houses taillights(cracked and damaged in rear ending)
Left fin chrome surround trim(cracked and damaged in rear ending)
VERY NICE lower tail lens to replace our broken one(rear ending). Looks as new. Will make our others look shoddy in comparison haha
2 bumper extensions on outside of rear bumper(not the trim on qtr, but on bumper itself)
2 straight '57 exhaust cutouts, because they are "swoop"er than the '58's
AND: A 1968 Newport "C" body 8.75 rear axle, with VERY low miles, almost zero slop to be found anywhere. Compared and measured side by side with a '58 Desoto Fireflite axle. Spring perches exact same width, same universal joint saddles, same pinion angle. Axle bump pad even appears to be in same place. SO take note, the 65-67 rear axle consensus is wrong. At LEAST 65-68, if not 69(from what I hear).
The ONLY difference dimensionally, the Newport axle a whopping 1 inch(.5 per side) wider. Brake hose, and spring bushings, 2-3 hours work; no more BS with temperamental, time ravenously DEVOURING, online only service parts, factory rear drum brakes and tapered axles. And will track perfectly straight, as factory. Scrub, paint, and new slaves, new oil, new 11x2.5 shoes(on a shelf at ANY corner parts store), and run for 20+ years, condition. Drums even have little wear.
Did I mention I am building a safe, serviceable, DRIVER?
Now, to meet that vintage MOPAR V8 collector/builder guru... 
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-11-10 9:24 PM
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Location: The Mile High City | Awesome, Chris! Good work.
Hey, if you ever go back to that fella and he happens to have a decent set of front bumper guards (should be '58 only - the '57s are different) - please buy 'em for me!
Cheers,
Mike
Edited by Lancer Mike 2016-11-10 3:39 PM
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| Thanks Mike! It's amazing what one can do, and how many people are willing to help, if ya an honest, helpful, hardworking soul!
Which made me realize:
I've only owned my Desoto less than two months, and have almost every single piece of broken or missing chrome replaced!
I think I have 2 or 3 pieces left!! Seems as though a few GOOD people must like me, or something.
Firedome/Fireflight? If so, I saw at least 4 '57 and '58 front bumpers while I was there, in one building, and 2 laying split into individual parts . Maybe more. I was so overwhelmed with the MOPAR treasure laying everywhere I looked, it was hard to soak it all in.
The 1957 has a simple "oval" top bumper, and not the 58 year extra "rectangular" bit(the part you seek?) in the center. Or are you speaking of the lower guards on what model was that? haha
You have been very helpful and encouraging, so PM me, I can probably ya help out, if ya not in too much of a hurry. I have to go back to sell the parts I don't want, and poke around some more. I will keep ya in the know about when.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-11-10 9:26 PM
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Location: Parts Unknown | The guards are the lower mounted "tits". The center "smiley" is just standard
58 fare, cut into the center of a standard fare 57 oval. The guards fit all models
and were optional on all but Fireflite.
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Posts: 86
| So, despite the warm friendly welcome to the ForwardLook community:
I have been christened "worthy" to be a guardian Sphinx. Of a MASSIVE mopar treasure hoard, by the REAL mopar gods. After only 2 months. Probably any mopar chrome, part, or car you could dream, or have read about. I am honored, blessed, and humbled. And, haven't made it to the engine collector yet. Those who have shown me kindness, encouragement, been very helpful: You know who you are.
I *MAY*  very well know *exactly* where your unobtanium bit is, if you need my help. Strict rules and conditions apply. Those who have been rude, mean, disrespectful, abrasive, ect. simply because I frequently sail uncharted waters, you know who YOU are.
Work on that honesty with self, and then others, thing. Groups "In the majority" that all think the same, have NO RIGHT to decide "what is right"; or pretend to give consent, for ANY individual. ESPECIALLY if they think differently than you. That KILLS creativity and solutions. Erases everyone's freedom. Keeps us "Divided and Conquered". And is UNAMERICAN at the very CORE.
Apologize, and maybe. *off soapbox*
Even though it has to come back off for bodywork, I couldn't help but scrub polish, and mount a few goodies. Very decently shiny bumper extensions won't fit with "factory original" drum brake induced rear end damage. Yes, I did shine that infection yellow. Couldn't help myself.
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9654
Location: So. Cal | Make sure you resell your old bumper because bumpers can be easily straitened. |
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Expert
Posts: 3480
Location: Montreal, Canada | Hey, that shine came out pretty good! Man, those 57-58 Desotos have a nice rear end! |
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Regular
Posts: 86
| More work completed:
Had a "no start" condition after she would get up to full operating temps. Deduced a "heat soak" was interferring with the starter relay. Removed starter relay, and took it apart. Cleaned contact dust, rust. Lightly sanded contacts with 500 grit, "squared up" the contact points, bent "lever retainer" slightly closer to overcome normal wear. Cleaned all tarry goop from all connections. Problem solved!!
I also removed the instrument cluster, as there was a "krispity" wire between the ign switch and the ballast resistor. Had previously become so hot, much of the insulation was toasted off, and it was melted to the electrical tape, and other wires in the loom! Even replaced with an exact gauge, and shade of blue wire.
Removed hideous black plastic aftermarket turn switch. Tore column apart, installed factory turn switch, and arm. Reconnected factory turn signal wires, after I can only guess how many decades. Giving a PO some due credit, I couldn't imagine trying to find a '58 Desoto turn switch back in the early 80's(or whatev) before the interwebz. Choosing between a hideous switch and not driving the car would be a rough choice.
But now, I am her caretaker!! ALL electronic functions, brake light, turn indicators, parking lights, turn lights, ALL working EXACTLY as factory once again! Have no idea how long Desoto has endured with hackneyed wiring and compromised electronic functions!!!!!
Now, still trying to figure how to remove 20-30 year old electrical tape adhesive, baked onto the steering column paint.
Installed repalcement brake/turn lens. Fin dented badly enough replacement "tower" and fin "surround" won't bolt on.
This winter, Babycakes. This winter. I got you, no worries.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-11-15 10:46 AM
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back to factory.jpg (340KB - 190 downloads)
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Location: The Mile High City | Howdy, Chris!
It looks better and better with every picture! Nice work. I sent you a PM with my 58 De Soto "wish list" - any help is much appreciated.
Here is a picture of a car with the front bumper guards.
I think the cut of the 58 bumper guards is different from the cut of the 57s
Edited by Lancer Mike 2016-11-15 2:50 PM
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Regular
Posts: 86
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ign wire.jpg (347KB - 194 downloads)
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After 25+ years, another '58 Desoto!!
