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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Heating, Cooling and Air Conditioning | Message format |
matte |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 977 Location: Sydney, Australia | Hey Guys what are your thoughts and before asked, no I don't have a shroud. As you may know, Australia is quite hot in Summer and a lot of it is very humid. I'm guessing much like Florida. 86F - 110F with high humidity and dew level. Sweating by just thinking about it! I also deal with city traffic or close to.. When I get out onto the highway or have clean air the car temp sits on 190 and is happy. If I get caught in traffic or slow moving driving, it creeps up to around 225 and stays around there. With the summer sun and the heat from the engine bay, the car gets unbearable to sit inside. Block and rad have been flushed. It's a 58 Plymouth with a 1967 383 and a 1967 2 core 1.3" thick core rad with a wider water tank on top which going by the parts number is the correct rad for that engine. I've read that some of Chrysler setups in the 60's and 70's weren't great in cooling in hot climates. Also when it gets extra hot is when my trans starts drawing out the gear changes but only when extra hot. So I guess the trans fluid is getting heated and not cooled as well. Engine bay gets that hot you can't touch a thing. Does it sound like the radiator can't cope with the Australian summer and traffic? Are these size rads not fantastic? Complete 2 core dimensions 56 w x 17 H x 1.3 | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | I know nothing BUT.... Your core is quite thin at 1.3". I would think that something like 2" or 3", 3 core, is more what you need. I would also take the load off the radiator with an auxilliary trans cooler (assuming that your trans is oil-cooled) I would probably add electric fans to the front of the rad, on a relay and switch that you control. 56 w x 17 H x 1.3 Thick, seems very wide, not very high and very thin. (To me.) Edited by 56D500boy 2019-01-19 6:21 PM | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | You do need a fanshroud. A proper one. Also, at least a 7-blade fan along with a viscous drive fan if you haven't already to displace more air through the radiator. Along with that, ignition vacuum advance hooked up to intake manifold will put extra advance in the timing, making the engine run cooler. I would think your transmission fluid is starting to foam and get aerated and causing delayed shifts. Or, the transmission oil is thinning out so much, the internal oil pressure is lower than should be. I would also look into a 3 row radiator for added safety, but you could try the above things first. Edited by BigBlockMopar 2019-01-19 6:09 PM | ||
matte |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 977 Location: Sydney, Australia | 56D500boy - 2019-01-19 6:03 PM I know nothing BUT.... Your core is quite thin at 1.3". I would think that something like 2" or 3", 3 core, is more what you need. I would also take the load off the radiator with an auxilliary trans cooler (assuming that your trans is oil-cooled) I would probably add electric fans to the front of the rad, on a relay and switch that you control. 56 w x 17 H x 1.3 Thick, seems very wide, not very high and very thin. (To me.) ;) LOL Oops Mixed mm and inches together meant to be 56w X 45.5 X 1.3 Have an aux fan that I switch on but only either drops it down by 5 or keeps it at bay.. | ||
matte |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 977 Location: Sydney, Australia | BigBlockMopar - 2019-01-19 6:08 PM You do need a fanshroud. A proper one. Also, at least a 7-blade fan along with a viscous drive fan if you haven't already to displace more air through the radiator. Along with that, ignition vacuum advance hooked up to intake manifold will put extra advance in the timing, making the engine run cooler. I would think your transmission fluid is starting to foam and get aerated and causing delayed shifts. Or, the transmission oil is thinning out so much, the internal oil pressure is lower than should be. I would also look into a 3 row radiator for added safety, but you could try the above things first. I changed over to a 7 blade but didn't change the temp... I've tried both ports on the carby and timing but didn't help.. I hear you about a good shroud. The universal eBay ones look crappy. I want to get a shroud which will either have to be made up or I work out what car the radiator was from. When I type in 2898058 I only can find a couple of photos to show the rad. It's for a 68 Newport but when I do a search for that model, the rads are too wide or high so finding a shroud makes it harder.. I've added a photo I found of the correct numbered radiator that matches mine.. I would love to try the shroud first but sometimes shipping costs over to Aus can make trial and error expensive. Maybe I might just go the 3 core and hope for the best. Edited by matte 2019-01-19 9:00 PM (Newport.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Newport.jpg (66KB - 341 downloads) | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | You can always fab your own by using aluminium or sheetmetal plating and weld/pop-rivet something together that covers the radiator and have a hole the size of the fan slightly off center. | ||
Stroller |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 371 | Is this an A/C car? Needs a shroud and a clutch fan and have the radiator recored for a 3 row or a 4 row if can be done. But thing that is strange is chrysler used 2 row radiators in what seems just about every car/truck. I have 2 trucks both A/C both have same radiator as my ram charger non a/c, but all 3 are 26" wide what they call the heavy duty radiators. A good pressure holding cap also. | ||
Stroller |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 371 | Also looking at that radiator picture are the hose connections correct? I mean the inlet on the left and outlet on the right? I have seen re popped radiators and the spouts are on the worng sides and these just do not work well when put in. | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1739 Location: Alaska | One other thing you didn't mention is how far away is your fan from the radiator? If you don't have a shroud you need the fan blades closer to the rad, something like 3/4"-1" (inches not MM). | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Stroller - 2019-01-26 1:04 PM Also looking at that radiator picture are the hose connections correct? I mean the inlet on the left and outlet on the right? I have seen re popped radiators and the spouts are on the worng sides and these just do not work well when put in. Is somebody directionally challenged or is there another rad photo being referenced? I see the top connection on the right center and then bottom connection on the left. My 56 Dodge rad is much the same. See 56 Imperial info under the first photo. (56ImperialCoolingSystemPNDiagram.jpg) (56ImperialWithWaterPumpIdler.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56ImperialCoolingSystemPNDiagram.jpg (175KB - 326 downloads) 56ImperialWithWaterPumpIdler.jpg (158KB - 325 downloads) | ||
Stroller |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 371 | Sorry minor dislexia or brain clowd. Been searching for a 3 core for my '79, which hose connections are reversed. Wish I could see my fuel pump that clearly I got a great big old A/C compressor blocking it. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Stroller - 2019-01-27 12:29 PM Sorry minor dislexia or brain clowd. Been searching for a 3 core for my '79, which hose connections are reversed. Wish I could see my fuel pump that clearly I got a great big old A/C compressor blocking it. Like this? (00s0s_5R5ZGBOIOW4_1200x900.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 00s0s_5R5ZGBOIOW4_1200x900.jpg (151KB - 335 downloads) | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | whats the radiator cap LBS. and does it boil at top temps ------------------------------------------------later | ||
Stroller |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 371 | Exactly like that 56D. And wow what ever car you got that pic from is exactly the heater system I have. I would love to see a pic of the blower motor and heater fuel pump. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Stroller - 2019-02-03 10:40 AM Exactly like that 56D. And wow what ever car you got that pic from is exactly the heater system I have. I would love to see a pic of the blower motor and heater fuel pump. Not sure exactly where or how I found that first photo. Probably just Googled "56 Imperial for sale" and then looked through the listings that showed up. Just did that again and didn't find the same one but I did find another one, not as pretty and without factory A/C. Edited by 56D500boy 2019-02-03 1:53 PM (56ImperialWithGasHeater.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56ImperialWithGasHeater.jpg (147KB - 342 downloads) | ||
matte |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 977 Location: Sydney, Australia | 58coupe - 2019-01-26 9:07 PM One other thing you didn't mention is how far away is your fan from the radiator? If you don't have a shroud you need the fan blades closer to the rad, something like 3/4"-1" (inches not MM). Yeah the blades are about 3/4 of an inch.. | ||
matte |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 977 Location: Sydney, Australia | 60 dart - 2019-01-27 3:18 PM whats the radiator cap LBS. and does it boil at top temps ------------------------------------------------later I've got the 18 psi cap that was matched with rocket parts guide.. Think the old one was 16... It doesn't boil over but sits on the 220'ish in traffic.. | ||
matte |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 977 Location: Sydney, Australia | I found a picture of the shroud need. It doesn't look like it would create as much suction as the deep ones. Would this style really make a big difference? (s-l1600.jpg) (s-l1600-1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- s-l1600.jpg (74KB - 336 downloads) s-l1600-1.jpg (80KB - 321 downloads) | ||
Stroller |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 371 | I would say it would be better than nothing. I still say factories are fairly good at what they do or did. | ||
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