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Blocking exhaust passages to intake manifold Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Engine, Exhaust, Fuel and Ignition | Message format |
Chrome58 |
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Expert Posts: 1316 Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels | Hello everyone, I'd like to block the exhaust passages from the heads to the intake manifold on my '58 318 V8 (the warm-up system). I tried to find an intake manifold gasket model that would block them by design (they do exist on the LA engine), but did not succeed. Do you know an intake manifold gasket that would do it ? Alternatively, how would you go about blocking those passages ? Edited by Chrome58 2019-02-21 8:27 AM | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7400 Location: northern germany | Why would you want to do that? It worked for billions of cars when these where still driven daily around the globe and was added to every carbureted engine not without a reason. Think about the noney they could have saved by omitting it. Benefits: Faster warm up, reduced engine wear, less fuel consumption, longer spark plug life, no need to regularly clean spark plugs, no dangerous carburetor icing. If you got some sort of engine trouble, try to find the culprit, it is not the tried and true factory system. | ||
Chrome58 |
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Expert Posts: 1316 Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels | I know all this but I want to do it anyway. Furthermore the valve inside the exhaust manifold is already removed definitively. So let's focus this thread on how best to do it, rather than trying to convince me not to do it. | ||
StillOutThere |
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Location: Under the X in Texas | It is done on race cars. Attaching pic of the bottom of a optional 390HP intake for the 300C cars with the 399 code race engine. You can see the gasket imprint around the location where the open heat port would have been. This is a factory casting. It is from one of Carl Kiekhaefer's competition cars. Some racers will take a factory or aftermarket manifold and use the same high temp filler that is used to change cylinder head port configuration to fill - block the heat ports. So if you are building a race car, understood. If you are building for street use, you don't have a reason to do this, as 60 Fury stated. (DSCN5535_SML.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DSCN5535_SML.jpg (146KB - 150 downloads) | ||
Chrome58 |
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Expert Posts: 1316 Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels | Yes I do have reasons to do this. #1. The valve regulating this warm-up device has been permanently removed, and the axle holes have been shut. #2. My engine has a tendency to overheat, and therefore to overheat the intake manifold #3. I have stalling problems when hot, probably linked to some kind of vapor-lock problem (see #2) Listen guys, I do not want to argue with everyone about why I should do it or not. I just need a sound advice on how to do it best. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hypothetically, once that the butterfly valve is fully open (or removed), there will be very low flow if any. There should be some flow due to the exhaust pulses, but, very low. To plug the channel, you must remove the intake manifold and fabricate your own "plugs" out of thin sheet metal (read tin can). | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3033 Location: N.W. Fla. | Chrome58 - 2019-02-21 8:38 AM Yes I do have reasons to do this. #2. My engine has a tendency to overheat, and therefore to overheat the intake manifold #3. I have stalling problems when hot, probably linked to some kind of vapor-lock problem (see #2) #2. You overheating problem should be fixed on its own, not really related. Clogged radiator or engine passages, wrong or no thermostat, ect. #3. May have to do with the crappy gas we have now. I installed a phenolic spacer under the carb on my 331 & similar problems went away. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3776 Location: NorCal | wizard - 2019-02-21 6:49 AM To plug the channel, you must remove the intake manifold and fabricate your own "plugs" out of thin sheet metal (read tin can). I would use stainless steel. | ||
mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5006 | Best way is to fill the heat riser but yeah just block it off. I would, I don't know how this would save gas or carbonize your plugs... I have a hot heads hemi manifold so mine is blocked off but I am using a EFI, so no carb icing either https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AH-jbjS2HM | ||
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