57plymouth - 2007-09-27 5:53 AM

I am pretty sure that I will be upgrading to a spicer style in the front sometime in the future. I know you don't need to service a ball and trunion often, but it is a hassle to find parts when you do.

wbower3 - 2009-01-30 4:31 PM

Dorman also makes a one peice 'quick boot' for current CV joints on front wheel drivers. The ones I used are in the Dorman catalogue at O'Reilly's. They have big and little. I believe that I used the bigger ones on the d/shaft of my '55. They go on just like the original factory boots. You disassemble the joint, ie take the balls and needle bearings off. work the boot over the cross shaft, small end first, and the after everything is good and greasy, using a very blunt tool, you stuff the boot through the small end of the outer housing . Once the stuffing operation is finished, you use either a strong tie-wrap, or the original clamping straps to secure the small end on the shaft and, if needed, trim the big end to the required length and securre it on the outer housing. Reassemble the balls and put the correct amount of grease in the joint, and reattach the sheetmetal dust cover. I took about an hour to do including cleaning up the joint and finding all of the needle bearings that fell on the floor when taken out of the parts washer..................LOL:) Walt

Kenny J. - 2009-01-30 11:42 AM

The main body of my '59's front u-joint was worn out. The route I took can be seen in the attached image.

Not only will it be easier for me find a front a u-joint when the time comes, but it also saves the remaining N.O.S. main bodies for the serious restorers.

K.

Kenny J. - 2009-01-30 5:42 PM



The main body of my '59's front u-joint was worn out. The route I took can be seen in the attached image.

Not only will it be easier for me find a front a u-joint when the time comes, but it also saves the remaining N.O.S. main bodies for the serious restorers.

K.

57plymouth - 2011-08-31 7:04 AM

Still no issues with this repair. The Dorman CV boot is working just fine.

REDRAM - 2010-03-10 6:31 AM



Yep...I did mine last summer, used the boot for an 01 NEON,(1 pc) did all of the above, have driven it at leats 500miles since with no probs.

di_ch_NY56 - 2012-09-28 9:51 AM

I assume I'll disassemble the trunnion sooner or later - Lord only knows when I'll find some time -and I'll install a 2001 Neon outer CV boot from RockAuto. I hope there is only old and hard grease inside and not too severely worn parts.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter

Leadfoot1000 - 2012-09-23 11:15 PM

The info on this site is awesome, sure saves a lot of time and trouble. I just finished servicing mine and installing the Dorman Boot 614-001 (01 Neon), Autozone part number is also 614-001 & cost $15.99. Took about 1.5 hours on the bench, that includes cleaning each needle bearing with a paper towel. I didn't use the thin grease that comes in the kit, I used semi-synthetic u-joint/wheel bearing grease, thicker bodied like original. My 57 shop manual says not to use more than 2.5 ounces of grease in the assembly or you could risk throwing it out of balance. But 2.5 ounces is more than plenty. I also sprung $14 for a CV boot banding tool (epay) to get the band tightened to the right tension...

1960fury - 2012-09-30 11:05 PM



you mean you drive around with a u joint that has been serviced who knows when, maybe never and the grease is 50+ years old? it takes only 1-2 hours to clean, repack, and install a new boot. i don't get it.

1960fury - 2012-10-01 2:07 PM


looks great leadfoot! do not forget to use some sort of breather. felt works great.

Leadfoot1000 - 2012-10-03 11:28 PM



Thanks, it's easier than it looks in the shop manual. I don't understand where I would need a felt breather?

ttotired - 2015-05-20 6:30 PM

Jaded, you must be a younger feller, as I know a lot of younger fellers do this

There were no V6 engines installed in early mopars, they are a strait 6 or inline 6

Up until 1960 they used a flat head engine, then it went to a slant 6 (engine leans to one side), but they are all inline 6 engines

Its a habit that I have seen a bit that all 6 cyl engines are now called v 6's just because there are very few cars produced today with inline 6's and people think that all 6 cyl engines are called v6

The first time a saw a strait 8 was weird for me, I thought all 8s were v8's

Anyway, not picking on you, just a pet pieve for me

jaded13640 - 2015-05-17 7:05 AM Hi, new to the forum, first post. I know this is a slightly old thread but I need some information. I have a 57 Surburban and need to know what series the rear u joint is. The ball and trunion is good and tight. I see a kit on moparmall.com for 150 bux with the u joint, ball and trunion, boot etc but all I want is the rear u joint. I don't have it up in the air to measure it. I've got a hand full of minor things to do when I get it up on the hoist but I want to have all the parts I need before raising it. The pain in the arse about it is, with my hoist it's a little too close to the back wall so for most cars I back them in but for long vehicles like trucks, vans and 1957 Dodge Surburbans have pull them in forwards and switch the legs of the hoist around. Not that big of a deal but a pain in the arse. So when I'm ready to do it, again, I want to have all I need and do it all while it's up in the air. The auto parts stores so far have all told me their info only goes back to 58. I'm sure it's a common series joint but don't know which and they can't tell me. Thanks in advance, Wayne