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REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints
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58coupe
Posted 2015-05-24 9:51 AM (#479242 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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Location: Alaska
I looked at that Spicer list and they show the cap style u-joint 5-1304X as a discontinued number. If it was my car, I would change the rear yoke to use the 7260 style of u-joint.
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jaded13640
Posted 2015-05-24 9:42 PM (#479292 - in reply to #479242)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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Good idea, I was actually considering something like that myself. That yoke actually looks like a round cap would fit in if the diameters matched. I've got the car ready to go on the hoist tomorrow. I jacked it up to get a look at and do some measuring on the u joint but I was having a really hard time getting a good view in the cramped quarters. It'll be a breeze on the hoist.

Once I have the numbers I'll see what series matches and try it.

My only concern about changing the yoke on the rear end is that it match the drive shaft. The yoke would obviously have to match the U joint style on the drive shaft AND would have come out the same distance, or close to it, from the rear end so that the drive shaft length would work.

I've got a couple of yokes for 8 3/4 but it seems to me the old ones were a different diameter pinion than the new ones. 489 vs. 741/742. While I have it up I'll see what number is on the pig. I don't know if they were 489's all the way back then or not.

Either way I'll need to measure the u joint that's on it and determine what series will fit the drive shaft and if it'll work in the existing yoke. If not, if I've got a yoke and it will work on that rear end...

All this over a worn u joint.

Again, the picture on the "kit" from moparmall shows four round caps. The kit does NOT show a set of straps which leads me to believe it's either a generic picture or they assume you're changing out the yoke. Of course tomorrow's a holiday so I won't find anything out from them on that till Tuesday at the soonest.

If anyone has any knowledge about those rear ends, they're series, what's interchangeable and what the best way of going about this is, I'm all ears. I'm really kind of surprised something as common as a U joint would be discontinued. You see a billion 57 chevys out there. I'm guessing the u joints for them are in stock at autozone.
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58coupe
Posted 2015-05-25 10:14 AM (#479329 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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Location: Alaska
Wayne, even Mopar discontinued that style after 57, IIRC. The 489 diffs. weren't used until the mid to late 60s. I believe the 741/742 yokes will interchange but not sure. Any difference in length would be negligible. I have a spare yoke but check with John at BigM, he is closer.
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57chizler
Posted 2015-05-25 12:33 PM (#479346 - in reply to #479329)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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All yokes prior to '69 were 10-spline but, with the introduction of the 489 in '69 they could be either 10 or 29-spline. Ditto for the 741, after '68 the could be either.
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jaded13640
Posted 2015-05-26 12:23 AM (#479411 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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Stopped at Autozone for a u joint...big mistake. An overweight, 18 year old hispanic girl with a tattoo of her baby daddy's name on her neck looked at me like I had lobsters crawling out of my ears when I said I didn't have an application, and that I just needed a 7620 series U joint. LOL

Finally the smartest guy in the place walked up and started pulling up possible applications and pulling parts until one matched my dimensions. The existing yoke will not accept a 7620 series joint which is what has to be used on the shaft. I supposed a bas***d joint could be used if you didn't have another yoke but I had one. The one I had that worked was off a 7 1/4 out of a 67 Baracuda. At least that's what my buddy said he thought it must have come from. My only concern is the new yoke has a thicker area under the nut. With it on the pinion the nut doesn't go nearly as far down. But I'm sure it'll be fine as long as it's tight. Some locktight probably would have been a good idea but I didn't think about it till just now.

I also had a leaky pinion seal, of course Autozone gave me the wrong one but I got lucky, I dug through my old gaskets and seals and actually found one.

I typically don't deal with Autozone but my normal source was closed today. It's a good old fashioned store where the people selling parts actually know parts. The Advance Auto near me is just about as bad as A zone unless I know the part number and can tell them what to look up or one guy is there who really knows his stuff. I have no clue why he works there, he could literally be running a service department at a dealership.

I also found another Stromberg WW that my buddy had since God knows when but it's throttle shaft is just as sloppy as mine. I can't seem to win there. Those have a very long amount of the shaft protruding from the base plate and the throttle lever is kind of big. On top of that they seem to all have pretty beefy return springs on them. At idle the spring that holds the accelerator pump down will hold the throttle part way open so I assume that's why they used such strong springs. I'm assuming that those reasons are why it's common for the throttle shafts to be sloppy on the WW's. It looks like I'll end up buying an NOS one off ebay unless I get lucky and find one with a good base plate.

Anyway, thank everyone for all your help on the u joint issue.

Been a long day, off to bed.

Wayne



Edited by jaded13640 2015-05-26 12:25 AM
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Paul Hettick
Posted 2015-06-05 3:49 PM (#480509 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Trying to get a dorman 314-531 quick boot from auto zone, o'rielly's ect.


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the numbers no good. Anybody know of a different number for a two piece quick boot? working on a v8 powerflite car
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Paul Hettick
Posted 2015-06-05 5:36 PM (#480513 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints


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Bought an outer boot for a 2001 neon. Its way too big and can't be trimmed. The number ending in 001 does not come up.
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jimntempe
Posted 2015-06-05 5:42 PM (#480514 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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I saved the below info from an earlier thread..

install a 2001 Neon outer CV boot from RockAuto.
use a strip of thick (around 1/16") felt between the boot and shaft and do not overtighten strap. (that's to allow the air inside to breathe)
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57plymouth
Posted 2015-09-21 2:44 PM (#490197 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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Well, now we know.

That two piece CV joint boot left the building this weekend. Coming back from a cruise in about 1.5 hours away from home it flew apart. So if anyone wonders how long this will last, about 8 years.
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jimntempe
Posted 2015-09-21 4:07 PM (#490207 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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Posts: 2312
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Location: Arizona
Interesting. Rear end ratio's are about 3 to 1. So when those boots are used on a CV joint they only spin about 1000 rpm at highway speeds. On a drive shaft it would spin 3000 rpm. Many "spinning thing" forces go up as the square of speed. So three times the speed could be as much as 9 times the centrifugal force trying to separate the two halves of the split boot. Amazing it stays on at all in that application.
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57plymouth
Posted 2015-09-21 4:17 PM (#490209 - in reply to #97980)
Subject: Re: REFERENCE: CV quick boot and U joints



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Posts: 3577
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Location: Blythewood, SC
You know I'm going to toss another one on. 8 years is a long time, and the part is pretty cheap.
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