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 Power Windows Chrysler 60Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944      Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | |||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | |||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Excerpt from "Passenger Car Parts Catalogue 1960 "P" Series" made as an Excel file. Sparepart numbers for regulators etc. Source Wizard Sven Andersson Edited by wizard 2008-03-19 7:57 AM Attachments ----------------  Window Lift Electric.xls (26KB - 239 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Please do not make any comments to this posts - only dry facts! The first picture shows a rear 4 door HT regulator. The second picture shows the differenses between the front (2) and ther rear (5) reduction gears. The third picture shows a complete drive unit for a rear 4 door HT regulator, with the longer motor (consumption 20 Ampere with load (window)) Edited by wizard 2008-04-03 8:27 AM (Resize of IMG_2508.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2528.jpg) (Resize of Rear_HT_motor.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_2508.jpg (73KB - 204 downloads) Resize of IMG_2528.jpg (99KB - 212 downloads) Resize of Rear_HT_motor.jpg (82KB - 210 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Rear 4dr HT regulator, note that all the embossed numbers are individual part numbers for the different parts in the assembly. No actual embossed number matches the spare part numbers (Resize of IMG_2555.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2556.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_2555.jpg (57KB - 209 downloads) Resize of IMG_2556.jpg (55KB - 196 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Renovation of the "short motor" The photo 2558 shows the cleaning of brush residue between the collector plates, be careful not to damage the collector plates. The photo 2559 shows polishing of the collector with a electric drill and grade 200 sandpaper (sorry for the blurred photo - but its in real time) The photo 2560 shows a close up of polishing the collector (if the collector has deep grooves - do not decrease it's diameter too much - better leave some grooves) The photo 2561 shows the brush plate with the built-in circuit breaker (the circuit breaker can very much be the reason for a "dead" motor - bad contact etc.) The photo 2562 shows the complete "short motor" with measurements (I still guess that the short motor is for the front doors) The consumption of the motor shall be 14 Amps with load (reduction gear, regulator and window). Connect an Amp meter in serie with the actual motor on the circuit breaker mounted on the cowl and check the Amp reading while running the window up-down. Edited by wizard 2008-04-04 4:08 AM (Resize of IMG_2558.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2559.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2560.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2561.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2563.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_2558.jpg (48KB - 210 downloads) Resize of IMG_2559.jpg (72KB - 211 downloads) Resize of IMG_2560.jpg (70KB - 214 downloads) Resize of IMG_2561.jpg (95KB - 210 downloads) Resize of IMG_2563.jpg (48KB - 219 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | This is the left front door regulator - same regulator is used in all the types of front doors. The photo 2564 shows the inward face of the regulator The photo 2565 shows the outward face of the regulator The photo 2566 shows the regulator complete with reduction gear and motor The photo 2567 shows the motor mount nuts that I changed to metric M5 (yes, it's the same thread) the M5 is a much smaller nut and it will be easier to change the motor without removing the regulator from the car (remember to cut up access holes so that the nut closest to the door can be demounted) Edited by wizard 2008-04-04 10:00 AM (Resize of IMG_2564.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2565.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2566.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2567.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_2564.jpg (60KB - 219 downloads) Resize of IMG_2565.jpg (56KB - 203 downloads) Resize of IMG_2566.jpg (61KB - 195 downloads) Resize of IMG_2567.jpg (71KB - 207 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Demounting of the reduction gears; The photo "Broken gear" shows the reduction gear before demounting The photo "Gear protection" sleeve shows a aluminum sleeve that just fits over the gear and supports the reduction gear case around the shaft The photo "Shaft protection bar" shows a square bar with a milled hole with same diameter as the shaft only deep enough to properly seat the shaft in The photo "Shaft protection bar in position" shows the bar in position with the shaft seated in the hole The photo "Rigged for pressing" shows the reduction gear in a vise, ready for pressing The photo "All parts" shows all the parts in the reduction gear. When pressing out the shaft, be careful and apply just a little pressure at the time, until the shaft slowly frees itself from the gear. Edited by wizard 2008-04-10 5:15 AM (Resize of Broken gear.jpg) (Resize of Gear protection sleeve.jpg) (Resize of Shaft protection bar with seat.jpg) (Resize of Shaft protection bar in position.jpg) (Resize of Rigged for pressing.jpg) (Resize of All parts.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of Broken gear.jpg (69KB - 217 downloads) Resize of Gear protection sleeve.jpg (57KB - 200 downloads) Resize of Shaft protection bar with seat.jpg (74KB - 222 downloads) Resize of Shaft protection bar in position.jpg (62KB - 201 downloads) Resize of Rigged for pressing.jpg (84KB - 218 downloads) Resize of All parts.jpg (58KB - 222 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Measurments of the "Long motor" (I still guess that the long motor is for the rear doors) The consumption of the motor shall be 20 Amps with load (reduction gear, regulator and window). Connect an Amp meter in serie with the actual motor on the circuit breaker mounted on the cowl and check the Amp reading while running the window up-down. (Resize of IMG_2598.jpg) (Resize of IMG_2599.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_2598.jpg (49KB - 197 downloads) Resize of IMG_2599.jpg (41KB - 216 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Here is one single switch that had bent contact plates and bad contact surface. An opening was "milled" out with a Dremel machine for to be able to straighten out the contact plate and for to be able to polish the contact surfaces. This way one does not have to risk to break the potmetal when opening the switch. (Resize of IMG_2601.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_2601.jpg (53KB - 217 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Reproducing of the rubber washers for the regulator arms; The first photo shows my press with pipes which I made on my lathe - the outer diameter shall be approximately 22 mm equals to 0,866 in and the inner diameter 11 mm equals to 0,433 in The second photo shows the produced washers in black rubber, white rubber and silicone - I will test out which type that will be the best. The third photo shows a washer on the shaft on the regulator. Edited by wizard 2008-04-11 12:35 PM (Resize of Press_pipe.jpg) (Resize of Black rubber_White rubber_Silicone.jpg) (Resize of Washer on regulator.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of Press_pipe.jpg (54KB - 206 downloads) Resize of Black rubber_White rubber_Silicone.jpg (35KB - 203 downloads) Resize of Washer on regulator.jpg (49KB - 214 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I got 2 reduction gears with broken motor mounts from Joakim Laren (thanks man!) I carefully pressed out the shaft with my tools and cleaned up the parts. Then I made a brass presser sleeve in my lathe for to press the gear back on the shaft. I also made a hard metal punch sleeve for to give the shaft a good round with the sledge hammer, this for to browbeat the end of the shaft. This method worked just nicely. (Resize of Brass presser sleeve.jpg) (Resize of Presser sleeve in place.jpg) (Resize of Pressing gear.jpg) (Resize of Hard steel punch sleeve.jpg) (Resize of Kiss of iron.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of Brass presser sleeve.jpg (84KB - 215 downloads) Resize of Presser sleeve in place.jpg (64KB - 219 downloads) Resize of Pressing gear.jpg (68KB - 213 downloads) Resize of Hard steel punch sleeve.jpg (75KB - 213 downloads) Resize of Kiss of iron.jpg (75KB - 222 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | As usual this thread for information only - please do NOT post anything else than pure dry information here - there is another thread for powerwindow for comments. I was able to get a dead power window motor and here's what they might look like! The bushings was beyound repair, so I hade to made me some new ones. The water protective cap was missing so I made a dime of aluminium and made a new cap from chrimping tube. The measures of this Imperial motor is the same as the "Long" motor for the rear HT doors, but the mounting screws where too short, so I changed them for longer ones. Edited by wizard 2008-05-30 4:19 AM (Dead motor.jpg) (Homemade bushings.jpg) (Dime and chrimping tube.jpg) (Raw cap.jpg) (Trimmed cap.jpg) (Cap in place.jpg) (Motor measures.jpg) (Gear and motor.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Dead motor.jpg (109KB - 200 downloads) Homemade bushings.jpg (56KB - 193 downloads) Dime and chrimping tube.jpg (31KB - 204 downloads) Raw cap.jpg (33KB - 193 downloads) Trimmed cap.jpg (29KB - 205 downloads) Cap in place.jpg (31KB - 216 downloads) Motor measures.jpg (48KB - 197 downloads) Gear and motor.jpg (48KB - 195 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I finally got the missing motor, but it came from a 1959 Imperial, front door. That is the same motor, but the 59 motor has 2 external connection terminals - the 60 motors has 2 cables coming out from the motor. The first picture shows the state of the motor The second photo shows the motor after cleaning The third photo shows the bushing and it's felt and spring washer - when the motor shaft go harsh in the bushing, the bushing starts to spin with the shaft, hence the felt will be worn out - here's my solution - a turned cup/bearing holder and a normal bearing. The fourth photo shows the parts before mounting The fifth photo shows the cup in place The sixth photo shows the bearing mounted The seventh photo shows the motor mounted to the reduction gear (Resize of Before.jpg) (Resize of Clean.jpg) (Resize of Bushing_Bearing_Cup.jpg) (Resize of Parts_before_mount.jpg) (Resize of Cup_in_Place.jpg) (Resize of Bearing in place.jpg) (Resize of Reduction_Short_Motor.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of Before.jpg (58KB - 186 downloads) Resize of Clean.jpg (61KB - 188 downloads) Resize of Bushing_Bearing_Cup.jpg (38KB - 183 downloads) Resize of Parts_before_mount.jpg (49KB - 189 downloads) Resize of Cup_in_Place.jpg (55KB - 162 downloads) Resize of Bearing in place.jpg (45KB - 180 downloads) Resize of Reduction_Short_Motor.jpg (40KB - 175 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Heres a simple drawing for the bearing cup (Motor bearing.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Motor bearing.jpg (34KB - 195 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Today I started to cut the holes for the wiring harness of the power windows. This is a little bit tricky without demounting the doors from the body, but it's doable. I used a "Dremel" highspeed tool for to drill the 10mm holes for the "screw-hole punches" first with a small drill and then with a special home-made 10mm drill. The screw-hole punches works like a dream - I bought the 1 inch punc at ELFA (that would be Radio Shack for you US guy's) and the 35mm punch is bought at IKEA (for the kitchen zink taps) It's not easy to get the cutting punch in position, but with patience and willpower and an extra joint on the wrist, I finaaly made it. Here are som photos from the driver front door - on the 60 Chryslers, the reference is the highest countersink punchmark in the door and the A-pillar (Resize of Special_10mm_drill.jpg) (Resize of 35mm holecutter.jpg) (Resize of Hole_in_front_door.jpg) (Resize of 25,4mm_hole cutter.jpg) (Resize of Cutting.jpg) (Resize of Template.jpg) (Resize of Both_holes_done.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of Special_10mm_drill.jpg (43KB - 189 downloads) Resize of 35mm holecutter.jpg (47KB - 174 downloads) Resize of Hole_in_front_door.jpg (50KB - 195 downloads) Resize of 25,4mm_hole cutter.jpg (51KB - 192 downloads) Resize of Cutting.jpg (42KB - 196 downloads) Resize of Template.jpg (39KB - 175 downloads) Resize of Both_holes_done.jpg (41KB - 194 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I have now also made the holes for the rear doors and mounted the "banana-tubes". The rear doors was more easy, due to better access for the drilling machine. The "B"-pillar is heavy gauge, so it was hard to cut that hole, but the screw-hole punch made it under protest (had to grease it up with copper paste) (Resize of B-pillar_hole.jpg) (Resize of Rear_door_hole.jpg) (Resize of Right_rear_door_cable_tube.jpg) (Resize of Left_rear_door_cable_tube.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of B-pillar_hole.jpg (50KB - 182 downloads) Resize of Rear_door_hole.jpg (46KB - 188 downloads) Resize of Right_rear_door_cable_tube.jpg (47KB - 177 downloads) Resize of Left_rear_door_cable_tube.jpg (39KB - 172 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | As usual, please try to keep this thread without comments! I have now started to mount my power window kit, first I installed the cable harness into the left channel under the carpet and into the rear left door and front left door. The cable harness then leads up to the circuit breaker situated under the dash onto the left cowl just over the kick panel, then across the floor just under the carpet on the cowl, over the tunnel and into the front right door and finally into the rear right door. The door skins for the front doors already have a perforated precut for the master switch and for the single switch, but the rear door skins are differs as for manual windows and power windows. If the switch is mounted where it ment to be, then you would have the hole for the window crank open. My solution to this is to mount the rear switches exactly where the window crank was mounted. That means that the switch will be in a slightly different position, but it will cover the hole for the window crank. (Resize of IMG_3501.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3502.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3499.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3504.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3501.jpg (83KB - 183 downloads) Resize of IMG_3502.jpg (80KB - 176 downloads) Resize of IMG_3499.jpg (69KB - 194 downloads) Resize of IMG_3504.jpg (93KB - 171 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Here is a photo of the differences between manual and power regulator for the right front door (Resize of IMG_3507.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3507.jpg (72KB - 169 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | The doorskins are a little bit soft from moist and drying through the years, so as a reinforcement for the bezel that mounts into the doorskin, I cut square holes in thin aluminum plates. Now the plate gives stability to the bezel and hold the doorskin straight (the springs for the doorcranks had shaped the doorskin a little convex). (Resize of IMG_3535.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3536.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3535.jpg (30KB - 163 downloads) Resize of IMG_3536.jpg (33KB - 169 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I have now mounted, adjusted and tested the right rear regulator. It runs very smooth without binding. I made an extra reinforcement bracket for the normally unused fixation point. With the doorskin in place, I think it looks good. (Resize of IMG_3548.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3551.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3548.jpg (49KB - 165 downloads) Resize of IMG_3551.jpg (53KB - 164 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Here you see the 2 front door motor/gear support brackets, one end of them mount to the threaded holes in the gear and the other end mounts to the inside door structure, distributing the force from the motor/gear/regulator also to the lower pressing of the inside door structure. Pictures will follow of the bracket in place. (Resize of IMG_3558.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3558.jpg (47KB - 183 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Just got my order from KP USA bilar - another missing part of the puzzle - The loom tubes for the cable harness in the front doors. The fit was good and they appears like they always where mounted. (Resize of IMG_3560.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3562.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3563.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3560.jpg (26KB - 167 downloads) Resize of IMG_3562.jpg (42KB - 168 downloads) Resize of IMG_3563.jpg (46KB - 172 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | I have now mounted all the regulators and here are some more pictures. The first picture is a drawing for the nylon bushing that mounts on the regulator stud. Picture 3566, 35 67, 3570, 3572 and 3573 speaks for them selves. The last 2 pictures shows the left front door regulator mounted. Edited by wizard 2008-11-20 2:56 PM (bushing.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3566.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3567.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3570.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3572.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3573.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3574.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3575.jpg) Attachments ---------------- bushing.jpg (20KB - 169 downloads) Resize of IMG_3566.jpg (48KB - 166 downloads) Resize of IMG_3567.jpg (38KB - 155 downloads) Resize of IMG_3570.jpg (52KB - 158 downloads) Resize of IMG_3572.jpg (63KB - 181 downloads) Resize of IMG_3573.jpg (56KB - 156 downloads) Resize of IMG_3574.jpg (57KB - 180 downloads) Resize of IMG_3575.jpg (58KB - 165 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Just got some other parts of the puzzle, the lower window stop brackets and reinforcement bracket between support bracket and door bottom for the front doors. Edited by wizard 2008-11-21 6:22 AM (Resize of IMG_3578.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3579.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3580.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3578.jpg (34KB - 175 downloads) Resize of IMG_3579.jpg (18KB - 181 downloads) Resize of IMG_3580.jpg (32KB - 158 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Here is the prepuched insicions for the holes for the reinforcement bracket, and the left door with all parts mounted. Last picture shows the correct support brackets for the rear door - my post 151235 with image IMG 3548 is WRONG, but I cannot cancel it. Pictures will follow on the bracket in place. (Resize of IMG_3584.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3586.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3587.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3584.jpg (54KB - 167 downloads) Resize of IMG_3586.jpg (60KB - 177 downloads) Resize of IMG_3587.jpg (43KB - 178 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Now I have installed the power window kit. The 2 pictures shows the support/reinforcement brackets in place and also the lower rear window stop. I have also posted an inventory list for a conversion kit for a 4 door hard top - the front doors are the same whatever the body, but the rear 4dht door fits only 4 dht body's. I had a really good time searching, renovating and mounting the parts. I had great help from Jörgen Bengtsson and Ken Palmkvist - thank's guys! Eventually I will post some pictures of the doorskins here, but this thread has reached THE END. Edited by wizard 2008-11-21 12:21 PM (Resize of IMG_3588.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3589.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3588.jpg (58KB - 186 downloads) Resize of IMG_3589.jpg (51KB - 176 downloads) Inventory list 1960 Chrysler 4DHT power windows.doc (36KB - 353 downloads) | ||
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| wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 12944 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | a (Resize of IMG_3549.jpg) (Resize of IMG_3550.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Resize of IMG_3549.jpg (67KB - 157 downloads) Resize of IMG_3550.jpg (62KB - 165 downloads) | ||
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| 61forfun |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 466 Location: Vancouver, Washington | |||
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