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'58 Dodge Sierra [budget resto.] Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | After the Tulsarama trip last summer, and then our wedding in August, I and M'lisa didn't have much $'s left for much of a honeymoon vacation. Earlier this spring, I had picked up this '58 Dodge Sierra that was partially dis-assembled, and media blasted, and left behind at a rod shop where I bought it from the owner of the shop. After looking it over, I thought it would be a waste to part it out, as there was no floor rust at all, and most of the body was straight. I mentioned to M'lisa that it might be fun to do a quick resto on the car, and then take a trip around the country in the fall- we both like taking trips on the old 2-lane roads to see the REAL America. We're shooting for the car to be completed by early October, and keeping costs down on the project to leave money for fuel [which we'll need plenty of at this rate!]. We'll post pics as it progresses. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 003.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 004.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 003.jpg (75KB - 252 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 004.jpg (54KB - 267 downloads) | ||
catman |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 781 Location: Montreal, Canada | Cool, cool, cool John Can't wait to see progress on this one. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | After unloading all the boxes of parts from the car, I discovered that most of the side moldings were missing, all the door panels, and several other items. I called the fellow that I bought the car from, and he simply said that he didn't have time to look through the car to determine what was there. He told me that he would try to find the parts, as well as send me a bill of sale. I hate when people pull stuff like that! Upon close inspection, I discovered many pinholed areas where the media blast had perforated the body-better to find these now than later though. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 007.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 008.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 009.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 010.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 011.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 012.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 013.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 014.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 016.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 018.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 007.jpg (147KB - 268 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 008.jpg (139KB - 265 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 009.jpg (137KB - 284 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 010.jpg (145KB - 264 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 011.jpg (140KB - 269 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 012.jpg (140KB - 274 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 013.jpg (143KB - 285 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 014.jpg (144KB - 263 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 016.jpg (141KB - 268 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 018.jpg (147KB - 268 downloads) | ||
jsrail |
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Expert Posts: 1590 Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Love those wagons John. Hope you get it done in time for a nice trip. Just JB Weld the pinholes! lol | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Next step was to cut all thin and corroded metal away until solid sheet metal could be found. The size of the holes increased drastically here. As is usually the case, pockets of trapped dirt and/or sound deadening material was found in all these spots. I used a Miller plasma cutter to do this quickly and efficiently. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 019.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 020.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 021.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 022.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 023.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 024.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 025.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 019.jpg (132KB - 272 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 020.jpg (138KB - 258 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 021.jpg (139KB - 271 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 022.jpg (150KB - 266 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 023.jpg (155KB - 260 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 024.jpg (156KB - 269 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 025.jpg (149KB - 274 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | jsrail - 2008-06-25 10:07 AM Love those wagons John. Hope you get it done in time for a nice trip. Just JB Weld the pinholes! lol Thanks, Jay, I'm going to try my best to have it ready to go-most of the work I'm doing has to be done at night, still gotta work to pay the bills. ---John | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | I used a high pressure air nozzle to reach up intu the inner panels, and it was amazing what all came out. Dirt, sand, old yellowjacket nests, even an old penny from 1956! With a high speed wire wheel, I removed all the loose rust in these areas, welded up any holes from either rust or the plasma cutter, and treated the metal with Over-Rust, a product that is similar to POR-15, but is sold for ag equipment that is left outside yearly. I dressed the edges of the cut areas to prepare them for welding. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 026.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 027.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 031.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 026.jpg (151KB - 275 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 027.jpg (146KB - 251 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 031.jpg (142KB - 268 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Patch panels- I didn't want to put out money for patch panels, as the aftermarket ones I have bought in the past rarely ever fit correctly. I made my own pieces using the contoured sections from other body panels. Out in the scrap bin, I had a portion of a '60 Ferd quarter panel, a '62 Merc innerfenderwell, and a '56 Desoto fender. I had saved all the pieces I had cut out, to match up the curvature of them to the replacement pieces. Bingo! got all right on, except for the right lower quarter. I had to do that one in two pieces. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 034.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 035.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 029.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 030.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 034.jpg (141KB - 253 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 035.jpg (132KB - 252 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 029.jpg (149KB - 273 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 030.jpg (138KB - 248 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | After stitch-welding all the patches [to cut down on the chance of warpage] and then the final welding, all welds were ground down, and the surrounding areas were cleaned of any primer. I'm not going to post a ridiculous # of photos, as everyone here has seen it many times over. Solder- rather than to purchase sticks of solder @ $3.50 each from Eastwood, when we scrap junk radiators and cut quarter panels off, I have the guys save all the body solder that runs out in a pan. I made a mold to pour fresh sticks of lead to save money. These are some of the tools I use for doing this work, most are quite a bit older than the car. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 041.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 042.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 043.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 041.jpg (148KB - 264 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 042.jpg (141KB - 276 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 043.jpg (139KB - 245 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | I tinned the metal with Tin-Ezy compound, which is basically powdered lead and acid combined. This is the most important part in the process to ensure a lasting job, and the metal must be 100% clean in order for it to work properly- This is the right side rocker with a light coat of solder from the tinning- ('58 Dodge wagon 006.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 005.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 006.jpg (138KB - 241 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 005.jpg (136KB - 250 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | The solder is applied in rather a lumpy fashion, then is heated with a small torch so it can be worked with a paddle. The paddles are hardwood, and will stick to the hot solder, so you must lubricate them to prevent this. Some folks will use Tallow[ sheep fat] while others choose to use a lightweight oil, which is what I use. Happened to have half a container of auto trans fluid, so that is what I used. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 038.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 039.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 040.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 038.jpg (144KB - 247 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 039.jpg (150KB - 262 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 040.jpg (146KB - 273 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | The elbow grease comes next- All areas are then filed smooth, this is quite time consuming. Any air or power tools will release very fine lead dust, which can poison you. Here are some of the areas, near completion. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 036.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 049.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 050.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 051.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 052.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 036.jpg (150KB - 247 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 049.jpg (146KB - 269 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 050.jpg (147KB - 251 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 051.jpg (138KB - 245 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 052.jpg (142KB - 246 downloads) | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | I removed all the glass, as well as the garnish pieces around the quarter windows that were showing rust, and it was no wonder they rusted- there was zero paint or any kind of protective coating applied from the factory. I cleaned the loose rust off with the wire wheel, and applied the rust treatment to the body. I can save a few pieces of the garnish trim, but the right side one was shot- I'll rob one from a parts car later. ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 045.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 046.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 047.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 048.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 045.jpg (150KB - 253 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 046.jpg (150KB - 242 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 047.jpg (149KB - 237 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 048.jpg (154KB - 238 downloads) | ||
mangodart |
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Regular Posts: 74 Location: Falicon 06 France | That's a very nice wagon you've got here, remind me mine, but you've got less rust then I do, I like to know how to repair the rust as you do !!! I must learn 'cause all the body repair shop see big $$$ when you bought them a car like this, or don't want to do them !! If you've got a 318ci with 2 barrel, it won't cost you that so much fuel !!! | ||
1955Coronado |
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Expert Posts: 1918 Location: Hell's Outhouse - a.k.a. Buckeye, Arizona | May? Hey! You've been holding out on us, John. Not bad when you've got a solid base to work with..... | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | mangodart - 2008-06-25 12:37 PM That's a very nice wagon you've got here, remind me mine, but you've got less rust then I do, I like to know how to repair the rust as you do !!! I must learn 'cause all the body repair shop see big $$$ when you bought them a car like this, or don't want to do them !! If you've got a 318ci with 2 barrel, it won't cost you that so much fuel !!! Emmanuel, most body shops prefer to do production work, as the jobs can be completed quickly for greater profit. The reason most shops either refuse to, or write a sky-high estimate, is that they are afraid of finding 'surprises' such as poor prior body work, and of course, rust. If you do the grunt work and strip the car to bare metal, most shops are more willing to write a more reasonable estimate, as now everything is exposed. ---John | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | So, THAT'S what they mean by "tin-worm". Amazing/scary what-all lies beneath seemingly good condition sheetmetal, huh? That good-Luck penny may date to your car's manufacture. Too bad it's not Y-o-M ! | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | John, can you confirm, revise, or refute my theory that the factory did not bother to dip, fully, the cars into their rust-proofing vats????----thus allowing the upper rusting to occur? As a side-bar, the factory rust-coating may and does get deservedly poor marks, but, at least it was applied, and this upper-area rust out shows what happens when there isd NO rust proofing applied. Finally, how difficult is is to remove 1/4 windows, and who makes/sells weatherstrips for them, and do those windows show delamination/oxidation around their edges, and are any aftermarket windows available, today ? Wrecking-yard/ parts-cars, only? | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | Nice work John!! - great to see you doing it right, with lead! I'm also doing all the bodywork on my 'Sweep with body solder, just lke the factories did back in the good ol' days! It's becoming a lost art - very few shops or DIY'ers will do it any more. | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | Neil - I removed the rear 1/4 windows on my '57 Sport Sub - it wasn't hard - I really took my time, mine were perfect with no delamination, and it was the super rare tinted glass, it was an A/C car, impossible to replace it on a wagon I'd think. That car still awaits resto by a friend, resting quietly in a dry barn. One odd thing I found was that the factory had used long thin strips of leftover headliner "cardboard" as shims all along the bottom edge of the 1/4 windows!!! I never found any new gaskets/weatherstrips, but then again I hadn't checked with GG. | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I'm pretty sure that G.G. doesn't re-pop those weatherstrips---talk about PRECISION, though; NO room for error in making them, but LOTSA room for OEM build-error in creating and installing the window-openings ! Funny/nice thing, though: we don't tend to see rust-out/leakages associated WITH the installation of OEM 1/4 windows. During the trip to/from Tulsa, I discovered SEVERAL previously-unknown windshield leakages (during Gully-Womper storms) round the header-panel area, including one bad-leak (once-started) which came down on the top of the steering wheel! My car's rear window has a bad leakage-area, that drips down onto the rt/rr seat top (even duting a light storm/car-washing). Fortunately, I've got clear plastic seat covers installed, so there is no damage to the upholstery. So, the factory "shims" appeared to work, just fine, in your car's 1/4 glass, Roger!!!! Edited by d500neil 2008-06-25 5:26 PM | ||
FinFan |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 709 Location: Poznan, Poland, Europe | Poor Dodge, it must have hurt it to have all this metal cut out but at least it looks that you know what you're doing, Big M, and the final effect will be worth the pain it had to go thru. I've once seen a Sierra in brown&beige, very nice. | ||
JimK |
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Veteran Posts: 259 Location: Detroit MI area | John, Welcome to the station wagon club! Unfortunately the tin worm sets the intiation rules. Neil, I'll let John cover his '58 but I can tell you the factory applied nothing to any inner part of my '57 Dodge wagon. Every part that was cut off or cut open from the lowest floor braces up to the roof revealed bare metal inside. Not even primer. My car looked decent until it came back from the media blaster. That's when you find out how bad they are. 62 metal patches later (who's counting and I'm not bitter) and several of John's fine used parts and the car is making good progress. Other than Sisu's wagon I've never seen a truly rust free Dodge wagon no matter where it came from. Gary Goers sells the quarter glass weatherstrips. They actually pretty simple things. No one makes the glass. I see them in yards and several times a year on ebay. The tough weatherstrps are for the tailgate. Gary also sells them but it takes multiple pieces. Jim Krausmann Detroit Edited by JimK 2008-06-25 7:04 PM (DSC00316.jpg) Attachments ---------------- DSC00316.jpg (84KB - 252 downloads) | ||
catman |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 781 Location: Montreal, Canada | Jim, Your car is looking goooood, man Did you put together a photo album????? If not, hope you do. It may be useful when I start my '59 Dodge resto. Great work John. Keep it comin' bro | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | d500neil - 2008-06-25 1:52 PM John, can you confirm, revise, or refute my theory that the factory did not bother to dip, fully, the cars into their rust-proofing vats????----thus allowing the upper rusting to occur? As a side-bar, the factory rust-coating may and does get deservedly poor marks, but, at least it was applied, and this upper-area rust out shows what happens when there isd NO rust proofing applied. Finally, how difficult is is to remove 1/4 windows, and who makes/sells weatherstrips for them, and do those windows show delamination/oxidation around their edges, and are any aftermarket windows available, today ? Wrecking-yard/ parts-cars, only? Neil, just like Jim's wagon, there was only bare metal on the hidden upper body areas, no effort was made to hold back the rust. Goers and an E-bay seller, user name ladnsin, has the gasketing available for the quarter glass. These windows are tempered glass rather than laminated, and are not available as reproductions. They are not too tough to find, as all the Mopar wagons from '57-'59 use the same ones. I will probably elect to change all the windows to the Solex glass when it comes time to re-install them. ---John | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | A couple coats of primer and a guide coat later, starting to look a bit better. Mind you, I still will have hours and hours of block sanding and panel alignment to contend with, but until I get to the stage of having the mechanicals in good shape, I'll wait to do it. The car is in an open barn, and accidents can happen. Next- to get the drivetrain together! ---John ('58 Dodge wagon 053.jpg) ('58 Dodge wagon 054.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge wagon 053.jpg (154KB - 228 downloads) '58 Dodge wagon 054.jpg (140KB - 236 downloads) | ||
jsrail |
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Expert Posts: 1590 Location: Scottsdale, AZ | Great work John. Coming along at a good pace it seems (for what you've had to deal with). Thanks for all the pics and know-how. | ||
RoyalGate |
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Expert Posts: 2011 Location: Ballwin, Missouri | What did you do about all of the little pin holes that surfaced after the media blasting?? Was that just a little drop of lead on each hole, like the big spots?? | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | My wagon also had no primer inside any upper panel - the rust on the underside of the roof was everywhere, and the inner removable roof moldings were actually eaten through in a number of areas. The channel over the rear tailgate was completely rotted inside & out, as were channel areas over the rear 1/4 windows and the windshield header... that's why it now belongs to a professional body man! Oddly the lower channels of the rear 1/4 windows were solid, but the top areas were shot! Guess that water never heard of gravity, or it became trapped up there. And this was a desert Eastern WA car! Edited by firedome 2008-06-26 11:35 AM | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | RoyalGate - 2008-06-25 10:20 PM What did you do about all of the little pin holes that surfaced after the media blasting?? Was that just a little drop of lead on each hole, like the big spots?? Any of the pinholes that had solid metal around them [most became larger holes] I turned the wire speed and amperage down on the MIG welder, and carefully filled the holes, using a wet rag to wipe the panel down in between each time. It's very easy to warp large panels if the metal expands too much, and the wet rag helps to shrink the metal back into place. ---John | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I would really like to be able to go back in time, and listen to the discussions that the boardroom boys had, about why the wagons didn't need to receive proper and full rust treatment. "Oh, Hell, they're just tools that nobody's ever gonna be interested in; by the time that any UPPER-area rust-outoccurs, the cars will be needing to be replaced with a newer one, anyway. Don't worry about it. It's not as if anybody is ever going to want to RESTORE (which term probably didn't exist, in the mid-50's) one. " Edited by d500neil 2008-06-26 4:39 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | The fact that the 1/4 glass is tempered, is probably a GREAT thing, as they will not oxidize at their edges, like a laminated glass panel will, and does, do, huh??? | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | I've never seen tempered glass deteriorate at the edges, Neil. The de-lamination seen in laminated glass is caused by the deterioration of the vinyl that is sandwiched inbetween the two layers of glass. Just like any other glass, tempered is not immune to scratches and chips. ---John | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Yeah, the deterioration is due to air working its way between the glass layers and harming/discoloring the sandwiched vinyl layer. NOW; if somebody would just re-pop the perforated masonite headliner material....MoPar Mel is re-doing the headliner bows. Edited by d500neil 2008-06-26 5:27 PM | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | Who could afford Mel's bows, for a wagon, at $100 apiece!! I think he and Mitchell must be cousins... "just milk the suckers!!!" | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I'm no shill for anyone, but, Mel does have a lot of development and manufacturing costs to recoup before he realizes any significant profit from his endeavor. This might sound outrageous, but I could see $750.00 being charged for a complete set of correct custom-painted perforated masonite headliner panels. With computerization, the creation of "endless-loop" paint-masking would not appear to be too difficult to design, for those panels. Then, all that would be required is the fabrication of correct-fitting perforated light-weight 'masonite' material, which would have fiberglass insulation attached to it(??) Edited by d500neil 2008-06-28 6:53 PM | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | My '58 hardtop has off white masonite panels that have boomerang-like patterns in light grey on them... is that typical? Most of mine are good enough to use, but there is some warpage - how to fix that, before re-installing them...?? | ||
Fintail and Son |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 313 Location: New Jersey | John---What color are your going to paint it?---Fred | ||
57belvedere |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 406 Location: Voss,Norway | firedome - 2008-06-29 3:56 PM My '58 hardtop has off white masonite panels that have boomerang-like patterns in light grey on them... is that typical? Most of mine are good enough to use, but there is some warpage - how to fix that, before re-installing them...?? Roger The mid section panel in my 57 Belvedere had some warpage and the stiffnes in the panel was gone so it was sagging badly. What i did, i had it on a plate under the double madrass in the bed for 10 years and after that it was good as new. Had the stiffnes back and no sagging at all. Its true, you should try it but maybe its enough with 5 years....... LOL Edited by 57belvedere 2008-06-30 12:19 PM (tak2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- tak2.jpg (21KB - 225 downloads) | ||
imopar380 |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7205 Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | d500neil - 2008-06-25 1:52 PM John, can you confirm, revise, or refute my theory that the factory did not bother to dip, fully, the cars into their rust-proofing vats????----thus allowing the upper rusting to occur? As a side-bar, the factory rust-coating may and does get deservedly poor marks, but, at least it was applied, and this upper-area rust out shows what happens when there isd NO rust proofing applied. Finally, how difficult is is to remove 1/4 windows, and who makes/sells weatherstrips for them, and do those windows show delamination/oxidation around their edges, and are any aftermarket windows available, today ? Wrecking-yard/ parts-cars, only? Neil, I didn't think the factory did ANY rust proofing dips until the 1960 Unibody cars came out. I know those ones were dipped, as I could actually see where it was dipped up to, ( to about half way up / 18" ) inside the trunk on the quarter panels of my ex- 1960 Polara . This 1960 Saratoga that I have now was also sprayed ( by the dealer , or whomever ?? ), with tar undercoating all over the place, on the chassis, underside of the hood, and on the quarter panels in the trunk and also partly on the side braces running under the right and left sides of the trunk lid opening. Doesn't make for a pretty looking underside of the hood, I have to tell you with all that tar on it. Not sure what I will do to clean it up, probably have to leave it there.
Edited by imopar380 2008-06-30 1:06 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | The under-roofs may not have been rust-dipped, but Greg Leggatt sent me, years ago, a good detail shot of that area, which showed that there was gray primer (only?) applied to the under-roof area. We-all know how effective THAT treatment was! | ||
deloverly |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 755 Location: Big M Automotive's Yard | John told me to answer the question "what color are you painting it?" . I was thinkin pink with purple polka dots, but........ Actually we are going to two-tone it in Sapphire and Wedgewood. We just haven't decided which color will be the roof and lower, and which will be the middle. M'Lisa | ||
Fintail and Son |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 313 Location: New Jersey | A delightful and delovely color scheme----it will be beautiful no matter which colr is in the middle.---Fred | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | It may seem strange that I have done the body work first, before even having an engine in the car, but here's the scoop- The shop owner had promised to send me a bill of sale with the car, but ever since I informed him about all the missing parts, he has done absolutely nothing, and does not return phone calls. I went ahead and ran a lien sale for storage charges, and the DMV printout came up with a registered owner, presumably the person that gave the car to the rod shop. I did not want to put any money into the car in case there was an ownership dispute at this time. After 30 days, there was no reply to the certified letter, meaning that the previous owner gave up any rights to the car. Now it is in my name, I can proceed with the work. I replied to a craigslist ad for some '58 Dodge wagon parts, and it turned out to be a portion of the missing parts from this very car. The lady that had the parts for sale verified that the wagon was her son's, and he went over to Iraq, and gave the car to the shop owner. This lady was happy to see that the car was going to be restored. I got most of the 350 engine, the heater core and box, some of the trim, the torque converter, brake booster and some other parts. ---John | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | CA is fairly fair-and-reasonable about acquiring ownership of an abandoned car. If anyone missed John's point: the "seller" of that wagon probably did NOT own the car, unless he was co-selling it, somehow, for the Registered Owner. Hopefully, & John is IN the Business, his Certified Letter spelled out precisely what John's interest in the car was, and that, via its Lien-Sale, John would be applying to obtain legal ownership OF the car. John, did you c.c. the 'seller' of your car, that you were going to apply for formal-legal ownership of it (of course) via Lien-Sale procedure? Once the car is all-prettied-up, the seller & former Registered Owner might try to claim fraud, or some-such deception in its purchase. Can't be too careful, nowadays. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Once the lien papers have been submitted to the former registered owner and any interested parties, there is a 30 day period [in California] where the lien can be legally disputed. After that time, the state DMV will show the lienholder as the new legal owner, unless a dispute has been filed. Being that there was no dispute filed, the car is legally mine, and all it takes to receive a clear California title is to submit the lien package, a VIN verification form, and application for original title. The title is generally received within two weeks. The guy that I bought the car from was basically selling the car without paying any taxes himself as it was never put into his name, and is not a legal transaction in the eyes of the law. ---John | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Riiiight; he NEVER actually (legally) owned it! Wonder why the former Registered Owner never smelled blood (dinero!) in the water, and tried to contest your rightful ownership of his former car? | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | When the owner joined the military and went to Iraq, his parents did not want to store the car, and he figured that he would never get to it anyhow, basically he did not want it any longer. When I picked up the other parts, the mother was quite friendly, and glad the car had gone to someone that was going to complete it. ---John | ||
56royaldodge |
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Account deactivated by owner's request Location: On this barrel | He might want it back once he realizes you were nice enough to paint it for him! How does CA define a lienholder - someone who CLAIMS ownership of something (without proof - no bill of sale)? Just curious ... | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | I charge 20 dollars per day for storage, and the number of days it was stored on my property times this amount is the amount required to 'bail' the car out. This is the legal method to gain ownership of a vehicle when towing, storage, repairs, etc. are due, and not paid for. Most states have similar laws. ---John | ||
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