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'58 Dodge Sierra [budget resto.] Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 Now viewing page 5 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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zachs58 |
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Veteran Posts: 234 Location: Dallas,Ga. | Your Dodge wagon looks Fab-U-Lous, John! Happy Motoring! -Zach | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13042 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Great work in short time John, now enjoy it with the famous FL grin allover your face! | ||
Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2596 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | VERY NICE WORK and I love the blue two tone combinations. | ||
deloverly |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 755 Location: Big M Automotive's Yard | We finished putting in the stereo this morning and left on our trip. Read JOHN AND M'LISA'S EXCELLENT ADVENTURE in the General area. - M'Lisa | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | Can't believe how fast you did that, all while running a business - amazing! What a bodacious wagon!!! | ||
mangodart |
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Regular Posts: 74 Location: Falicon 06 France | WONDERFUL job !!! That two tone suit the wagon so well. Where have you buy the dual exhaust ?? | ||
deloverly |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 755 Location: Big M Automotive's Yard | Hi Emmanuel, the exhaust was built and assembled by a friend of ours that we helped out awhile back. The original, rusty exhaust was used for a pattern. The car had duals from the factory. John and M'lisa | ||
suburban61 |
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Expert Posts: 1480 Location: Australia | your wagon is just beautiful.... the two tone metallic blue is just devine! looking at the thread, makes me a little less nervous about pulling mine apart for resto. did she come with paperwork/ books/ brochures? i love collecting all the factory literature that goes with the cars! adriana :] | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Hi Adriana, when I purchased the car, it was partially disassembled by the previous owner. There was no literature or brochures, and the seller neglected to give me a bill of sale or title. I had to acquire these on my own. M'lisa did pick up a brochure for the '58 wagons that was helpful in the re-assembly of the car. ---John | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | I made a quick tally of the money we have spent in this car's resto, and it is as follows- 1. Initial purchase price of the car-$1700.00 2. '59 DeSoto [used for engine, transmission, and some other small parts-$400.00 3. Misc. trim and mechanical parts purchased from original owner-$200.00 4. Misc. parts scavenged from the yard here, approx. value, -$400.00 5. New mechanical parts, tune-up parts, oils and fluids -$450.00 6. Complete upholstery, farmed out, complete, -$1050.00 7. Paint and body supplies[ includes welding wire, solder, sandpaper, etc.] -$1000.00 8. Tires-$640.00 9. Weatherstripping -$430.00 I'm sure that I have forgotten a few minor items, as well as I have never gotten the bill for the chrome plating [front and rear bumpers, blinker bars only]. Total- $6250.00 spent for this wagon. [Of course, all my labor was not added in.] ---John | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | You got a GREAT deal on the labor and materials costs for that interior, John! So, at a reasonable $50.00/hr, how many resto hours do you have invested in the car, and, has there been any resolution regarding the cause of your car's three wheel failures? | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | We have a friend that is retired and will do upholstery on collector cars, and he has always been good to deal with. As to the number of hours I have personally put into the car, I'm afraid that I did not keep track, whatsoever. I have gotten a replacement tire and will do some further checking into the wheel situation, as I saved one of the cracked ones for comparison purposes. Still playing catch-up around here after being gone for our trip. ---John | ||
Doright |
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Veteran Posts: 225 | John Very nice job you did very inexpensivly and FAST! Thanks for the PM on my problem sheet metal and the link to your Build. I need to take a road trip on a quest for sheetmetal It would be nice to come out and meet you. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Thanks, Dennis, If you do decide to come up this way, please drop me a note. Not planning on going anywhere, but sometimes old car caches turn up that I need to attend to. ---John | ||
Doright |
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Veteran Posts: 225 | ok will do | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | John, did you do something for the rear inner "fenders" - sorry don't know the right name for those parts. Anyway, they are the big rear interior parts that are covered in vinyl (and usually cracked). I might have to take the left one off since the middle seat locking mechanism which is partly inside the rear fender lost its spring and something else inside it. Unless you have those parts available(?), I wouldn't like to risk breaking big parts because of few small items. The bad point of having lost those few small items is whenever I have to brake hard the middle seat falls over... Cedric Edited by Sisu 2009-03-05 4:39 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Ced, yu gottum PICs of your seat, showing what you're looking for? | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Sisu - 2009-03-05 1:35 PM John, did you do something for the rear inner "fenders" - sorry don't know the right name for those parts. Anyway, they are the big rear interior parts that are covered in vinyl (and usually cracked). I might have to take the left one off since the middle seat locking mechanism which is partly inside the rear fender lost its spring and something else inside it. Unless you have those parts available(?), I wouldn't like to risk breaking big parts because of few small items. The bad point of having lost those few small items is whenever I have to brake hard the middle seat falls over... Cedric Cedric, the rubberized covering on the rear inner fenderwells was in not too bad of shape, other than being discolored, so I used some vinyl dye to make them look good. I have never had any luck trying to remove these, as they always crack or tear. Let me know what pieces you are needing, I can look through some of these wagons to see if I can gather your needed parts. ---John | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | Thanks John, if you look at the photo of my interior it shows the area where the parts are missing. Not from the bench, but from the body - its kind of a ball which locks the seat in place, there's also a spring - very simple but like said, all are now behind the inner fenderwell... Btw, if you have one of those long springs that go around the outside of the front brake drum, put it in a same package! I have no clue what the name of the part is in English... "Squeal Terminator 1.0 Spring Brake Special"
Edited by Sisu 2009-03-05 8:59 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Cedric, could you kindly post this pic, and maybe another one, showing the (front, maybe) door trim panel, to that particular 'DeSoto' thread, on Craigslist board, where the similar DeSoto door panels are shown, because your station wagon door panels (and upholstery!) are exactly what the Custom Royal convertible door panel, and upholstery, are SUPPOSED to look like (except, for that textured clear plastic covering---lololol). The CS wagon, and the CRL convie had the same 'plain' inner door panels, and, it is VERY rare to see a properly restored CRL convertible, although your car DOES still have its OEM upholstery installed in it! What a delight, to see (again). | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | No prob Neil (thanks for nice comments), actually the photos were taken by the original seller of the Sierra - its funny but till this date I haven't managed to take really good photos myself. The upholstery still has the 57 tags in the seams, I'm actually just doing the spring service (waxing, polishing, oil changes etc.) and always finding some new details to study. Whats wrong with the clear plastic seat covers You have them as well! (I love the showroom looks) EDIT: Neil, which topic do you mean? Edited by Sisu 2009-03-05 9:29 PM | ||
sparky7 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 636 | . . . more pictures of Cedric's wagon . . . . . (sigh. . .) Ced, there is a service bulletin on 57 wagons dealing with the exact problem you are having. If you haven't seen it I will post some scans here. Sparky | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | Sparky, would be great if you could post the service bulletin - if its ok for John that we are going slightly off-topic... Regarding the photos, if it makes you feel better - I can post photos of my project cars which are the complete opposite | ||
sparky7 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 636 | These are from Service Reference Book 116: | ||
sparky7 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 636 | Let's try that again: (seatcatch1.jpg) (seatcatch2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- seatcatch1.jpg (71KB - 235 downloads) seatcatch2.jpg (112KB - 207 downloads) | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | Thanks Sparky! Your photos explained everything. Yesterday I didn't want to take the garnish molding off since it felt like it was glued on (turns out they used really tough metal clips). So what seemed as a ball holding the seat, was actually a different type of part, sorry... I did as explained in the bulleting and was able to retrieve the parts from inside the rear fender. BIG THANKS! I'm going to use some Loctite when I put it back on... Basically the flaw is non-locking nut in the end of the piece. That's how I found mine... Btw, I'm always astonished how great original condition all the part are in the Sierra, even the rear fender area was perfect. Like said, compared to my project cars its great to have something that doesn't require any welding
Kenny - thanks for pics, those latches lock my spectator seat (love the name!), you just reminded me that the left one needs some adjustment! The reverse happens with the spectator seat, if I press too much gas the seat folds down, and when I apply the too much brake the middle seat falls over, its like a domino game! Haha, hope to get everything fixed now Thanks guys!! What more OT we could invent... Back to the Thong topic! Edited by Sisu 2009-03-06 11:53 AM | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | John, did you have any probs with your roof liner (I tried to search from your topic)? I have it slightly hanging between the front and rear seats, seems to be a common problem. | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Cedric, I was unable to source any kind of reproduction headliner boards, So I had to scavenge sections that were not broken from wagons in the yard here. Most of these had fallen from the roofs when the plastic retainers disintegrated. I set these on the barn floor [concrete] and put wet rags evenly between each panel, and set some heavy weights in the center. I let these set for a couple days until the rags were dry, and it removed the warpage. After that, a light mist of clearcoat to preserve the finisn that had begun to turn chalky. Some sags have since returned, as I expected, but the pieces have been staying in place in the retainers so far. ---John ('58 Dodge.jpg) Attachments ---------------- '58 Dodge.jpg (152KB - 237 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I don't know that I'd clear-coat a hardboard headliner, but there must be a practical way to epoxy a thin sponge- thing to the underside of a section of headliner, and then to glue the sponge-thing to the roof. I wonder how much cleaning-solution the headliner can take, before the Endless-Loop paint becomes removed from the headliner? Maybe something like "409" spray cleaner? I'd probably go through a whole roll of paper towels, applying one squirt of solution, followed by a new-clean piece of towel, to avoid smearing or grinding-in any dirt, on the hardboard. | ||
ThomasD500 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 508 Location: Orlando | d500neil - 2009-03-06 6:19 PM I don't know that I'd clear-coat a hardboard headliner, but there must be a practical way to epoxy a thin sponge- thing to the underside of a section of headliner, and then to glue the sponge-thing to the roof. I wonder how much cleaning-solution the headliner can take, before the Endless-Loop paint becomes removed from the headliner? Maybe something like "409" spray cleaner? I'd probably go through a whole roll of paper towels, applying one squirt of solution, followed by a new-clean piece of towel, to avoid smearing or grinding-in any dirt, on the hardboard. Even a small amount of 409 and a very light touch will remove the print from those panels. Ask me how I know... | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | d500neil - 2009-03-06 3:19 PM I don't know that I'd clear-coat a hardboard headliner, but there must be a practical way to epoxy a thin sponge- thing to the underside of a section of headliner, and then to glue the sponge-thing to the roof. I wonder how much cleaning-solution the headliner can take, before the Endless-Loop paint becomes removed from the headliner? Maybe something like "409" spray cleaner? I'd probably go through a whole roll of paper towels, applying one squirt of solution, followed by a new-clean piece of towel, to avoid smearing or grinding-in any dirt, on the hardboard. Neil, it was either try the clear coat or end up spray painting the panels off-white. Just dusting them removed quite a bit of the original finish. ---John | ||
RoyalGate |
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Expert Posts: 2011 Location: Ballwin, Missouri | d500neil - 2009-03-06 5:19 PM I don't know that I'd clear-coat a hardboard headliner, but there must be a practical way to epoxy a thin sponge- thing to the underside of a section of headliner, and then to glue the sponge-thing to the roof. I wonder how much cleaning-solution the headliner can take, before the Endless-Loop paint becomes removed from the headliner? Maybe something like "409" spray cleaner? I'd probably go through a whole roll of paper towels, applying one squirt of solution, followed by a new-clean piece of towel, to avoid smearing or grinding-in any dirt, on the hardboard. A small strip of Velcro glued to the roof and panel holds them in place just fine. | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | big m - 2008-10-07 12:44 AM I've found nearly all the pieces needed for the car except for the potmetal upsweeps at the rear. Here is a pic of a typical upsweep on a '57 Sierra, the same as the ones used on the '58 sierra. The Custom Sierra I am working on uses different ones, they actually dip downward and go forward quite a bit. note the downward curve in the molding hole line. If anyone here has a pair of these, I could certainly use them. ---John I have two of them in perfect NOS quality, not for sale (unfortunately) - they are stored just "in case". They were around 50-60 USD each in eBay (cheapest they get!), but I've noticed someone is asking 200,- (!). Crazy, anyway - if you wait long enough you have a pair... Thanks for your replies regarding the roofliner, my next question is about the dashboard. I will temporary replace my gas gauge and the clock with NOS ones until I get the original ones repaired (yes, I always prefer to keep the car ORIGINAL - not NOS Original!). I noticed you painted your Sierra with the dashboard installed. Were you really able to install all the gauges etc. without removing the dash? I removed the dash from my project 2D HT, but as I today tried replacing the old gauges through the underside of the dash of the Sierra - no chance with my clumsy hands (unless I remove the steering column which I don't want to do, also the under dash air con unit is in the way)! I have a friend who's a gynecolog - she could remove all the gauges through the exhaust pipes but her services are too expensive in this case! How was the underside of your dash? I studied mine today and yes - in fact its completely unpainted from the top area, still absolutely no rust after 52 years - everything's like new! I would imagine that if there are no leaks through the windscreen rubber it stays perfect. Its just interesting to see where the station wagons get damage when these cars get older. Edited by Sisu 2009-03-07 4:20 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I definitely like the VELCRO protocol; only tricky part would be the proper alignment of the two sections; a large square section of the "velvet ("Velcro being a composite of 'velvet and crochet'-but, cha'll knew that) glued to the roof would allow for a large target-area, for the crochet'ed piece to hit, but, there would be almost no wiggle-room to maneuver or to adjust the position of the hardboard, once the crochet hits the velvet; looks pretty-much like a 1-shot attempt. A better idea is to attach both pieces together, and then to apply a liberal coating of glue, to the velvet-section, so that it could be slid-around, as necessary, to position the hardboard properly. The problem with THIS protocol is the necessary SUPPORT of the hardboard, against the roof, while the glue dries, so as to prevent any unusual warpages in the hardboard as a result of the glue drying. I'd suggest that a lot of SMALL sections of velcro be glued-down, to allow for a symmetrical contact-patch, to spread-out the area of the gluing, instead of possibly-having a major depression where a large section of the velcro might deform the shape of the hardboard. The small patch(es) of velcro might make the hardboard easier to remove, in the future. This definitely sounds like a 2-men-and-a-boy sort of project, but, it should be doable, with some experimentation, and planning. Cedric, not just because John still owes me a favor, on a brake booster take-apart deal (ahem), but, you really should consider selling/trading John for those two 1958 quarter panel trim pieces (which are completely useless to your 1957 wagon, as being spare-parts). As we say, in the NFL: you could trade then to john, "for a future draft choice" , meaning he'd owe you for some rare parts that you'd need, in the future, or, maybe, even, right-now; plus some cash from him---depending upon the rarety and value of what it is that you're needing. Believe me: those pieces are not particularly rare (as you say, yourself) in the sense that most (intact) wagons will have them on them, but, your pieces ARE NOS, and that makes them valuable, in addition to them being available, right-now, to John. I'm sure that he'd be most appreciative of your generosity (and, you really do not need them, for any of your cars---THAT'S the beauty of buying nice-stuff, when you happen to find them : trading-or-profit potential !!!) Edited by d500neil 2009-03-07 5:15 PM | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | Neil, I read again what John wrote and realized the ones pictured are not the type he wants?! I have exactly the same ones he has pictured, so they must be '57... Therefore - mine are not good for John? Regarding the installation of new gauges, I removed the speedometer and that seems to give enough access to replace the fuel gauge and clock - so advice isn't required any more... At the same time I decided to remove the dashboard because mine seems to be metal but the surface is some kind of coating giving plastic look (non-original). Now is good time to get it trimmed with black vinyl and that should restore my dashboard to original specs. Btw, I'm sure John has enough screws, bolts etc. on his yard - but I would appreciate if there were packages like "57-59 All Screws for dashboard, trim etc." available. There's always one or two missing and getting them from Europe isn't that easy Mopar used so many different lenght of screws that hunting them takes bit more time than I have | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | I think that Gary Goers sells packages of screw-sets. Just dashes makes and sells a perfectly-fitting dash cover for our cars. I'll PM you some pics that' I've got of someone else's having installed a Just Dashes' padded dash into his car. The dash panel is comprised of a lot of pieces, but, you're only concerned about the upper section. You do want to remove the dash assembly, in order to scrape-grind off that textured surface that's on it, now. Be careful not to scratch any of the base-of-windshield painted trim pieces (if they're not already contaminated by that texturing material). Yeah; the 1958 wagon trim has a noticible "V" like depression on it, and its a fairly flat surface, too. Bummer... | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | Thanks, Neil. I was really happy to notice the previous owner didn't actually remove the dash. Seems he only took the old vinyl off, then they used some sort of coating to cover the dashboard . They made it really perfect, actually the workmanship was so good that I thought till today that the whole part is some aftermarket plastic part! I have sandblasting facilities so I can clean it off, paint the part semi-shiny black and glue the vinyl (Just Dashes or whatever) on. I still find it remarkable how absolutely great the condition is inside the dash for a car thats 52 years old. No leaks from windscreen also. I have to study John's photo's a bit, but I guess his dash was also perfect underneath? Left side the NOS clock and old one one at the right. In front you see the fuse I'm looking for...
The NOS clock has year 62 stamped behind (usually I don't trust new technology, LOL):
I'm sorry John this is slightly off topic, I just enjoy reading how you restored yours... Btw, I did have problem with fuel gauge, checked everything (sensor, wires..) and noticed actually the gauge was broken. I had few NOS fuel gauges in "stock", so replacement wasn't a problem (they are often available quite cheaply). Even small things like working fuel gauge and clock makes me very happy! | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Ced (now don't get scared), I have, for many years, when the clock stops running, just shot about .5sec of WD-40 into the large rear orifice that you show, and, the clock returns to the living, for a long-time, and, for whatever reason, the WD-40 does NOT show up on the underside of the face of the clock. Also, and here's a REAL trade-secret: to speed up, or to retard the clock's timing, just hand wind the clock 12 hours for each minute that you want the timing to be adjusted, per day. The little-useless clock bulb gets installed into that orifice, and that one clock is missing its very-necessary fuse-block connection piece, unless, that's it, lying on the upholstery, there. Be sure to disconnect the battery any time that you go messing around with any of the behind-speedo-housing connections- stuff. Our cars don't really have fuses installed; we have circuit breakers installed behind the driver's kick panel, and, there's one on the firewall, behind the dash panel, too. Looks like your 'one' clock, there, might have been overhauled in 9/62. If you can't dial-in the timing on a clock by adjusting the time, by 12 hour increments, the clock's internal 'points' are probably worn out, and the clock will need an overhaul. Lotsa companies repair our clocks. | ||
Sisu |
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Inactive by Request Posts: 1292 Location: Lovely place | Thanks! I thought the reason for non-operation is dirt - or like it seems, lack of oil. Would be unfair to expect that original clock would work 52 years without problems - that would mean the seconds needle moves 1.639.872.000 times... No chance... Very interesting to learn how one can adjust the clock! The photos I'm showing actually show the NOS (or rebuilt) clock after I changed the fuse from the old one. So, the new one didn't come with one. Anyway, I plan to send the original clock somewhere for repairs and put it back on. Previously I told I rather have original parts than NOS parts - only in case of emergency I replace old parts... Now I hear ticking sound inside the car, maybe it gets disturbing and I replace the broken one back in, LOL! Btw, so far the clock is the most expensive spare part I've ever installed in my Dodge's! Second most expensive is NOS station wagon fuel sensor (actually YOU gave me the hint to buy one!). Usually I'm not comfortable for paying so much for parts... Some parts you need for future and then only option is starvation and paying the price. Edited by Sisu 2009-03-09 8:34 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | You will LIKE the sound of your clock ticking; it's cool sounding. Ticktickticktickticktickticktickticktick....etc. And, with a 2.76:1 rear end, you can hear (not) the clock running, at speed, too. | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3966 Location: DFW, TX | I enjoyed re-reading this thread from nearly ten years ago. The Dodge turned out great, John! Many names I haven't seen post in quite a while, and of course Neil is gone. I think I will re-read some of these threads in the coming weeks and put them back to the top so our new members can enjoy some of the better ones! | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | Thanks, Danny!! We're driving this one to Viva Las Vegas in a couple weeks. I have to replace the transmission, as it started slipping after driving it 15,000 miles or so. The original was in unknown condition. ---John | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | I didn't know that you still owned this John. Good to see you enjoying it again. | ||
oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | Did you recover the swivel seat that came with the car??? | ||
big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7805 Location: Williams California | oldwood - 2018-03-29 7:06 PM Did you recover the swivel seat that came with the car??? It never had one, Dorsey. They weren't available until '59. | ||
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