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"Make-Up" your Car!
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   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Body, Glass, Interior and TrimMessage format
 
wizard
Posted 2012-06-18 3:46 PM (#326089 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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I really like the idea with the sanding disk - smart one! Did you send the mirrors to a chrome shop for to de-chrome them? Also the new wires is interesting!!
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-18 3:56 PM (#326090 - in reply to #326051)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (2)

3. The steel shell: I couldn’t find steel shells thin enough to pass through the oval tube in the stand. I repaired and joined segments of an obsolete old mirror to the short one, with thin connection tubes used in the electronics (09). The steel shell must fit exactly face to face, no use of glue, then turned them inside together. If needed fix them by a heat shrinking tube. The extended three steel shells (170cm) are fixed tight together to a solid flexible unit (10). The silicon tube (8mm), is previously expanded in nitro solution (30 min) for easy inserting. This highly flexible tube, sustaining up to 180deg, protects the control wires from water and diminishes slippage when adjusting the mirror from one side to the other. Now the remote controlled mirror for the passenger side can be assembled to be ready for mounting, the joints can be seen on the picture (11).

4. The control line: Searching for the shortest line to the dashboard I found best to pass behind the hood hinge, this as well for the driver side. I modified the shaft of a conical drilling tool to fit a 1/4" adapter (12). With some 1/4" extensions I could easy widen the hole up to 20mm to fit a rubber protector, where the fixing plug of the interior isolation was previously removed (13). Now the control wires behind the hood hinge are much shorter, hardly visible and in a heat protected place (14).
(will be continued)



Edited by sermey 2012-06-19 4:28 AM




(09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg)



(10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg)



(11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg)



(12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg)



(13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg)



(14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 09 - Repairing - Extending the steel shell.jpg (95KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 10 - Fix the three steel shells.jpg (55KB - 327 downloads)
Attachments 11 - Passenger remote mirror assembled.jpg (133KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 12 - Drilling tool to fit 025 adapter.jpg (64KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments 13 - Drilling tool assembly.jpg (67KB - 302 downloads)
Attachments 14 - View control wires behind hood hinge.jpg (71KB - 324 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-20 5:26 AM (#326289 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Power Window Connectors:

For a good function of the power windows, the supply current should flow with minimum resistance, to assure a fast lifting: adequate wire diameter, soldered and cleaned connectors. A few pictures illustrates how this can be done. It is sufficient to label only the +12V wire (black marked), for all other wires can easily be changed, thanks the external additional (soldered) crimp-connectors (blue) in pic 07.  – SERGE -


Edited by sermey 2012-06-20 7:58 AM




(01 - Single connector soldered.jpg)



(02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg)



(03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg)



(04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg)



(05 - Connectors mounted.jpg)



(06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg)



(07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 - Single connector soldered.jpg (101KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg (103KB - 276 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg (122KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments 04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg (135KB - 269 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Connectors mounted.jpg (98KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg (169KB - 466 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg (113KB - 286 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-21 12:09 PM (#326489 - in reply to #326090)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (3)

5. The gasket: After the body of the mirror has been assembled and connected to the control line, it can be mounted on the fender, still without the mirror-glass. Although I got gaskets, I preferred to use my system as described earlier here. This gasket can be inserted without removing the mirror and the three control wires, and easy replaced at any time. It is thick enough not to leave impressions in the paint, and fits as custom-made. This is a Silicon-Rubber profile, as I used as well for the dual rear antennas, cut in the correct length (circonference of the stand). The ends are glued together to a fixed ring (15). Unscrew the mirror, so as the profile can be inserted and pushed-in (16). When the gasket fits all around, then tighten the screws (17).

6. The wire attachment: The described operations may be very usefull for those who have to repair their remote mirror. First of all, the three wires already fixed to the glass now must be inserted through the shell. To get the correct length the glass has to be fixed fully inside the body, to assure a sufficient tension to hold the mirror-glass at the end (18).

Due to the nickel-chrome alloy, the wire cannot be soft soldered. For a solid attachment crimping sleeves are needed, as is original. For this purpose I used standard rivets, D 4mm, L 5.5mm (19). Before removing the nail, the diameter of the rivets head should be reduced from 7.5mm to 6.5mm in order to fit to the control unit (20). The end of the flexible control wire is bent to be better fixed when crimped, using a standard AMP tool (21). Take care to correct diameter for crimping, or the rivet may not fit anymore to the control unit (22)! Now the wires can easily be attached (23). To know: the rivets cannot be removed after crimping. Can cut away, must restart with shortened shell and wire (-6mm).

On the passenger side, these operations can be done outside the car, for the control wires are long enough to pass the small side window (24).

(wiil be continued)

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-21 12:28 PM




(15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg)



(16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg)



(17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg)



(18 - Fixing the glass.jpg)



(19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg)



(20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg)



(21 - Crimping the wire.jpg)



(22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg)



(23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg)



(24 - All control wires attached.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg (81KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments 16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg (131KB - 281 downloads)
Attachments 17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg (77KB - 289 downloads)
Attachments 18 - Fixing the glass.jpg (115KB - 290 downloads)
Attachments 19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg (111KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments 20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg (101KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments 21 - Crimping the wire.jpg (113KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg (73KB - 362 downloads)
Attachments 23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg (110KB - 291 downloads)
Attachments 24 - All control wires attached.jpg (92KB - 338 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-25 9:55 AM (#327059 - in reply to #326089)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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wizard - 2012-06-18 9:46 PM I really like the idea with the sanding disk - smart one! Did you send the mirrors to a chrome shop for to de-chrome them? Also the new wires is interesting!!

Here how as I did all parts  to be rechromed on my car:

1. Disassemble all items to single parts

2. Bring them to the galvanic shop for remove chrome and nickel. Old copper will partly be removed due to strongness of nickel-removal.

3. Restore items geometry by punching, grinding, . . . and pre-polish to get the control of the surfaces.

4. Bring them again to the galvanic-shop for copper-plating. Needs enough copper for last restoration.

5. Fine-grinding and polish the item (01). The rechromed part will exactly be shiny as it has been polished.

6. Bring to the galvanic shop for nickel-plate and chrome-plate. Looks as in 5., but now in "blue" chrome (02).

When nice polished and rechromed, the mirror-effect should be sharp as from a glass-mirror (unfortunately my rugh ceiling is reflected, but some differences on the the Pic are apparent). If you can polish the items by yourself, you alone decide how nice the items will become.

To know: from polishing you will get more black than from grease.

 

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-25 3:24 PM




(01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg)



(02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg (149KB - 279 downloads)
Attachments 02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg (181KB - 451 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-26 3:31 AM (#327181 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Adjustment of the flasher: Here the proceeding, when the directional lamps flashes too fast. It is checked on a spare part I had, a bigger flasher, but the principle remains identical. This one flashed too fast, connected to my car.

First remove the housing by grinding around till the lip-ring detache (01). Then bent the contact with a pince up (here I did it by hand), to increase the distance at opened contacts for a slower flashing. It must be the contact without bi-metal (zoomed), just about 0.1mm (02), must be checked. Finally fix back the metal housing using instant glue inside around (03).

Can let the ignition and the blinking ON. just connect and disconnect the opened flasher for better handling, and put back for test. Don't hold at the contacts, only the socket!



Edited by sermey 2012-06-26 3:52 AM




(01 - Opened flasher.jpg)



(02 - Contact to adjust.jpg)



(03 - Instant glued metal housing.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Opened flasher.jpg (93KB - 293 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Contact to adjust.jpg (102KB - 279 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Instant glued metal housing.jpg (87KB - 270 downloads)
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56Fanatic
Posted 2012-06-26 9:41 AM (#327196 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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You can buy decent electronic flashers for less than $15 or $20. Their flash rates are controlled electronically and are not dependent on load.
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-26 12:11 PM (#327213 - in reply to #327196)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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56Fanatic - 2012-06-26 3:41 PM You can buy decent electronic flashers for less than $15 or $20. Their flash rates are controlled electronically and are not dependent on load.

This is a good advise, for I didn't know, unless it was to be expected. Do they sound when flashing as well?



Edited by sermey 2012-06-26 5:03 PM
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-30 3:17 PM (#327833 - in reply to #326489)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1042
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (4)

7. The control unit: As my car didn’t was equipped with a remote mirror on the left fender I had to find out how and where to fix the control unit. Referring to pictures I built a bracket according the position where it should be. Later I found an instruments housing with the original bracket, included the delete plate (25). So I used the original one, as well the “MIRROR”-bezel (26). Other then original, the left hand control line behind the hinge now allows a straight and shorter connection. The right hand control unit was fixed with a chrome bezel, included with one mirror set, mounted exactly on the vertical under the left knob of the radio (27). This was the nearest available place, for other locations were already used. Here the control unit just not fit under the radio, the left lower corner of the housing has been slightly cut-out. The remote mirror on passenger side can now be adjusted by the driver, comfortable as the radio knob, while still keeping the rear view.

8. The final result. Due to the new Nylon covered multi strand stainless wire, the right side mirror with the much longer control line, is much slighter adjustable than the left side one. I will replace the old control wires as well. Finally I mounted the chrome bullets (28), fixed with M4 in the mirrors nut, as already described here: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&... A black rubber washer seals from entering water, and can be considered as an additional styling element (29). The two rear view mirrors, more sophisticated then the former ones, restored have now become: NT-NOS (= Nicer Than - New Old Stock). They underlines once more the exceptional art-work on forwardlook cars.

Dual remote outside rear view mirrors, an additional exclusive feature on an outstanding 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible.  – SERGE -      

 



Edited by sermey 2012-06-30 4:33 PM




(25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg)



(26 - Left side mirror control.jpg)



(27 - Right side mirror control.jpg)



(28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg)



(29 - Mounted bullets.jpg)



(30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg (107KB - 295 downloads)
Attachments 26 - Left side mirror control.jpg (135KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments 27 - Right side mirror control.jpg (139KB - 300 downloads)
Attachments 28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg (110KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments 29 - Mounted bullets.jpg (145KB - 293 downloads)
Attachments 30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg (136KB - 325 downloads)
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Windsor Wendy
Posted 2012-06-30 5:09 PM (#327842 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Nice one Serge! Beautiful work! I too made a right hand remote controlled mirror, one of the first parts I made for our car.
I had a much easier job as we have the other type of twin strut mirror and I just combined several parts and used 2 sets of OEM cables.
They were connected to form the long cables with adjusters in the middle for fine-tuning the adjustment properties.

I won't spoil your beautiful thread with pics of my un-restored mirror set-up on an un-painted car...
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sermey
Posted 2012-06-30 10:06 PM (#327888 - in reply to #327842)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Windsor Wendy - 2012-06-30 11:09 PM . . .  used 2 sets of OEM cables. They were connected to form the long cables with adjusters in the middle for fine-tuning the adjustment properties. . . .

You have as well a nice and intelligent approach, Wendy, my compliments!

I will present a more easier way as those mentioned here: no need of 2 sets of OEM cables; the length of the wires also adjustables without needing to cut and re-crimp the rivets for the correct length: adjustment not in the middle of the cables, but at the end on the control unit. I will present this here as "Supplement" as soon I will have completed on my car and illustrate with pictures.   - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2012-07-01 1:46 AM
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-05 9:02 AM (#328452 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Location: SWITZERLAND

Head Lamp Bezel: When purchasing this item, the fixing clips are often rusty, broken or even missing (01). Before rechroming, they anyway have to be removed. Instead of these single metal clips, I used on each side two standard Nylon washers (D20 x d10.5 x t2mm) to fix the head lamp bezel. Metal washers are not flexible!
Grind the washer, flat on one side of its diameter, from D20mm to 18.5mm (or to d3.5mm distance to inner diameter) (02). Then, with a self-tapping stainless pan head screw (D2.85mm x 5.5mm), the Nylon washer can be fixed on the bezel (03). Due to the asymmetric grinded surface on one side, and to the geometric shape of the bezel on the other side, the washer cannot turn around and remains fixed, but still being flexible for mounting (03). Because of the originally uncentered threads of screw on the bezel, the Nylon washers have not the equal length, but this doesn't influence the function at all (04). A perfect Head Lamp Bezel you can see here:

http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=34070&start=10
 
When needed, this is an instantly, simple and rustfree solution, and not scratching the paint when assembling.  - SERGE -

To Know: This Head Lamp Bezel is identical for the left and the right side. What you see here I did already 10 years ago, the Nylon washers have become a little bit yellow..



Edited by sermey 2012-07-05 3:54 PM




(01 - Missing Clips.jpg)



(02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg)



(03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg)



(04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Missing Clips.jpg (87KB - 330 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg (133KB - 271 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg (150KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg (142KB - 289 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-05 2:39 PM (#328488 - in reply to #326089)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Reminder: The solutions in this thread are NOT THE BEST ones. They show HOW I DID IT: logical, efficient and at all successfully approved on my car.  - SERGE -      
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-07 6:42 AM (#328720 - in reply to #324539)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Location: SWITZERLAND

Soft Front Styling: Supplement to  http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=144

I found some missing pictures commented here. The cutting line has equal distance (78mm) to the end, for keeping the original angle (3a). In the shortened chrome bar, four screw threads M4 (not M3!) are cut (3b). On the other side, the four Allen stainless screws are then shortened as needed (3c). As usual, it looks nice and solid. 



Edited by sermey 2012-07-07 6:46 AM




(3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg)



(3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg)



(3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg (69KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments 3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg (143KB - 328 downloads)
Attachments 3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg (113KB - 295 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-07 3:06 PM (#328758 - in reply to #324539)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Location: SWITZERLAND

Soft Front Styling 2:
Here again: A soft styling is only visible when direct comparing with the original. This should just accentuate or hide some style elements being part of its original design.

The parking lights of the 1959 Dodge I find just a little bit too much in the background (01). View from side, especially on pictures, the collars around the lamp body doesn’t show as they  should (02). Not much better from top (03). By simply  moving this unit to front, including the chrome bar, this would make this styling more exposed.

Just remove the parking light assembly, put underneath washers or plates as distance, about 10 - 15mm at all according personal preference, the screws are long enough (04). Washers can be added and removed afterwards at any time. Then re-assemble the unit as well with the chrome bar mounted. My shortened chrome bars have anyway an additional bracket for fixing, thus before tightening it can be positioned, otherwise as well washers will be needed. The positioning of the chrome bars should be done carefully in order to keep the full harmony of the front. They should be aligned vertically (05) and horizontally according the bumpers inclination (06). After this small moving to front, the change can easy be seen at the mounted collars, or in direct comparison (07). Best effect is visible from inside (08) or exact from side position (09).

This soft front styling injects to a 1959 Dodge a decent “horny” appearance!  - SERGE -        

N.B. The red rust-protecting paint behind the body (04) is from the former owner. He used to paint all with, even no rusting surfaces as shown here.

 

Edited by sermey 2012-07-08 7:35 AM




(01 - Original Position.jpg)



(02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg)



(03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg)



(04 - Distances-washer.jpg)



(05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)



(06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)



(07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg)



(08 - Moved - Right View.jpg)



(09 - Moved - Side View.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 - Original Position.jpg (75KB - 265 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg (97KB - 290 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg (111KB - 301 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Distances-washer.jpg (148KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (129KB - 287 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (113KB - 284 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (146KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Moved - Right View.jpg (124KB - 280 downloads)
Attachments 09 - Moved - Side View.jpg (115KB - 304 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-16 3:02 PM (#330140 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1042
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Head Lamp Assembly: The head lamps on my 1959 Dodge are un-centered (01), the glass-ring of one lamp is even nearly touching the head lamp bezel (02). There is no way provided to center them, they are factory “adjusted by design-engineering“. Here I show how I fixed it on the right head lamp. Same proceeding to apply for the other head lamps.
As all parts, including the beamer lining, are related to the main housing, no post-readjustment of the beamer will be needed when centered. The main unit has just to be moved toward the center position (03). To get the single head lamp unit adjustable the three fixing holes have to be enlarged to 6mm dia, or grinded to enable the needed shift. For the illustrated case here, this was not sufficient. Because the border of the main housing prevented to extend the fixing wholes as needed, this had to be done on the car-body side. I inserted riveting nuts M5 according the displacement. The aperture for the lamp unit on the car-body had as well to be grinded accordingly (04). I cut all M5 threads in the body, for easy inserting the stainless Alen screw M5 inside the assembly (05). Then I used the opportunity to give the glass-ring a soft polish (06).
Fix the lamp unit just to remain still movable. The glass-ring, as well the head lamp bezel, now have to be pre-fixed as reference for centering. When centered "by eye", remove again the head lamp bezel to have access to the fixing screws M5. With the final tightening and the re-mounted head lamp bezel the proceeding for this lamp is terminated (07). Of course, the head lamp bezel has always to be in the correct, aligned position to the fender. 
Now the head lamp assembly is finally where it should be (08).  -- SERGE –

N.B.  Depending on the front-angle when taking near pictures, the lamps seems somewhat uncentered.  

 



Edited by sermey 2012-07-17 3:17 AM




(01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg)



(02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg)



(03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg)



(04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg)



(05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg)



(06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg)



(07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg)



(08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg (129KB - 302 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg (129KB - 268 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg (126KB - 293 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg (129KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg (94KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg (106KB - 287 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg (114KB - 291 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg (144KB - 280 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-23 11:19 AM (#331235 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1042
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Front Seats: The seat and the backrest cannot be adjusted. They have a fixed angle, as it was on all former American cars I owned. I found always the backrest a little bit too steep and uncomfortable (1). Thus, the first modification I used to do was to increase the angle between seat and backrest.
First remove backseat for easier handling. On the swivel seat, just rasp on each side near the both hinges, where the backrest is stopped, about 4.5mm deep (2). In back position the seat should fit on both sides (3). The angle then will increase from about 97deg to 103deg (90 + 13) (4).
Now, simply by a minor “surgical operation”, sitting in the car feels more relaxing and comfortable (5).  - SERGE -    

To know: The 6-way seat adjuster tilts the entire seat.



Edited by sermey 2012-07-23 2:26 PM




(1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg)



(2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg)



(3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg)



(4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg)



(5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg (121KB - 261 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg (93KB - 289 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg (92KB - 289 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg (127KB - 284 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg (134KB - 280 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-23 3:52 PM (#331283 - in reply to #216878)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1042
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Location: SWITZERLAND
Black Painted Items 2: The black color spray I used for my items (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...), my reserve has now exhaust and couldn’t get anymore. This was the best black spray I ever used. It needed many contacts with manufacturers and suppliers to find an equivalent. And now I have found the identical one, from another supplier, in a new wrapping. It has the same fast-drying solvent, as well exactly the same satin-matt tint. All my comparative tests showed identical results.
Here how they call it newly (marketing!): Rust Stop 4 in 1, Rust protecting paint, deep black, satin mat, RAL9005, and the products description, as printed:
Active rust protection by effective 4-in-1 high-solid coating system:
1. Primer. 2. Rust protection. 3. Colour. 4. Sealing. Fast-drying and high coverage. Excellent adhesion on nearly all surfaces, even directly on rust. Liquid corrosion inhibitor. Brand: Dupli-Color (868320). In Switzerland available in LANDI (03487).

 





(New Black Spray Satin.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments New Black Spray Satin.jpg (130KB - 281 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-26 7:24 AM (#331710 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Dual Rear Antenna Connection: At the end of the fifties in cars mostly radios for long waves (LF: 148.5kHz – 283.5kHz, 2000m - 1058m) and medium waves (MF: 520kHz – 1620kHz, 576m -185m ), with a bandwidth of 9kHz have been usual. For these radios, the option of dual rear antennas have been offered (1). Later, with radios for very short waves (VHF: 1m – 10m, UHF: 10cm – 1m), the dual rear antennas disappeared, due to interference and as result fading. On FWL-cars the dual rear antennas have a distance of 154.5cm (to relate with the RF wave length). They are parallel-connected with a coupler. The original has wrapped antenna cable (2). The repro needs a plugged cable extension (3). The so coupled dual antennas then will work without problems when connected to an original MF-radio. For best reception, this radio should be optimized in sensitivity by adjusting the capacitor trimmer near the antenna input (4) (5).
To a modern radio only one of these antennas should be connected, the second antenna, as stated, to the original MF- radio, or when removed or not working, just left unconnected.
My car has two radio receivers: the original radio type 857, (MF range “5 – 16”) located in the center of the dashboard (6), the loudspeaker as well on top center dashboard (*). The other multi-band stereo receiver with musicassette player and remote controle is hidden in the glove box. (7), the 6 loudspeakers are on both front bottom sides and on the rear.
 Accordingly there are two separate antenna cables from the dual antennas, both along the right side under the sill plate to the radios. The rear left antenna leads to the original radio, the line here  is longer and less loss-sensitive at lower RF-signals, the rear right antenna goes to the modern radio needing a shorter cable, with low capacity as used today.
Now, both radios work independently, even simultaneously, without any interference and fading (8).  – SERGE –    

(*) Details about the radio: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...

 



Edited by sermey 2012-07-26 7:58 AM




(1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg)



(2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)



(3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)



(4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg)



(5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg)



(6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg)



(7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg)



(8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg (90KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (74KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (59KB - 314 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg (91KB - 287 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg (80KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg (119KB - 286 downloads)
Attachments 7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg (106KB - 287 downloads)
Attachments 8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg (92KB - 270 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2012-07-26 4:24 PM (#331763 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Again, thanks' Serge for good tips and tricks - I will copy the swivel seat backrest modification. You are totally right, the angle is too step OEM and full tilt does not give what a driver would like to have...
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1959 Belvedere Conv
Posted 2012-07-26 11:42 PM (#331814 - in reply to #331763)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Serge, I agree with Sven (Wizard) that is a great fix on the seats for a more comfortable sitting position with that modification to the stop area. I know you changed the rear seats too for a better angle of comfort but I will keep that angle as factory.

I also need to reverse my Chrome seat hinge screws, I have the slotted end inside and the clear rivet part out. I thought it looked better that way.

The seat pivot works fine but small details like that do count.

Edited by 1959 Belvedere Conv 2012-07-26 11:43 PM
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sermey
Posted 2012-07-27 2:57 AM (#331834 - in reply to #331235)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Front Seats 2: For those who want this modification to be reversible, here I did the seatback angle adjustable, to a fixed angle:
Cut on both sides of the lower seat hinge in the upper end a thread of M6 and insert a headless Allen screw of 10mm length (6).
Now the modified seatback angle (7) can be re-set to its original position (8) by compensating the rasped 4.5mm with the screw. Or you can adjust the angle to a minor amount to your best comfort (9).  - SERGE -

N.B. As I like my fixed setting, these pictures are real-view mounted for illustration on PS.



Edited by sermey 2012-07-27 3:10 AM




(6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg)



(7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg)



(8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg)



(9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg (80KB - 267 downloads)
Attachments 7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg (102KB - 258 downloads)
Attachments 8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg (90KB - 231 downloads)
Attachments 9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg (123KB - 279 downloads)
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FIN ME
Posted 2012-08-02 10:57 AM (#332872 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Amazing stuff, Serge!

Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book!

Great photos...please keep them coming!


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sermey
Posted 2012-08-06 11:49 AM (#333469 - in reply to #332872)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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FIN ME - 2012-08-02 4:57 PM Amazing stuff, Serge! Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book! Great photos...please keep them coming! :)

Thanks for your kind comment, and to all the many people viewing this thread. Three hints to the photos: - 1. clean the item - 2. remove around all what not needed - 3. then at all if possible: NO flash to keep the deepness! - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2012-08-06 11:54 AM (#333470 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Fuel Alert Contact: In addition to: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=173&start=41
I sacrificed various samples of micro-switches because their body was not resistant to fuel (01). Then I applied a simple way to get a cursor controlled contact, to switch ON a LED before the fuel tank is empty.
I used a copper plated board (PCB) as used in electronics. Then separated the copper plating in two sectors by grinding, one side A soldering to the ground and fixing, the other side B leading to the LED by a separate (black) wire. The hand-made cursor is soldered to the turning axis of the variable resistor (02). It needs an additional pad, very well sealed to the fuel (3). Inside, the wire is soldered (4). Just before the fuel tank is empty, the cursor grounds the LED to switch it ON. The other pad of the LED is connected to +5V (regulator), over a resistor of 180 – 470Ohm to fix the brightness.

Now, when the LED goes on, I read the odometer and know exactly how far the remaining fuel will last, independent of the vague fuel gauge reading (05). For today cars nothing exceptional, but all the more on a fifties car.  – SERGE -

N.B. The elegant solution is using a differetial OPAMP, no extra wires, but same variable resistor. Finally I was restoring a car, not again designing an electronic device.



Edited by sermey 2012-08-07 1:48 AM




(01 - Micro-Switch.jpg)



(02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg)



(03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg)



(04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg)



(05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg)



(06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 - Micro-Switch.jpg (100KB - 300 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg (67KB - 303 downloads)
Attachments 03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg (108KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments 04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg (101KB - 288 downloads)
Attachments 05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg (99KB - 265 downloads)
Attachments 06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg (130KB - 270 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-08-07 9:15 AM (#333604 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Wider tires: Modern wider tires transform a car visually to a more powerful vehicle. This is obvious when comparing two tire types next to each other on the similar FWL-Car: Original Dodge Diagonal Type, and replacement Radial Type (01). This and the much better stability on the street, mainly in curves and when braking, brought me to do this switch. First, shortly abstract considerations on dimensions:
_________________________________________________________________________________________
Diagonal Type 225/75/14”
DW = 355.6mm : [Diameter of Wheel (DW)14": 14 x 25.4mm= 355.6mm (1" = 25.4mm)]
HT = 168.75mm :[Height of the Tire (HT): 225mm x 75% = 168.75mm]
OD = 693.1mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): DW + (2 x HT) = 355.6mm + 337.5mm = 693.1mm (or 27.3")]
CC = 2176mm : [Circumference (CC): OD x 3.14 (pi) = 693.1mm x 3.14 = 2176.334 mm (or 85.7")]

Radial Type 235/70/15”
DW = 381mm : [Diameter of the Wheel (DW)15": DW = 15 x 25.4mm= 381mm]
HT = 164.5mm : [Height of the Tire (HT): HT = 235mm x 70% = 164.5mm]
OD = 710mm : [Overall Diameter (OD): OD = DW + (2 x HT) = 381mm + 329mm = 710mm (or 27.9")]
Overall Diameter measured OD = 708mm – I wonder how accurate (02).
CC = 2229.4mm : [Circumference (CC): CC = OD x 3.14 (pi) = 710mm x 3.14 = 2229.4 mm (or 87.7")]
____________________________________________________________________________________________
Differences and effects on car:
The Circumference CC (235/70/15") is 2.4% longer than the CC (225/70/14"). At same speedometer reading, now the car will run 2.4% faster. This difference is just tolerable without modifying the speedometer. Or otherwise: the speedometer will show 2.4% less at same speed. To calibrate the speedometer when needed, the return-spring in the speedometer should be lowered by lengthen, as calibrating mechanical watches.
The Overall Diameter OD (235/70/15") is 16.9mm bigger, thus the car will stay about this half amount higher. For the front this can be compensated by adjusting the torsion bars, and for the rear by setting down the high jackers.
The Wheel Distance with tires 8.00 x 14” is factory given by 60.9” (03) or 1546.8mm, on my car with the wider tires it is 1624mm, about 77mm more.
There is a noticeable difference in the Road Contact when measured: the Diagonal Type 125mm (04), and the Radial Type 175mm (05). This is 40% more! Highlighted the rear left tire on the street (06), or another front view (07).
Wider tires offer more security and power-feeling in one step. Just keep the original hubcaps on the car, and keep as well in reserve the original wheels. – SERGE –  


P.S. (01) Partly Picture: Quentin Willson “Classic American Cars”



Edited by sermey 2012-08-07 9:37 AM




(01 - Comparison Front View.jpg)



(02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg)



(03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg)



(04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg)



(05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg)



(06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg)



(07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Comparison Front View.jpg (160KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg (104KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments 03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg (90KB - 294 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg (130KB - 252 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg (111KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg (114KB - 288 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg (118KB - 271 downloads)
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2012-08-07 10:07 PM (#333728 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Thanks for sharing all the great tips, I will apply many to my car (as soon as I get one). Your car is awesome!
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Windsor59
Posted 2012-08-08 2:50 AM (#333746 - in reply to #333728)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Hi sermey
Your are Good to ut better,
I dont like this, maby you can Do this better: Only one stop when you open the door
At fl Cars. I Will have two stop. Some times at parking you have not lots off space, and only can oppend
The door litle.
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sermey
Posted 2012-08-08 2:50 AM (#333747 - in reply to #333728)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Leadfoot1000 - 2012-08-08 4:07 AM Thanks for sharing all the great tips, I will apply many to my car (as soon as I get one). Your car is awesome!

Thank you and as new member welcome on this site.

What you see here is mostly “cold coffee”, because the restoration was completed about 15 years ago. At this time I had no digital camera. Now, not so easy to comment and particular to show “before – after”. Sometimes I must use pictures of other cars as reference.  - SERGE - 



Edited by sermey 2012-08-08 2:29 PM
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sermey
Posted 2012-08-08 3:38 PM (#333803 - in reply to #333604)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Wide tires: Supplement

Edited by sermey 2012-08-08 3:40 PM




(Coker Tire Radial Cross Reference.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Coker Tire Radial Cross Reference.jpg (169KB - 425 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-08-10 7:02 AM (#334028 - in reply to #333746)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Windsor59 - 2012-08-08 8:50 AM Hi sermey  Only one stop when you open the door At fl Cars. I Will have two stop.  . . .

A useful option that make sense. I will have a look at. - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2012-08-14 8:04 PM (#334633 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1042
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Filling Fine Scripts: For fine letters, standard paints will sometimes “over-layer” when filling. For this purpose, the thinnest paint I found was the Permanent Refill Ink (01), used for water resistant marker felt pens. It is very fast-drying and has a high coverage.
Apply with an ultra fine brush or needle (*), and when dried, remove the over-paint simply by rubbing with the finger or a school rubber. If too resistive use a fine cloth, moistened with solvent without pressing.
Now, the newly filled fine scripts have got a much higher contrast and thus become significantly better readable.  – SERGE -     

(*) A felt pen is not suitable for a homogeneous coating on metal.



Edited by sermey 2012-08-14 8:30 PM




(01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg)



(02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg)



(03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg (97KB - 329 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg (108KB - 325 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg (61KB - 344 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-01 3:42 AM (#337112 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Leaking Valve Covers: At the first glance it seemed to be an easy thing to mount the valve covers without any leaking  .  .  .  .  .  but finally I got it.
First all contact surfaces of the valve cover have to be properly mated all around. Often, around the bolt  holes the cover is deformed due to a previous too strong tightening.
For a sure sealing, Silicon Gasket (as already presented earlier) is applied just on the inner edges of the valve cover (1). Remember: this is not glue for fixing and will not harden. It remains soft (20 shore) and allows an easy removal of the cover. Any other similar Silicon can be used, but it must be resistant to temperatures in the range of -40 to +180deg. Before tightening, when visible the gasket then can be pushed under the cover (2).
To avoid local high pressing and a deformation around the head of the bolt, special hold-down brackets are being used. These give two additional extended hold-down points (3). The big washer improves the local stability around the bolt holes, shorten virtually the bolt for the cap nut and hide the eccentric bore.

Polished stainless cap nuts (4) underline the overall harmonic style of the engine compartment (5).  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2012-09-01 3:03 PM




(1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg)



(2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg)



(3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg)



(4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg)



(5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg (72KB - 398 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg (93KB - 345 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg (120KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg (117KB - 321 downloads)
Attachments 5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg (136KB - 341 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-01 1:27 PM (#337134 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Carpets and Floor Mats 1: With my 1959 Dodge Convertible I got white Knight Rubber Mats I never saw elsewhere. I found these exceptional and thus present them here. The Side Emblem ot the front mat seems to be equal to the Center Emblem.

Since restored, I used other Carpets and Floor Mats in my car, and will thread them in a next part to come.  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2012-09-02 4:27 AM




(01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg)



(02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg)



(03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg)



(04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg (150KB - 441 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg (122KB - 296 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg (94KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg (99KB - 325 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-04 8:31 AM (#337454 - in reply to #337134)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Carpets and Floor Mats 2: On the market a wide range of said "Original Floor Mats" are offered. There are very nice ones and available at a reasonable price. Others, described as “original” size doesn’t fit at all.
I set my personal standards on quality, material, color and finish, mainly based on practical considerations. Furthermore, on a Convertible some specs on carpets have higher weighting, being more exposed than on a Sedan.
Here my arguments:
1. The quality. There are two basic carpet versions being used: the "loop pile" and the "cut pile" (05). Practical arguments brought me to use exclusively "cut pile" carpet.(06):
Cleaning a carpet from any dirt, the "loop pile" prevents to remove it, the dirt will even enter more in the carpet. Furthermore, hanging on a loop, the carpet may be damaged all along a line.
Other the "cut pile": when brushing, the slanted pile supports to take out the dirt easily. It is invisible, when added two parts together, or when inserted a round stamped sample in damaged spots.
Walking on a good quality cut pile floor is noticeable much more comfortable, and it has a better absorbance of sound and noise.
2. The material. In a car, exposed to humidity and oil, a full synthetic material is a must. It doesn't rot, thus offer a longer lifetime, and is much more resistive to aggressive cleanser.
3. The color. It should match to the interior of the car, preferably unicolored not visually interfering to other items. Unicolor generally looks more precious, is calmative, but as well more delicate when not clean.
4. The finish: Solid and wear resistant base enabling to glue when needed, no under foam-coating, all around bordered to prevent fringing.
On my Convertible, at the time not finding floor insertions or original mats, all was custom made with loop pile carpets, black synthetic, solid tissue base and vinyl-bordered all around (07) (08).
Instead of bordering, on straight edging a plastic profiles as used to fix papers can be applied as protection (09). The same profile I used inside of my door sills (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=184&start=13). If needed for attaching, rubber or plastic items can be inserted as shown (10).
(will be continued)




(05 - Basics Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg)



(06 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg)



(07 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Upper Side bordered.jpg)



(08 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Under Side bordered.jpg)



(09 - Alternative bordering with a Profile.jpg)



(10 - Rubber for attaching.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 05 - Basics Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg (96KB - 326 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg (154KB - 330 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Upper Side bordered.jpg (130KB - 341 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Under Side bordered.jpg (132KB - 309 downloads)
Attachments 09 - Alternative bordering with a Profile.jpg (109KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments 10 - Rubber for attaching.jpg (109KB - 332 downloads)
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mogge65
Posted 2012-09-04 9:22 PM (#337545 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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This thread is really outstanding, just love to read an see what he´s up to! Sermey "The Magic Man"
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2012-09-08 1:01 AM (#337959 - in reply to #161298)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



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sermey - 2009-02-01 4:44 AM

15” Wheels and Tires: I always found, 14” Wheels on my Car are relatively too small and look poor in Proportion to the Body and its Wheelhouse. Must say, this was the Style at this time.

The other Point, bigger and wider Tires have much better Adhesion on the Street, the 235/70/15 Radial Tires about +25% in Comparison to the Original 14” Diagonal ones. This improvement is necessarily needed for a full Advantage of Disk Brakes. Thus, I decided in favor of 15” Wheels and the corresponding WWW Tires, still keeping the Original 14” Wheel Set including the Spinner Hubcaps. In order to keep the Original Appearance, the Original HubCaps should fit to the 15” Rims.

I bought 15” decorative stainless Rings, cut out the Border around, and soldered it inside the Wheel Cover. For a stronger Fixing on the rechromed Wheels I increased the Clamp Pression by putting a soft round PVC Profile under the Clamps.

Now, the Hubcaps fit perfectly to the 15” Rims, their Edges are even protected from Curbstones due to the inner Position, and the Air Valve is perfectly centered as well. According my personal feeling, this Wheel Size gives the Car its settled Proportions. Another improvement of the Outfit, for the Drivers Security, and as an additional Benefit the Wheel Cover Edge Protection.

(can see, my HubCaps are not perfect, but polished and with the sticked Black they look as)



Hi Sermey, I plan to get 235-70/15's for my car also. Can you please tell me what's the width of the white walls on your tires? Your choice of white walls provides the same look I'm trying to achieve. By the way, I bought a car a few weeks ago if you want to see it under Member's Rides title "My 57 New Yorker." Steve
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-08 7:16 AM (#337971 - in reply to #337959)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Leadfoot1000 - 2012-09-08 7:01 AM
sermey - 2009-02-01 4:44 AM . . . .  what's the width of the white walls on your tires?  Steve

Measured on the car:   70.5mm = 2.775"

According the Manufacturer Coker Tire:   Radial P235/70R15, WW 2n3/4 (see attached Specs 2012)    - SERGE -
 



Edited by sermey 2012-09-08 7:25 AM




(1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.jpg (231KB - 316 downloads)
Attachments 1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.pdf (148KB - 465 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-08 12:13 PM (#338017 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Fan Shroud: My car didn’t had a Fan Shroud (01). On a car meeting I purchased a Chrome Metal Fan Shroud, thinking this would give the engine compartment a more valuated look, will prevent parts or screws falling on the propeller when working at idling, and as protection from casually touch inside. (old Pic 02). So far so good.
In hot summer, at longer stops and idling I encountered critical heating situations, the engine room got quite hot. I was reflecting: without a shroud, the fan blows not only axial, but as well partially radial as a centrifugal fan. My Metal Shroud, covering only 65% of the propeller, now caused in idle more air to be centrifuged downward instead towards the engine. -> Just check it!
I took a high temperature Heat Protective Mat (03), put this over a panel to seal airtight underneath the fan and front (04). As result, the heating was noticeable reduced. Then I purchased two Chrome Metal Shrouds, the longest available (170mm), one for the upper, the other one for the lower side of the fan. They had to be exactly marked for a partly cut-out to fit all around (05). Needed cut-outs for: the water hose (06), the generator belt (07), the steering pump, the transmission oil lines (08), and a bending on the fuel pump side (09). All these cuts were previously simulated with a cardboard sample. Then the prepared two halves (to see lower Shroud) (10) (11) could be mounted very easy, without disassembling anything, and fixed with long bolts through the radiator.
The distance of the shroud to the propeller, here should be taken in consideration the movement of the engine on bad streets. The short Metal Shroud was initially mounted too near, as signs of contacts can be seen on the comparison (12).

Now this Chrome Metal Shroud makes multiple sense: protection, outfit and an improved cooling at longer stop (13).   - SERGE -   

Comment: If you find a standard shroud fitting the radiator you will save some handiwork, but will have to disassemble some items!



Edited by sermey 2012-09-08 12:35 PM




(01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg)



(02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg)



(03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg)



(04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg)



(05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg)



(06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg)



(07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg)



(08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg)



(09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg)



(10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg)



(11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg)



(12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg)



(13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg (153KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments 02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg (137KB - 345 downloads)
Attachments 03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg (116KB - 335 downloads)
Attachments 04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg (100KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments 05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg (94KB - 295 downloads)
Attachments 06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg (112KB - 326 downloads)
Attachments 07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg (82KB - 338 downloads)
Attachments 08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg (138KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments 09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg (114KB - 350 downloads)
Attachments 10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg (108KB - 361 downloads)
Attachments 11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg (114KB - 321 downloads)
Attachments 12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg (101KB - 324 downloads)
Attachments 13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg (133KB - 326 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2012-09-09 10:58 AM (#338129 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1042
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Location: SWITZERLAND
Trunk Edge: The lower trunk edge is most exposed to damage when loading items not carefully. The paint is most badly affected. In addition, this edge is even not exactly straight.
A profile in plastic or rubber, preferably in the cars color, could eliminate this situation. I found a plastic channel used in electric installations, in white as the car (1). The cover fits to the trunk edge as required (2). The trunk seal keep it in the right position (3) ( ! the carpet is black and ends up with the profile). Some rubber profiles or a small slotted hose would work as well.

Now, the trunk edge is protected, straight, no color damages anymore, all as it should always be (4).  – SERGE -      




(1 - White Profile.jpg)



(2 - Applied White Protective Profile.jpg)



(3 - Protective Profile fixed behind Trunk Seal.jpg)



(4 - Protected Trunk Edge - Top View.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 1 - White Profile.jpg (68KB - 349 downloads)
Attachments 2 - Applied White Protective Profile.jpg (139KB - 377 downloads)
Attachments 3 - Protective Profile fixed behind Trunk Seal.jpg (119KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments 4 - Protected Trunk Edge - Top View.jpg (98KB - 334 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2014-05-11 8:03 AM (#440274 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1042
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Emblem on Ash Tray: As already shown earlier in this thread, I had fixed the small Knight Head (01) on the ash tray. It is the same as already on the steering wheel. Looking a little bit “lost”, I replaced it now by the more sophisticated emblem

used on the Glove Box of the 1959 Coronet (02-03). If nicer to put there an emblem, particulary this new one depends on each personal taste (04-05).

Anyway, as lover of emblems I like it. Another eye-catcher!   - SERGE -   :laugh: 


 



Edited by sermey 2014-05-11 8:15 AM




(01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg)



(02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg)



(03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg)



(04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg)



(05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg (63KB - 297 downloads)
Attachments 02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg (95KB - 265 downloads)
Attachments 03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg (63KB - 274 downloads)
Attachments 04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg (88KB - 278 downloads)
Attachments 05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg (119KB - 278 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2014-05-16 12:28 PM (#441072 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1042
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Bright Back Light: When replacing the bulbs by LEDs for backlight, there are various LED lamps available that fit to the socket 1156 BA (01). Here not shown all. The standard replacement LEDs shines more white then brighter. One solution for a brighter light is to use Super Bright LEDs, as the power dissipation and therefore the heating effect remains small. A next step brighter is to use instead of the 1156 BA single lamp the High Power 1157 BA dual Lamp (Turn Signal / Brake), when bridging the two connectors, and adapting one fixing pin to fit to the single contact socket (02). The difference between standard bulb and Power LED manifests in color and an impressive brightness (03).

Now, turning backwards at night, the street is sufficient illuminated, in respect to ground and in distance (04). – SERGE -

 



Edited by sermey 2014-05-16 12:34 PM




(01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg)



(02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg)



(03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg)



(04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg (47KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments 02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg (68KB - 251 downloads)
Attachments 03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg (73KB - 272 downloads)
Attachments 04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg (80KB - 259 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2014-05-16 2:25 PM (#441084 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 12155
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Nice idea Serge, thanks' for sharing!
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sermey
Posted 2014-05-23 3:44 PM (#442055 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Posts: 1042
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The Last Emblem: Many years ago I found a nice ForwardLook Emblem with a Dodge Script. Because I liked I purchased, even I had never seen this one on a 1959 Dodge. It got a nice place under the left Front Seat (01). Since then I was looking for a similar Emblem for the right side, but without the Dodge Script - a ForwardLook Emblem should never be mounted Backward.

Now I found what I was looking for a long time (02). It has got his reserved place, looking happily forward as his brother on the left side (03). Another hidden eye-catcher (04).

Was this the last emblem to be mounted on my 1959 Dodge Convertible?  - SERGE - 





(01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg)



(02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg)



(03 Emblem RH -25.jpg)



(04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg (128KB - 259 downloads)
Attachments 02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg (61KB - 282 downloads)
Attachments 03 Emblem RH -25.jpg (118KB - 250 downloads)
Attachments 04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg (118KB - 290 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2014-05-27 4:22 PM (#442514 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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That looks really like a nice emblem Serge - fact I don't recall ever seeing such a nicely shaped one?! Is there a story behind??
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FIN ME
Posted 2014-06-08 7:53 AM (#444193 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

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Looks great, Serge!

Love your work. You are part mechanic, part artist!

Astounding attention to detail!


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sermey
Posted 2015-04-06 1:27 PM (#474519 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1042
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Flashing LEDs: Brighter light on directional and rear lamps can be achieved when using LEDs of the new generation (01). They about 10% current consumption then standard bulbs. With this low current the common thermostatic operated flasher (02) will not work anymore. Load resistors of about 6 Ohm/20Watt (03) are offered to connect in parallel to each replaced bulb. To keep it low-cost, one resistor can be connected directly at the output of the flasher and will then be parallel to any LEDs in flashing mode. With the load resistor the additional “advantage” of a lower current consumption is lost, but it works.

Using an electronic controlled flasher (astable multivibrator) with relais (04), the flash frequency will be independent of the loading. It is defined by the time-constant, and can be modified by the value of a capacitor or resistor (05).

Simpler is to use an adjustable electronic flasher (06), The pin configuration enables to replace directly the standard flasher. It needs an additional lead to ground. Now the flashing frequency can be modified manually in a wide range by turning the axis of the potentiometer, and independent of load and voltage it remains stable.

The simplest and lowest cost solution at all is to keep all the bulbs connected, but outside the housing (in a thermo- protected and dimmed space), and insert the LED lamps in parallel. The total current will increase about 10% and as well the flashing frequency.

The result with Power LEDs is a Super Bright Rear Light, when flashing and at stop. With the camera the brightest red becomes yellow (07)!

To get a warmer and homogenous white light I covered the front LEDs with a Dessert Cap  (08), only possible because the LED doesn’t heat.

With parking LEDs ON, now the car can keep the battery charge up to one week, at super bright light!  - SERGE -  :laugh:





(01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg)



(02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg)



(03 Load Resistors.jpg)



(04 Electronic Flasher.jpg)



(05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg)



(06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg)



(07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg)



(08 Dessert Cap.jpg)



(09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg (74KB - 273 downloads)
Attachments 02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 257 downloads)
Attachments 03 Load Resistors.jpg (76KB - 236 downloads)
Attachments 04 Electronic Flasher.jpg (72KB - 244 downloads)
Attachments 05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg (93KB - 236 downloads)
Attachments 06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg (96KB - 252 downloads)
Attachments 08 Dessert Cap.jpg (51KB - 263 downloads)
Attachments 09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg (80KB - 234 downloads)
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ttotired
Posted 2015-04-06 6:42 PM (#474543 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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Very good

Always enjoy reading this thread (been a long time since something new)

I will add though that those "scotch locks" (red wire taps) belong in the bin, nothing but electrical gremlin makers especially on anything that draws a current

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sermey
Posted 2015-04-07 11:43 AM (#474633 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1042
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dash Pad 1: When I got my Dodge, the dash pad was hard, dried and partly broken. There was no other way then to remove it (01). After cleaning the surface I used the same black vinyl to coat it as for the door panels (02). Applying on both sides enough Contact Glue, as for the arm rests (see earlier post), the coating got softer, could then be stretched and pulled around the edges. Fixed with masking tape I had to wait one week. The instruments metallic insert (03) then mounted over when black painted. The right side rounding was simulated by a coated metal (04).The result was impressive, as shown in 06 – 08. There was just one negative aspect: the surface was not padded and there were no ribbers.

Looking at the old brochure the ribbing is also missing (09), but I think this was a preliminary draft. The illustration in the parts book, the dash pad shows ribbes (10 black), as can be seen on cars with the original pad (11 blue, for Ron).

Today the Swedish company RD Autoline (Tony) reproduces this one and many other dash pads in a stunning originality and at high quality standard. What I saw in documentations is a high skilled artwork.

I ordered one for my 1959 Dodge Convertible and will later report the proceeding in mounting it, in: Dash Pad 2.  - SERGE -





(01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg)



(02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg)



(03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg)



(04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg)



(05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg)



(06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg)



(07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg)



(08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg)



(09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg)



(10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg (91KB - 240 downloads)
Attachments 02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg (112KB - 265 downloads)
Attachments 03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg (97KB - 235 downloads)
Attachments 04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg (96KB - 265 downloads)
Attachments 05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg (134KB - 270 downloads)
Attachments 06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg (124KB - 249 downloads)
Attachments 07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg (112KB - 243 downloads)
Attachments 08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg (79KB - 220 downloads)
Attachments 09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg (53KB - 259 downloads)
Attachments 10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg (93KB - 240 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2015-04-08 11:49 AM (#474748 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1042
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Weak Hood Spring: When I got my Dodge, the hood had to be kept up with a wooden bar because of weakened springs. Thus I had first to reproduce stronger springs, and found a manufacturer. For an incredible price of CHF 80.00 he produced for me (1994), according the sample I sent him, 3 different pairs of springs, so I could test them on the car (01) and make the choice. What you see are the remaining 2 new pairs.

I kept the pair of spring that just hold up the hood and painted them in white as the car (02). Since then the hood is up as it should. - SERGE – 

 



Edited by sermey 2015-04-08 12:05 PM




(01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg)



(02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments 01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg (132KB - 220 downloads)
Attachments 02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg (77KB - 278 downloads)
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