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Power Window Connectors:For a good function of the power windows, the supply current should flow with minimum resistance, to assure a fast lifting: adequate wire diameter, soldered and cleaned connectors. A few pictures illustrates how this can be done. It is sufficient to label only the +12V wire (black marked), for all other wires can easily be changed, thanks the external additional (soldered) crimp-connectors (blue) in pic 07. – SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2012-06-20 7:58 AM
(01 - Single connector soldered.jpg)
(02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg)
(03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg)
(04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg)
(05 - Connectors mounted.jpg)
(06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg)
(07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg)
01 - Single connector soldered.jpg (101KB - 316 downloads)
02 - Multiple connectors soldered .jpg (103KB - 274 downloads)
03 - Single connector heat-shrinked tube.jpg (122KB - 320 downloads)
04 - All Connectors with heat-shrinked tubes.jpg (135KB - 267 downloads)
05 - Connectors mounted.jpg (98KB - 268 downloads)
06 - All Connector Parts - 4 Windows.jpg (169KB - 464 downloads)
07 - Assembled power window switch.jpg (113KB - 284 downloads)
Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (3)5. The gasket: After the body of the mirror has been assembled and connected to the control line, it can be mounted on the fender, still without the mirror-glass. Although I got gaskets, I preferred to use my system as described earlier here. This gasket can be inserted without removing the mirror and the three control wires, and easy replaced at any time. It is thick enough not to leave impressions in the paint, and fits as custom-made. This is a Silicon-Rubber profile, as I used as well for the dual rear antennas, cut in the correct length (circonference of the stand). The ends are glued together to a fixed ring (15). Unscrew the mirror, so as the profile can be inserted and pushed-in (16). When the gasket fits all around, then tighten the screws (17).
6. The wire attachment: The described operations may be very usefull for those who have to repair their remote mirror. First of all, the three wires already fixed to the glass now must be inserted through the shell. To get the correct length the glass has to be fixed fully inside the body, to assure a sufficient tension to hold the mirror-glass at the end (18).Due to the nickel-chrome alloy, the wire cannot be soft soldered. For a solid attachment crimping sleeves are needed, as is original. For this purpose I used standard rivets, D 4mm, L 5.5mm (19). Before removing the nail, the diameter of the rivets head should be reduced from 7.5mm to 6.5mm in order to fit to the control unit (20). The end of the flexible control wire is bent to be better fixed when crimped, using a standard AMP tool (21). Take care to correct diameter for crimping, or the rivet may not fit anymore to the control unit (22)! Now the wires can easily be attached (23). To know: the rivets cannot be removed after crimping. Can cut away, must restart with shortened shell and wire (-6mm).
On the passenger side, these operations can be done outside the car, for the control wires are long enough to pass the small side window (24).(wiil be continued)
Edited by sermey 2012-06-21 12:28 PM
(15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg)
(16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg)
(17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg)
(18 - Fixing the glass.jpg)
(19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg)
(20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg)
(21 - Crimping the wire.jpg)
(22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg)
(23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg)
(24 - All control wires attached.jpg)
15 - Glueing the gasket profile to a ring.jpg (81KB - 312 downloads)
16 - Pushing the gasket under the mirror stands .jpg (131KB - 279 downloads)
17 - Mirror gasket fits all around.jpg (77KB - 287 downloads)
18 - Fixing the glass.jpg (115KB - 288 downloads)
19 - Preparing the rivets.jpg (111KB - 297 downloads)
20 - Reducing the rivets head diameter.jpg (101KB - 304 downloads)
21 - Crimping the wire.jpg (113KB - 268 downloads)
22 - Control wire ready for attach.jpg (73KB - 360 downloads)
23 - Wire attached to the control unit.jpg (110KB - 289 downloads)
24 - All control wires attached.jpg (92KB - 336 downloads)
wizard - 2012-06-18 9:46 PM I really like the idea with the sanding disk - smart one! Did you send the mirrors to a chrome shop for to de-chrome them? Also the new wires is interesting!!
Here how as I did all parts to be rechromed on my car:1. Disassemble all items to single parts
2. Bring them to the galvanic shop for remove chrome and nickel. Old copper will partly be removed due to strongness of nickel-removal.3. Restore items geometry by punching, grinding, . . . and pre-polish to get the control of the surfaces.
4. Bring them again to the galvanic-shop for copper-plating. Needs enough copper for last restoration.5. Fine-grinding and polish the item (01). The rechromed part will exactly be shiny as it has been polished.
6. Bring to the galvanic shop for nickel-plate and chrome-plate. Looks as in 5., but now in "blue" chrome (02).
When nice polished and rechromed, the mirror-effect should be sharp as from a glass-mirror (unfortunately my rugh ceiling is reflected, but some differences on the the Pic are apparent). If you can polish the items by yourself, you alone decide how nice the items will become.To know: from polishing you will get more black than from grease.
Edited by sermey 2012-06-25 3:24 PM
(01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg)
(02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg)
01 - Copper fine grinded - copper polished.jpg (149KB - 277 downloads)
02 - 1961 NOS mirror - 1959 Restored mirror.jpg (181KB - 449 downloads)
|Adjustment of the flasher: Here the proceeding, when the directional lamps flashes too fast. It is checked on a spare part I had, a bigger flasher, but the principle remains identical. This one flashed too fast, connected to my car. |
First remove the housing by grinding around till the lip-ring detache (01). Then bent the contact with a pince up (here I did it by hand), to increase the distance at opened contacts for a slower flashing. It must be the contact without bi-metal (zoomed), just about 0.1mm (02), must be checked. Finally fix back the metal housing using instant glue inside around (03).
Can let the ignition and the blinking ON. just connect and disconnect the opened flasher for better handling, and put back for test. Don't hold at the contacts, only the socket!
Edited by sermey 2012-06-26 3:52 AM
(01 - Opened flasher.jpg)
(02 - Contact to adjust.jpg)
(03 - Instant glued metal housing.jpg)
01 - Opened flasher.jpg (93KB - 291 downloads)
02 - Contact to adjust.jpg (102KB - 277 downloads)
03 - Instant glued metal housing.jpg (87KB - 268 downloads)
Location: Springville, CA
|You can buy decent electronic flashers for less than $15 or $20. Their flash rates are controlled electronically and are not dependent on load.|
56Fanatic - 2012-06-26 3:41 PM You can buy decent electronic flashers for less than $15 or $20. Their flash rates are controlled electronically and are not dependent on load.
This is a good advise, for I didn't know, unless it was to be expected. Do they sound when flashing as well?
Edited by sermey 2012-06-26 5:03 PM
Dual Remote Outside Rear View Mirrors: (4)7. The control unit: As my car didn’t was equipped with a remote mirror on the left fender I had to find out how and where to fix the control unit. Referring to pictures I built a bracket according the position where it should be. Later I found an instruments housing with the original bracket, included the delete plate (25). So I used the original one, as well the “MIRROR”-bezel (26). Other then original, the left hand control line behind the hinge now allows a straight and shorter connection. The right hand control unit was fixed with a chrome bezel, included with one mirror set, mounted exactly on the vertical under the left knob of the radio (27). This was the nearest available place, for other locations were already used. Here the control unit just not fit under the radio, the left lower corner of the housing has been slightly cut-out. The remote mirror on passenger side can now be adjusted by the driver, comfortable as the radio knob, while still keeping the rear view.
8. The final result. Due to the new Nylon covered multi strand stainless wire, the right side mirror with the much longer control line, is much slighter adjustable than the left side one. I will replace the old control wires as well. Finally I mounted the chrome bullets (28), fixed with M4 in the mirrors nut, as already described here: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&... A black rubber washer seals from entering water, and can be considered as an additional styling element (29). The two rear view mirrors, more sophisticated then the former ones, restored have now become: NT-NOS (= Nicer Than - New Old Stock). They underlines once more the exceptional art-work on forwardlook cars.Dual remote outside rear view mirrors, an additional exclusive feature on an outstanding 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible. – SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2012-06-30 4:33 PM
(25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg)
(26 - Left side mirror control.jpg)
(27 - Right side mirror control.jpg)
(28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg)
(29 - Mounted bullets.jpg)
(30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg)
25 - Left control bracket and delete plate.jpg (107KB - 293 downloads)
26 - Left side mirror control.jpg (135KB - 322 downloads)
27 - Right side mirror control.jpg (139KB - 298 downloads)
28 - M4 in nut - bullet ready.jpg (110KB - 344 downloads)
29 - Mounted bullets.jpg (145KB - 291 downloads)
30 - Restored rear view mirrors - NT-NOS.jpg (136KB - 323 downloads)
|Nice one Serge! Beautiful work! I too made a right hand remote controlled mirror, one of the first parts I made for our car. |
I had a much easier job as we have the other type of twin strut mirror and I just combined several parts and used 2 sets of OEM cables.
They were connected to form the long cables with adjusters in the middle for fine-tuning the adjustment properties.
I won't spoil your beautiful thread with pics of my un-restored mirror set-up on an un-painted car...
You have as well a nice and intelligent approach, Wendy, my compliments! I will present a more easier way as those mentioned here: no need of 2 sets of OEM cables; the length of the wires also adjustables without needing to cut and re-crimp the rivets for the correct length: adjustment not in the middle of the cables, but at the end on the control unit. I will present this here as "Supplement" as soon I will have completed on my car and illustrate with pictures. - SERGE -
You have as well a nice and intelligent approach, Wendy, my compliments!
I will present a more easier way as those mentioned here: no need of 2 sets of OEM cables; the length of the wires also adjustables without needing to cut and re-crimp the rivets for the correct length: adjustment not in the middle of the cables, but at the end on the control unit. I will present this here as "Supplement" as soon I will have completed on my car and illustrate with pictures. - SERGE -
Head Lamp Bezel: When purchasing this item, the fixing clips are often rusty, broken or even missing (01). Before rechroming, they anyway have to be removed. Instead of these single metal clips, I used on each side two standard Nylon washers (D20 x d10.5 x t2mm) to fix the head lamp bezel. Metal washers are not flexible!
To Know: This Head Lamp Bezel is identical for the left and the right side. What you see here I did already 10 years ago, the Nylon washers have become a little bit yellow..
Edited by sermey 2012-07-05 3:54 PM
(01 - Missing Clips.jpg)
(02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg)
(03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg)
(04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg)
01 - Missing Clips.jpg (87KB - 328 downloads)
02 - Nylon Washer Grinded.jpg (133KB - 269 downloads)
03 - Mounted Nylon clips - Front Rear View.jpg (150KB - 304 downloads)
04 - Bezel Front view Mounted Nylon Clips.jpg (142KB - 287 downloads)
|Reminder: The solutions in this thread are NOT THE BEST ones. They show HOW I DID IT: logical, efficient and at all successfully approved on my car. - SERGE -|
Soft Front Styling: Supplement to http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&start=144
I found some missing pictures commented here. The cutting line has equal distance (78mm) to the end, for keeping the original angle (3a). In the shortened chrome bar, four screw threads M4 (not M3!) are cut (3b). On the other side, the four Allen stainless screws are then shortened as needed (3c). As usual, it looks nice and solid.
Edited by sermey 2012-07-07 6:46 AM
(3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg)
(3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg)
(3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg)
3a - Cutting Line at equal Distance.jpg (69KB - 304 downloads)
3b - Mounted End Panel - Rear View.jpg (143KB - 326 downloads)
3c - Mounted End Panel - Top View.jpg (113KB - 293 downloads)
Soft Front Styling 2:
The parking lights of the 1959 Dodge I find just a little bit too much in the background (01). View from side, especially on pictures, the collars around the lamp body doesn’t show as they should (02). Not much better from top (03). By simply moving this unit to front, including the chrome bar, this would make this styling more exposed.
Just remove the parking light assembly, put underneath washers or plates as distance, about 10 - 15mm at all according personal preference, the screws are long enough (04). Washers can be added and removed afterwards at any time. Then re-assemble the unit as well with the chrome bar mounted. My shortened chrome bars have anyway an additional bracket for fixing, thus before tightening it can be positioned, otherwise as well washers will be needed. The positioning of the chrome bars should be done carefully in order to keep the full harmony of the front. They should be aligned vertically (05) and horizontally according the bumpers inclination (06). After this small moving to front, the change can easy be seen at the mounted collars, or in direct comparison (07). Best effect is visible from inside (08) or exact from side position (09).
This soft front styling injects to a 1959 Dodge a decent “horny” appearance! - SERGE -
N.B. The red rust-protecting paint behind the body (04) is from the former owner. He used to paint all with, even no rusting surfaces as shown here.
Edited by sermey 2012-07-08 7:35 AM
(01 - Original Position.jpg)
(02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg)
(03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg)
(04 - Distances-washer.jpg)
(05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)
(06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg)
(07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg)
(08 - Moved - Right View.jpg)
(09 - Moved - Side View.jpg)
01 - Original Position.jpg (75KB - 263 downloads)
02 - Before Moving - Side View.jpg (97KB - 288 downloads)
03 - Before Moving - Top View.jpg (111KB - 299 downloads)
04 - Distances-washer.jpg (148KB - 305 downloads)
05 - Vertical Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (129KB - 285 downloads)
06 - Horizontal Alignment of the chrome bar.jpg (113KB - 282 downloads)
07 - Comparison Before - After.jpg (146KB - 305 downloads)
08 - Moved - Right View.jpg (124KB - 278 downloads)
09 - Moved - Side View.jpg (115KB - 302 downloads)
Head Lamp Assembly: The head lamps on my 1959 Dodge are un-centered (01), the glass-ring of one lamp is even nearly touching the head lamp bezel (02). There is no way provided to center them, they are factory “adjusted by design-engineering“. Here I show how I fixed it on the right head lamp. Same proceeding to apply for the other head lamps.
Edited by sermey 2012-07-17 3:17 AM
(01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg)
(02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg)
(03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg)
(04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg)
(05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg)
(06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg)
(07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg)
(08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg)
01 - Uncentered head lamp assembly.jpg (129KB - 300 downloads)
02 - Uncentered head lamp zoomed.jpg (129KB - 266 downloads)
03 - Uncentered removed head ligth bezel.jpg (126KB - 291 downloads)
04 - Moved riveting nuts - grinded aperture.jpg (129KB - 297 downloads)
05 - Easy inserting stainless Alen screw M5.jpg (94KB - 296 downloads)
06 - Head Lamp Ring polished.jpg (106KB - 285 downloads)
07 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly zoomed.jpg (114KB - 289 downloads)
08 - Centered Head Lamp Assembly.jpg (144KB - 278 downloads)
Front Seats: The seat and the backrest cannot be adjusted. They have a fixed angle, as it was on all former American cars I owned. I found always the backrest a little bit too steep and uncomfortable (1). Thus, the first modification I used to do was to increase the angle between seat and backrest.
To know: The 6-way seat adjuster tilts the entire seat.
Edited by sermey 2012-07-23 2:26 PM
(1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg)
(2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg)
(3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg)
(4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg)
(5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg)
1 - Front backseat before modification.jpg (121KB - 259 downloads)
2 - Front backseat rasped 4.5mm.jpg (93KB - 287 downloads)
3 - Front backseat in new position .jpg (92KB - 287 downloads)
4 - Final backseat angle 103deg.jpg (127KB - 282 downloads)
5 - Both front backseats modified.jpg (134KB - 278 downloads)
|Black Painted Items 2: The black color spray I used for my items (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...), my reserve has now exhaust and couldn’t get anymore. This was the best black spray I ever used. It needed many contacts with manufacturers and suppliers to find an equivalent. And now I have found the identical one, from another supplier, in a new wrapping. It has the same fast-drying solvent, as well exactly the same satin-matt tint. All my comparative tests showed identical results.|
Here how they call it newly (marketing!): Rust Stop 4 in 1, Rust protecting paint, deep black, satin mat, RAL9005, and the products description, as printed:
Active rust protection by effective 4-in-1 high-solid coating system:
1. Primer. 2. Rust protection. 3. Colour. 4. Sealing. Fast-drying and high coverage. Excellent adhesion on nearly all surfaces, even directly on rust. Liquid corrosion inhibitor. Brand: Dupli-Color (868320). In Switzerland available in LANDI (03487).
(New Black Spray Satin.jpg)
New Black Spray Satin.jpg (130KB - 279 downloads)
Dual Rear Antenna Connection: At the end of the fifties in cars mostly radios for long waves (LF: 148.5kHz – 283.5kHz, 2000m - 1058m) and medium waves (MF: 520kHz – 1620kHz, 576m -185m ), with a bandwidth of 9kHz have been usual. For these radios, the option of dual rear antennas have been offered (1). Later, with radios for very short waves (VHF: 1m – 10m, UHF: 10cm – 1m), the dual rear antennas disappeared, due to interference and as result fading. On FWL-cars the dual rear antennas have a distance of 154.5cm (to relate with the RF wave length). They are parallel-connected with a coupler. The original has wrapped antenna cable (2). The repro needs a plugged cable extension (3). The so coupled dual antennas then will work without problems when connected to an original MF-radio. For best reception, this radio should be optimized in sensitivity by adjusting the capacitor trimmer near the antenna input (4) (5).
(*) Details about the radio: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&...
Edited by sermey 2012-07-26 7:58 AM
(1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg)
(2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)
(3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg)
(4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg)
(5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg)
(6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg)
(7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg)
(8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg)
1 - Set of Dual Rear Antennas NOS.jpg (90KB - 275 downloads)
2 - Original Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (74KB - 301 downloads)
3 - Repro Dual Rear Antenna Coupler.jpg (59KB - 312 downloads)
4 - Capacitor Trimmer - Inside View.jpg (91KB - 285 downloads)
5 - Hex Head Capacitor Trimmer - Outside View right side of radio.jpg (80KB - 330 downloads)
6 - Original 1959 DODGE Radio.jpg (119KB - 284 downloads)
7 - Multiband Musicassette Radio in Glovebox.jpg (106KB - 285 downloads)
8 - Two different Car-Radios.jpg (92KB - 268 downloads)
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
|Again, thanks' Serge for good tips and tricks - I will copy the swivel seat backrest modification. You are totally right, the angle is too step OEM and full tilt does not give what a driver would like to have...|
|1959 Belvedere Conv|
Location: Arvada, Colorado (NW Denver Metro Area)
|Serge, I agree with Sven (Wizard) that is a great fix on the seats for a more comfortable sitting position with that modification to the stop area. I know you changed the rear seats too for a better angle of comfort but I will keep that angle as factory. |
I also need to reverse my Chrome seat hinge screws, I have the slotted end inside and the clear rivet part out. I thought it looked better that way.
The seat pivot works fine but small details like that do count.
Edited by 1959 Belvedere Conv 2012-07-26 11:43 PM
Front Seats 2: For those who want this modification to be reversible, here I did the seatback angle adjustable, to a fixed angle:
N.B. As I like my fixed setting, these pictures are real-view mounted for illustration on PS.
Edited by sermey 2012-07-27 3:10 AM
(6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg)
(7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg)
(8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg)
(9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg)
6 - Headless Allen screw.jpg (80KB - 265 downloads)
7 - Max Seatback angle.jpg (102KB - 256 downloads)
8 - Reset Seatback angle.jpg (90KB - 229 downloads)
9 - Visible Adjustable Backseat.jpg (123KB - 277 downloads)
Location: USA - KY
Amazing stuff, Serge!
Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book!
Great photos...please keep them coming!
FIN ME - 2012-08-02 4:57 PM Amazing stuff, Serge! Thank you for posting all of this...you should write a book! Great photos...please keep them coming! :)
Thanks for your kind comment, and to all the many people viewing this thread. Three hints to the photos: - 1. clean the item - 2. remove around all what not needed - 3. then at all if possible: NO flash to keep the deepness! - SERGE -
Fuel Alert Contact: In addition to: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=173&start=41
Now, when the LED goes on, I read the odometer and know exactly how far the remaining fuel will last, independent of the vague fuel gauge reading (05). For today cars nothing exceptional, but all the more on a fifties car. – SERGE -
N.B. The elegant solution is using a differetial OPAMP, no extra wires, but same variable resistor. Finally I was restoring a car, not again designing an electronic device.
Edited by sermey 2012-08-07 1:48 AM
(01 - Micro-Switch.jpg)
(02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg)
(03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg)
(04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg)
(05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg)
(06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg)
01 - Micro-Switch.jpg (100KB - 298 downloads)
02 - Mopar Fuel Sending Unit.jpg (67KB - 301 downloads)
03 - View PCB and Cursor on Resistor Unit.jpg (108KB - 283 downloads)
04 - View Fuel Tank Unit Connections Side.jpg (101KB - 286 downloads)
05 - View Fuel Tank Unit Fuel Side .jpg (99KB - 263 downloads)
06 - LED Alert at Empty Fuel Tank.jpg (130KB - 268 downloads)
Wider tires: Modern wider tires transform a car visually to a more powerful vehicle. This is obvious when comparing two tire types next to each other on the similar FWL-Car: Original Dodge Diagonal Type, and replacement Radial Type (01). This and the much better stability on the street, mainly in curves and when braking, brought me to do this switch. First, shortly abstract considerations on dimensions:
Edited by sermey 2012-08-07 9:37 AM
(01 - Comparison Front View.jpg)
(02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg)
(03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg)
(04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg)
(05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg)
(06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg)
(07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg)
01 - Comparison Front View.jpg (160KB - 276 downloads)
02 - Measured Radial Overall Diameter 708mm.jpg (104KB - 275 downloads)
03 - 1959 Dodge Promoted Tire 800 x 14in.jpg (90KB - 292 downloads)
04 - Measured Diagonal Road Contact 125mm.jpg (130KB - 250 downloads)
05 - Measured Radial Road Contact 175mm.jpg (111KB - 275 downloads)
06 - Rear View zoomed Left Radial Contact on Road.jpg (114KB - 286 downloads)
07 - Front View Radial Contact on Road.jpg (118KB - 269 downloads)
Location: Southern CA
|Thanks for sharing all the great tips, I will apply many to my car (as soon as I get one). Your car is awesome!|
Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden
|Hi sermey |
Your are Good to ut better,
I dont like this, maby you can Do this better: Only one stop when you open the door
At fl Cars. I Will have two stop. Some times at parking you have not lots off space, and only can oppend
The door litle.
Thank you and as new member welcome on this site.
What you see here is mostly “cold coffee”, because the restoration was completed about 15 years ago. At this time I had no digital camera. Now, not so easy to comment and particular to show “before – after”. Sometimes I must use pictures of other cars as reference. - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2012-08-08 2:29 PM
|Wide tires: Supplement|
Edited by sermey 2012-08-08 3:40 PM
(Coker Tire Radial Cross Reference.jpg)
Coker Tire Radial Cross Reference.jpg (169KB - 423 downloads)
A useful option that make sense. I will have a look at. - SERGE -
Filling Fine Scripts: For fine letters, standard paints will sometimes “over-layer” when filling. For this purpose, the thinnest paint I found was the Permanent Refill Ink (01), used for water resistant marker felt pens. It is very fast-drying and has a high coverage.
(*) A felt pen is not suitable for a homogeneous coating on metal.
Edited by sermey 2012-08-14 8:30 PM
(01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg)
(02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg)
(03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg)
01 - Refill Ink Permanent Marker.jpg (97KB - 327 downloads)
02 - Filling fine script MIRROR.jpg (108KB - 323 downloads)
03 - Filling fine script HOOD.jpg (61KB - 342 downloads)
|Leaking Valve Covers: At the first glance it seemed to be an easy thing to mount the valve covers without any leaking . . . . . but finally I got it.|
First all contact surfaces of the valve cover have to be properly mated all around. Often, around the bolt holes the cover is deformed due to a previous too strong tightening.
For a sure sealing, Silicon Gasket (as already presented earlier) is applied just on the inner edges of the valve cover (1). Remember: this is not glue for fixing and will not harden. It remains soft (20 shore) and allows an easy removal of the cover. Any other similar Silicon can be used, but it must be resistant to temperatures in the range of -40 to +180deg. Before tightening, when visible the gasket then can be pushed under the cover (2).
To avoid local high pressing and a deformation around the head of the bolt, special hold-down brackets are being used. These give two additional extended hold-down points (3). The big washer improves the local stability around the bolt holes, shorten virtually the bolt for the cap nut and hide the eccentric bore.
Polished stainless cap nuts (4) underline the overall harmonic style of the engine compartment (5). - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2012-09-01 3:03 PM
(1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg)
(2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg)
(3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg)
(4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg)
(5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg)
1 - Automotive Gasket.jpg (72KB - 396 downloads)
2 - Aligned Valve Cover.jpg (93KB - 342 downloads)
3 - Valve Cover Hold-Down Bracket.jpg (120KB - 330 downloads)
4 - Fixed Valve Cover.jpg (117KB - 318 downloads)
5 - Valve Cover Top View.jpg (136KB - 339 downloads)
Carpets and Floor Mats 1: With my 1959 Dodge Convertible I got white Knight Rubber Mats I never saw elsewhere. I found these exceptional and thus present them here. The Side Emblem ot the front mat seems to be equal to the Center Emblem.
Since restored, I used other Carpets and Floor Mats in my car, and will thread them in a next part to come. - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2012-09-02 4:27 AM
(01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg)
(02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg)
(03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg)
(04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg)
01 - 1959 Knight Rubber Mats Front - Rear.jpg (150KB - 439 downloads)
02 - Knight Mat - Front Center Emblem.jpg (122KB - 294 downloads)
03 - Knight Mat - Rear Center Emblem.jpg (94KB - 313 downloads)
04 - Knight Mat - Rear Side Emblem.jpg (99KB - 323 downloads)
|Carpets and Floor Mats 2: On the market a wide range of said "Original Floor Mats" are offered. There are very nice ones and available at a reasonable price. Others, described as “original” size doesn’t fit at all.|
I set my personal standards on quality, material, color and finish, mainly based on practical considerations. Furthermore, on a Convertible some specs on carpets have higher weighting, being more exposed than on a Sedan.
Here my arguments:
1. The quality. There are two basic carpet versions being used: the "loop pile" and the "cut pile" (05). Practical arguments brought me to use exclusively "cut pile" carpet.(06):
Cleaning a carpet from any dirt, the "loop pile" prevents to remove it, the dirt will even enter more in the carpet. Furthermore, hanging on a loop, the carpet may be damaged all along a line.
Other the "cut pile": when brushing, the slanted pile supports to take out the dirt easily. It is invisible, when added two parts together, or when inserted a round stamped sample in damaged spots.
Walking on a good quality cut pile floor is noticeable much more comfortable, and it has a better absorbance of sound and noise.
2. The material. In a car, exposed to humidity and oil, a full synthetic material is a must. It doesn't rot, thus offer a longer lifetime, and is much more resistive to aggressive cleanser.
3. The color. It should match to the interior of the car, preferably unicolored not visually interfering to other items. Unicolor generally looks more precious, is calmative, but as well more delicate when not clean.
4. The finish: Solid and wear resistant base enabling to glue when needed, no under foam-coating, all around bordered to prevent fringing.
On my Convertible, at the time not finding floor insertions or original mats, all was custom made with loop pile carpets, black synthetic, solid tissue base and vinyl-bordered all around (07) (08).
Instead of bordering, on straight edging a plastic profiles as used to fix papers can be applied as protection (09). The same profile I used inside of my door sills (see: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=23691&posts=184&start=13). If needed for attaching, rubber or plastic items can be inserted as shown (10).
(will be continued)
(05 - Basics Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg)
(06 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg)
(07 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Upper Side bordered.jpg)
(08 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Under Side bordered.jpg)
(09 - Alternative bordering with a Profile.jpg)
(10 - Rubber for attaching.jpg)
05 - Basics Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg (96KB - 323 downloads)
06 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile.jpg (154KB - 328 downloads)
07 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Upper Side bordered.jpg (130KB - 339 downloads)
08 - Carpets Loop Pile - Cut Pile Under Side bordered.jpg (132KB - 307 downloads)
09 - Alternative bordering with a Profile.jpg (109KB - 334 downloads)
10 - Rubber for attaching.jpg (109KB - 330 downloads)
Location: Nasco , SWEDEN
|This thread is really outstanding, just love to read an see what he´s up to! Sermey "The Magic Man"|
Location: Southern CA
sermey - 2009-02-01 4:44 AM
15” Wheels and Tires: I always found, 14” Wheels on my Car are relatively too small and look poor in Proportion to the Body and its Wheelhouse. Must say, this was the Style at this time.
The other Point, bigger and wider Tires have much better Adhesion on the Street, the 235/70/15 Radial Tires about +25% in Comparison to the Original 14” Diagonal ones. This improvement is necessarily needed for a full Advantage of Disk Brakes. Thus, I decided in favor of 15” Wheels and the corresponding WWW Tires, still keeping the Original 14” Wheel Set including the Spinner Hubcaps. In order to keep the Original Appearance, the Original HubCaps should fit to the 15” Rims.
I bought 15” decorative stainless Rings, cut out the Border around, and soldered it inside the Wheel Cover. For a stronger Fixing on the rechromed Wheels I increased the Clamp Pression by putting a soft round PVC Profile under the Clamps.
Now, the Hubcaps fit perfectly to the 15” Rims, their Edges are even protected from Curbstones due to the inner Position, and the Air Valve is perfectly centered as well. According my personal feeling, this Wheel Size gives the Car its settled Proportions. Another improvement of the Outfit, for the Drivers Security, and as an additional Benefit the Wheel Cover Edge Protection.
(can see, my HubCaps are not perfect, but polished and with the sticked Black they look as)
Hi Sermey, I plan to get 235-70/15's for my car also. Can you please tell me what's the width of the white walls on your tires? Your choice of white walls provides the same look I'm trying to achieve. By the way, I bought a car a few weeks ago if you want to see it under Member's Rides title "My 57 New Yorker." Steve
Leadfoot1000 - 2012-09-08 7:01 AM
sermey - 2009-02-01 4:44 AM . . . . what's the width of the white walls on your tires? Steve
Measured on the car: 70.5mm = 2.775"
According the Manufacturer Coker Tire: Radial P235/70R15, WW 2n3/4 (see attached Specs 2012) - SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2012-09-08 7:25 AM
(1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.jpg)
1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.jpg (231KB - 314 downloads)
1959 DODGE Custom Royal Lancer Convertible 2012.pdf (148KB - 463 downloads)
|Fan Shroud: My car didn’t had a Fan Shroud (01). On a car meeting I purchased a Chrome Metal Fan Shroud, thinking this would give the engine compartment a more valuated look, will prevent parts or screws falling on the propeller when working at idling, and as protection from casually touch inside. (old Pic 02). So far so good.|
In hot summer, at longer stops and idling I encountered critical heating situations, the engine room got quite hot. I was reflecting: without a shroud, the fan blows not only axial, but as well partially radial as a centrifugal fan. My Metal Shroud, covering only 65% of the propeller, now caused in idle more air to be centrifuged downward instead towards the engine. -> Just check it!
I took a high temperature Heat Protective Mat (03), put this over a panel to seal airtight underneath the fan and front (04). As result, the heating was noticeable reduced. Then I purchased two Chrome Metal Shrouds, the longest available (170mm), one for the upper, the other one for the lower side of the fan. They had to be exactly marked for a partly cut-out to fit all around (05). Needed cut-outs for: the water hose (06), the generator belt (07), the steering pump, the transmission oil lines (08), and a bending on the fuel pump side (09). All these cuts were previously simulated with a cardboard sample. Then the prepared two halves (to see lower Shroud) (10) (11) could be mounted very easy, without disassembling anything, and fixed with long bolts through the radiator.
The distance of the shroud to the propeller, here should be taken in consideration the movement of the engine on bad streets. The short Metal Shroud was initially mounted too near, as signs of contacts can be seen on the comparison (12).
Now this Chrome Metal Shroud makes multiple sense: protection, outfit and an improved cooling at longer stop (13). - SERGE -
Comment: If you find a standard shroud fitting the radiator you will save some handiwork, but will have to disassemble some items!
Edited by sermey 2012-09-08 12:35 PM
(01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg)
(02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg)
(03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg)
(04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg)
(05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg)
(06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg)
(07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg)
(08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg)
(09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg)
(10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg)
(11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg)
(12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg)
(13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg)
01 - Unprotected Fan - Water Hose Removed.jpg (153KB - 320 downloads)
02 - Short Metal Shroud Mounted.jpg (137KB - 343 downloads)
03 - Heat Protective Mat.jpg (116KB - 333 downloads)
04 - Protective Heat Protective Mat under Fan.jpg (100KB - 345 downloads)
05 - Metal Shroud Ready for Cut.jpg (94KB - 293 downloads)
06 - Cut-Out for Water Hose.jpg (112KB - 324 downloads)
07 - Cut-Out for Generator Belt.jpg (82KB - 336 downloads)
08 - Bottom View Trans Line.jpg (138KB - 334 downloads)
09 - Bent for under Trans Lines.jpg (114KB - 348 downloads)
10 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Outside View.jpg (108KB - 359 downloads)
11 - Lower Metal Shroud Cut - Inside View.jpg (114KB - 319 downloads)
12 - Short and Long Metal Shroud - Cut.jpg (101KB - 322 downloads)
13 - Chrome Metal Shroud 170mm - Top View.jpg (133KB - 324 downloads)
|Trunk Edge: The lower trunk edge is most exposed to damage when loading items not carefully. The paint is most badly affected. In addition, this edge is even not exactly straight.|
A profile in plastic or rubber, preferably in the cars color, could eliminate this situation. I found a plastic channel used in electric installations, in white as the car (1). The cover fits to the trunk edge as required (2). The trunk seal keep it in the right position (3) ( ! the carpet is black and ends up with the profile). Some rubber profiles or a small slotted hose would work as well.
Now, the trunk edge is protected, straight, no color damages anymore, all as it should always be (4). – SERGE -
(1 - White Profile.jpg)
(2 - Applied White Protective Profile.jpg)
(3 - Protective Profile fixed behind Trunk Seal.jpg)
(4 - Protected Trunk Edge - Top View.jpg)
1 - White Profile.jpg (68KB - 347 downloads)
2 - Applied White Protective Profile.jpg (139KB - 375 downloads)
3 - Protective Profile fixed behind Trunk Seal.jpg (119KB - 317 downloads)
4 - Protected Trunk Edge - Top View.jpg (98KB - 332 downloads)
Emblem on Ash Tray: As already shown earlier in this thread, I had fixed the small Knight Head (01) on the ash tray. It is the same as already on the steering wheel. Looking a little bit “lost”, I replaced it now by the more sophisticated emblem
used on the Glove Box of the 1959 Coronet (02-03). If nicer to put there an emblem, particulary this new one depends on each personal taste (04-05).
Anyway, as lover of emblems I like it. Another eye-catcher! - SERGE - :laugh:
Edited by sermey 2014-05-11 8:15 AM
(01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg)
(02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg)
(03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg)
(04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg)
(05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg)
01 Small Knight Head 25.jpg (63KB - 295 downloads)
02 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS 25.jpg (95KB - 263 downloads)
03 1959 Glove Box Medaillon NOS Solo 25.jpg (63KB - 272 downloads)
04 Ash Tray Solo 25.jpg (88KB - 276 downloads)
05 Ash Tray Front View 25.jpg (119KB - 276 downloads)
Bright Back Light: When replacing the bulbs by LEDs for backlight, there are various LED lamps available that fit to the socket 1156 BA (01). Here not shown all. The standard replacement LEDs shines more white then brighter. One solution for a brighter light is to use Super Bright LEDs, as the power dissipation and therefore the heating effect remains small. A next step brighter is to use instead of the 1156 BA single lamp the High Power 1157 BA dual Lamp (Turn Signal / Brake), when bridging the two connectors, and adapting one fixing pin to fit to the single contact socket (02). The difference between standard bulb and Power LED manifests in color and an impressive brightness (03).
Now, turning backwards at night, the street is sufficient illuminated, in respect to ground and in distance (04). – SERGE -
Edited by sermey 2014-05-16 12:34 PM
(01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg)
(02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg)
(03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg)
(04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg)
01 Various LEDs BS1156 -25.jpg (47KB - 296 downloads)
02 Sockets BS1156 - BS1157 bridged -25 .jpg (68KB - 249 downloads)
03 Comparison Bulb - LED -25.jpg (73KB - 270 downloads)
04 Super Bright Back Light - 25.jpg (80KB - 257 downloads)
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
|Nice idea Serge, thanks' for sharing!|
The Last Emblem: Many years ago I found a nice ForwardLook Emblem with a Dodge Script. Because I liked I purchased, even I had never seen this one on a 1959 Dodge. It got a nice place under the left Front Seat (01). Since then I was looking for a similar Emblem for the right side, but without the Dodge Script - a ForwardLook Emblem should never be mounted Backward.
Now I found what I was looking for a long time (02). It has got his reserved place, looking happily forward as his brother on the left side (03). Another hidden eye-catcher (04).
Was this the last emblem to be mounted on my 1959 Dodge Convertible? - SERGE -
(01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg)
(02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg)
(03 Emblem RH -25.jpg)
(04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg)
01 FWL Emblem LH -25.jpg (128KB - 257 downloads)
02 FWL Emblem Solo-25.jpg (61KB - 280 downloads)
03 Emblem RH -25.jpg (118KB - 248 downloads)
04 FWL Emblem View RH -25 .jpg (118KB - 288 downloads)
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
|That looks really like a nice emblem Serge - fact I don't recall ever seeing such a nicely shaped one?! Is there a story behind??|
Location: USA - KY
Looks great, Serge!
Love your work. You are part mechanic, part artist!
Astounding attention to detail!
Flashing LEDs: Brighter light on directional and rear lamps can be achieved when using LEDs of the new generation (01). They about 10% current consumption then standard bulbs. With this low current the common thermostatic operated flasher (02) will not work anymore. Load resistors of about 6 Ohm/20Watt (03) are offered to connect in parallel to each replaced bulb. To keep it low-cost, one resistor can be connected directly at the output of the flasher and will then be parallel to any LEDs in flashing mode. With the load resistor the additional “advantage” of a lower current consumption is lost, but it works.
Using an electronic controlled flasher (astable multivibrator) with relais (04), the flash frequency will be independent of the loading. It is defined by the time-constant, and can be modified by the value of a capacitor or resistor (05).
Simpler is to use an adjustable electronic flasher (06), The pin configuration enables to replace directly the standard flasher. It needs an additional lead to ground. Now the flashing frequency can be modified manually in a wide range by turning the axis of the potentiometer, and independent of load and voltage it remains stable.
The simplest and lowest cost solution at all is to keep all the bulbs connected, but outside the housing (in a thermo- protected and dimmed space), and insert the LED lamps in parallel. The total current will increase about 10% and as well the flashing frequency.
The result with Power LEDs is a Super Bright Rear Light, when flashing and at stop. With the camera the brightest red becomes yellow (07)!
To get a warmer and homogenous white light I covered the front LEDs with a Dessert Cap (08), only possible because the LED doesn’t heat.
With parking LEDs ON, now the car can keep the battery charge up to one week, at super bright light! - SERGE - :laugh:
(01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg)
(02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg)
(03 Load Resistors.jpg)
(04 Electronic Flasher.jpg)
(05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg)
(06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg)
(07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg)
(08 Dessert Cap.jpg)
(09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg)
01 Power LEDs Red-White Cree.jpg (74KB - 271 downloads)
02 Thermostatic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 255 downloads)
03 Load Resistors.jpg (76KB - 234 downloads)
04 Electronic Flasher.jpg (72KB - 242 downloads)
05 Printed Circuit Board.jpg (93KB - 234 downloads)
06 Adjustable Electronic Flasher.jpg (93KB - 268 downloads)
07 Super Bright Red Light.jpg (96KB - 250 downloads)
08 Dessert Cap.jpg (51KB - 261 downloads)
09 Damped LED Park Light.jpg (80KB - 232 downloads)
Location: Perth Australia
|Very good |
Always enjoy reading this thread (been a long time since something new)
I will add though that those "scotch locks" (red wire taps) belong in the bin, nothing but electrical gremlin makers especially on anything that draws a current
Dash Pad 1: When I got my Dodge, the dash pad was hard, dried and partly broken. There was no other way then to remove it (01). After cleaning the surface I used the same black vinyl to coat it as for the door panels (02). Applying on both sides enough Contact Glue, as for the arm rests (see earlier post), the coating got softer, could then be stretched and pulled around the edges. Fixed with masking tape I had to wait one week. The instruments metallic insert (03) then mounted over when black painted. The right side rounding was simulated by a coated metal (04).The result was impressive, as shown in 06 – 08. There was just one negative aspect: the surface was not padded and there were no ribbers.
Looking at the old brochure the ribbing is also missing (09), but I think this was a preliminary draft. The illustration in the parts book, the dash pad shows ribbes (10 black), as can be seen on cars with the original pad (11 blue, for Ron).
Today the Swedish company RD Autoline (Tony) reproduces this one and many other dash pads in a stunning originality and at high quality standard. What I saw in documentations is a high skilled artwork.
I ordered one for my 1959 Dodge Convertible and will later report the proceeding in mounting it, in: Dash Pad 2. - SERGE -
(01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg)
(02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg)
(03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg)
(04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg)
(05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg)
(06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg)
(07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg)
(08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg)
(09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg)
(10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg)
01 Remove Old Dash Board.jpg (91KB - 238 downloads)
02 Black Vinyl Coating.jpg (112KB - 263 downloads)
03 Instruments Metallic Insert.jpg (97KB - 233 downloads)
04 Vinyl Coated Dash Right Side.jpg (96KB - 263 downloads)
05 Vinyl Coated Dash Center.jpg (134KB - 268 downloads)
06 Vinyl Coated Dash Left Side.jpg (124KB - 247 downloads)
07 Vinyl Coated Dash Board Overview.jpg (112KB - 241 downloads)
08 Dash Pad Old Brochure.jpg (79KB - 218 downloads)
09 Dash Pad Partsbook Black.jpg (53KB - 257 downloads)
10 Dash Pad Partsbook Blue.jpg (93KB - 238 downloads)
Weak Hood Spring: When I got my Dodge, the hood had to be kept up with a wooden bar because of weakened springs. Thus I had first to reproduce stronger springs, and found a manufacturer. For an incredible price of CHF 80.00 he produced for me (1994), according the sample I sent him, 3 different pairs of springs, so I could test them on the car (01) and make the choice. What you see are the remaining 2 new pairs.
I kept the pair of spring that just hold up the hood and painted them in white as the car (02). Since then the hood is up as it should. - SERGE –
Edited by sermey 2015-04-08 12:05 PM
(01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg)
(02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg)
01 Old-New Repro Hood Spring.jpg (132KB - 218 downloads)
02 Mounted New Hood Spring.jpg (77KB - 276 downloads)
Location: ZH, Switzerland
With a big interest I'm following your thred. You're like a Wizard here in Switzerland. Thank you very much for all your helpful hints. I'm sure I could use some of your hints for my Letter after it comes back from the body shop. I'm happy I could meet you at Zug on April 20th this year and we'll do the journey to the PBM together. Big hugs.
Till later, take care,
Location: northern germany
hoodinki - 2015-04-08 12:13 PM
We all got that stick, I prefer the unscrewable wooden type on push brooms. I remember needing these, and a wheel chuck to keep in the trunk for parking on hills if you had a Powerflite, back in the 1970s for my Plymouth. Not really MBZ engineering going on back then. No wonder Plymouth is now Dead,.
wtf?! in 100 000s of miles driving my plymouth or other fls i never had the slightest problems with hood springs or the very efficient parking brakes. they lock the tires anytime and on the steepest hills. don't blame these fine cars for poor maintenance. these cars are build for the eternity IF properly serviced.
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