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"Make-Up" your Car!
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-25 5:24 AM (#156679 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND
Upholstery: I don't know if my Upholtery of my car was Original. It looked, as many other Interiors, as "hooked bags". I took the Promotional Picture (Convertible with Swivel Seats) and designed it accordingly in CAD for the "upholstery Man" telling him, I wanted a good visible feed in, as in the promotional picture. He did a perfect Job and now it's like original. This coulds also be done with any pre-manufactured Upholsteries. See at the diffference!


Edited by sermey 2008-12-25 5:41 AM




(Uphosltery old.jpg)



(OR Upholstery 2.jpg)



(DSC00154Upholstery 3.jpg)



(DSC02021 Upholstery DesignL .jpg)



(2008-04-27 SM Interior copy.jpg)



(DSC00210 Rear Seats L.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Uphosltery old.jpg (39KB - 408 downloads)
Attachments OR Upholstery 2.jpg (94KB - 386 downloads)
Attachments DSC00154Upholstery 3.jpg (83KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments DSC02021 Upholstery DesignL .jpg (90KB - 401 downloads)
Attachments 2008-04-27 SM Interior copy.jpg (94KB - 400 downloads)
Attachments DSC00210 Rear Seats L.jpg (82KB - 355 downloads)
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345 DeSoto
Posted 2008-12-25 8:56 AM (#156685 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 1302
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Location: Skaneateles,NY(summer)/Port St.Lucie,FL(winter)
Absolutely STUNNING car!...
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Bart_59_Dodge
Posted 2008-12-25 9:07 AM (#156688 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 1442
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Location: Oconomowoc Wi
Is your CAD available to others for the Custom Royal interior ? ...and does that also include the inner / door pannels. Your car is outstanding.
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-25 12:57 PM (#156712 - in reply to #156688)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Bart_59_Dodge - 2008-12-25 3:07 PM Is your CAD available to others for the Custom Royal interior ? ...and does that also include the inner / door pannels. Your car is outstanding.

Bart, I put it here for you and all the other Dodge 59 Owners of FLK.Net. It was not an easy Job to get this from Original Promotional Pictures. Just make a zoomed Printout of the PDF-File, and you have the exact countours as used for my Upholstery. I didn't made any door panels, I furnished the original ones with comments.

As you can see on the upper picture taken from the PC-Display: Having only a A4-Plotter at this time (10 years ago), I divided the layout in many A4- Sheets and then stuck them together to get the Original size in one (about 10 A4-sheets per Seat).

- SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2008-12-25 1:11 PM




(Dodge 59 Upholstery L.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Dodge 59 Upholstery L.jpg (114KB - 356 downloads)
Attachments Dodge 59 Upholstery.pdf (41KB - 372 downloads)
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Bart_59_Dodge
Posted 2008-12-25 1:32 PM (#156713 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 1442
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Location: Oconomowoc Wi
Serge,
Is there any chance you have the CAD in a DWG or similar format ?
I have autocad and other CAD software at work available to me.

I could probably open up the file in its native format. It would be more functional as well.
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-25 1:47 PM (#156715 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Hood: Correctly centering the Hood without damaging the Edges was a big issue, the disposable gap on my car beeing about only 0.06* for each side. A solution for a precise and durable positioning was needed.

On the rear end, the Hood was too low, when correctly adjusted at the corners.  I mounted 4 rubber bumpers, modified to the needed height,  left and right corner one, the other two according the picture. Now the edge from one corner to the other is and stay parallel in height.

On each side of the Hood I put a Round-Head Screw, adjusting the height for exact centering with washers. To assure a good and tight fixing the original centering rubber should be squeezed as shown in the picture. Now the Hood is exact centered all around, no cracked edges and no vibrations of the hood - a perfect fitting even at very small gaps.

 

 



Edited by sermey 2008-12-25 2:04 PM




(DSC02023L Hood rear before.jpg)



(DSC02037L Hood rear after.jpg)



(DSC02036L Positioner Hood Rear.jpg)



(DSC02038L Center Positioners.jpg)



(DSC02040L Positioner Sizes.jpg)



(DSC02024l Hood Gap Left.jpg)



(DSC02025L Hood Gap Right.jpg)



(DSC02033L Positioner Left.jpg)



(DSC02032L Hood Rubber Left.jpg)



(DSC02042L Final Result.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02023L Hood rear before.jpg (54KB - 370 downloads)
Attachments DSC02037L Hood rear after.jpg (48KB - 370 downloads)
Attachments DSC02036L Positioner Hood Rear.jpg (37KB - 412 downloads)
Attachments DSC02038L Center Positioners.jpg (36KB - 370 downloads)
Attachments DSC02040L Positioner Sizes.jpg (36KB - 387 downloads)
Attachments DSC02024l Hood Gap Left.jpg (65KB - 419 downloads)
Attachments DSC02025L Hood Gap Right.jpg (54KB - 358 downloads)
Attachments DSC02033L Positioner Left.jpg (60KB - 377 downloads)
Attachments DSC02032L Hood Rubber Left.jpg (53KB - 379 downloads)
Attachments DSC02042L Final Result.jpg (62KB - 380 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-25 4:19 PM (#156728 - in reply to #156110)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND
sermey - 2008-12-19 10:07 PM

Mirror-Matic: No visible Cable from the Mirror-Matic to the Dashboard. Drill a duct inside the Stand (about 3.5mm) and use a high flexible isolated wire.

(to know: Mirror-Matic is always ON. The OFF Switch just interrupts the Control Signal.  I have a separate OFF Switch under the Dashboard to save Tube Life and Current)

Another View of the Stand. Is this Mount / Foot as Original?





(DSC02022L Stand Mirror-Matic.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02022L Stand Mirror-Matic.jpg (78KB - 374 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-26 12:12 PM (#156794 - in reply to #156223)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Location: SWITZERLAND
catman - 2008-12-20 11:37 PM
sermey - 2008-12-20 6:44 AM

Sill Plates: Today there are very nice Reproductions available in Sweden, at the time not disposable. As far I saw not painted.

 

Where can we get them? Do they make them for sedan models? Any web site?

I just spoke to Jan Fridberg in Sweden. He manufactures Dual Air Cleaners and Sill Plates in Aluminium in a high Quality. His direct contact:

janfridberg@hotmail.com

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sermey
Posted 2008-12-26 4:32 PM (#156812 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Rear Lamps: Theses Golden "Eye-Lines" have already attracted the attention of many people, using the same golden Foil as on the Door Handles. For a Dual Tone Car the corresponding Color would match even better - and it can be removed and redone instantly, without any chemical or disassembly. Print-out the PDF-File on A4 Sticking-Sheet (will be 1:1), then stick one sample on the Color Foil (color-Side) and cut-out around accordingly. Before applying fold the sample in the center for best positioning, remove the protecting layer, and at the end the sticked sample. Good News for Dodge 59 Owners?

(If your Foil is heat-resistent (Laser Printer!) you not need a Sticking-Sheet and can print directly on the protecting layer of the Foil  Check first!)

Later on I will put another "Rear Lamps" talking on the Light.



Edited by sermey 2008-12-26 4:52 PM




(DSC00035 DODGE59 Rear Lamp .jpg)



(DSC00200L Rear Lamps.jpg)



(Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil copy.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00035 DODGE59 Rear Lamp .jpg (47KB - 381 downloads)
Attachments DSC00200L Rear Lamps.jpg (76KB - 388 downloads)
Attachments Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil copy.jpg (82KB - 371 downloads)
Attachments Dodge59 Rear Lamp Foil.pdf (42KB - 370 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-27 12:21 PM (#156931 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Screws 1: "No rusty Scews anymore!" I whished and decided to use only stainless (rustfree, 18/8) Screws where not excessive Stability is required. Most Platings (zinc, chrome, nickel, promat, etc.) on iron/steel Screws are not a Guarantee for no rust in a Temperature, Acid and all Weather exposed Ambient. The Rust is programmed as soon the Plating is damaged, what already may happen when you use them the first time. On a white painted Car as mine, any rusty Water will left visible Tracks. The stainless Screws are much more solid than standard Screws. They can be modified in Lenght and Head-Shape as you need or like it, and finally be polished, as shown when just having simple Tools disposable. Important for a nice rounded Result: the Screw and the Tool must turn in a high Speed and in 90deg Direction each to other.

The first Picture shows various Screws with polished Heads I used for my Car: Row3/5 Arm Rests, Row3/6 over the Head Lamps Dodge59,  Row2/6 Door Latch. Mostly used on FWL-Cars  Row 3/8-9 for Interior and Mirrors.



Edited by sermey 2008-12-27 3:26 PM




(DSC02045 Screw Types.jpg)



(DSC02054L Polishing Tools.jpg)



(DSC02060L Resizing Head.jpg)



(DSC02057L Polishing Head.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02045 Screw Types.jpg (108KB - 403 downloads)
Attachments DSC02054L Polishing Tools.jpg (83KB - 351 downloads)
Attachments DSC02060L Resizing Head.jpg (53KB - 377 downloads)
Attachments DSC02057L Polishing Head.jpg (73KB - 343 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2008-12-27 12:51 PM (#156934 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



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I use the same method as Serge and I can confirm the good result obtained by using a drilling machine, mounting the object in the mandrel, running high speed in 90 degree angle agains the polish dish - stainless steel comes to mirror shine.
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-30 6:45 AM (#157216 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Hoses: There are many ways to get nice Hoses, using various Materials and Colors. The simplest is just to have stainless/rustfree Clamps and polish them as done with the Screws. See the difference standard - stainless.

You can invest a fortune for the Hoses using sophisticated anodized Aluminium Ends and silver metallic Hose Coats, instead of black non-metal as I used. This black Coat keep its appearance, doesn't get mat or show any black oily Tracks. It is not expensive, easy to assemble and gives a discreet Look. There are different Sizes availabe as shown in the Picture. Only the Radiator End Covers I had to make with a Rest of the stainless Exhaust Tube, because not found (cut and polish!). After first mounting the hose and then the Coat, the black adhesive Tape around is for pre-fixing and avoiding possible damage by the Clamps. The Chrome Hose End Covers comes over the Clamp, leaving the Screw and End outside. The Clamp can be re-tighten at any time without removing any Part.





(DSC02124L Vacuum Hose.jpg)



(DSC02122L Radiator Hose.jpg)



(DSC02125L Heater-Fuel Hose.jpg)



(DSC02130L Hose Clamps.jpg)



(DSC02128L Hoses Covers.jpg)



(DSC02134L Hose Assembling.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02124L Vacuum Hose.jpg (87KB - 365 downloads)
Attachments DSC02122L Radiator Hose.jpg (85KB - 377 downloads)
Attachments DSC02125L Heater-Fuel Hose.jpg (116KB - 351 downloads)
Attachments DSC02130L Hose Clamps.jpg (63KB - 373 downloads)
Attachments DSC02128L Hoses Covers.jpg (108KB - 407 downloads)
Attachments DSC02134L Hose Assembling.jpg (57KB - 373 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-30 10:28 AM (#157239 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Wires: As for Hoses there are various Solutions to package and protect the wires. First I was suggested to use "self-merging" Tape. Then I listed up my demands for "tubing" the wires/cables on my Car:

- Add and remove Wires at any time without "restarting" the job.

- Adapting the diameter when starting with one and ending with multiple Wires.

- Possibility to Branch off a Cable at any position.

- Flexible,  compact and heat-resistant, in sufficient Lenght available.

The (split) Tubes I used are shown in different Sizes (the big Sizes are missing). They can lead from one Size to the next Size by overlapping. For "closed" Applications two Tubes are being twisted one into another. Easy replaceable to another Size when adding or removing Cables. To cut with a Knife.  Applications to see also on earlier Pictures. I think these Tubes could also be used for Water and Fuel Hoses!?!



Edited by sermey 2008-12-30 10:40 AM




(DSC02135L Alternator OneWire.jpg)



(DSC02136L Crossover Sizes.jpg)



(DSC02153L Wire Tubes.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02135L Alternator OneWire.jpg (80KB - 387 downloads)
Attachments DSC02136L Crossover Sizes.jpg (74KB - 344 downloads)
Attachments DSC02153L Wire Tubes.jpg (65KB - 354 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-30 3:45 PM (#157280 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Dual Antenna Gaskets: With my Car I got a complete Set of Rubber Parts. Most of them I could not use, the Gaskets for the Dual Antennas being to big.

I looked for a compatible Rubber Profile, best I could find was a wide sealing Strip (see Picture) with a useable Profile (Border Width 2.4mm, Border Height 2.25mm, Support Thickness 1.5mm). I cut this in the minimum Lenght of circumference (at Width 8mm). In the Middle of this Stripe I cutout a corner  to match the front angle of the Antenna Socket. With the Antenna already mounted but not tightened, I pushed fully in the Rubber Profile around the socket. On the rear, two other 90deg angles had been cutout on the job, the Lenght adapted to meet in the Center of the rear Side. (N.B I left the mounted Gasket in Picture Start Mounting!)

Important: starting with the Front, the front scew underneath has to be tighten first for pre-fixing the Rubber. At this point the Rubber should be pulled on both sides along the Socket to find the correct 90deg angle position, before cutting out. Finally the second Screw of the Socket can be tighten, as the first too. The Gasket fits all around as illustrated.

The Advantages of this Gasket: For replacing or changing, no Cables nor the Socket have to be removed. The Rubber is softer than the said Gasket and assures best Protection from entering Water in the Trunk. And last but not least, it looks professional.

I added the last Picture showing how to tighten the Socket, because hardly accessible (first fix a long screw, then manually tighten the wing nut, no tools!)



Edited by sermey 2008-12-30 5:39 PM




(DSC02170L Left Side View.jpg)



(DSC02171L Right Side View.jpg)



(DSC02154L Preparing Profile.jpg)



(DSC02174L Cut Front Corner.jpg)



(DSC02169L Start Mounting.jpg)



(DSC02202L Manually Thighted Socket.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02170L Left Side View.jpg (92KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments DSC02171L Right Side View.jpg (66KB - 389 downloads)
Attachments DSC02154L Preparing Profile.jpg (50KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments DSC02174L Cut Front Corner.jpg (29KB - 366 downloads)
Attachments DSC02169L Start Mounting.jpg (69KB - 375 downloads)
Attachments DSC02202L Manually Thighted Socket.jpg (70KB - 397 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-30 6:30 PM (#157302 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Rear Dual Power Antennas: Most Mopar-Owners wishes to have Rear Dual Antennas. Then, they would like to have them as Power Antennas. I must say: It is really an eye-catcher watching to these two Antennas when coming out together -  each one want to be the first on Top!

I felt a mess all this many parts, and thinking when must change the Antenna Bar (!), if ever a replacement is disposable. I found it easier to built-in a Power Module than to rebuild the Standard Antenna. I took two most used Power Antenna Units (new), shorted the Aluminium Tube according the Height of the Mopar Socket, drilled a bigger hole in the Mopar Antenna Socket - thats it!

Mounting - easy! Hold the Power Unit in the Trunk down-up first without fixing it, insert from top the Mopar Antenna Socket and fixed it. Now the correct Position where the Antenna has to be mounted is given. It needs just one long single Screw that leads direct through the Center of the Power Unit to the Fold of the Wheelhouse in the Trunk (see Picture).The lateral adjustment to be vertical was done with washers as distance elements (right side fits exact without any additional positioner). The two Antennas have to be parallel, view from ANY Position.

Now: A broken bar can instantly be replaced. Simply remove the visible Bar Nut and pull the old Bar out. When inserted, the new Antenna Bar is automatically fed in. It is in stainless / rustfree Steel, polished will be shiny (as earlier mentioned the Screws and Hose Clamps). In OFF-Position the new Bar goes more inside than the Mopar Bar. I feel this even nicer - and a smaller risk that an unhappy Guy will brake them. The Bar is a little bit shorter than the original one, therefore has a better FM reception. Both Antenna Units are controlled in parallel by a separate Switch, mounted lefthand under the dashboard. Before the Mopar Antenna was laterally weak being fixed only on the Bodys Metal Sheet by the two Screws of the Mopar Socket. Now, the second Mount by the Power Unit assures a stiff Stability all around.

To know: The Dual Antennas are originally RF-connected in parallel (Y). This worked well at the time with AM. With an FM-Radio Interference could occur. I connected the left Antenna to the Original AM Radio (Center Loudspeaker). The right Antenna goes to the FM Radio in the Glove Compartment (Surround STEREO Loudspeaker).



Edited by sermey 2008-12-31 5:26 AM




(DSC02178L Antenna Parts.jpg)



(DSC02179L Power Unit.jpg)



(DSC02198L Antenna Mounts.jpg)



(DSC02202L Antenna Connection.jpg)



(DSC02181L Bar Replacement.jpg)



(DSC02208L Bar Nut.jpg)



(DSC02204L Antenna Height.jpg)



(DSC02208L Antenna Full View.jpg)



(DSC00195L Dual Power Antennas.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02178L Antenna Parts.jpg (56KB - 377 downloads)
Attachments DSC02179L Power Unit.jpg (53KB - 383 downloads)
Attachments DSC02198L Antenna Mounts.jpg (90KB - 361 downloads)
Attachments DSC02202L Antenna Connection.jpg (97KB - 377 downloads)
Attachments DSC02181L Bar Replacement.jpg (26KB - 396 downloads)
Attachments DSC02208L Bar Nut.jpg (45KB - 372 downloads)
Attachments DSC02204L Antenna Height.jpg (44KB - 432 downloads)
Attachments DSC02208L Antenna Full View.jpg (55KB - 384 downloads)
Attachments DSC00195L Dual Power Antennas.jpg (75KB - 341 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 5:03 AM (#157359 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Front Grill: Another "Make-Up" the golden anodized Front Grill. If like or not, just must see! I found otherwise too much silver.

Pictures taken at US-Car Meeting when won "Best of Show": Me and my 1959 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Convertible.



Edited by sermey 2008-12-31 5:15 AM




(DSC00022L Golden Grill.jpg)



(DSC00037L Front.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00022L Golden Grill.jpg (109KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments DSC00037L Front.jpg (99KB - 358 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 6:10 AM (#157362 - in reply to #156812)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Exhaust Outlets: Another tricky "Make-Up" or say Show-Element are the Quad Exhaust Outlets. It remember at nice, long Blond-Hair Ladies, the Hairs being "Dummies", but we still like and look at them.

I found the Dual Exhaust Outlets too much in the Center. Adding two additional virtual Outlets moves them optically to the right Direction outside.  Among various available items I selected these stainless Outlets because they matched best to the rear Side-Profile of the 1959 Dodge.  The mounting items, as illustrated, are also in stainless / rustfree Steel. This Mount System allows to adjust individually the Distance between the twin Outlets.

Here again: this can be restored at any time to its original state!



Edited by sermey 2008-12-31 6:24 AM




(DSC00043L Quad Exhaust Outlets.jpg)



(DSC00019L Dual Exhaust Outlet.jpg)



(DSC00069L Exhaust Outlets.jpg)



(DSC00013L Quad Outlet Mounts.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00043L Quad Exhaust Outlets.jpg (66KB - 366 downloads)
Attachments DSC00019L Dual Exhaust Outlet.jpg (97KB - 369 downloads)
Attachments DSC00069L Exhaust Outlets.jpg (64KB - 355 downloads)
Attachments DSC00013L Quad Outlet Mounts.jpg (74KB - 339 downloads)
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BigBlockMopar
Posted 2008-12-31 11:56 AM (#157388 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Expert

Posts: 3565
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Location: Netherlands
To me, that convolute tubing screams late 70s enginebay to me and I've hated it ever since I first saw it. Definitly not a "Make-UP" in my eyes
Pretty much same goes for the cheap Spectre hose-wrap. Yuk!
On a driver, one way to get caught with fuel-spills in de engine-bay is to put that braided stuff in there so you'll never see the condition of the fuelline underneath. The rubber usually dries up and the hoses start to develop cracks and tears and can start leaking at/on/during the most inconvenient locations.

Other than that, nice info and some good tips there.
Thanks for sharing!
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 1:10 PM (#157395 - in reply to #157388)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

BigBlockMopar - 2008-12-31 5:56 PM To me, that convolute tubing screams late 70s enginebay to me and I've hated it ever since I first saw it. Definitly not a "Make-UP" in my eyes Pretty much same goes for the cheap Spectre hose-wrap. Yuk! On a driver, one way to get caught with fuel-spills in de engine-bay is to put that braided stuff in there so you'll never see the condition of the fuelline underneath. The rubber usually dries up and the hoses start to develop cracks and tears and can start leaking at/on/during the most inconvenient locations. Other than that, nice info and some good tips there. Thanks for sharing!

Nice open minded comment, Herman. You are right, many "Make-Ups" of today are crazy - not only on Cars. Some like it, other don't.

My aim with this tread is to motivate many Car owners to "upgrade" their cars with moderate effort, but visible effect. Here I just present what I did on my car now 10 Years ago, and I am happy when people look at, may find something useful and / or just state comments as you. Thank you.

Now to the Hoses: Yes, cannot see the condition of this hoses - nor of my veins!  Today hoses are not just Rubber as 50 Years ago. These old ones cracks and tears as you correctly alerted. The Material Technology has experienced extreme Developments in the last years. According the application there are Hoses in any other Material than Rubber (PVC, Polyurethan, Silicon, Elastomer, Nitril) for Longlife use. The fuelline hose I use is especially designed for this, it has already a stuff around, wraped again for uniformity reasons. Bought recently again for my new Dual Quad Project I will report here soon.

To the Spectre Hose Wrap: I liked this Design and have given my Argumets for. It was not a question of costs. Cheap doesn't mean bad. My Golden Coating on the Knights costs nothing, but is even more shiny than pure Gold.

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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 1:31 PM (#157397 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Screws 2: Self-tapping Screws are most efficient in the manufacturing process. They are self-centering in direction and angle, in opposite to Thead-Screws. Nevertheless I have substituted most self-tapping Screws by stainless / rustfree Thread-Screws.

- no damage of newly painted body (rust)

- some holes got too big

- option for other heads

- higher precision

For this I had to insert the nuts (on body before painting) using a Hand-Tool. The mirrored item is the unvisible clip used in Pic2. Some outside accessible Screws I replaced with Intra Hexagon Head Screws (?) for they cannot be removed with any pointy knife, as possible with Standard Cross Head  Screws (see Rear View Mirror).

 

 



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 1:55 AM




(DSC02232L Mirror Mount.jpg)



(DSC02231L Convertible Mold Mount.jpg)



(DSC02233L Convertible Rear Top Mount.jpg)



(DSC02230L Nut Press Tool .jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02232L Mirror Mount.jpg (41KB - 366 downloads)
Attachments DSC02231L Convertible Mold Mount.jpg (70KB - 373 downloads)
Attachments DSC02233L Convertible Rear Top Mount.jpg (48KB - 337 downloads)
Attachments DSC02230L Nut Press Tool .jpg (54KB - 360 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2008-12-31 5:10 PM (#157418 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Window Rubber: Restoring another US-Car years ago I used successfully the same method to replace the damaged and missing Window Rubber. The lower Door Windows Channel was totally rusted. On my DODGE, the Rubber of the Pivot Windows was broken, any attempt with a cutted Rubber Stripe failed, the Windows didn't hold enough, at the curves the Rubber was shrinked and looked very bad. Thus I used again my old method:

I put black Liquid Silicon Gasket in the chrome channels. Then I centered the Windows inserting small wood positioners inside, on the left and right side, and re-filled the gaps around with Liquid Silicon Gasket. After minimum one week or even longer the Silicon should be hardened trough, remaining softish, ready to cut out precisely the overflowed Silicon with a Knife (not cut towards the window!) .

Now, the Window is fixed all around, absolute water-proof and exact flush with the Chrome Channel, even more accurate than using the original rubber because custom-sailored. I suggest this also for Door Windows when the Rubber Profiles are not available, or for repair leaky Windshields, Remermber: Silicon Products cannot be painted!

 Any black Silicon Sealer can be used, should be heat resistant within -40 to +180deg, UV and all-wheather resistant (look at the Specs). Now I just found them ffrom the Producers of "Automotive Gasket" in the Internet and post it (sorry only in German). Same or similar  surely available in US.

 



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 2:12 AM




(DSC02241L Window Rubber.jpg)



(DSC02242L Cutting Out.jpg)



(DSC02243L Silicon Gasket.jpg)



(Automotive Gasket.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02241L Window Rubber.jpg (68KB - 394 downloads)
Attachments DSC02242L Cutting Out.jpg (63KB - 386 downloads)
Attachments DSC02243L Silicon Gasket.jpg (54KB - 370 downloads)
Attachments Automotive Gasket.jpg (109KB - 345 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-01 3:12 AM (#157468 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Rear View Mirror Glass: Restoring my Car I had to rechrome the Rear View Mirrors too and had for this to brake out the Glasses. I bought two bigger replacement Glasses as used for Trucks and let them cut excatly fitting in the now rechromed housing. To fix them I used again the before presented black Silicon - bonded and sealed in one! (on the Picture you can as well see in black the left and right Hood Positioners)

To add: I purchased two different Glasses, the one flat for the left side as used in all Mopar Mirrors, the other curved for the right side in order to get a wider viewing Angle (see Picture), as used in all todays cars.

Last Month I saw such a flat Mirror Replacement for Mopars in eBay, I post the Picture.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 3:18 AM




(DSC02246L New Mirror Glass.jpg)



(DSC02244L Curved Mirror Glass.jpg)



(2008 eBay Mirror Glass.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02246L New Mirror Glass.jpg (63KB - 363 downloads)
Attachments DSC02244L Curved Mirror Glass.jpg (40KB - 394 downloads)
Attachments 2008 eBay Mirror Glass.jpg (79KB - 365 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-01 1:10 PM (#157488 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Four-Way Warning Flasher: Most FWL-Cars doesn't have the Option of a Warning Flasher, none my Car when I got it. For personal and emergency reasons this was a must and added this Feature.

Four-Way means that the Flashing Signal goes in four Directions (please correct me if not): 1. to the Front Left Directional Light, 2. To the Front Right Directional Light, 3. To the Rear Left Directional (*and / or Brake) Light, 4. To the Rear Right Directional ("and / or Brake) Light. Thus, the Flasher has to provide four separate Current Lines. There will be one Input and four Outputs Connections. (* this depends if Brake Bulb is combined with Directional Signal)

The same Function I realized it simpler by using a One-Way Flasher Unit and four Diodes, as connected according the hand-drafted Diagram. The Input has to come directly from the Battery +12V to assure an operation in any circumstances. The Single (switched) Output of the Unit goes to the four (twisted) Diodes. The Outputs of the Diodes are then wired  to the four Directions, as described. All these 5 needed Wires are easy to found under the Dashboard - no extra long wires required! Check with an Instrument by Switching on and off the Functions (Brakes, Directional Light) and be sure you take the wires leading directly to the corresponding Bulb. The Flasher Unit should have a good visible Control-Lamp. Best I found was a Unit, mounted under the Dashboard, needind a single Hole 1/2" for mount, and pull-out for ON.

The used Diodes 1N5401 (100V/3A or higher Values), Standard Types available in any (?) electronic Shop (about USD1.00).

To the "Make-Up" or better to the Show-Effect: The Red Knob is the Flasher, the Silver Knob left-hand the Clock-Adjustment, and next you see the Switch S. This Swicht by-passes the Flashing (not the Diodes!!!), all Lamps around are continuous ON for "Show-Time" at evening, at Night or for Night-Pictures -Happy flashing with the Camera.

(The Headlamps have to be swichted ON separately, the last Switch L add the two other Headlamps).



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 2:55 PM




(DSC02279L Flasher Switch OFF.jpg)



(DSC02284L Flasher Switch ON.jpg)



(DSC02285L Diagram.jpg)



(DSC02288L Diodes 1N5401.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02279L Flasher Switch OFF.jpg (41KB - 355 downloads)
Attachments DSC02284L Flasher Switch ON.jpg (42KB - 408 downloads)
Attachments DSC02285L Diagram.jpg (60KB - 377 downloads)
Attachments DSC02288L Diodes 1N5401.jpg (32KB - 384 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-01 4:33 PM (#157507 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Location: SWITZERLAND

Fuel Temp Gauge: I was always used to know how many km the car will run when the Empty Fuel Alert Light went on. This I missed on my Dodge. When restoring the Instruments I added a bright Yellow LED. In the Fuel Tank I had to add an adjustable Switch and a separate wire leading to this LED. In the restoring Process this was not a big work. First I wanted design a Trigger-Circuit (2 - 3 Transistors) switching on the LED at an calibrated Resistor / Voltage Value on the existing line to  the Fuel Instrument. Thinking this value could vary due to instable Main-Voltage (the internal regulator works imprecisely) I decided to go the "traditional" way. When OFF the LED is not visible.

Now, the LED goes on always exactly at the same Fuel Level - in this regard happy driving and no Stress anymore!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-01 5:00 PM




(DSC02305L Fuel Temp Gauge.jpg)



(DSC02306L Empty LED ON.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02305L Fuel Temp Gauge.jpg (126KB - 388 downloads)
Attachments DSC02306L Empty LED ON.jpg (83KB - 375 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2009-01-01 5:33 PM (#157510 - in reply to #157488)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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Thank you very much for your information about the 4-way flasher Serge! I have been looking after an old system for to add on my car, but with your diagram and notes it will be easy to build one.
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-02 4:30 AM (#157543 - in reply to #157510)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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wizard - 2009-01-01 11:33 PM Thank you very much for your information about the 4-way flasher Serge! I have been looking after an old system for to add on my car, but with your diagram and notes it will be easy to build one.

I am glad that you Swen, as one of the many highly experienced FW Lookers on this site found something useful, as I wished for all old US-Car Owners. I know, not anythig in this Thread fits the taste of the Readers, but "There's no accounting for Taste". Many issues have already been discussed somewhere, I cannot know, others are still open. Thus, go on (and all other Car-Friends) keeping inspired by reading these and next next issues to come.  - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2009-01-02 9:59 AM (#157548 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Head Lamp Flash: I also was used to have the Head Lamp Flash Feature, especially as alert to others in critical situations, mostly on the Highwayss.

Fortunately I had already a Micro-Switch Unit I purchased "with great foresight" in double many Years ago for another US-Car. It needs one additional wire leading through the Steering Wheel Unit to a separate mounted Relais. As the Four-Way Warning Flasher this Option works at any time, by-passing all the Head Lamp Circuits. At ON all four Head Lamps (both Bulb Wires!) work together to get the maximum bright Alert Light. It is not recommended to let them ON for longer time, the bulbs may got hot and damaged.

Sometimes on the way just say "Hello" and flash the Head Lamps.





(DSC02307L Original Directional Lever.jpg)



(DSC02310L Switch Unit Headlamp Flash.jpg)



(DSC00010L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg)



(DSC00038L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02307L Original Directional Lever.jpg (26KB - 394 downloads)
Attachments DSC02310L Switch Unit Headlamp Flash.jpg (71KB - 359 downloads)
Attachments DSC00010L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg (58KB - 365 downloads)
Attachments DSC00038L Head Lamp Flash ON.jpg (82KB - 395 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-02 1:36 PM (#157567 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Radio: To repair a Radio is not easy when you are not familiar with nor have equipped for. Fortunately I have some Tools. What you can do: clean the Contacts and the Potentiometer using a Contact-Spray. I have soldered a shielded Cable with Cinch Connector between the Max and the Ground ot the Volume Control, in Serie with a Resistor of 100k. This is an AUX-Input (also Output without 100k) for external Audio-Devices. Can use an (portable) FM-Radio and connect it there. However the Sound Quality will not be much better due to the poor Output-Stage of the Radio.

The Loudspeaker was replaced by a better Quality one. The mounts fits but a corner of the Magnet must be removed or will touch the Dashboard.

As printable PDF-File post-attached the Technical Instructions with Schematic Diagramm: MOPAR Radio 856/857, 6 Pages in 3 Steps (cannot Download 500kB).  



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 5:24 AM




(DSC00051 MOPAR Radio.jpg)



(DSC00123L Radio Top View.jpg)



(DSC00122L Radio Bottom View.jpg)



(1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00051 MOPAR Radio.jpg (82KB - 395 downloads)
Attachments DSC00123L Radio Top View.jpg (93KB - 353 downloads)
Attachments DSC00122L Radio Bottom View.jpg (99KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments 1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857.jpg (142KB - 372 downloads)
Attachments 1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 1-2.pdf (175KB - 499 downloads)
Attachments 1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 3-4.pdf (186KB - 439 downloads)
Attachments 1959 MOPAR Radio 856-857 5-6.pdf (153KB - 413 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-02 2:59 PM (#157577 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Curved Windshield: I was already asked if I have a Curved Windshield. Yes, I had it, but mat as sandblasted. I coudn't find anywhere a Curved one and had to take what was available. Finally I learned to like the new straight Windshield beeng more slanted. In a certain angle from side view you even can't see if it is curved or not. In my Fantasy I have modified my Windshield to various Stretched Curved Models - the last Version 7 (Double Stretched) I feel exciting! Looking at, then back to the Original, the actual one seems to be very "old-fashioned". Just to remember: it's an Oldtimer!

In the Collection I left the entire Car Size to get an integrate Impression.

1. My Car today, 2. Original Curved, 3. Stretched, 4. Streched Curved, 5. More Stretched, 6. More Stretched Curved, 7. Double Stretched Curved (and additional Zoomed).



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 2:44 AM




(Ross Roy-Curved Windshield.jpg)



(Original Curved Windshield 1.jpg)



(Original Curved Windshield 2.jpg)



(Various Stretched Windshields.jpg)



(Double Stretched Windshield Zoomed.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Ross Roy-Curved Windshield.jpg (70KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments Original Curved Windshield 1.jpg (58KB - 383 downloads)
Attachments Original Curved Windshield 2.jpg (99KB - 359 downloads)
Attachments Various Stretched Windshields.jpg (190KB - 376 downloads)
Attachments Double Stretched Windshield Zoomed.jpg (79KB - 400 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 8:07 AM (#157646 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Location: SWITZERLAND

Seat Ash Tray: As already apllied on the Door Handles and the Rear Lamps, the Golden Sticker on the Seat Ash Tray has its own optical Effect - a  (Custom) Royal feeling for Smokers sitting behind.

An Interior matched Color would be nice too.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 8:12 AM




(DSC00010L Seat Ash Tray.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00010L Seat Ash Tray.jpg (75KB - 382 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 9:05 AM (#157650 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


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Bumper Bolts: Shiny polished Bumper Bolts underlines a nice restoration. In the Sun or at Spotlight they may shine as small Brillants around the car. Some are less visible, other more.

There are different Types, the mostly used hardened Steel with a stainless Cover, then the rechromed and the all stainless / rustfree ones to be handeled and polished as the other Screws. For the main Front and Rear Bumpers I used the "covered" ones, on the sides and up-side the smaller rechromed ones I had already. Do not tighten to hard as I did: somewhere the Chrome of the Bumper started to brake around the Head, the Support-Arm being not exactly parallel with the Bumper. Should put a Nylon Washer for compensation.

I like the last picture and post it at higher Quality.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 9:10 AM




(DSC02324L Bumper Bolts.jpg)



(DSC02321L Front Bumper Bolts.jpg)



(DSC02323.L Side Bumper Bolt.jpg)



(DSC00006L Rear Bumper Support.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02324L Bumper Bolts.jpg (71KB - 387 downloads)
Attachments DSC02321L Front Bumper Bolts.jpg (56KB - 396 downloads)
Attachments DSC02323.L Side Bumper Bolt.jpg (74KB - 383 downloads)
Attachments DSC00006L Rear Bumper Support.jpg (140KB - 366 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 1:46 PM (#157673 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

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Front Directional Parking Lamps: All the Insiders will have noticed that the Directional Lamps on my 1959 Dodge are not Original. The Lenses were partly broken, the Chrome-Plating on them washed-out and the Bulb Sockets corroded.

Then the Swiss Car Inspection claimed, these Lamps need a viewing angle of minimum 150deg (the bulbs are recessed and not visible from the side). I was committed to add two external Lamp I mounted provisorly with the Side Bumper Bolts - very ugly! Of course, after the Check I removed them.

In addition I could not find replacement Lenses. Recently one NOS went for USD 150.00 on eBay (!). The Reproductions I saw are correct in Shape, but not galvanic rechromed (grey painted), therefore not shiny as the Original. May-be today there are nicer ones. I had to find another Solution.

I purchased Lamps similar to the external Lamps, but with White Lenses. Then my Imagination led me to a Black Silicon Pot, fitting exactly into the rear Side of the Directional Lamps Housing, and sealing in all around without any add-ons. The Lens mounted to be 3mm under the Front Housing, as before not visible from the Side, but performing the Inspections Demand. For a brighter Light I painted ths Inside in white. The Lamp is water-proof, is quite in-line with the Cars Design and looks pretty nice.

 





(DSC00040L Old Original Lense.jpg)



(DSC02315L External Directional Lamps.jpg)



(DSC02317L Silicon Cement Pot.jpg)



(DSC02326L Items Overview.jpg)



(DSC02329L Interior Lamp.jpg)



(DSC00088L New Directional Lamp.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00040L Old Original Lense.jpg (82KB - 401 downloads)
Attachments DSC02315L External Directional Lamps.jpg (51KB - 407 downloads)
Attachments DSC02317L Silicon Cement Pot.jpg (79KB - 361 downloads)
Attachments DSC02326L Items Overview.jpg (75KB - 383 downloads)
Attachments DSC02329L Interior Lamp.jpg (95KB - 384 downloads)
Attachments DSC00088L New Directional Lamp.jpg (113KB - 404 downloads)
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Rebels-59
Posted 2009-01-03 3:39 PM (#157685 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK
I have seen the front of your 59 many times on here and NEVER noticed your Front Directional Parking Lamps where altered, They L@@K very nice,,

Keep this thread going, i enjoy reading what you have done, and a few things i may also do to my 59 Coronet..

I,m not too keen on Your Finger Nail Colour Though..........LOL

P.S.. I bought a Pair of NOS Non Genuine lenses a couple years back on US Ebay for $15, They are very close to the Original, Although i have,nt fitted them as mine are good, But the seller listed them as 1958, So no one Bid,, His mistake but my Gain........

Edited by Rebels-59 Coronet 2009-01-03 3:42 PM
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 5:19 PM (#157699 - in reply to #157685)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Rebels-59 Coronet - 2009-01-03 9:39 PM I have seen the front of your 59 many times on here and NEVER noticed your Front Directional Parking Lamps where altered, They L@@K very nice,, Keep this thread going, i enjoy reading what you have done, and a few things i may also do to my 59 Coronet.. I,m not too keen on Your Finger Nail Colour Though..........LOL P.S.. I bought a Pair of NOS Non Genuine lenses a couple years back on US Ebay for $15, They are very close to the Original, Although i have,nt fitted them as mine are good, But the seller listed them as 1958, So no one Bid,, His mistake but my Gain........

Your remarkable Comment as a 59 Coronet Owner confirms how authentic this Parking Lamp looks. One reason more to copy this in the case of a trouble with the Lenses. These Finger Nails belong to my Stepdaughter (15), I needed a third hand for show the matching Diameter in taking the picture. Not easy, because I have to take care not beeing mirrored in this shiny Chrome. Next time she must change to another Color!

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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 5:43 PM (#157705 - in reply to #157280)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

I wrote:

"Dual Antenna Gaskets: With my Car I got a complete Set of Rubber Parts. Most of them I could not use, the Gaskets for the Dual Antennas being too big."

I just found these new, never used Antenna Gaskets. Now I wanted check if I am not too pedantic, taking a non restored original Antenna Socket as reference. The front Point is adjusted to fit correctly. The rear is about 3mm too long. Judge yourself!

In Comparison my Gaskets are "Rolex" for nearly free.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-04 1:29 AM




(DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber1.jpg)



(DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber2.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber1.jpg (60KB - 345 downloads)
Attachments DSC02334L Rear Antenna Rubber2.jpg (56KB - 305 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-03 7:02 PM (#157713 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Rear Lamp Gaskets: No comments to the old / original Gasket.

I found High Precision Hydraulic Rings, self-centering inside, outside not overlapping at all, and they fit as tailored. The black Height of 1/4" is a nice separation between the White Body and the Rechromed Housing.

Another inconspicious "Make-Up".



Edited by sermey 2009-01-03 7:21 PM




(DSC02339L Old-New Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg)



(DSC02342L New Rear Lamp Gasket Zoomed.jpg)



(DSC00091L New Rear Lamp Gasket.jpg)



(DSC00090L Left Rear Lamps Housings.jpg)



(DSC00008L Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02339L Old-New Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg (36KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments DSC02342L New Rear Lamp Gasket Zoomed.jpg (47KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments DSC00091L New Rear Lamp Gasket.jpg (42KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments DSC00090L Left Rear Lamps Housings.jpg (82KB - 339 downloads)
Attachments DSC00008L Rear Lamp Gaskets.jpg (91KB - 318 downloads)
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wbower3
Posted 2009-01-04 2:19 PM (#157777 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Walter passed away on Jul 29, 2014. We will miss you, Walt!

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Sermy, I agree with Clive, KEEP this thread going!!! Walt
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-04 4:47 PM (#157801 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Power Window Switches: These items are very hard to find. And when you have or found them, some Main-Connectors may be missing, often very corroded, bad for a good electrical Contact needed for proper Window lift. Thus, I modificated the single Pin Connectors, also in order to match to the dicker wire in Double Diameter.

There are many  Single Pin Connectors available in Size and in Shape. Round Connectors offer a better electrical Contact due to the bigger surface around the Pin. Here I used the biggest Round one (Yellow). Bonding to the wire it needs a special Handtool, or best is to solder them for best Tensile Strength, especially whe a high flexible Wire is used. Then I cut the Front of the single Male Contacts and soldered them on each Pin of the Power Switch (see picture).

Now the Power Window Cables can directly be connected to and removed  from the Power Window Switch as any other Cable. The missing or corroded Main Socket is not needed anymore. These Single Cable are of course as before accessible outside the Door Panel, when removing the Switch. Recommended  to label the Cables, the + Battery Line always to be Red.

This "soldered" Pin Contacting can be used as well on the Instruments Panel.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-04 5:12 PM




(DSC02361L Power Window Switch Connector.jpg)



(DSC02358L Round Pin Connectors.jpg)



(DSC02359L Cut Male Connector.jpg)



(DSC02365L Soldered Pin & Wire Connected.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02361L Power Window Switch Connector.jpg (70KB - 338 downloads)
Attachments DSC02358L Round Pin Connectors.jpg (55KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments DSC02359L Cut Male Connector.jpg (26KB - 334 downloads)
Attachments DSC02365L Soldered Pin & Wire Connected.jpg (50KB - 322 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-05 9:54 AM (#157860 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Fuel Pump: Many of you may have encountered the same Situation. You are attending a Car Show, enjoy a nice Day, and are even Candidate for an Award. Later Afternoon you go sitting in your Car, to drive it in to the Ramp or for go Home – many people around watching you and waiting to see the Car drive away. A first attempt to start the car,  a second time, a third time again, sometimes until one Minute till running  – what a Disgrace in this admired Car!

Firstly I decided to put a Replacement Electric Fuel Pump. Later I thought, one Electric Element more in the Pump risking to fail one day, and remembering my aim to restore at anytime to its Original when I should like. I searched for another Solution:

I added a second (electric) Fuel Pump to the already existing (mechanic) Original one in parallel. It is a Round Type with axial Ports, Inlet down-side, Outlet up-side, mounted by a Hose Bracket to the lower Generators Arm. The two Inlets using a Branch Connector (Y) lead to the Fuel Tank Line. Each of the other two Outlets are provided with an one-way Valve before joining together by using another Branch Connector (Y), according the Picture “Fuel Flow Diagram”. The closest +12V ignition-switched Electric Power is diverged from the near Wire leading to the Electric Choke, the Ground (-) to the Bracket Screw. The Picture's View is Down-Up, the second Pump is hardly visible from Top.

To know: As a matter of physical principle, at running engine only one Fuel Pump delivers Fuel to the Carburetor. It's the one generating the higher Pressure, forcing the other Valve to close and avoiding the Fuel to backflow. When one Pump is failing, the other Pump will take over at any instance.

First switch ON the Ignition, listen to the hardly audible buzz of the running Electric Fuel Pump. When the Sound lowers in Frequency means the Carburetor is adequately supplied with Fuel and the Engine ready to start. Can see when the Glass Fuel Filter has no Air anymore. Then go on by switching to the Starter Position. Now, the Car starts immediately at any circumstances. Furthermore, the already activated and thus pre-heated Electric Choke turns the Engine earlier to the lower Idle Speed.

Just start and drive away – and happy End of the Car Shows to come!



Edited by sermey 2009-01-05 10:44 AM




(DSC02376L Replacement Electric Fuel Pump.jpg)



(DSC02375L Fuel Flow Diagram.jpg)



(DSC02372L Dual Fuel Pumps.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02376L Replacement Electric Fuel Pump.jpg (56KB - 344 downloads)
Attachments DSC02375L Fuel Flow Diagram.jpg (48KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments DSC02372L Dual Fuel Pumps.jpg (78KB - 328 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-05 5:34 PM (#157909 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
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Location: SWITZERLAND

Power Windows Lift: This Option I won’t miss on a Convertible, when driving from a Land-Street to the Highway, being exposed all around the Head to heavy wind. At open Top all Windows up reduces the Inside Wind and the arising Noise considerably.

 On the other side they are a Show Element for Cars at this time.

At Oldtimer Shows you can see many badly aligned and particularly “tired” Power Windows, as very old walking people. The rear Windows are more affected than the Front ones. This difference is mainly due to the longer electrical Wires needed, but also to the Rubber Channel’s Friction they have to overcome, notably  the 1957 – 59 ForwardLook Car Versions Convertible and 2-Doors. My ambition was to achieve a Down-Up Time of less than 5 Seconds, and a Window not vibrating in any Position.

After some technical Investigation I came to the Conclusion, that the Original Window Motor, being powered at the lower Limit, could just not meet my demands. I found others, bigger ones, I had to adapt them mechanically. Then I restored the small Window Rollers and all Window Channels.

The Window Channels I squeezed in Height and Width in order to get a clearance of about 1mm to the Rollers. This required a precise alignment to the Doors (Front) and the Body (Rear), so as the Windows could be moved easily by Hand up and down, before installing the Motors. The Channels and Rollers I lubricated with Silicon Grease. The wires I changed to double Diameter and adapted the Pin Connections to the Power Window Switches as already posted earlier, all this for a minimum Voltage Loss due to the Higher Currents. The Main Power Supply I attached at the Convertible Top Switch Unit, after the Thermostatic Interruptor, but before the Top Switch, in order to disconnect the Circuit in Lock Situations or excessive Current drain.

Now I could start the first Test: The Windows lifted up and Down like “young Dogs”, achieving my stated goal, but . . . .

At the lower and upper End, as the Windows are forced to stop by the Stoppers at full Electric Power, the Motor Gear spun risking to damage the Pinion. Fortunately I found the sole correct Solution: at each End, up and down, I mounted a High Current Micro Switch (25A) with a long Lever  (Picture from Internet). Instead to adjust the mechanical Stoppers for End Positions, I have accordingly only to bend the Levers of the Micro Switches to stop correctly.

Now:

- Fine Adjustment and precice Position of the Window at “open” and “closed”.

- No excessive Current at Stop, saving the Switch Contacts

- No needless mechanical Pression and thus Deformation in the End Positions.

- No “stroke with a hammer” at End Stop, but smooth and soundless.

- The maximum Down-Up Time is 4 Seconds.

- No Time Difference on Rear Window Right, when operated with Main Driver Switch or local Switch (longest wire).

But must admit that the Rear Windows upper Edge may injure the Rubber Channel when not aligned and lifting up, due to the Powerful Motor. Edge should be rounded.

 (Sorry that could not take Inside Pictures)



Edited by sermey 2009-01-06 5:10 AM




(Power Micro Switch L.jpg)



(DSC02378L Windows Left Up.jpg)



(DSC02381L Window up Rubber Parallelity.jpg)



(DSC02383L Front Left Windows Alignment.jpg)



(DSC02379L Rear Right Windows Alignment.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Power Micro Switch L.jpg (60KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments DSC02378L Windows Left Up.jpg (75KB - 307 downloads)
Attachments DSC02381L Window up Rubber Parallelity.jpg (70KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments DSC02383L Front Left Windows Alignment.jpg (82KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments DSC02379L Rear Right Windows Alignment.jpg (66KB - 320 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-06 10:05 AM (#157980 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Horns: The rechromed Covers in Combination with the painted Body looks great, even at other Colors than Golden. This Improvement makes only sense when the Horns are mounted on the Top as shown. Otherwise they are not visible, and even may disturb the appearing of the Front Grill’s Profile when located behind. In that case the Horns are at best in Black.





(DSC02386L Chrome Golden Horn.jpg)



(DSC02391L Horn Positions.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02386L Chrome Golden Horn.jpg (84KB - 323 downloads)
Attachments DSC02391L Horn Positions.jpg (88KB - 332 downloads)
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wbower3
Posted 2009-01-06 10:53 AM (#157985 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Walter passed away on Jul 29, 2014. We will miss you, Walt!

Posts: 5358
50001001001002525
Location: Heaven Above (Formerly Oklahoma City,OK)
Hi Serge. What kind of fuel pump relay did you install on the electric pump, and did you also install some sort of device to shut off power to the pump in event of collision or other accident? I like electric pumps but I'm concerned about accidents and fire and the electric pump continuing to run on ...... Walt
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-06 11:15 AM (#157989 - in reply to #157985)
Subject: Re: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

wbower3 - 2009-01-06 4:53 PM Hi Serge. What kind of fuel pump relay did you install on the electric pump, and did you also install some sort of device to shut off power to the pump in event of collision or other accident? I like electric pumps but I'm concerned about accidents and fire and the electric pump continuing to run on ...... Walt

Walt, there is no relay nor a shut off switch. The electric pump will be off when the Ignition Switch is set to off. I don't know if a separate (automatic) shut-off is imperatively needed for the case of Collision. I was even not thinking at and  never heard about this issue. It's a matter to give some thought to and start a discussion in another thread(?).

Thank you for this indication. - SERGE -

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sermey
Posted 2009-01-06 12:18 PM (#157994 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Spot Killer: You have certainly noticed the pure black Color on the Front Medaillon. This didn’t look always as nice, especially after a longer Trip. Color may be partly removed. This happens as well to other painted items of the Car.

To remove this Spots “on the Road” just use a standard water-proof Felt Marker. They are available in various Colors and Sizes. If the Color doesn’t match, use the one with the darker note, will be less visible than the brighter one. Always best matched Color: Black is black!

This Correction can be useful for the Exterior as for the Interior. It’s a fast way, dries instantly and doesn’t dish up. Thus, keep your Felt Marker always ready in the Car.

This is verbally an “applied Make-Up”.





(DSC00053L Never Spots Killed.jpg)



(DSC00022L Spot Killer.jpg)



(DSC02419L Water-Proof Felt Markers.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC00053L Never Spots Killed.jpg (43KB - 312 downloads)
Attachments DSC00022L Spot Killer.jpg (64KB - 301 downloads)
Attachments DSC02419L Water-Proof Felt Markers.jpg (40KB - 312 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-06 2:22 PM (#158008 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Power Windows Micro Switch: I have found the (broken) Test Switch (25A) and post some Pictures on special Request.

The Switch is mounted at the same side as the Window Channels with two Scews, on the left or on the right side, according the Windows side. The Lever is optional (the two small mounting Screws are missing in the Pics). I have added a Side Arm for the Windows Pressing. The Interruption happens within the flexible Range of the Lever, no mechanical Forces on the Switch at all, a smooth Transition. The lower existing original Positioner is to be adjusted just to touch the Windows Edge when stopped. Let there the damping Rubber anyway.

The wires are connected at the Switches sides and fixed with the Screw underneath, as well known from plug connectors. The bigger flexible Wire as showed in "Power Window Switches" is correct for these Holes (tin the Ends).The yellow Meter simulates the Windows Edge, activating the Switch when lifting downwards. By bending the Lever (or moving the Switch) the Stop Position is fine-adjustable.  There are two Micro Switches per Window, one for the DOWN and the other for the UP Stop.

A simple and reliable Installation, and it works excellent. Good Luck.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-06 11:24 PM




(DSC02424l Micro Switch No Lever.jpg)



(DSC02422L Micro Switch Levers.jpg)



(DSC02423L Switch Side View.jpg)



(DSC02425L Wire Connections.jpg)



(DSC02426L Downward Switching .jpg)



(DSC02430L Micro Switch Label.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02424l Micro Switch No Lever.jpg (63KB - 308 downloads)
Attachments DSC02422L Micro Switch Levers.jpg (68KB - 295 downloads)
Attachments DSC02423L Switch Side View.jpg (48KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments DSC02425L Wire Connections.jpg (63KB - 292 downloads)
Attachments DSC02426L Downward Switching .jpg (35KB - 305 downloads)
Attachments DSC02430L Micro Switch Label.jpg (47KB - 301 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-07 8:14 AM (#158093 - in reply to #157980)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Paint for Horns and Air Cleaner: On special Request.

Golden: KRYLON Brass Metallic 2204 (is brighter than the Gold Metallic 1706)

Transparent: KRYLON Clear Varnish Coating 7001

To know: The first sprayed brillant Gold  will be affected by the transparent Coating. A among many Tests the best Result got with 7001, the 2204 dried out. If not transparent coated the Metallic Surface Brillancy diminishes, even may disappear when cleaning or touching. This second Layer apply at least two times, later it can be polished when get mat.

 

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sermey
Posted 2009-01-07 10:57 AM (#158100 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Power Lock: This is another Feature, as the Power Window Lifts, I won’t miss in my ’59 Dodge.

There are various Kits available with all needed items, including the wiring Harness. I saw even Kits including a Remote Control. What you see is a four Door Kit. The Single Units are mounted inside the Door, under the Door Lock, very easy to install. The only Handicap when there is no wiring at all to the Doors. A high flexible, floating Connection.near the lower Door Hinge helps. Thinking ahead I had already provided many supplement Cables when wiring the Power Window Lifts (for Loudspeakers, Power Lock and various Control / Switch Units when required).

This Power Lock Option is not visible at all and doesn’t need any exterior Switch. All Doors unlock when the Car is being opened by the Key from Outside, or by the Inside Door Handle (Up). They lock when closing correspondingly. Thus, the Power Locks can be activated from outside at open Windows too by moving the Inside Door Handles up or down.

To Know: In this Configuration all Doors have the same State, closed or opened. When disconnecting the Battery and then reconnect, for security reasons, all Locks are turned to the Closed State.

Now, not a visible Improvement, but no Problems anymore with a closed Door on the other Side. And it works!

(Sorry here again, could not take Pictures from inside)



Edited by sermey 2009-01-07 11:27 AM




(Power Lock Kit .jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments Power Lock Kit .jpg (84KB - 279 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-08 4:24 AM (#158207 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND
Air Filter: Here the same Color Combination as the Horns. The rechromed Center would fit very well to any other Color.



(DSC00070L Chrome Golden Air Filter.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments DSC00070L Chrome Golden Air Filter.jpg (118KB - 297 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-08 2:32 PM (#158241 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Emblem Studs: In Pot Metal they are damageable when mounting the Emblem using the Self Tapping Nuts another time..And what a Frustration when a Stud go broken! To prevent this I tapped Screw Threadings on any Emblem. Further more it's a smoother feeling to tighten softly.

Sample shown on the Chevron Emblem.

To know: Side Emblems are mostly in Duals as LH and RH. Some of them can be mounted at any Side, when drilling additional Holes. Finding later a NOS Rechromed Chevron, I drilled the additional Holes. Now there are to LH Emblems, not visible at all. Applying this way all 1959 Rear Lamps are interchangeable as well.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-08 5:56 PM




(DSC02482L Cut Thread.jpg)



(DSC02477L LH - LR.jpg)



(DSC02475L Symmetric Holes.jpg)



(DSC02470L Mounts Chevron Emblem.jpg)



(DSC00115L Chevron Emblem.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02482L Cut Thread.jpg (71KB - 298 downloads)
Attachments DSC02477L LH - LR.jpg (75KB - 265 downloads)
Attachments DSC02475L Symmetric Holes.jpg (17KB - 299 downloads)
Attachments DSC02470L Mounts Chevron Emblem.jpg (73KB - 266 downloads)
Attachments DSC00115L Chevron Emblem.jpg (66KB - 272 downloads)
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sermey
Posted 2009-01-08 5:26 PM (#158254 - in reply to #156081)
Subject: RE: "Make-Up" your Car!


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1041
100025
Location: SWITZERLAND

Moulding Clips: As the self-tapping Screws, these items had been designed for a fast Manufacturing, and are not suitable for an outstanding Car. They damage the Paint (as the self tapping Screws), go rusty and don’t tighten the Moulding sufficiently (rattling). The rust is programmed, the Mouldings are loosely and thus not close to the Body. And there should be no Gap at all!

I found stainless / rustfree and springy Clips in various Sizes being used to fix Aluminium Covering Profiles. Adding a Screw, attached by soldering (tin), this was the ideal Solution.

Now, these are not Clips anymore, but rather Clamps. Inside comes first the Grommet for sealing, then the Washer, and finally the Wing Screw, as well known from the Dual Rear Antenna, for easy fixing by Hand without any Tool. Of course all in stainless / rustfree Metal.

By cutting the Sides, they can be fitted to match the Width of any Moulding in the Range, even when the Clips are asymmetric, see “Replacement Sample”. For the Wide Door Mouldings I used two opposed Clips, every 3”, enabling to mount the Moulding from Outside: Down hook in -> push up, and then Up hook in -> push down = Fixed, and adjustable Left < > Right, as Up < > Down due to the Spring Property. They can perfectly be aligned each to other and at any time (see earlier Pictures of the Car)

This new Clip is to be tightened till to the Body in benefit to its curved shape and springy Attribute.

No loosy Mouldings anymore, no Gaps at all, and last but not least: A very pleasant Assembling.



Edited by sermey 2009-01-08 5:53 PM




(DSC02439L Various Rusty Clips.jpg)



(DSC02444L Clips for Alu-Profile.jpg)



(DSC02445L Clips Assembly.jpg)



(DSC02450L Soldered Bolts-Various Sizes.jpg)



(DSC02488L Application.jpg)



(DSC02489L Replacement Sample.jpg)



(DSC02505L Gap Rear Fins.jpg)



(Riveting Double Clips L.jpg)



(DSC02510L Gap Door Moulding.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DSC02439L Various Rusty Clips.jpg (74KB - 277 downloads)
Attachments DSC02444L Clips for Alu-Profile.jpg (43KB - 283 downloads)
Attachments DSC02445L Clips Assembly.jpg (52KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments DSC02450L Soldered Bolts-Various Sizes.jpg (57KB - 281 downloads)
Attachments DSC02488L Application.jpg (50KB - 281 downloads)
Attachments DSC02489L Replacement Sample.jpg (44KB - 269 downloads)
Attachments DSC02505L Gap Rear Fins.jpg (46KB - 285 downloads)
Attachments Riveting Double Clips L.jpg (30KB - 268 downloads)
Attachments DSC02510L Gap Door Moulding.jpg (31KB - 272 downloads)
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