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1957 Desoto Adventurer Convertible Jump to page : < 1 2 3 4 5 6 ... > Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | Hello Guys , this is my 1957 Desoto Adventurer Convertible , I finally publish photos....I bought this car from a dear friend collectorman, I started the restoration about 4 months ago, really difficult restoration.... if anyone has info of this car, I am pleased Raffaele | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | You're getting right to it it seems! Congrats and good luck with the cool project. | ||
MoparLasse |
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Veteran Posts: 108 Location: North of Sweden | Geez, you got a lot of work ahead of you... I´m sure it will come out as good-looking as your E. What´s the story behind the car? Lasse | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | This Adventurer was sold the first time in Long Island, then other owners in Iowa, found more than twenty years ago in a farming area without engine .....grew a tree in the engine compartment !!! , no joke ! purchased by an Italian collector, but had never been initiated work...now I'm rebuilding the body ... but the poor condition...I miss several parts, windshield molding ... convertible frame is very rust,if anyone know other information of the history of this car..... | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy |
picture of the car in the United States about 15 years ago
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MoparLasse |
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Veteran Posts: 108 Location: North of Sweden | Is this the car that "roadkillontheweb" sold a couple of years ago? Lasse | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Looks like the car might have been white, that someone re-painted in black. It would certainly be interesting if your car could speak, to relate its working life history. Looks like it lead a real working-man's existence, and may have been parked outside for much of its lifetime, too. Now, wouldn't it be great to sit around a roaring fireplace, with suitable anti-freeze in hand, and listen to the stories it could tell?? Edited by d500neil 2009-12-22 5:58 PM | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | That is a Cool Project raffaele,, Please post Updated Pics of the Progress as and when you do it.... | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4034 Location: Connecticut | How is the frame ? With so much floor rust, the upsweep on the frame must be in pretty poor condition. I'm sure that the X-piece is reusable, due to its thickness. Ron | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | Brave of you to undertake such a project, in a place where parts are unobtainium no less... one small comment - I'd have rolled the factory beads in the trunk floor for rigidity and correctness, but that's just me. | ||
phins |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1172 Location: bradenton florida | Wow looks like i'm in good company. you have a head start on me there. where did you get your lower quater panels? i'm going to have to replace my interior floors and trunk also. | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | what is " factory beads on the floor " ???? ...frame is in very good condition, although the car has been abandoned for many years , only little rust on the rear rail , thanks for your comment | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | rear quarter panel can be purchased on ebay | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | yes this is Desoto from Roadkillontheweb !! | ||
moparjimmy |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 370 Location: Mishawaka, IN. | Hey Raffaele great start on you conv. also if anybody would need an X brace I have one it came from a 59 d-500 conv. not much was saveable in the rear but it helped repair the front of my 59 4 dr sed. and would sell the left over X member. Best of luck with your restoration. Jimmy | ||
mogge65 |
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Expert Posts: 1295 Location: Nasco , SWEDEN | Thank´s for sharing Ralf! you are in my opinion a the great mopar restorer ! Now you have a chance to prove you are one of The Best! Merry christmas! Edited by mogge65 2009-12-23 2:23 AM | ||
57desoto |
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Expert Posts: 1488 Location: New Castle PA | Your Adventurer was assembled on 3-20-1957, and Neil, you're very observant. The car was originally a PLP paint code, and so should have a gold roof and lower color sweep, with a white body. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13042 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Ma cazzo di Buddha, che macchina! Edited by wizard 2009-12-23 3:47 PM | ||
BigBlockMopar |
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Expert Posts: 3575 Location: Netherlands | raffaplymouth - 2009-12-23 1:42 AM what is " factory beads on the floor " ???? He means; why didn't you make 'grooves' in the sheetmetal? Just like the factory did to make the metal stronger and not have it make an "oil can"-noise when you put some weight on it and the metal bends. | ||
wild440 |
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Veteran Posts: 204 Location: canandaigua, ny | Every time I look at this forum I am amazed at how many knowledgeable people there are in here. this desoto project looks like quite a job , looks like a dedicated person is up for the task WOW I am sure it will be awesome when done. Thanks for the entertainment. corey drivem enjoyem | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | Thanks to everyone for the comments! , Here is the frame ...Merry Christmas !!! | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Raffaele, how many leafsprings does your car have, 6 1/2 ??? What are the part numbers for the torsion bars (seen on the extreme-end of them)? | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | I have not disassembled the chassis, Monday i check | ||
1959 Belvedere Conv |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1107 Location: Arvada, Colorado (NW Denver Metro Area) | How is the Convertible top roof rails on your Convert? I looks like a few were bent the wrong way. I have a couple spare parts of the rear side top assembly if you are in need of any. I bought a replacement floor pan panel off of ebay from a guy in Detroit that had the stress supporting groves hand-machined rolled in and it was perfect panel to splice into the floor of my 59 Plymouth Convert. These grooves do indeed keep the floor pan from "oil canning" and actually give the floor additional strength by these stamped-in grooves. My father, and old Chrysler Stamping Engineer, says it has to do with twisting and torsional vectoring by putting in these grooves in different directions. All I know is it works for flat pans like trunks and floors. Even inner door structures have designed in strengthening contours to provide extra strength. Good luck with the restoration on this Convert! John | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | moparjimmy - 2009-12-23 11:12 PM Hey Raffaele great start on you conv. also if anybody would need an X brace I have one it came from a 59 d-500 conv. not much was saveable in the rear but it helped repair the front of my 59 4 dr sed. and would sell the left over X member. Best of luck with your restoration. Jimmy ****************************************** The Dodge X-member, while it will fit the DeSoto-Chrysler frame, is not the same as the factory DeSoto-Chrysler X-member. The Dodge-Plymouth unit is notably smaller in the I-beam dimensions. I am not sure how these differences would affect the driveline, but clearances are pretty tight and consideration would have to be given to whether the driveshaft might not clear. | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | I love threads like this showing "not-for the faint-of heart" restorations...this one is truly being brought back from the dead! Helps a lot of us realize that our own heaps might eventually see the light of day! Edited by firedome 2009-12-26 9:06 AM | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy |
Hello Guys !! , Other pics of 57 ADV , Left door had a shock , i have divided in half , i have sandblast , and change the cover with repro parts
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fast59desoto |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 929 Location: Finger Lakes NY | shes really starting to take shape where did you find repro door skins? Edited by fast59desoto 2009-12-31 4:12 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Raffaele, if you and Sven-the-Wizard were ever to get together, I think that the world would fall off of its axis! | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | raffaplymouth - 2009-12-31 10:30 PM I think from Bob and Gary in San Bernardino CA, was with the car, the car was disassembled 20 years ago ...when I purchased were together many new and repro parts .....no one has started working | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | d500 you're right !!!! | ||
suburban61 |
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Expert Posts: 1480 Location: Australia | just amazing... i think people that are technically minded and can do this kind of work are very very fortunate and talented... keep up the good work... adriana | ||
dukeboy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6203 Location: Big pimpin' | suburban61 - 2009-12-31 10:17 PM just amazing... i think people that are technically minded and can do this kind of work are very very fortunate and talented... keep up the good work... adriana :) Not fortunate, just Driven....I didn't know how to paint, do bodywork, engines/trans', etc., but i knew I wanted the car and I had to learn....Where there's a will, there's a way... | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Dukie's right. I bought my first oldie long before I had a clue. Anything beyond putting gas in it was a black hole of total mystery. But starting with an oil change and just taking things apart to clean them up, one thing after another became clear. You start buying some tools and making some like minded friends and pretty soon you are all sharing information and learning. Doing this level of bodywork is one of my favorite stages of restoration. I was scared as hell of it before someone walked me through it. I think this was the real turning point for me in tackling a car. Once I had it explained to me that even though it looks like a car to "us", it is really just a pile of metal to a welder / fabricator. just a bunch of cuts and bends and welds. Nothing to be intimidated by. | ||
w.weiland |
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Expert Posts: 1481 Location: Lordstown, Ohio | raffaplymouth - 2009-12-31 3:40 PM
Hello Guys !! , Other pics of 57 ADV , Left door had a shock , i have divided in half , i have sandblast , and change the cover with repro parts
A quick word of adice, You may already know, but I am going to present it anyways. Fit the door shell on the car first, After you remove skins the shell will flex, exspecilly the ones without crash bars in them. Alos used a metal adhesive when you put it on. It is stronger then welding and creates a barrier for water so it will not penitrate the seams that you cleaned up. You have to let the door set a few hrs before handling it, meaning trying to twist or such. Lord Fusor makes a great bonding adhesive Wayne | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | thanks for your advice Waine , you mean to put sealant before folding the edge ?? here in italy, Is possible find the body sealer .... | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy |
the frame is cleaned. intends to put the sealant into the edge where I indicated with the arrow ???
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w.weiland |
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Expert Posts: 1481 Location: Lordstown, Ohio | Sealant is ok, but the down side of it is, if you need to twist or or the door moves that bond/barrier will be broken allowing the possiblity of corrision to start. If you got a supplier that you get you body materials from such as 3M, LORD Fusor, SEM ask for metal bond adhesive with glass beads. You would put it all the way around that edge, after bothsides are rough up (50grit) to bare steel. Put the adhesive on both pieces with small brush coating both components so no bare steel is shown . Put your skin on, and roll the edge over. You will NOT have to do any welding after it cures clean it up and address the edges/prime/paint Metal adheives have been used on aircraft for years. Its a common practice with cars today also Wayne | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | 're right, but with this procedure you can not afford to fail the roll, if you have to reopen after... a tragedy ...... or not ?? | ||
w.weiland |
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Expert Posts: 1481 Location: Lordstown, Ohio | If you roll the edge properly there should be no reason to open that seam. Thats why it important to fit the door to the car and if your flexable enough roll it while on the car. If you got one of the rollers used with a air ratchet, make sure you clean real good when done, even if you use a hammer/dolly clean them too. Rubber gloves might be a good idea also Wayne | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | You guys are either really brave or ..... ! So, how does one take the skin off a door ? Is the skin destroyed in the process ? Tell more about the tools used to do this operation. This is new territory for me. Door skins, .... are they available as reproduction panels ? | ||
w.weiland |
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Expert Posts: 1481 Location: Lordstown, Ohio | Common practice for removing skins, is to grind the edge until the seam splits, or you see 3 layers of metal. On older cars such as these. you will not find adhesives, sealers or ahything, but rust inside them. Thats why older cars the doors began to "flap" they rotted away. Water got between the seams, no where to go and corrosion starts. This is real common in the area in which I live. You have salt on roads during winter and now some sort of chemical that they spray on the roads is worse. If one wast oremove a skin, its border line foolish to me. The only reason to replace a skin is for the damage being more severe that its not worth straightening, or its rusted. So if you found a good door with a nice skin, you should just use that door. I don't know if this caused more confusion or helps. The way I see it, is if its made of wood steel plastic or alum you can do anything with it Wayne | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | I have no shortage of doors. We don't have that rust problem. So, to walk through the process anyway ... You grind the edge to peel the old skin, thereby destroying the skin by losing that bent over flange part that you would need to put the skin back on, right ? So, with the skin removed, you could now blast and clean the door interior before painting. With the door all pretty inside, you could now replace the skin, but with the original destroyed, you now need to find a replacement ! What is the point if no skin replacement is available ? | ||
w.weiland |
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Expert Posts: 1481 Location: Lordstown, Ohio | Thats the whole idea. If you got a good door there no need to remove the skin. Simply pointless to do so. BUT,.....if one is really bent on painting theinside of the door shell, you could drill the spot welds thru the first layer only. Spend painstaking time and turmoil and slowly unbend the flange and work the skin off the shell. By doing all this, you have created a new monster, warping the outer sheetmetal. So now when you go to put that skin back on you have more work for yourself. If you got a good door use it. If you got replacement skins use them. Or if you really like making things difficult on yourself take the skin off either way and spend about 20-30 extra hours of needless work in your project. A little side note, I have in the past with car from the 30's when making consistant gaps, either ground awy some of the edge and weld it back together, or if there was more needed, weld to the existing edge Wayne | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | Guys , good consideration, replace these skins is for big impact irreparable or so rusty | ||
w.weiland |
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Expert Posts: 1481 Location: Lordstown, Ohio | Raffaelle, The steel is soft enough that yopu need no heat. Put a good smooth flat dolly on the outside edge of the door. Hammer the edge over in slow increments about 6" at a time until its completely flat. Once you get it flat in a area make that path longer. IMPORTANT!! Do all 4 corners FIRST then bottom then front or rear of door Wayne | ||
345 DeSoto |
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Expert Posts: 1302 Location: Skaneateles,NY(summer)/Port St.Lucie,FL(winter) | ...Or, with the modern assembly adhesives in use today, you could reuse the doorskin... | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy |
Sealant ( i have found only body sealant ) hammer !! Finished work | ||
Windsor59 |
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Expert Posts: 2596 Location: Upplands Väsby, Sweden | Hej Raffaele must say -You do a very serios jobb at your DeSoto conv. Fun to see a nice resultat. And I read you Wayne you can also metall work. | ||
raffaplymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 734 Location: Torino - Italy | thanks!! Windsor59!! | ||
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