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Location: Lake Texoma | My huge vibration problem turned out to be a busted ball and trunion. After weighing all my options, I decided to convert my driveshaft to a slip-yoke style.
I will try to include details of this and post some pics.
My car is a 1958 Coronet with a 325 V8 and automatic trans.
Starting at the front end, I bought a Spicer Flange Yoke # 2-2-349 that bolted up perfectly to the parking brake drum on the back of the tranny. I bought a used driveshaft from a mid 80`s GM 4x4 (front driveshaft) and used the slip yoke from it. I shortened my driveshaft to proper length and welded on the tube shaft (splined end) of the slip yoke assembly. Due to different tube diameters of the GM shaft and my shaft, I had to use a bushing to make up the difference. Everything was welded up and new u-joints installed. It all bolted in just fine and fits up perfectly. Vibration gone !
I hope the pics help. |
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Member
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Location: Lake Texoma | I tried posting pics --- files too large ..... sorry |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | You should have editing software to resize them if the software came with your digital camera. |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | I'm glad your project worked out for you, Donnie; I've been known to modify my car, too.
Looking Forward to your photos!
For anyone else, out there, though: a thorough overhaul of our car's front suspension, and a proper alignment,
with 1.5 degrees of positive-caster dialed in (plus good-new tires!) will produce a car with literally zero dead-play
in the steering wheel, and with such steering control that you can safely remove your hands from the 'wheel' and
your car will continue to track in a straight line.
No excuses....
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Member
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Location: Lake Texoma | Pics coming. Thank you BigBlockMopar |
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Wise Old Village Idiot
Posts: 3591
 
Location: Dellslow, West ("By God") Virginia ! | Kenny J did the same thing a few decades back. His pictures are in the archives, or his 'puter. Ask him. |
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Expert 5K+ Passed away 30th Sept 2024. You will be missed Chuck!
Posts: 8954
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | try this---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------later
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=22951&... |
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | The pics...
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Excuse me---I thought that you were discussing the steering control of the car, not the driveline.
Any big-city will have a 'driveline' shop which can custom-make a full U-Joint driveline for our cars.
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Member
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Location: Lake Texoma | d500neil - 2010-02-20 8:47 PM
Any big-city will have a 'driveline' shop which can custom-make a full U-Joint driveline for our cars.
Of course that`s true, but I am not willing to pay the $$$ that the shops wanted.
My objective here was to do this on somewhat of a budget and within my own skills, in my home garage. Anyone with money can go out and pay to have something done, but what`s the fun in that ????
I did an archive search and did not find any photos or much info of anyone doing this, so I decided to take some pics.
I kinda feel like I`m getting my balls busted here. Geeez .... |
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Wise Old Village Idiot
Posts: 3591
Location: Dellslow, West ("By God") Virginia ! | Don, at least 'your' conversion doesn't have that 'Buzzard Puke' green paint, like Kenny J's! But , because you used a nice black color, it absorbs more heat, and therefore can't spin fast enough to throw off that extra heat buildup.
Meaning, Kenny J's will spin faster, resulting in more power to the hind end.
Don, you want a 'cheap' way to balance that DS of yours. Go to any electrical shop,,,,,. Ones that re-wind armatures, ro build electric motors. Ones like that. See, after they re-wind an armature, it has to be balanced,,,,. See where I'm going with this?
If you happen to know someone who work in a electric shop, they can do your DS for a 12 pak of beer (whatever) after work. You know, the barter system.
If you 'don't know' someone, it's only a few $$ to have the shop balance your DS.
Or,,,,, you can have one of those 'big city' shops balance your DS with nice fancy weights,,,,,,,. |
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | Don did you have to turn down the Spicer flange yoke to fit into the brakedrums register-'cup' or was the size correct?
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Member
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Location: Lake Texoma | BigBlockMopar - 2010-02-21 11:55 AM
Don did you have to turn down the Spicer flange yoke to fit into the brakedrums register-'cup' or was the size correct?
It was perfect - fit like a glove. I searched over the Spicer catalog and decided that it was as close as I`d get. I pulled it out of the box and it WOW, absolutely a perfect fit.
Yea, I think this is balanced. I was careful to get it spot-on with a dial indicator and I honestly think it`s balanced as close as any of thos "Big City" shops can do. |
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Location: Lake Texoma | alumcanTandThd - 2010-02-21 11:15 AM
Don, at least 'your' conversion doesn't have that 'Buzzard Puke' green paint, like Kenny J's! But , because you used a nice black color, it absorbs more heat, and therefore can't spin fast enough to throw off that extra heat buildup.
Meaning, Kenny J's will spin faster, resulting in more power to the hind end.
,.
I`ll paint it school bus yellow if I can gain more speed . . .  |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Big pimpin' | Don, that driveshaft will be ALOT more user friendly than the older style set up...You will prolly never have to even think about it again...Very well done indeed...Now, can you tell me the Spicer Number for the flange you used? I'm getting ready to do this VERY thing on a '58 Belvy, with a BB 350 And Aluminum 727 with drum.... |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7825
Location: Williams California | One of the cars I dragged in here last year had this conversion done, so I saved the driveline for a future project. It seems odd that the former owner spent the money to have this done, and then junked the car without trying to recoup part of their investment by selling the driveline.
---John |
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Wise Old Village Idiot
Posts: 3591
Location: Dellslow, West ("By God") Virginia ! | Yeah, I too would appreciate that Spicer #! Please?!
Oh BTW, I'm mixing up a little left over, white and red,,,,,,,,. Came came up with the prettiest color of titty pink you ever saw. That is what I want to paint my conversion with.
No heat build-up, and it will go good with the, black underneath, and Baby Birdy s**t Blue car color! |
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Expert
Posts: 3575
Location: Netherlands | Have you guys read the first post at all? 
"... I bought a Spicer Flange Yoke # 2-2-349 ..."
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Member
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Location: Lake Texoma | BigBlockMopar - 2010-02-22 1:02 PM
Have you guys read the first post at all?
"... I bought a Spicer Flange Yoke # 2-2-349 ..."
My best Beavis impersonation : "Uhhh huh ... uhh yea, Spicer, yea uhh huh Spicer ... number 2-2-349 .. uh huh uh uh .... " 
I bought it from www.northerndrivetrain.com for , I think , $54 . You might find it cheaper elsewhere .. ? |
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| The only problem with using a used slip yoke from a front driveshaft is, they are notorious for wearing the spline and therefore being out of balance...it becomes noticable when in 4 by 4 let alone on a rear driveshaft. Maybe you just got lucky on that one but I would use a new slip yoke set up...expensive, but not compared to cutting the old sloppy one off and rewelding a new yoke on. Also, they can feel tight while they have old grease in them, but that will fool you...clean them up and THEN check it for play. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1060
Location: Building incorrect cars since 2000!! | http://www.powertrainindustries.com/catalogs_series.htm?series=1310...
s&sort_by=centerline_to_end&PHPSESSID=1i4gudsrcok13lt4mf660vloa3
Here is the company I used to have my driveshaft made. They sell the flange conversion or they will make the driveshaft for you. They did a nice job and quick. |
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| I'm doing this conversion now, are all the forward look drums the same bolt pattern/measurements? There's another thread on this subject, I can't find it now but the part number listed there, 2-2-329, is definitely wrong, the bolt holes don't line up...hopefully 2-2-349 is right, as I just ordered one. Can anyone shed light on this? |
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| Nope, there's two different sizes. Small difference, big stupid. |
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Expert
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Location: Ripon, WI | It is very possible that one of those part numbers fits the small bolt pattern drum, and the other one fits the large pattern drum. |
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| That's what I'm saying. The larger pattern seems harder to find in stock. The smaller one fits the 53-56 Plymouths and the larger fits the Desotos and Chryslers. Dodge uses a mix. I put one of these on my 56 Plymouth with a new Spicer driveshaft so I could replace the U-joints and end yoke on the 56 Chrysler rear end I put in.
Edited by rbmain 2013-02-22 8:15 PM
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| Well that explains it...will post results of driveshaft mods when done, with prices, to keep this thread up to date. |
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| That part number, 2-2-349, is dead wrong...the bolts don't come close to lining up...this is bizarre. Going to have to drill new holes for flange, if possible.
Edited by 58dodgeregent 2013-02-25 11:54 AM
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| Look through the catalog and select the one that has the right bolt hole pattern, I know they have it. Northern takes returns and their CS people will help you select one that does fit. |
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| I'm sure the part is in there, but it's frustrating that these numbers don't work...this has been done before on here by at least several people, can anyone else provide a part number that is correct please? |
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Expert
Posts: 3903
Location: Northen Virginia | i check all theread related and they all shown the part number 2-2-349. that's why i check several times the info i post, people buying from overseas can't return stuff.
Edited by hemidenis 2013-02-26 10:24 AM
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Expert
Posts: 3903
Location: Northen Virginia | i just called with is part Powertrain industries. #3102-40, the price is $81.26
Edited by hemidenis 2013-02-26 10:48 AM
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Expert
Posts: 3903
Location: Northen Virginia | Can't attach the PDF file, but it shown bolt circle 3.250, bolt hole 0,385
Edited by hemidenis 2013-02-26 12:04 PM
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| Thanks, would you be so kind as to send that PDF file to blastfromthepast77@hotmail.com? Thanks!
I have been leaving this with my local machine shop, and not sure what suppliers they use. The more info I can get, the better! |
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| The Powertrain industries. #3102-36 is the one with the 2.875" bolt circle, which fits 55-56 Plymouths.
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Expert
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Location: Northen Virginia | Ok, at the Miami airport now, I will post the info asap |
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Expert
Posts: 3903
Location: Northen Virginia | PDF sent to blastfromthepast77@hotmail.com |
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Expert
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Location: Northen Virginia | I dont know why the price is so different.
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| That's great, Thanks for that, Denis!! |
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| Got driveshaft back, worked out great, total bill was $395, ouch...but crucially important part.
One thing I noticed, the design of the flange yoke is such that you can't use the original tall nuts
to bolt it on, there isn't clearance because of a shoulder there (see pic), so had to use normal
3/8" fine thread nuts, no lock washers, and Loctite. Removing the studs from the drum and using
bolts may work better, but no big deal, just have to tighten the nuts a little at a time. Next time
I'd ask the shop to lathe off that shoulder a bit, it would make the installation easier.
Edited by 58dodgeregent 2013-03-06 12:39 AM
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| Oh, and if anyone uses these numbers on the bill I posted, that 59" driveshaft length is NOT stock, that's only if you use a 1980's Chrysler 5th Avenue-type rear axle, as I did. |
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Expert
Posts: 3903
Location: Northen Virginia | Jeff,
I think this is the correct way to post a thread so anybody can used it , all the information need it is pictured and explained. TXS!!
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| Well thanks Denis, I appreciated you posting exactly what was needed, you saved the day, I was ready to have an adapter piece made up which would have made the shaft even more expensive! |
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Expert 5K+ Passed away 30th Sept 2024. You will be missed Chuck!
Posts: 8954
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | https://www.powertrainindustries.com/PDF/PTI_component_parts.pdf
3102-40
"page 85"
Edited by 60 dart 2013-06-05 2:28 PM
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Expert 5K+ Passed away 30th Sept 2024. You will be missed Chuck!
Posts: 8954
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | Driveshaft Specialist Inc has the correct 4" x 3.250" BC. that they use in their conversions M1-6 , 69.48$ + shipping . this one has a round register not
just the 4 ears ----------------------------------------------later
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.ht...
Edited by 60 dart 2013-06-05 2:25 PM
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Expert 5K+ Passed away 30th Sept 2024. You will be missed Chuck!
Posts: 8954
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i just ordered one from driveshaft specialist . 69.88$+ 17.00 shipping . the rest i'll have built here at wheeling spring @ 280.00$ bout the
same price as others , less the shipping ------------------------------------------------------later |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7211
Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | I found a very cheap and simple repair for a bad B&T joint, a friend of mine who has been a mechanic, and mostly worked on Mopars for over 50 years thought of this some months back.
He owns my ex-1960 Polara. Both of our B&T joints have had a vibration, mine started early this spring having a vibration when staring the vehicle from a stop, bad between 20-30 MPH.
Basically what the repair consists of is a 4" diameter by 1/4" thick aluminum spacer plate installed in front of the trunion behind the parking brake. It took all of 20 minutes to unbolt the
trunion, install the spacer and bolt it back up.
I actually had 2 disks made up, one for my car and one for Ron's Polara. The sheet metal shop I deal with for my business didn't even charge me for them. So last Tuesday evening
I went out to Ron's place and we un-bolted the trunion, installed one of the disks as a spacer in front of it, and bolted the trunion back up. Ron had previously installed the other one in his
Polara several days prior and said the result was spectacular.
So what this 1/4" spacer does is nothing but effectively move the bearings inside the trunion further ahead to an un-worn area inside the trunion. My trunion had been re-packed just last spring,
but as I mentioned, early this spring it started a nasty vibration while accelerating from a stop. I am assuming that at 117,000 miles that it is the original trunion. Ron had been thinking
about this low-cost experiment for quite some time so we decided to go ahead and try it. I have to say as well, the result is nothing short of spectacular.
It's as if a completely new B&T joint was installed, as there is now absolutely NO vibration.
I've been driving the car all weekend and there have been no issues whatever, it's like driving a new car again.
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Expert
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Location: Houston | Well.......that is an old trick, but it's a little 'off' for the fact that you have moved the flange of the front yoke off its register. The yoke is meant, I believe, to be centered by means of the contact on the OD, not the stud pattern.
The fact that your car is OK in terms if vibration is valid, but if you do this to 5 other cars they might shake due to an off-center condition.
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Expert
Posts: 1352
Location: Springville, CA | Greg,
Have you ever had a Ball and Trunnion joint off the car? Or seen the mating surface of the parking brake drum? |
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Expert 5K+ Passed away 30th Sept 2024. You will be missed Chuck!
Posts: 8954
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | GregCon - 2013-07-02 8:53 AM
Well.......that is an old trick, but it's a little 'off' for the fact that you have moved the flange of the front yoke off its register. The yoke is meant, I believe, to be centered by means of the contact on the OD, not the stud pattern.
The fact that your car is OK in terms if vibration is valid, but if you do this to 5 other cars they might shake due to an off-center condition.
i would think that is a valid point . i've been thinkin about the stress or torque on the bolts , being nutted out further , with the register now being
non-existent on the cup . now if that filler/extender can also be made with a register , it may be a winner -------------------------------later |
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Expert
Posts: 3815
Location: NorCal |
By spacing the B&T housing back 1/4" the rollers and side buttons are now riding in only 1/4" of unworn space....definitely a "bandaid" fix. |
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Ball and Trunion Conversion to Slip Yoke .. PICS
