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Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | This is Posted from NEIL D500 Thanks to Gary Johnson's help, Horrie now sports LED illuminated turn signals. The 1957-1958 Dodge has very-easy to remove/replace speedometer heads. Over the past 30 years of his custodianship, I've removed and/or serviced and reinstalled Horrie's speedo housing many times, for many different reasons. Gary gave me the list of the two critical items that are needed for this project: two 5mm white LED's ; X=0.31; Y=0.31 (P/N #WP929VW1C, available at kingbright.com) and two 560 half-ohm resisters (available at Radio Shack etc). The other components are some 18ga stranded wire, a couple looped-connectors (to secure the ground to a speedo housing bolt), a couple male : female quick-release connectors, and, finally, a couple Squeeze-Wire clamps. This project took about two hours of planning and careful execution; I soldered and crimped the fittings, as a gesture of over-kill; WTH.... I also was able to practice-on, and to bench-test the system, on one of my three(!) spare speedo's, to avoid doing something 'bad' to Horrie's good speedo, which remained in the car, until all-was-well with this exercise. So before we show the how-to protocols, here's the end result of this dope-deal: The first two pics are of the "before" with the turn signals illuminated by the Mark-1/Mod-1 OEM incandescent bulbs. The next two show the turn signals after the LED's are installed. (310.jpg) (311.jpg) (312.jpg) (313.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 310.jpg (103KB - 197 downloads) 311.jpg (105KB - 210 downloads) 312.jpg (98KB - 202 downloads) 313.jpg (96KB - 205 downloads) | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | Here's a rough schematic of this deal; the most important thing is to ensure that the short(er-) leg of the LED's run toward to Ground; the long(er-) leg is 'hot'. Parts are self-explanatory; obtained from Kingbright & Radio Shack. (314.jpg) (315.jpg) (316.jpg) (317.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 314.jpg (45KB - 209 downloads) 315.jpg (62KB - 212 downloads) 316.jpg (104KB - 203 downloads) 317.jpg (59KB - 206 downloads) | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | . (318.jpg) (319.jpg) (320.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 318.jpg (53KB - 202 downloads) 319.jpg (54KB - 207 downloads) 320.jpg (60KB - 204 downloads) | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | The first two pics show the made-up looms. The next pic shows the two looms dummied-up on one of my spare speedos, for bench-testing of this project. The 4th photo shows the looms insulated with electrical tape. The next two pics show the looms ready, and being bench-tested. The final two pics show the spare speedo's turn signal doing-their-thing!! (321.jpg) (322.jpg) (323.jpg) (324.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 321.jpg (100KB - 193 downloads) 322.jpg (112KB - 208 downloads) 323.jpg (107KB - 210 downloads) 324.jpg (110KB - 216 downloads) | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | . (325.jpg) (326.jpg) (327.jpg) (328.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 325.jpg (107KB - 207 downloads) 326.jpg (110KB - 201 downloads) 327.jpg (101KB - 206 downloads) 328.jpg (103KB - 195 downloads) | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | OK; we're ready to tackle Horries speedo, now. As seen in the first three pics, H.'s speedo has been removed, to the 'bench', where it received the two done-up LED looms and gets to be Duct Taped to the back of the speedometer. Then, it's back to the car, where the next four pics show the Squeeze- Clamps which secure the LEDs' quick-release wiring-sections to the turn signals' main power-wiring loom. What's NICE about this project is that it is completely reversible and/or serviceable, as might become necessary. This is a nice fun Winter's weekend project! (329.jpg) (330.jpg) (331.jpg) (332.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 329.jpg (116KB - 201 downloads) 330.jpg (113KB - 197 downloads) 331.jpg (108KB - 202 downloads) 332.jpg (108KB - 198 downloads) | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | . (333.jpg) (334.jpg) (335.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 333.jpg (101KB - 204 downloads) 334.jpg (108KB - 185 downloads) 335.jpg (106KB - 196 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Thanks, Clive! This thread was supposed to have been entitled: "Let their be LED"! Next will come a thread on hot-rodding a distributor. | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | d500neil - 2011-01-24 2:51 PM Thanks, Clive! This thread was supposed to have been entitled: "Let their be LED"! Next will come a thread on hot-rodding a distributor. Neil....... You can do one better (as I have done) and carefully break the old bulb glass and desolder the old element and clean out the insulating "wasp dirt". Then you make a thick rubber disc with a gasket punch of correct diameter to just fit in the lamp housing bore. Pierce that disc with the LED spacing for the two leads, and slip it onto the LED (I use a 10mm bright white LED in example shown) Cut the "long" positive leg off just below the rubber, and solder on the resistor (I use 490 Ohm 1% metal 1/8 Watt resistors). You cut its leg short as well to minimum distance. Then apply shrink tubing to insulate the resistor and the solder joint. Now, you thread the resistor lead through the bottom opening of the lamp socket where you desoldered the element lead, and you bend the LED ground tab over to the elements ground lead attachment point. Pushing the LED firmly down to seat the rubber, you then solder the base lead in place, and then solder the ground lead. Cut off excess lead s flush, and re-dab with solder to cover them. You now have a replacement LED "lamp" that plugs or screws into your socket. I show a completed E10 lamp (for my Lotus) and also a BA9 lamp like my DeSoto uses that I use to convert as well. Hank (LED Blub.jpg) Attachments ---------------- LED Blub.jpg (21KB - 207 downloads) | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | That's pretty 'trick', Hank! When the 'Brain' mentioned "LED bulbs", on another thread, around here, a while ago, I had thought that precise LED bulbs were available---some company should be making them. If/when they do, my set-up is gonna be out-of-there. My deal only takes about 2 hrs and 'average' ability, as anyone can see (and, about $20.00 in materials). What I'd REALLY like, now, is an LED that will fit into the back of the clock! The clock is designed to have almost no illumination (so as not to distract the driver, apparently). I'd love to light it up, like a dash gauge---it IS rheostat controlled (I think), from nothing-to-almost-nothing. Edited by d500neil 2011-01-24 4:03 PM | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | Like this Neil? http://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-tall-round-led-light.aspx | ||
1959Dodge |
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Expert Posts: 2244 Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | Most of those LED's aren't going to be near as bright as the ones Neil purchased nor will they radiate the light in a wide pattern, as the ones He used. I picked the ones Neil used specifically for brightness and radiation pattern. As I recalls they are about 49 cents apiece. Gary | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | Gary... This is the LED I use: http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15415+OP | ||
1956DeS |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 774 Location: Atlanta GA USA | http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispP... | ||
1959Dodge |
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Expert Posts: 2244 Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | Here's the one we used , Desotohead. http://www.kingbrightusa.com/kcpartno.asp?sltSearch=PN&txtPartNo=wp... Here's a comparison between the two. The ones you used: Cool White,(5500K), 10mm LED. Water clear case. 15000mcd, typ. light output . Max forward current 30mA continuous, 20mA recommended. 5VDC Max reverse Voltage. 3.8VDC typ. 4.5V max. Forward voltage drop. 15deg. View angle. 1" leads The ones we used Part No. WP9294VW1C White (InGaN) WATER CLEAR 5mm Iv (mcd) [2] Typ.1300 Viewing Angle [1] 130° The light output is very similar between the 2, but note yours has a viewing angle of 15 degrees, while the one we chose has a viewing angle of 130 degrees. I would think it would lite up the diffusers more evenly that the old bulbs went into??? I am thinking about using a narrow angle LED to individually lite each pushbutton in a different color thou. Thanks for the info! Gary oopss missed a "0" on the ones you use, so they are apparently 10X brighter, albeit a smaller sized beam. Edited by 1959Dodge 2011-01-24 6:07 PM | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | Gary... If you want a higher viewing angle, you can carefully file off the top of that LED of mine so its flat, and polish it. This will increase the viewing angle to around 80 to 90 degrees....... | ||
57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3577 Location: Blythewood, SC | 1956DeS - 2011-01-24 5:45 PM http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispP... That's too simple. | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | The wire taps described above have given me soooo much work over my career. Please do not use them. They are comon causes of faulty connections and broken wires (as the connection fails, they arc inside and blow the wire in half). Just a little advice from a person that fixes car electrics for a living Mick | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Mick, what are the 'wire-taps' that you mention, and which, specifically, LED-bulb is best for our cars, from Superbright's website? It would be relatively easy to do an A : B comparison of Superbright's LED bulbs, compared to my protocol's system, but I'd have to pull off some of that duct tape from the back of H's speedo housing and pull out the LED, to do that comparo-deal. | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | Neil.... The wire taps Mick mentions are those red things to "add a wire" or splice. I agree that those things are not much use. I refuse to use them myself. I had to rewire a factory wiring harness on a Rinker boat belonging to my sister-in-law's husband due to exactly what Mick was mentioning. Why a Marine manufacturer would use those things behind an Instrument Panel is beyond me! | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Neil As Hank says The red things, over here they are called Scotch Locks. They get used by a lot of tow bar manufacturers when they install trailer plugs, but I have seen them used for lots of circuits. A twisted and taped connection will last longer than those things and we all know how bodgy that is. The best way to splice a wire is the solder and heatshrink method. If anyone is going to play with the wiring on their cars, it is the way I would recomend to do it. You can get cheap elec soldering irons from most electronics shops or tool shops. I personally use a butane powered iron because a lot of my work is on-site and power is not always that available and it is fast (ready to go in 10 sec or so) If your not confident about soldering (but it is easy) or you want to be able to dis-connect what you have put on, then the common types of crimp connector will do fine. Just not those Scotch Locks (elec equivelant of putting a patch panel on will chewing gum) Mick | ||
61plymy |
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Expert Posts: 2824 Location: Snohomish, WA. | ttotired - 2011-01-25 6:05 AM The wire taps described above have given me soooo much work over my career. Please do not use them. They are comon causes of faulty connections and broken wires (as the connection fails, they arc inside and blow the wire in half). Just a little advice from a person that fixes car electrics for a living Mick My thoughts exactly, Michael. I too have made plenty of money because someone used these darned things. A fire hazard as well under the right conditions. Worse connector ever made.
Mike | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | That Squeeze-wire connection is working just fine, thank you... I can see why a bunch of them, all over a car's electrical system, could be problematic, as above stated, but, given the turn signal wires' loom-connection's relative inaccessibility, in the speedometer area, and the fact that their electrical connections ARE sturdy and secure, and REMOVABLE at will...their usage, to me, is completely necessary and valid---in THIS application! BTW, my soldering skills are just fine, too....both ends of the LED and the resister should be pre-tinned, along with the stranded wire, for an immediate and secure solder connection. But, which one of Superbright's bulbs will fit our cars' speedometer, and turn signal, applications? As far as a fire hazard is concerned, in a turn-signal application, the wires are not carrying any current/heat for any length of time. Edited by d500neil 2011-01-25 7:59 PM | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | d500neil - 2011-01-25 7:54 PM But, which one of Superbright's bulbs will fit our cars' speedometer, and turn signal, applications? These.... http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispP... | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Oh, wow; thanks! Wish I'd known about them a week ago. Are these different from the three bulbs that might service the dash-lighting system? The "Cool White" bulbs, huh? I wonder how they compare in brightness and dispersion to Kingbright's LED's? | ||
1959Dodge |
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Expert Posts: 2244 Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | Yours look great Neil, if you're real curious, buy one and try it out, You still have your sockets there. From the early versions of these bulbs, people were complaining that they were "delicate", easy to break the LED lamp away from its base when trying to plug it into the socket. I have not checked the net lately to see if those type of complaints have "Dried UP". Has anybody here actually bought one and tried it out? While on the subject of LED's, has anybody found a good LED substitute for the 1157 bulb? (That is the dual filament bulb for the tail/brake lights)? Complaints I saw, In addition to the "fragileness" I mentioned earlier was that ppl complained that the brake light were not that much brighter than the tail lights. Börje has them in his car, but his was an expensive deal, requiring a circuit board, and had to be done by an auto shop---they look great--alto again I havta checks the difference between tail lights and brake lights. I go to a lotta car shows, and it would be nice to be able to leave the parking lights and the dash lit. Gary | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Gary, i AM curious, but 'yellow' about spending more time on the turn signal protocol. My signals do look and work fine. However, I would be interested in buying 3 of the LED-bulb assemblies to try out in the speedo housing, for general illumination purposes, and REALLY interested in buying a smaller LED clock-bulb. Can anyone confirm which of Superbright's bulbs 'we' can buy for turn-signal, general-illumination, and clock-illumination purposes? | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | Neil.... The "Superbrights" that I highlighted are the ones to replace the BA9 bayonet type "57" instrument bulbs. Remember that these will be capable of the dimming function control of the Instrument Lamp circuit. So you can make them brighter or dimmer by varying the input voltage to the LED lamp, just like the incandescent bulb. Unless you have a particular reason to use another color, I would go with the 11200 mcd Cool White (PN BA9S-W-WV). | ||
61plymy |
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Expert Posts: 2824 Location: Snohomish, WA. | DeSotohead - 2011-01-26 5:32 PM Neil.... The "Superbrights" that I highlighted are the ones to replace the BA9 bayonet type "57" instrument bulbs. Remember that these will be capable of the dimming function control of the Instrument Lamp circuit. So you can make them brighter or dimmer by varying the input voltage to the LED lamp, just like the incandescent bulb. Unless you have a particular reason to use another color, I would go with the 11200 mcd Cool White (PN BA9S-W-WV).
Hank, I don't see anywhere in your link page that says the BA9 will dim with the dashlight dimmer in your car. LED's are usually pulse-width modulated in order to affect their brightness. As long as there is sufficient voltage to maintain forward bias, they are lit. In fact, the page does have a pick to purchase LED dimmers, which provide the PWM signal for changing the brightness. A 555 timer chip can be used to make a dimmer circuit that would respond to the varying voltage of a car dimmer. I'd be surprised if it follows a normal vehicle dimmer. But for fixed light applications it looks good.
Mike | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | Mike.... Get an LED and and set it up with a 490-580 Ohm resistor, and hook it to a variable power supply. Set the power supply to 14V and turn it on. Now dial the voltage down to around 8V. You will see that they dim on voltage. The PWM is just another way to reduce the voltage. But if you want to use a PWM from Superbright, then that is OK. May make the dimming a little more "linear" | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7385 Location: northern germany | i put super bright ba9s leds in my 60s dash 5 years ago. they work perfect and illuminate the dash way better and make the clear square aero wheel glow in the dark like a green neon tube and yes they are dimable. i also put green leds in a 60/61 desoto radio so the clear buttons light like a jukebox! Edited by 1960fury 2011-01-27 5:11 PM | ||
57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3577 Location: Blythewood, SC | d500neil - 2011-01-26 8:10 PM Can anyone confirm which of Superbright's bulbs 'we' can buy for turn-signal, general-illumination, and clock-illumination purposes? Why don't you just look on the site and cross reference with the factory bulb number? You really do make things too hard. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7385 Location: northern germany | 57plymouth - 2011-01-27 4:38 PM d500neil - 2011-01-26 8:10 PM Can anyone confirm which of Superbright's bulbs 'we' can buy for turn-signal, general-illumination, and clock-illumination purposes? Why don't you just look on the site and cross reference with the factory bulb number? You really do make things too hard. just read the above.... cutting original wiring, duct tape, resistors, etc,etc ... why not simply replace the standard bulbs with led bulbs? or am i missing something? i thought all fl cars have ba9s bulbs for dash illumination? not? | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Sid, way-back-originally, Gary J. had mentioned that he had retrofitted LED turn signal bulbs into his car. He sent me the protocols/instructions, so I followed them and obtained the very satisfactory results, as shown/discussed in this thread. Then, Hank and Bill came on with their recommendations. It now appears that Superbright's LED : 11200mcl Cool White, having part number BA9S-W-WV may be dimmable LED's which will fit and work on our dash illumination. Superbright does appear to sell a turn signal LED bulb (I'm not certain of its description or its P/N), but I also am not certain if its illumination will be as good, or better, than the Kingbright LED's that Gary & I have installed. I'll probably contact Superbright to confirm that its dash-bulbs are, in fact, dimmable. If I really cared, I'd buy Superbright's turn signal LED's (they're cheap enuf) and test them against Kingbright's LED's in my car..I might yet do this, because I'd, once-again, have to R & I the speedo housing in order to install the Superbright "dimmable" dash-bulbs. | ||
1959Dodge |
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Expert Posts: 2244 Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | All Led's (the LED's themselves) are dimmable. Where the confusion comes along is those that have circuit boards built into them---like some of the new ones for your houses. Many of these are still not yet dimmable and even those that are, dont dim that much or can flicker when your try to dim them too much---but it's the circuit boards and not the actual LED's that cause the problem. As far as dimming your dash lite LED's, they draw so little power, (Hence not much current to "cut down" with the dimmer). The fix for that is just to suppy a "Load" for the dimmer----One conventional bulb should do the trick. We see the same problem (Low current draw) when you install the LED bulbs in place of the regular stop/turn signal bulbs (Usually 1157's). The flasher won't work cause the LED's don't draw enough current to heat the flasher up---so again they sell "Dummy Loads" or they even make flashers that work with the low current draw of LED's. Unfortunately, (at this time) there is NO LED that will work as well as the 1157. The brake lite part of that bulb puts out about 400 lumens, even the best (1157 LED's) have yet to hit even 200 lumens. On my 64 with really old blue LED's for the dash, and no Dummy load or conventional bulb attatched, they will dim down to roughly half brightness---which was good nuff for me. On my 59, when I wired the dash, I used both Red and also white LED's and hooked them to a switch so I can choose either red or white (well really a pale green). The dimmer only slightly dims these which is fine with me, but it I wanted them to go dimmer, all I would havta do is supply a "Dummy Load" Like the lite in the glove box, or ash tray, or just hide it under that dash. Gary | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Ok, Gary; so what is your conclusion regarding how well Superbright's LED-bulbs will work, on/for our cars' dimmable dash lights? | ||
61plymy |
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Expert Posts: 2824 Location: Snohomish, WA. | DeSotohead - 2011-01-27 9:41 AM Mike.... Get an LED and and set it up with a 490-580 Ohm resistor, and hook it to a variable power supply. Set the power supply to 14V and turn it on. Now dial the voltage down to around 8V. You will see that they dim on voltage. The PWM is just another way to reduce the voltage. But if you want to use a PWM from Superbright, then that is OK. May make the dimming a little more "linear" I won't argue a little bit of brightness change via voltage applied, but a diode is forward biased when it drops .6 volts DC. A truer range of brightness/dimness is only achieved via PWM tactics. As long as it can see .6 volts it will illuminate. The series resistor is purely to limit total current so the device is not permanently damaged. Look at the home lighting LED world. It relies on the same devices, but they specifically state that LED's don't respond to conventional dimmer technology. PWM is the only way to achieve a somewhat linear rate of illimination given an LED source of light.
Mike | ||
1959Dodge |
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Expert Posts: 2244 Location: Yorba Linda, Ca | What I would do Neil is just buy a couple of the Superbrights and try them in one of your spare speedos. Compare it to stock---put the regular bulbs in the other spare speedo. Then use those latern batteries to power each. (Don't leave the conventional bulbs on for a long period of time as they draw a lot more power than the LED's. Check for overall brightness, the eveness of the lighting (glare) etc etc and just your overall impression of the comparison between the 2 and your preference. Just looking at the Superbrights, it would appear to me that they would emit light in a "Slotted" sort of beam, and not evenly light up the diffusers---but--I'm just guessing---So best thing is to try them out. One advantage of LED's like the Kingbrights is that you can "Double Up" on LED's in certain areas of the dash, which is what I did, as there were areas(even with the stock bulbs) that were not as bright as other areas of the dash or speedo--so I used 2 led's and resistors in those areas. Also check Suberbrights Web-site as they sell just the bases, for some type bulbs (1157 for example) so you could buy just the bases and install the LED's of your choice. Gary Edited by 1959Dodge 2011-01-28 8:37 AM | ||
Bart_59_Dodge |
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Expert Posts: 1443 Location: Oconomowoc Wi | I thought that this was interesting. a quick YouTube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YoicLGHADk0 of a 2002 Dodge Ram LED dash. Only half of the LEDs are installed. To show the brightness between the LEDs and the OEM bulbs. I was searching on youtube for something like this so I could see with my own eyes what the fuss was all about. Looking at it now, Im convinced to also switch to LED lighting. ...but Ill wait to see what conclusions you guys come up with in your testing to see the best ( and easiest ) solutions. This vendor seems to have it all from soup to nuts. http://www.ledlight.com/ba9s-miniature-bayonet-auto-led-lights.aspx | ||
DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | Bart... The only thing I don't like about LEDLIGHT.COM is that they don'r reference the lumens or MCD of the bulbs........ | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13042 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Hmmm if that's the light from the LED's, I'll stick to my old bulbs - absolutely nothing like romantic atmosphere glow from a bulb - LED's are more like the light from a morgue, cold, icy and makes me think of mutilated body parts in a cheesy TV serie. It's like home decoration - try to create a cozy, warm and friendly atmosphere with modern energy saving light sources Edited by wizard 2011-01-28 12:46 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Wiz; when the LED's are shrouded behind a colored plastic lens (as the turn signals are) their appearance is identical to that of an incandescent bulb. Like Gary says, I could merely install them behind my spare speedo assemblies, but, I'd prefer to check out their dimming ability. Forgot to call Superbright today, but, I'm really interested in installing an LED (even if it doesn't dim) into the dash clock, which is essentially not visible at night, the way that its bulb is indirectly-located, behind it. Edited by d500neil 2011-01-28 5:50 PM | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7385 Location: northern germany | wizard - 2011-01-28 12:43 PM a cozy, warm and friendly atmosphere :laugh: a cozy warm friendly atmosphere does not help me if i can't read the odometer. the light is just like original only brighter and leds are said to last forever... | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Anybody know the type/size of the smaller clock bulb? | ||
60 Plymouth |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1060 Location: Building incorrect cars since 2000!! | Did they have LED lighting in 57? I think a good upgrade would be one of those stickers on the mirrors that reads "Object are closer than they appear" | ||
59CRL |
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Expert Posts: 2679 | 60 Plymouth - 2011-01-29 10:47 PM Did they have LED lighting in 57? I think a good upgrade would be one of those stickers on the mirrors that reads "Object are closer than they appear" :laugh: Nope, not factory there Aaron.... the mirror sticker would be a good one.... how about a LED dome light? I might build some and sell them on evilbay | ||
dukeboy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6203 Location: Big pimpin' | I was totally unaware that 1957 Dodge's came with LED lighting...Hmmm, Maybe I can swipe some of the dodge's LED's for my plymouth? I don't know bout the whole Duct Tape thing though...I think that was a Dodge only thing.... Edited by dukeboy 2011-01-29 11:02 PM | ||
59CRL |
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Expert Posts: 2679 | dukeboy - 2011-01-29 11:01 PM I was totally unaware that 1957 Dodge's came with LED lighting...Hmmm, Maybe I can swipe some of the dodge's LED's for my plymouth? I don't know bout the whole Duct Tape thing though...I think that was a Dodge only thing.... Oh man, now that a low blow!! My Dodge does not have any duct tape!! None.... or leds's... I like the old bulbs, gotta keep the nostalgia look and feel ya know! | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13042 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | 1960fury - 2011-01-29 12:00 AM wizard - 2011-01-28 12:43 PM a cozy, warm and friendly atmosphere :laugh: a cozy warm friendly atmosphere does not help me if i can't read the odometer. the light is just like original only brighter and leds are said to last forever... I didn't think you cared much for your speedometer reading Sid - prevoiusly posts give away that you have a very heavy right foot Actually, I meant the glow from the moder car shown above - that I don't like. | ||
Chrispy |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 520 Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado | I've done the complete LED conversion on the interior of my Porsche 924s and i have been very very happy with the results. The LED will dim slightly with my dimmer however i have no extra load added to the int lighting as i ditched all of the incandescents. I use a single LED 1156 for my 3rd brake and i got the 45 led version that Superbright sells, it was $30 however it is just as bright as the bulb it replaced and it lights up noticeably faster than the rest of my tail lights when i step on the brakes. This means i get that light out the back of the car that much faster and the driver behind me can react that much faster. Well worth it. Seeing as most of our cars only use 2 1157's it would probably be worth the $60 for a pair. GET THE SAME COLOR AS THE LENS YOUR PUTTING IT IN FOR BRAKE/BACKUP LIGHTS! Otherwise your wasting the light that you do have with these new led bulbs. I converted my overhead lights as well, a noticeable improvement over the old festons in my Porsche http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispP... I used the 115x-45t for my 3rd brakelight. Would be the same for a FL car, just get the 1157 instead of the 1156 that i got. They also offer a more directional high power model w/ a 3w luxeon led (130deg spread instead of the 360deg that the 45led model offers, 360 is better for a bulb buried in a big reflector or for spill to say fill up a 58 plymouth tail light cavity) | ||
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