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 Dream CarModerators: big m Jump to page : < 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 > Now viewing page 4 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905    Location: little rock, AR | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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  Location: Parts Unknown | |||
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| earleebob |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1120  Location: Brisbane, Australia | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | When the resto guys sent the earlier photos of the brakes, I directed them to pull the read end and springs and give them "the lovin'". Here are some shots of it all coming together. Much discussion was put into making sure they got the P&A Black paint right. With the help of John Fowlie, it looks like they nailed it.  (springs rebuilt nov 2012.JPG) (rear end repainted nov 2012.JPG) (brakes lf finished nov 2102.JPG) Attachments ----------------  springs rebuilt nov 2012.JPG (39KB - 372 downloads) rear end repainted nov 2012.JPG (41KB - 400 downloads) brakes lf finished nov 2102.JPG (47KB - 401 downloads) | ||
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| oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | That's the plan ! | ||
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| b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | It will be stripped to bare metal, body work done, and painted. The windshield was crashed out of it and likely the precipitating reason for it being parked in 1964. As a result of the missing windshield, the dash and other interior painted parts will all be redone, as well as a new interior. The steering wheel in in-process now, as are the door panels. Seat fabric is in-hand, so it ought to fall together pretty easy from here. In spite of it looking rough when purchased, it really is a nice, solid, low miles car. I had wanted to do this car myself, to get warmed up for the attack on the DeSoto, but as you pointed out, having this one finished and "fun" for the wifeperson will prove a real asset in the support dept. over the long haul with the much more involved DeSoto restoration. | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Suspension all done and the rear end and springs back under the car. (rear end back in on lift 20 Nov 2012.JPG) (rear end back in r 20 Nov 2012.JPG) (rear end back in l 20 nov 2012.JPG) Attachments ---------------- rear end back in on lift 20 Nov 2012.JPG (40KB - 399 downloads) rear end back in r 20 Nov 2012.JPG (38KB - 408 downloads) rear end back in l 20 nov 2012.JPG (30KB - 388 downloads) | ||
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| 56royaldodge |
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Account deactivated by owner's request Location: On this barrel | Those are Idaho plates, Kootenai county. More information on the Kootenai Indians: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kutenai_people (we'll see what Doc has to say about that  )Edited by 56royaldodge 2012-11-21 4:12 PM | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | You are a funny bastxrd ! Random is on par with good sarcasm for the ultimate humor. Bravo. Alas, I see your doc has had no luck in finding a good A.D.D. medication yet ! | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Chassis rebuilt and back together, engine, trans, rear end, and driveshaft dialed in/rebuilt. Out for a first test drive. Developed a radiator leak and the shifter was a little out of adjustment, but otherwise, looks pretty good. Next step, strip the body and get ready for paint. (running driving again 1 05 dec.JPG) (runnig driving again 2 05 dec.JPG) (running driving again 3 05 dec.JPG) Attachments ---------------- running driving again 1 05 dec.JPG (43KB - 380 downloads) runnig driving again 2 05 dec.JPG (42KB - 372 downloads) running driving again 3 05 dec.JPG (36KB - 387 downloads) | ||
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| big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7806 Location: Williams California | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | The windshield was out of the car for many years, and what rain Arizona gets, fell on the front floor giving us what rust problems the car has. First order of business was to clean up the floor enough to identify the problem areas, then mark for cutting, patches made, welded in, and finished off. (rust rf floor2.JPG) (rust repair lf floor1.JPG) (rust repair lf floor7.JPG) (rust repair giblets1.JPG) Attachments ---------------- rust rf floor2.JPG (42KB - 385 downloads) rust repair lf floor1.JPG (46KB - 395 downloads) rust repair lf floor7.JPG (50KB - 376 downloads) rust repair giblets1.JPG (36KB - 358 downloads) | ||
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| 55 Savoy |
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Veteran Posts: 279 Location: Norway | Being a sucker for bare bones "time machines" like this i really enjoy seeing that it gets the love it deserves. As for the Goodyear blackwalls. You said that turning the whitewall in was not an option because the crease in the tire for the whitewall was visible. Take a look at the enclosed picture (found elsewhere on the site). That's a brand new '58 Plaza with blackwalls and they do have a pretty visible line where the whitewall would have been.. Keep up (supervising) the good work! (Finnish58.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Finnish58.jpg (53KB - 371 downloads) | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | I was referring to the in-turned whitewall having that sidewall rubber cut away. I think the outfacing all-black side should look dead stock (?). Maybe I am being too picky, ..... but we crossed that bridge a long time ago and the tires are purchased and in hand, ready to install when the paint is done. Now, about your picture, ... is that an OEM 58 Plaza cold weather hat ?  Edited by Doctor DeSoto 2013-01-26 5:25 AM | ||
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| SavoyPlaza |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1172 Location: Georgia | Doctor DeSoto - 2013-01-26 5:23 AM Now, about your picture, ... is that an OEM 58 Plaza cold weather hat ? Good call, Doc. Plaza men are too cheap to even order a brim on their hat! Pete | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | I am sitting in the Dubai airport. 2 days with no sleep and an ass-whooping cold. Trying hard to stay awake another 5 hours so as not to miss my flight. The wifeperson Skypes and says the door panels just arrived from SMS. Doug & Co. promised them before 01 February, and it looks like they are right on time. Make a note of it, SMS doubters. Once I shake off the flying lizards, I'm heading out to see the car, deliver some of the accumulated parts, and perhaps turn a wrench or help where useful. Glenn invited me to join in any time I wanted. I'll get some good pictures and get this thread on track. | ||
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| big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7806 Location: Williams California | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Thanks John. Still under the weather, but slept most of the 14 hour flight once I got seated. I'll give you a call shortly after going over the beast with Glenn. Much easier to do this stuff first person. | ||
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| big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7806 Location: Williams California | Doctor DeSoto - 2013-01-30 2:31 PM Thanks John. Still under the weather, but slept most of the 14 hour flight once I got seated. I'll give you a call shortly after going over the beast with Glenn. Much easier to do this stuff first person. Sounds good, Brent. I do have a good inspection plate for the driver's floor set aside for you already. ---John | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | |||
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| 56royaldodge |
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Account deactivated by owner's request Location: On this barrel | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Made a trip out to the shop today to see the Plaza and deliver parts and interior materials. When unboxed, the door panels were gorgeous. Trouble was, they're black and we need green !  An email w/ pix was sent to SMS with the pic below. We'll see what they say. But the upholsterer was pleased with the fabrics and we'll be getting those seats together in the meantime. Paint color samples were worked up and presented for the body paint, interior (dash, window garnishes, etc.) and Argent. For whatever reason, they were trying hard to find me a powdercoat in a close silver, but I informed them I was happy with good old paint and not to fuss over powdercoat. We will adjust a very close exterior sample just a hair darker, but the interior color was spot on. The floor work is done and it seems everyone was waiting on me to pull the trigger on a few things before they tore into things further. With a few questions ironed out, we should really rip it apart next week and get the bodywork going. The trunk is amazing. Don't think I've ever seen one so perfect. Look at the way the underside of that decklid cleaned up ! Even the latch hardware looks new. This is all original and just cleaned up ! Bumpers are at the chromer. Edited by Doctor DeSoto 2013-02-02 1:45 AM (new door panel black.jpg) (30 Jan 2013 front floors finished.jpg) (deck lid underside original.jpg) (trunk floor .jpg) (30 Jan 2013 engine bay.jpg) (30 Jan 2013 rr QTR shot.jpg) (30 Jan 2013 side view r .jpg) Attachments ---------------- new door panel black.jpg (37KB - 373 downloads) 30 Jan 2013 front floors finished.jpg (38KB - 378 downloads) deck lid underside original.jpg (30KB - 374 downloads) trunk floor .jpg (38KB - 379 downloads) 30 Jan 2013 engine bay.jpg (45KB - 348 downloads) 30 Jan 2013 rr QTR shot.jpg (38KB - 368 downloads) 30 Jan 2013 side view r .jpg (40KB - 358 downloads) | ||
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| oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | |||
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| big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7806 Location: Williams California | |||
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| 56royaldodge |
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Account deactivated by owner's request Location: On this barrel | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | I sent that email to SMS late last night. Got three volley emails this AM, saying send them back with a swatch of the green for a sample and they'd correct it pronto. Doug said he went with the black color based on my discussion about black carpet. One thing my time in AFG has lurnt me is always push forward. He has offered to correct the color im-midget-ly. I'll not lose focus and get too worked up on the how's and why's of how we got all confused. Just get 'em dialed in and get this car on the road. We don't get days off in AFG. I am finding this taking Saturday and Sunday off an annoying delay to getting back over to Glenn's to tear the doors, fenders, and dash out of the car and to get pounding on the metal. I guess these guys want weekends off, especially the Big Game weekend. | ||
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| oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Not very extended. The usual R&R allowance.  | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Just got off the phone w/ Dennis the steering wheel guy. He wants a color sample, as my wheel is too baked and he's dissatisfied with my (what I would think to be ample) photos showing the color and swirling. He said it should not be swirled, so I went out to the shop and looked at my wheels and they are indeed a very much swirled translucent color. Not sure where I am going to go next with this ... send him a 2nd wheel to see for himself ? But things are moving along .... | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Spent most of the day working on the car. What a wonderful treat. I haven't done this kind of thing in 20 years. It is so much fun. Will post a series of pix here. The first lot document what a rust-free, unmolested trunk looks like. From overspray to general finish. What a relief it is to not need to replace the trunk ! Neil: note the green paint on the trunk latch ! (trunk left 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (trunk right 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (trunk lip strike 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (trunk latch 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (trunk latch overspray 06 Feb 2013.jpg) Attachments ---------------- trunk left 06 Feb 2013.jpg (37KB - 381 downloads) trunk right 06 Feb 2013.jpg (36KB - 357 downloads) trunk lip strike 06 Feb 2013.jpg (31KB - 356 downloads) trunk latch 06 Feb 2013.jpg (23KB - 359 downloads) trunk latch overspray 06 Feb 2013.jpg (31KB - 333 downloads) | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | First order of business was to photograph details that will easily be forgotten as the car comes apart and goes back together. Body panel fitment and other details. The right side was pretty good. The left side was awful. Since the mouse nest left rear door will be replaced, this may be fixed simply in the replacement. The factory body manuals show how to bend the sedan window frames using blocks and leveraged pressure. This will all have to be done first, before we begin the body work and paint or the work gets damaged in the process and has to be done again. The deck lid sat pretty good, but could use some leading edge shimming when reassembled, but overall no work needed. The one problematic dent in the left quarter appears to not have affected the fin, as it aligns with the decklid. So, we may get away with some simple stud pulling, combined with some heat shrinking in the stretched point of impact. Nothing too difficult. (l side panel shot 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (r side panel shot.jpg) (lf door bad fit 2 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (lr door bad fit r 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (decklid l seam.jpg) (decklid r seam 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (decklid bottom seam 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (decklid lf fit 06 Feb 2013.jpg) Attachments ---------------- l side panel shot 06 Feb 2013.jpg (31KB - 362 downloads) r side panel shot.jpg (32KB - 361 downloads) lf door bad fit 2 06 Feb 2013.jpg (35KB - 367 downloads) lr door bad fit r 06 Feb 2013.jpg (32KB - 375 downloads) decklid l seam.jpg (22KB - 338 downloads) decklid r seam 06 Feb 2013.jpg (24KB - 351 downloads) decklid bottom seam 06 Feb 2013.jpg (31KB - 335 downloads) decklid lf fit 06 Feb 2013.jpg (21KB - 337 downloads) | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | This is a question to Plymouth experts .... As memory serves, the door / window handles are located properly in these shots. Please confirm. (door handles front 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (door handles rear 06 Feb 2013.jpg) Attachments ---------------- door handles front 06 Feb 2013.jpg (34KB - 355 downloads) door handles rear 06 Feb 2013.jpg (38KB - 370 downloads) | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | When I pulled the fin top trim, I was pleased to see the crown of fine dust packing the trim easily crunched up and swept away, leaving shiny paint underneath. The rear deck / back glass moulding had some crusty rust onto the rear deck area beyond the trim. This suggested the window channel would be the typical mess that needs lots of chopping, fabbing, and welding. The lack of any signs of water in the trunk said it was still solid and keeping the rain out. I was pleased as punch to spin the nuts off the special moulding clips, give them a soft tap with my hammer, and the whole thing come up easily, revealing a channel full of dirt and organic bits. A poker dragged down the channel a couple times and a sweep with the shop vac revealed the channel to still be in great shape. Note the white marks near the trim clip holes in the last photo, left from the long-gone sealer applied at those clips to keep water from getting into the trunk. Edited by Doctor DeSoto 2013-02-07 12:36 AM (fin top dirt 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (back glass channel dirt 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (back glass channel clean 1 06 Feb 2013.jpg) (back glass channel clean 2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- fin top dirt 06 Feb 2013.jpg (25KB - 361 downloads) back glass channel dirt 06 Feb 2013.jpg (41KB - 374 downloads) back glass channel clean 1 06 Feb 2013.jpg (32KB - 335 downloads) back glass channel clean 2.jpg (32KB - 329 downloads) | ||
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| ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | |||
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| DeSotohead |
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Board Moderator Posts: 3186 Location: The not-so-great, dirty-white North ( Michigan) | |||
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| 56royaldodge |
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Account deactivated by owner's request Location: On this barrel | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | The wifeperson talked me into having this car done while I was away. The photos are taken at Glenn Vaughn Auto Restoration. Glenn is of the old Hill & Vaughn Resto works from L.A. years ago. They do Pebble Beach level work if you want them to. Great outfit. Glenn happens to be local and I got to talking with him about 10 years ago regarding some fab work for the DeSoto wheel tubs and when that chick of mine pushed having the car done, I naturally thought of Glenn as someone I'd trust to not over-restore the car. The Plaza was intentionally sought out for the buzzard puke green monotone color and will be redone as such. It is almost too nice still to do a repaint. A zillion little nicks and scratches are fine with me on a survivor. But the couple dents and an old repair at the drivers door / fender pushed me over the edge to repaint the whole car. As mentioned before, it will lose the optional side trim, fender ornaments, and outside mirror (after market addition anyway) and get body colored wheels to go with the dog dishies and blackwalls for the proper School District fleet car look. The interior is kind of a trip, ... the original ordering person checking boxes for cloth interior, matching green door panels, V-8 engine, Torqueflite tranny, power steering, power brakes, and added A/C at the dealer. Go figger on that ! Some rather expensive options added to a bare bones stripper, like they read my mind 50 years in advance. I want the look, but am happy for the driver comfort goodies. Stock, a base Plaza got an all vinyl interior, black and white interior panels, 6 cylinder engine, 3-onda- tree manual trans, manual everything else, and certainly no A/C ! Back glass appears to be original, with the Herculite etching. Interestingly, after much detective work, it appears this car died from one or more of three things ... 1. A big lead ball tossed through the windshield, 2. The driver door being ripped around backwards in a "soft" collision that did not damage the rear edge of the door, like perhaps rolling backwards with the door open and snagging the door on a tree ? 3. Simply being 1964 and the buzzard puke green finned "ugly mobile" being so out of style that the owner just got a new car and parked it because of the above mentioned "problems". The registed owner lived in Anaheim, California. The car was left for dead in Parker, Arizona since 1964. Parker is a popular water getaway for many Angelinos and the car was quite likely a tourist visitor when its "career" came to an end there for whatever reason. I hope to someday figure than one out ! Amazing small world that it is, my XO in AFG grew up in Parker and remembers the old closed down furniture store - turned into a junk collection of old cars, trucks, and heavy equipment where this car sat all those years. He's not a car guy and does not remember the car itself, but told some funny stories about the junkpile collection where it came from. He was floored that I had this car from his hometown and was telling HIM stuff about it. I hope to utilize this connection to perhaps put together more history on the car when it is done. Drive it down there and see what I can find ? I can't speak to rust in other areas so much, but the rubbing of the window moulding creates a raw spot there in the center of the deck. If the car is driven and cared for, it usually doesn't make for much of a rust problem, but when dirt and organic matter area allowed to accumulate, it rusts up in short order. The entire back glass channel was a less-than-ideal design anyway, and most FL cars rusted out there or leaked into the trunk, resulting in catastrophic rust failure to the entire rear clip. For whatever combination of reasons, this homely green sedan escaped the usual wrath and will survive as one of the best in existence, no radio and stripper that it is ! (rr qtr shot 2 06 Feb 2013.jpg) Attachments ---------------- rr qtr shot 2 06 Feb 2013.jpg (41KB - 361 downloads) | ||
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| b5rt |
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Expert Posts: 2519 Location: central Illinois | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | This nasty, ugly car will be well traveled and photographed when it is finished. You can count on it. I can hardly wait to get the #@! wheels and tires on it. It looks SO BAD on those radials.  | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Short day today. Decided since the driver's side panel alignment sucks and the rear door has a rusted out mouse nest in the front corner (new door to replace on hand) I would start there for doing some heavy metal bending. The first thing to do is strip it out to a bare shell and document the factory details to get it right when reassembly time arrives. I was surprised to find the rust out from the mouse nest was limited to the high, outer skin area that gave it away, and the lower inner frame was as clean as the rest of the door bottom. I would prefer to keep the original door if it's within reason. Will likely strip both and make the decision then. Spent some time on the phone trying to find a clear windshield and am having no luck. Shaded, tinted, or both are pricing out anywhere from $400 to over $1000 ! .... doesn't anyone sell a clear windshield ? (door lr mech detail 1.jpg) (door lr mech detail 3.jpg) (door lr weatherstrip detail 1.jpg) (door lr weatherstrip detail 2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- door lr mech detail 1.jpg (48KB - 313 downloads) door lr mech detail 3.jpg (36KB - 327 downloads) door lr weatherstrip detail 1.jpg (28KB - 337 downloads) door lr weatherstrip detail 2.jpg (36KB - 319 downloads) | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | You're not REALLY working on your car until you skin a knuckle. Make a note of it. (knicked knuckle 07 Feb 2013.jpg) Attachments ---------------- knicked knuckle 07 Feb 2013.jpg (25KB - 345 downloads) | ||
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| oldwood |
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Expert Posts: 2905 Location: little rock, AR | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | The driver's door proved to be a bit more complicated piece of work and disassembly was thusly so. I am also suffering from being all too familiar with the convertible-hardtop construction and these sedans offer a few unique twists to the process. As it came apart, I fell back and wrote down what I thought would be a good instructional for anyone pulling a sedan door apart, or perhaps putting one back together, as doing it out of order created added problems that forced me to put things back together so I could get something else apart first. Here it is. Please add comments if you have a better idea. Maybe future wrenchers can learn something from this trial and error exercise ? 1. Remove bottom window stop to allow glass to be lowered too far. This makes Step 3 possible. 2. Remove screw at bottom of front window track. Use care, as this #3 phillips screw easily strips at the odd angle you must access. Mine stripped out, and when I welded a piece of steel across it to turn, the dammed thing sheared off anyway. So, I'll now be forced to do additional work to unfxck this when I go to reassemble. 3. Derail window from regulator arm and drop to bottom of door. 4. Unbolt and remove lift from inside of door. 5. with window in bottom of door, remove flexible window channel from window frame. 6. Remove screws at base of vent glass-to-door (not screw for vent pivot) and two screws at leading edge door frame and twist entire vent assembly counter clockwise as you face the inside of the door to drop into door, to be removed through large lower access hole on interior side of door. 7. Turn glass inside door perpendicular to normal position and remove through slot at top of door. 8. Remove rubber access plug and remove bolt attaching exterior door handle to latch. 9. Unbolt and remove door latch and interior handle mechanism from door. These two can be separated at the smaller access hole by twisting the latch to align the "slot" and release the corresponding knob. The latch is now easily pulled out the previously mentioned small hole and the handle mechanism and arm can come out the large hole with a little twisting to align. 10. Two screws at the strike face above the latch screw holes will now release the interconnector for the lock cylinder and the now gone latch. 11. Almost like a sliding window, the keeper for the lock cylinder slides toward the back edge of the door in its housing inside the door to free the lock cylinder. All this done, the door is gutted and one can now remove the travel limiter by drilling out or grinding off the rivet at the front pivot. This leaves only the hinges which are a no brainer. I would suggest supporting the door before removing the bolts to avoid bending or breaking something. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ I am going to gut all the doors before falling back to do some heavy metal work in aligning them with the body. The first step will be to work the hinges, but once that option is exhausted, bending the doors to match the pillars will follow. If it comes to that, I'll post pix. As a side note, these pix are as much to jog my fading memory of how the thing came apart as to show someone else who might end up doing the work in my absence. The exploded view on the floor is laid out to best show the way the critical parts like the regulator arm looked as it came out. Stuff like this can make a big difference in how easy it is to put it back into the door later, especially if months or years intervene. (door lf mech detail 1 08 Feb 13.jpg) (door lf mech detail 2 08 Feb 13.jpg) (door lf mech detail 3.jpg) (door lf mech detail 4.jpg) Attachments ---------------- door lf mech detail 1 08 Feb 13.jpg (45KB - 338 downloads) door lf mech detail 2 08 Feb 13.jpg (40KB - 314 downloads) door lf mech detail 3.jpg (41KB - 326 downloads) door lf mech detail 4.jpg (37KB - 305 downloads) | ||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | I posted this on the general album up top, but will add it here for future reference. After fiddling with the door panels and trying to remove the interior handles and window cranks on the Plaza, I got fed up and made a duplicate of a tool I made years ago that hides somewhere in my shop. It gets behind the handle without damage to the door panel and grips the spring clip to release the handles from the square shaft they ride on. I sacrificed a long-loved favorite screwdriver I've had for years and years. It came out pretty nice and works like a charm. After heating and bending the shaft to about 10 degrees (this allows direct pressure to the clip and gets behind the handle base), I heated and bent the tip to a 90 from the new bent shaft angle. I then welded up a block of metal to the end of the flat surface at the just-bent tip. Taking it to the grinder to shape said block to a desired shape, I then cut the groove to the block that provides the gripping surface to engage the spring clip and not slide off. This puppy is slick. I know others have found getting these off to be tedious and thought I'd share the idea. (tool 1.jpg) (tool 2.jpg) (tool 3.jpg) (tool 4.jpg) Attachments ---------------- tool 1.jpg (44KB - 309 downloads) tool 2.jpg (31KB - 342 downloads) tool 3.jpg (41KB - 339 downloads) tool 4.jpg (38KB - 319 downloads) | ||
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| big m |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7806 Location: Williams California | |||
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| Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | The steering wheel resto guy requested a paint store type color sample to work with, as he says the original wheel is too baked for him to cast a new one with confidence that the color is right. I picked a few chip cards off the rack to bring home and compare against the photo I saved of a decent original. The first chip I picked looks to be dead on. (color match.jpg) Attachments ---------------- color match.jpg (53KB - 349 downloads) | ||
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