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Location: Montreal, Canada | Would this one work for 1950's Mopars?
Edited by soiouz 2011-04-11 9:45 PM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Yes, get it! |
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Expert
Posts: 3480
Location: Montreal, Canada | mstrug - 2011-04-11 10:02 PM
Yes, get it!
I can get it for 15$.
Apparently an old garage closing down and selling their stuff. I'll go tomorrow and see what else they have there. I'd love to get my hands on an inside door handle remover tool! |
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| David, That looks like a hell of a strong puller, good find! The door handle pullers aren't too tough to build, unless you don't have access to a welder and grinder? |
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Expert
Posts: 3480
Location: Montreal, Canada | 58dodgeregent - 2011-04-11 10:33 PM
David, That looks like a hell of a strong puller, good find! The door handle pullers aren't too tough to build, unless you don't have access to a welder and grinder?
Yeah, you're right. If I don't find one tomorrow, I'll probably end up building one.
My wife and I are moving to a new house in three weeks, and I'll have a garage of my own for the first time to work on the car and other projects. That's why I'm gathering some tools, now!  |
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Regular
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| I just built two door handle clip removers, clones of the KD tool. I have machine tools but it could be done with out too much effort using hand tools and a MIG welder............Bob |
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Expert
Posts: 2679
| Good luck on that puller.... I have a 3 leg puller and can only get one drum off.... the best drum puller made
is the Les Fairbanks puller.... check it out, I dont think there is a drum it cannot remove.
http://www.chrysler300club.com/rcmstuff/fairbanks/puller.html |
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Expert
Posts: 3480
Location: Montreal, Canada | The puller is four-legged, even though the photo make it look like there's only three. It works like a charm and is very heavy-duty!
Edited by soiouz 2011-04-24 8:23 AM
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Expert
Posts: 2679
| soiouz - 2011-04-24 8:22 AM
The puller is four-legged, even though the photo make it look like there's only three. It works like a charm and is very heavy-duty!
Ok, does look 3 leg. When you get the drums off put some anti-seize on the axel taper before you put the drums back on.
Then the next time you need to remove the drum it will com off easy. |
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Expert
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Location: Montreal, Canada | 59CRL - 2011-04-24 9:30 AM
soiouz - 2011-04-24 8:22 AM
The puller is four-legged, even though the photo make it look like there's only three. It works like a charm and is very heavy-duty!
Ok, does look 3 leg. When you get the drums off put some anti-seize on the axel taper before you put the drums back on.
Then the next time you need to remove the drum it will com off easy.
Will do. Thanks for the tip! |
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Location: NorCal | 59CRL - 2011-04-24 6:30 AM
When you get the drums off put some anti-seize on the axel taper before you put the drums back on.
Then the next time you need to remove the drum it will com off easy.
Bad advice, tapers go together dry. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 466
Location: Vancouver, Washington | I just picked one up myself...that will work for sure. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5139
Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | 57chizler - 2011-04-24 2:32 PM
59CRL - 2011-04-24 6:30 AM
When you get the drums off put some anti-seize on the axel taper before you put the drums back on.
Then the next time you need to remove the drum it will com off easy.
Bad advice, tapers go together dry. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | I agree with a dry taper
on all the pulley drive systems I have come across, the taper is always dry.
It is designed to wedge itself on and provide a greater surface area to grab onto than if it was a straight shaft
but lubing the shaft would make it easier to remove. Not nessesarily a good thing if its holding a wheel on
Mick |
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Expert
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| ttotired - 2011-04-25 5:45 AM
I agree with a dry taper
on all the pulley drive systems I have come across, the taper is always dry.
It is designed to wedge itself on and provide a greater surface area to grab onto than if it was a straight shaft
but lubing the shaft would make it easier to remove. Not nessesarily a good thing if its holding a wheel on
Mick
Well a disappointing update. I spent well over an hour with a 3 leg puller, air compressor, hammer and PB Blast, still cant get the passenger
rear drum off. The driver side pops off very easy. I do put a thin amount of anti-sieze on the taper and it hasnt caused any problems
in the past year. I see everyone say to put them together dry, yeah and good luck on ever getting that drum off again. I will have to get a
Fairbanks puller to get the other side off. |
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Expert
Posts: 1352
Location: Springville, CA | You will love the Fairbanks puller. The drum will come off so easy with a Fairbanks puller you'll think something broke before you examine everything and find out it's all okay.
Loyd |
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| Heat the hub so it will expand on the axle while applying pressure with the puller. Be sure to keep the axle nut on loose so the whole doesn't go flying. In stubborn cases several heat cold cycles with torch and ice water will be necessary. Try to put the ice water only on the axle and the heat only on the tub. Apply enough heat to get an even dark red glow. Don't let the glow get any brighter that that or allow spots. And use a hot enough torch that the hub heats quickly and doesn't have enough time to soak into the axle. You're trying to get a heat differential between them for this to work. It's going to be hard to save your axle, and it's mush on the end if you apply too much pressure and don't use heat to relax the hub just a tiny bit.
Edited by rbmain 2011-07-06 12:31 PM
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!
Posts: 19146
Location: bishop, ca | Another thing that is really nice about the Fairbanks guy is that its "thread studs" have long female unions
which take a powerful grip along the full length of the brake drum's studs.
On the 3 or 4 leg pullers, only the foot-ends take a short grip onto the brake drum studs, so that the drum studs
can and do get stretched or otherwise buggered in the process of removing the brake drums.
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Location: NorCal | 59CRL - 2011-07-05 4:41 PM
I do put a thin amount of anti-sieze on the taper and it hasnt caused any problems
in the past year.
Which illustrates the difference between doing it wrong and getting away with it and doing it right. If you applied enough power to the taper you might have a problem, sheared keys are common in high power apps.
I see everyone say to put them together dry, yeah and good luck on ever getting that drum off again.
Lots of folks assemble them dry (like the factory did) and don't have a problem removing them. Think about this, using anti-seize (or any lube) will allow the axle end to seat deeper in the hub taper at the specified nut torque...this can split the hub and might even make it harder to remove.
Edited by 57chizler 2011-07-07 3:55 PM
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| 57chizler - 2011-07-07 3:54 PM
59CRL - 2011-07-05 4:41 PM
I do put a thin amount of anti-sieze on the taper and it hasnt caused any problems
in the past year.
Which illustrates the difference between doing it wrong and getting away with it and doing it right. If you applied enough power to the taper you might have a problem, sheared keys are common in high power apps.
I see everyone say to put them together dry, yeah and good luck on ever getting that drum off again.
Lots of folks assemble them dry (like the factory did ) and don't have a problem removing them. Think about this, using anti-seize (or any lube ) will allow the axle end to seat deeper in the hub taper at the specified nut torque...this can split the hub and might even make it harder to remove.
Funny you mention that, took off with back drum a couple weeks ago and it is fine, no sheared key, and I have applied alot of power to the axel, enough to spin the wheels. Didnt think using anti-seize would upset you so much. Im just going to replace the drums anyway, they are a bad setup, no wonder why they switched to discs. My back drums seem to be out of round, the shoes stick all the time, so im sure the springs are stretched too. Im ready to scrap the whole drum setup and replace with AAJ.  |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 395
Location: Netherlands | Tapers ALWAYS go together dry, in any situation, not just car axles, this is basic mechanics! In fact clean and degrease before assembly...
If they wanted it to move easily they would never give you a taper in the first place, the keys are NOT there to take all the strain and they WILL shear....
Hammers or sliding hammers are a general bad idea and should not be used on something that involves bearings and thrust washers inside...
If worried about the drums being hard to pull off, get or make a SERIOUS heavy duty puller, I made my own after breaking two of them whilst heating/crimping the hub/axle, mine now makes the job a piece of cake without heating...
Also made a spanner to fit onto the drum puller to lock assembly against the ground while tightening the central puller bolt as a lot of pulling power gets lost in the drum turning...
Here are some pics...
If you're going for the AAJ rear setup please read following thread....Have many pics available if needed....Good luck!
Btw, I would not dare to give technical advice if I didn't know what I'm talking about....
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=38392&...
Edited by Windsor Wendy 2011-10-15 6:37 AM
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Perth Australia | Wow thats a nice looking puller
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| Wow. But it still depends on screwing a bolt down to make pressure. On this version you can't see the bolt. Too bad there isn't a hydraulic tool to do this. The reason the hubs stick is rust gets in there. The oxides of iron are bigger that the iron molecules, so the growth takes up the slack. Preventing rust when you reassemble is the answer to wet/dry. Richard
Edited by rbmain 2011-10-15 1:24 PM
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Expert
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Location: NorCal | 59CRL - 2011-10-14 5:49 PM
Funny you mention that, took off with back drum a couple weeks ago and it is fine, no sheared key, and I have applied alot of power to the axel, enough to spin the wheels.
If you spin the tires you're not stressing the axle key.
Didnt think using anti-seize would upset you so much.
Doesn't "upset" me at all, use a sledge hammer to install a windshield and it won't upset me but I reserve the right to question the sanity of it. |
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Expert
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Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | That will not get a frozen drum off, the older type puller that has hammer bar can more readily " shock" the drum loose while it pulls on it. See the first post.
Edited by Shep 2011-10-15 6:12 PM
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: Netherlands | Shep - 2011-10-16 12:11 AM
That will not get a frozen drum off, the older type puller that has hammer bar can more readily " shock" the drum loose while it pulls on it. See the first post.
Not sure what "That" in above comment stands for but with a socket and 3/4" connection bar wrench of about 80 cm's length this puller will free any frozen hub of it's shaft effortlessly when stood on the wrench end (85 KG's) and a little leg force without the bad practice of hammering on your axle.
The stem of the bolt is about an inch thick, with the use of a very fine thread and a full inch of engaged thread I'm really not worried about the thread, this thing will apply tons of pressure....
Ours had never been off in over 90000 miles, they could never get them off, brakes were all gone down to the steel, they would not budge with one of those 'Hammer things" whilst heating/crimping, broken 2 of them trying....
I considder those 'Hammer things" to be Micky Mouse stuff compared to "that"...
Actually quite amazing once you have an absolutly flex free puller to see how much the flange of the hub flexes before the hub comes of with a really loud bang and a cloud of smoke.....
Can I ask, have all you guys still got the drum "riveted" to the hubs by means of the wheel lug bolts like it was on our '61?
How the hell do you service the brakes, do you all really go through the ordeal of pulling the drums/hubs just to service the brakes?
There's really no need for this riveting system, you can remove the "riveting", take drum of the hub, replace wheel lug bolts and put drum on the hub loosely,
The lug bolts center the drum, the wheel with nuts on holds the drum in place on the hub, when wheel is removed pull of drum by hand leaving hub on the axle to easily inspect or service the brakes.....
That way a puller is only needed for replacing wheel bearings or seals. |
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Expert
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Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | What ordeal?, this process was done by every mechanic for years, from day one. The using the lug studs method does not truly center the drum on the hub as on some fl cars the center hole in the drum is slightly larger than the hub so the exact centering is done by the factory when the drum is riveted to the hub, I have tried the stud centering method in my shop and sometimes the drums do not run true and have brake shudder as an out of round drum would do. As to the puller, yes that is a quality unit, I have one like it but still use the OE type, maybe it's me. LOL
Edited by Shep 2011-10-16 12:31 PM
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13049
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Tapers shall be mounted dry - as said above, it's just the way they're constructed that obliges that. Now, the workshop manual says that you should apply some chalk on the tapers - that will ensure that the taper goes smoothly into seat and also helps somewhat when you demount the drums next. |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: Netherlands | Very possible that that's the case Shep, I'll be the first to admit to having zero knowledge about any other models but our '61, that's why I was asking....
I put both hubs in the lathe, mounted the drums to them in several o'clock positions and clocked out the drums, they ran perfectly round and true just centered on the lug studs...the studs were a very nice tight sliding fit in the drum too, no play whatsoever...
Would you say then that on some other models the lug studs sit out of center or are the holes in the drum out of center?
You would need to have some play in between the lug studs and the drum holes then to be able to correct for this before riveting?
Or do the drums sit in a pre-determined X o'clock position before riveting? That would mean drilling the holes for the drum and hub at the same time too just to ensure fitment?
With any of these parts out of center that would surely create a big imbalance in the running, are the hub/drum assemblies then balanced to correct for this?
And what if a lug stud fails and needs replacing? How do you do the riveting? Curious now....
I would have expected better than that from Chrysler to be honest when I look at how well our '61 is built....
Maybe our rear disc upgrade wasn't such a bad idea after all, grinn....
Edited by Windsor Wendy 2011-10-17 6:00 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 395
Location: Netherlands | Apart from all questions above and to get back to the original thread on the pullers I fail to see how a 3 or 4 legged puller can supply a nice evenly spread pressure when we've got 5 bolts on the hub,
especially when you're expected to strike the bloody thing 3 inches out of the center, seems to me like a fine way to distort the axle ends...
Think I'll stick to my home-made one that locks the hub at the same time...
Edited by Windsor Wendy 2011-10-17 6:06 PM
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Expert
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Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | I have a tapered adapter that fits the hub and mounts to a brake lathe, that way the drum is machined with the hub for true centering, replacement drums from Atlas and Kanter do not fit centered exactly on the hub, so this is another issue,. |
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Location: NorCal | wizard - 2011-10-16 7:31 AM
Now, the workshop manual says that you should apply some chalk on the tapers - that will ensure that the taper goes smoothly into seat and also helps somewhat when you demount the drums next.
I'm curious, what workshop manual says that? |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 7806
Location: Williams California | soiouz - 2011-04-11 6:44 PM
Would this one work for 1950's Mopars?
I bought this same puller from the Snap-on truck nearly thyirty years ago, pulled hundreds of taper axle drums from many makes of cars and trucks, never had one that would not come off. Just be sure the legs are all snugged to the drum, keeping their lengths equal. Unequal lengths will cause the puller to pull at a slight angle, and the drum will be extra stubborn then.
---John |
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Member
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Location: Redondo Beach, California | I have a 3 leg puller and still can't get the rear drum off my 57 Plymouth! tightened the puller and hit it several times with a sledge hammer, no movement. Soaked it with penetrating oil the other day, next step is to take a torch to it. |
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Expert
Posts: 2519
Location: central Illinois | Phil the Frenchie's got a youtube video on how he does it on his Imperial. Maybe someone has the link? |
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Expert
Posts: 4040
Location: Connecticut | 57LASub - 2011-12-20 2:13 PM I have a 3 leg puller and still can't get the rear drum off my 57 Plymouth! tightened the puller and hit it several times with a sledge hammer, no movement. Soaked it with penetrating oil the other day, next step is to take a torch to it. Torching off the drum is NOT the solution. Did you back off the center nut about a half dozen revolutions ? Is the puller centered ? Why don't you upload a picture of your setup. We may be able to identify where the problem is. Ron |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Atlanta GA USA | 58Donnie removes a rear brake drum.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcI-Di8BPI0 |
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Location: Redondo Beach, California | Great video, thank you for the link. That puller is a bit different that the one I am using (see attached photo of one similar), I rented it from a old brake shop that insisted it will take it off with a few wacks from a hammer and turns on the levers. Wish i could connect an impact gun to it.
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Member
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Location: Atlanta | This is what I have
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 774
Location: Atlanta GA USA | There are several versions of the tool that will work. I had to use a small sledge hammer on the "dog bone". Loosen the big nut enough to give the drum a place to go but if you take the nut all the way off, the drum may fly off in your direction, according to some sources. |
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Pau, S-W France | b5rt - 2011-12-20 8:26 PM
Phil the Frenchie's got a youtube video on how he does it on his Imperial. Maybe someone has the link?
Here are the videos
mounting off the "legs" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xww9KUoF6pE
installation of the "disc" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsavEqCDTTM
tightening and hammering. Need only one because the drum was removed one year ago !! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yE4rOpxXMoc
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Account deactivated by owner's request
Location: On this barrel | How about this for pulling axles?  
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Expert
Posts: 3396
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | That is a 65 Mopar based on the drum that is on the ground, funny thing here is I had a Belvedere11 with a transplanted Max Wedge, twisted an axle and almost had to do the same thing, the bearing is stuck in the housing here. |
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Location: Redondo Beach, California | Great video thank you. I think 1/2 my problem might have been properly balancing the tightness of the puller legs and also trying to keep the drum from turning. I will try to use a pipe wedged to the ground like Phil did in the last video. *Also hoping that penetrating oil I sprayed on Saturday will make a difference! |
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Veteran
Posts: 161
Location: Melbourne, Australia | This is what I made to remove my stuck drums. Worked like a champ!! Just wind on some torque then give a sharp blow to the end of the shaft ---- POP!
Edited by poly 2011-12-22 6:31 AM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 774
Location: Atlanta GA USA | $54.99
http://sastool.com/mpp-universal-hub-puller.html |
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Does this look like a correct rear wheel hub puller for FL cars??
