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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| I'm going into this blind. Have a lead on a car that hasn't seen daylight in 20 years. Dry storage from what I'm told. I can't account for the person that has seen it, but they judge it a #3. Car has been repainted a non factory color is all I know. I have no clue about AC or any options that may be on it. Realizing I'm not offering a lot of information here, anyone have thoughts on ranges for values? My goal is to drive with truck and trailer to see the car. I'll make an offer on site and take it away before buyers remorse sets in. Any information on trouble spots, things to look out for, etc would be appreciated. I'm supposed to have pictures within 7 days. This is a deal that is taking multiple parties to pull off as it involves an older lady who's husband is very sick and its his car. I'm not looking to pull a fast one on anybody, but don't want to overpay either. |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
 
Location: bishop, ca | Work backwards: what do you suppose that its fair market value would be, when it is fully restored, or, if it is cleaned up
to being in valuable Survivor-status---colors and equipment would be good to know---although it was probably fully-optioned---
and what would it cost you to clean it up to Survivor status or to #1 condition (if its current condition is too deteriorated for
you to clean it up to Survivor status?)
If you intend to keep the car, forever, its purchase price is not very important, so, it would appear that your interest may be in
turning the car for a profit.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| I rarely sell a car. I never sell something we work on. I might be something, drive it and sell it later, as I did a 69 roadrunner. I don't know the market on these cars, with that, don't want to find out 6 months from now I bought something at way too high a price. I still want to be into a car for a reasonable level. This isn't a car that will be started as a project till the end of next year, at the earliest. I see some for sale, but have no clue if they actually trade hands at those price levels. This is all about my dad, he's clamoring for a forward look convertible. Just trying to make pops happy without breaking my bank lol |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | Mike, the value of the car depends upon its model style, condition, equipment, colors and whether those factors are OEM or not,
and, finally, the motivation of the two parties to sell or to buy it.
He who wants 'it' more (to buy, or to sell) than the other party, loses-out....financially.
If you like the car, and want it, and can afford the asking price on it, you should buy it.
You say that you have no profit interest in it, and, you do not have to reveal to anyone your purchase price of it.
Edited by d500neil 2012-03-28 5:57 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1812
 
Location: Under the X in Texas | Personally I REALLY like the valuation tool that Haggerty Ins. provides free for hobby use.
http://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch
Try it, print out results, take with when you go see the car and deal based on its numbers. |
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Location: The Mile High City - Denver CO | Whoa! That is really good!
Much, much better than NADA or those other value guides!  |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | Yeah, try searching for a 1960 IMP vert, the Hagerty site, for example.
The NADA guide is as good as any negotiating tool (with no authority other than that of its being a visual aid).
It all comes down to whether the seller will accept your 'book' number and/or will try to get higher bids on the car.
Hagerty is an insurance company, and its guide/NADA, etc., is of more use in establishing an insurance value on an
owned-car rather than as a negotiating-purchase tool, but, whatever smoke-and-mirrors convinces a seller to sell for
'your' price works for you, or, maybe, for a seller, in countering a too-low purchase offer on his car.
A purchase agreement comes down to the motivation and knowledge of both parties in buying/selling an item.
Edited by d500neil 2012-03-28 8:13 PM
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Location: NY & VT | I've always found Old Cars Price Guide to be fairly accurate, though a bit low maybe sometimes on FL converts. A '60 Imp vert in # 3 is pretty rare and desirable, off the top of my head I'd be thinking around $45-50K to give you a number to start with, but the hard part for a non-expert is to determine if it really IS a #3. |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | Exactamundo.
Present the Price Guide and hope that it convinces the other party (high or low) to accept your
offer on the car.
Edited by d500neil 2012-03-28 8:16 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1812
Location: Under the X in Texas | Bringing a value guide quote (or 2 or 3) along with you takes the "What I say versus What YOU say" out of the conversation and shows you do your homework and have legitimacy to what you are saying. Printing out the discussion of the condition ratings gives further cause for intelligent conversation. If you have been to multiple auctions you know that many in the audience are sitting there with a value guide to watch the comparison of book to current market. And particularly in the case of popular cars they have to be absolutely exceptional originals or grand restorations to do better than what is printed in the book. Today of course its changing from carrying a book to carrying an internet savvy electrical screen and the quickest access to an accurate source of info is the Hagerty site.
And Mike, I hope you can get together on that '60 Imperial. You won't be disappointed by what Chrysler put into that car when it was new. I can't speak for what has happened to that particular car in the intervening 52 years of course! |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | An elderly type person would probably not be impressed with a computer presentation, and a fast-talking buyer, trying too-
hard to impress him/her with his knowledge about their car's value.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| Got pictures, appears to be a #3 car, although only had outside pictures, nothing underneath. It has been on concrete the past 20 years, enclosed. Car was originally white, is now red. Appears to be in good shape, but everything would have to be redone to make it right. We're supposed to hear back next week, I'll make an offer and see what happens. |
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Location: NY & VT | THE KEY to real condition and potential restorability at any kind of reasonable cost for any Foward Look is What Lies Beneath! Floors, rockers, inner sills, inner wheel houses, etc etc. Of course being an Imp convert makes it a more viable proposition than most! |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | A full boat resto on an IMP vert will not be cheap, what with its full leather interior and many electro-mechanical options
on it.
If the car drives and presents itself well, your best bet would be to get it operating mechanically reliably and just drive/enjoy
it, without obsessing over deteriorating its newly-restored appearance.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| I had told my father, going off the description, that it was a 60k dollar restoration. Paint, body and interior at 20k. Chrome/stainless 10k, driveline 10k, suspension/brakes/electronics 5k, convertible components 5k and 10k for random crap you never think about. This doesn't account for any labor. Hopefully I can get it and it will be fun a project. We're finishing up a 70 cuda now, 65 cuda will be done in 4 months, 300D will start after than, then wrap up the 50 nash. At that point, we'd start on this. That will give plenty of time to do the random stuff that takes forever, such as rechroming, door panels, carpet, seats, etc. Things that can be unbolted or taken out/off easily. |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | $60K is about right, with a purchase price of about $20K on the car.
+/- 80K invested with a market value (non-driven #1) of $100,000.00-125,000.00, depending upon the auction site, the
timing of when it crosses the block, and the motivation/knowledge of the bidder(s).
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| Yup, that's exactly how I was going to offer. My goal is to get the car for 20k which hopefully includes the finder fee for the gentleman that contacted us. Searching last night, doesn't appear a lot of these have changed hands. 18 months ago one sold for 92ish that was a 7 year old resto. A #1 show winning car didn't sell at an RM auction for 140. From what little info I gathered, it was as close to a #1 as you can get from documentation/originality. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| Flew in to take a look at car. Agreed on price and coming to get it next week. |
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Location: NY & VT | Congrats! It's a car worth the effort. I was offered a good one 25 yrs ago and shoulda coulda woulda. Lotsa pics please!! |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| I will post the few I have later today. I can't wait to get the car and document everything. This will be our first restoration doing everything back 100% stock. It appears this car might have been a triple white car. White body/interior/top. Seems odd. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | Congratulations, Mike!
The car will look a lot better (classier) in all-white than it does, in all-that-red.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| Yes, I agree. I hope to get some feedback from you guys once I have the car and can fully document. I want to get this car done RIGHT. I have a lot of research to do. Such as how the door panels should be, proper material for seats and all that fun stuff. I want it to be as close to original as possible. This is a different thing for us lol. We're used to modernizing everything. |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | Well, lucky you; all of your answers are no further away than are the Imperialistic-Club members.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 344
| Mike, looks like you caught a Beauty!
I see it is optioned well too. A.C., Swivel seats, Auto beam changer, e.t.c. The best part is it is a CONVERTIBLE! This is a rare bird indeed! Only 618 built. I love it.
Car looks to be in very good condition too. I would say it has had a cosmetic restoration of some level in the past?
As D500 has said in the previous post, the Online Imperial Club is a invaluable source of info for all of us Imperial owners.
When you get it on the hoist (or roll under it), take a look at the floor pan on the front outer extremities. You will see a angled (45 deg to the chassis rail) stiffening brace. This is installed in such a way it catches road grime e.t.c. and is the most likely place to find rust.
The '60 Imperial was billed as 'America's most carefully built car'. You will see why when you restore this car. I am still amazed when working on my own '60.
Steve.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| The story I have so far is the car was painted in the late 80's. Sold to a gentleman around 1990, he tagged it for 3 years, then parked it in his basement. The car never came out till last week. He spent time buying odd/ends off ebay for the car. His health turned bad and the car was sold to a local broker type, who then sold it to me. The pictures on the rollback were going to the brokers house, which I visited yesterday. When they painted the car, they left the hood and trunk shut, so under that is white. I'm very excited to get this in and begin work. |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13792
Location: Parts Unknown | Mike McCandless - 2012-04-28 11:52 AM
Yes, I agree. I hope to get some feedback from you guys once I have the car and can fully document. I want to get this car done RIGHT. I have a lot of research to do. Such as how the door panels should be, proper material for seats and all that fun stuff. I want it to be as close to original as possible. This is a different thing for us lol. We're used to modernizing everything.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
So, mocking up Fury sidetrim and painting it red and white isn't in the cards for this car ? 
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| Finally got the car here at the house. Took a ton of pictures today. Going to load them up to a website so everyone can view. What can do I about finding a build sheet or do they not do those? I want to do everthing I can to fixing this car back 100% original. The interior has been redone. Any insight would be helpful, thanks guys! |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 932
| Is that a little flag holder glued to the front fender? |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| I'm an idiot, here is the data plate
Edited by Mike McCandless 2012-05-13 4:50 PM
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | Have you checked under the rear seat cushion?
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| Yes, the interior has been recovered and nothing was found. I took it out today to take a peak. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| I only pulled the bottom seat out. When I unbolted the back seat, it was had a covering on the back and didn't want to dig into that just yet (mom would have killed me lol). Is it normally in the back or the bench? |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/my65cuda/1960%20chrysler/
A ton of pictures |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | If it's there, it ought to be located on the lower cushion, between the padding & the springing.
Other people have found Broadcast Sheets in the inner 1/4 panels, on the floor pan, and one guy even found a discarded
IBM CARD, for his car, sandwiched between the carpeting and the jute padding!
Remember the Continental in the French Connection?
Get to work.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 554
Location: Ontario, Canada | What an amazing find! I'm sure it will be a pleasure to restore. It doesn't look like you'll have much (if any) rust repair to deal with. I hope someday you can bring that to Moparfest in New Hamburg Ont. I'd love to see it in person! |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | Mike, when you get done re-painting your car, if you are interested in authenticity, you should try to replicate
the OEM finish on the P/T plate, where it was apparently partially masked off with a strip of masking tape, exposing
a portion of its brownish(?) primer.
L.A. built Dodges have this finish-appearance on their P/T plates; didn't know that some IMP's also had this protocol, too.
 (IMP.jpg)
Attachments
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 IMP.jpg (113KB - 11 downloads)
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | Heh; there's a program, out of Ontario, on the Home & Garden TV network, called "Holmes on Homes", where the star-contractor
goes to homes that have been screwed up by other 'general contractors', and re-configures the horrible work.
Your removing that red paint kind of resembles the restoration work that is done on that TV show!
Edited by d500neil 2012-05-13 8:38 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| Well, our family isn't known for doing accurate restorations. We do resto mods that get driven. I want the car to be accurate as possible. It will be done to the highest degree we can. It will also go on the road. We don't trailer cars. These cars are meant to be seen. There was a guy at carlise that drove his 300D convertible, I thought it was awesome. From what they told us, he drives the car ALL over the place. How it should be. |
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Expert
Posts: 1337
Location: new york | Whats it worth! Its priceless! What a find! Get that baby running and use it ! Its spring time... Restore it later that car has FUN FUN FUN written all over it!
Enjoy it , use in good health& spirit! HAPPY MOTORING! Victor. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| Car has set for a LONG time. Would need a lot of work to be road worthy. I want to start acquiring things for the restoration! |
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Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 15130
Location: bishop, ca | The good thing is, you do not have to do any significant undercarriage/suspension restoration work to the car.
The shiny sides are like new; the dirty side stays dirty.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 314
| This car is up for sale. I'm not interested in a car causing a fight within my family. My desire to keep it original is meeting a lot of resistance. This is a hobby and not worth causing a fight over. If anyone is interested in the car, please contact me at: My65cuda@aol.com. You can see all the pictures here: http://s120.photobucket.com/albums/o191/my65cuda/1960%20chrysler/
Any fair offer will be considered. I'm a motivated seller. Just don't jerk me around, if you make an offer be able to back it up. The state of NC has to inspect the car to provide me the title. It takes 3-4 weeks. This process starts next week. |
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Value of a 1960 imperial convertible
