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open the oil pan drain plugJump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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| di_ch_NY56 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 643 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: AG/ZH, Switzerland | Today's one of my most frustrating days. I drove my Chrysli to bring the oil to the normal temperature. I lifted the front end to get access to the oil pan drain plug. A hex nut socket doesn't fit (it collides with the converter case) so I tried the land lords adjustable wrench. I noticed that the drain plug is tightened ways more than I could apply. I assume it's torqued ways higher than 35 lbs*in like the service manual addresses. I only could say "Come off of there you #@*&^%!" and quit the work. I gonna order a fixed size wrench (1 1/8 size). Happy Motoring! Dieter BTW: at the drain hex are signs of abuse... not from me. I didn't retch until the tool slid off | ||
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| Phatton |
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Regular Posts: 53 ![]() ![]() Location: Camptown PA | Yeah we all have days like that. I usually get mad, grab a hammer, beat on the wrench handle with the hammer, round the flats of the plug off. Garb the big vice grip pliers, put them on, beat on its handle with the hammer. Then go out and buy a new drain plug and vice grips. I once turned an oil change into a two day and 4 trips to town evolution. I've heard that 4 wraps of Det cord works well, but no one will sell me explosives anymore. At least you did not break anything - yet. Good luck. | ||
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| di_ch_NY56 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 643 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: AG/ZH, Switzerland | Thank you very much for your response. I wouldn't say anything about the drain plug if there was no oil change in early March 2011 or end of February 2011 at my mechanic's in Switzerland. So this plug was open about a year ago and apparently he overtightened ways more than the specification addresses. Actually I'm trying to order a ring end slogging wrench which is designed to use a big hammer. Furthermore I'm waiting for all parts I ordered. Then I'll try to do an appointment with a do it yourself shop /w car lifts. It's better and easier to work at the car when it's higher than just about a foot (/w stands). Happy Motoring! Dieter (Bahco 7444SG-Z.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Bahco 7444SG-Z.jpg (32KB - 12 downloads) | ||
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| 1960fury |
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Expert Posts: 2732 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: northern germany | dieter, i never heard about a tight drain plug (can't be rusted tight) but DO NOT use this type of wrench on tight bolts with rounded off heads! | ||
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| Windsor Wendy |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 395 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Netherlands | Hi Dieter, I agree with Sid on this one, those things would also count as abuse together with your land lords adjustable misery... A better bet for a bolt with rounded corners would be a hexagonal ring spanner ie 6 points as opposed to a 12 points spanner as it has more contact surface on the flat sides. These spanners are usually stamped out of a plate of steel. I have several of them, made by Hazet and Gedore but I don't know if they were "special" tools for something or if there is a range of them available... Also most force without damage is applied by increasing pressure on the spanner, not shocks with a hammer, use an extension on the spanner for more pressure... I would never recommend pliers for anything but there is actually a pair that would do the job, don't laugh yet! Knipex (Swiss?) make a pair of pliers that grab evenly on the flats and not on the corners, they're like a handheld vice... As all force is applied to the lever-side only, it only wants to close more the harder you push/pull, the other handle of the pliers barely needs holding, it grabs itself so these work good with an extension on the handle as well. I've found these to be extremely useful for many purposes, but especially for rounded off bolts, the range on the jaws is incredible and so is the force applied as it always stays parallel whatever opening you set it at.. They come in 2 sizes, with the pair of them you could attack and dismantle nearly everything! The only pliers I DO like using... (Knipex.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Knipex.jpg (19KB - 13 downloads) | ||
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| di_ch_NY56 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 643 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: AG/ZH, Switzerland | Thank you very much for your answers, Sid and Eric I know that there was a very limited space and the landlord had an adjustable wrench (a Geodore like a Bahco 80 series). This tool I used to try and measure the width within the paws. So I figured out 1 1/8. I was lying on a roller coaster and couldn't turn myself to one side due to the limited height. I don't think that the screw (or drain plug) has frozen because it was away about 5/4 years ago. I count on the chance that there is no copper ring between the oil pan and the screw and the guy tightened as much as he could while my Chrysli was on a car lift. This tool I only take as the last chance if the normal combination wrench would fail (due to the limited force I could apply). I assume the most important preparation is to bring my Chrysli to a place where a car lift is. Happy Motoring! Dieter (DSC_1255resized.JPG) Attachments ---------------- DSC_1255resized.JPG (182KB - 15 downloads) | ||
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| 57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3224 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Blythewood, SC | I hate to state the obvious, but why not just use a 1 1/8 box end wrench? That's always worked for me. | ||
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| di_ch_NY56 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 643 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: AG/ZH, Switzerland | Thank you very much, Ron. I just ordered several tools, among other items a 1 1/8" combination wrench (an open end and a ring/box end at each end). The longer I work at my Chrysli, the more complete my inventory will get. Further more on the way to me is a package of 25 oil drain plug gaskets. I think they'll last for a very long time, except I'll sell some of the gaskets. Happy Motoring! Dieter Edited by di_ch_NY56 2012-06-12 12:56 PM | ||
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| local2Ed |
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Regular Posts: 96 ![]() ![]() ![]() | I don't even bother with vise-grips. I go right for a pipe wrench if a nut or bolt is rounded off, providing I can get the pipe wrench on it. I have an assortment from 4" to 24" so one of those usually work. | ||
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| di_ch_NY56 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 643 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: AG/ZH, Switzerland | Yesterday evening to night I was able to use a do it yourself car lift. The owner - Mike - was doing most of the work. With the correct size ring wrench it was easy to open the drain plug. The oil was black like raw oil out of the earth. Just before mounting the drain plug again, Mike took out two fingers of sludge. Please look at the peculiar color. He thinks there are a lot of metal parts (worn areas) in the sludge. Happy Motoring! Dieter (IMG_0766resized.jpg) (IMG_0769resized.jpg) (Sludge_oilPan.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_0766resized.jpg (88KB - 14 downloads) IMG_0769resized.jpg (160KB - 14 downloads) Sludge_oilPan.jpg (158KB - 13 downloads) | ||
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| Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 1688 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: N.W. Fla. | Might be time to pull the engine. Well, throw oil with zinc in it & see what happens. | ||
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| 58coupe |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 337 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Alaska | Dieter The first thing your mechanic should do is stick a magnet in that sludge, if it pulls out small steel particles (more than just 1 or 2 tiny ones) this is not good. If it is bearing material, it is not magnetic but it will look shiny. Put the sludge on a paper towel or coffee filter and wash with solvent to see what the particles are, they might just be hard carbon which is normal for an older engine. | ||
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| Shep |
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Expert Posts: 2328 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Cut open the filter and see what's trapped in there also. | ||
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| di_ch_NY56 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 643 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: AG/ZH, Switzerland | Thank you very much for your responses. Actually I filled in cheap 10W-40 plus a bottle of ZDDP (the ZDDP Max bottle I got from Wizard, big thank you) to meet the F specification. I put a note on top of the dash pad that says change the oil 300 mi later (at 40344 mi). Then I could proceed the procedure to filter the particles (with house hold paper, gas and sludge). Mike asked about the oil pan gasket and I confirmed that I got all gaskets to remove the valve covers, the intake manifold, the valley cover and the oil pan. New spark plug tubes and gaskets are waiting as well. Actually I don't know where it is from, because the oil pressure still is good - little bit above 50% when at idle and normal temperature. I do not have any clatter or rattle noise when the engine is at normal temperature or cold. Happy Motoring! Dieter BTW: Mike showed me a way how to exchange the oil filter quite easy and he was looking for a gasket between the screw and the case. I trust him. | ||
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| di_ch_NY56 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 643 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: AG/ZH, Switzerland | Yesterday I changed the oil again, after 310 mi (around 500 km). It was very black. The pictures are at (relating to the peculiar color of the sludge, too) http://forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=24680 Happy Motoring! Dieter | ||
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| bel5758 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 470 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | I got real lucky when I dropped the oil pan on mine the first time....someone previously put a magent in the bottom. Right away we knew things weren't bad. Just a thought. | ||
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open the oil pan drain plug