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My 300 G restoration just started
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-02-02 6:58 AM (#425456 - in reply to #425419)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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db300 - 2014-02-01 11:16 PM

What cam did you choose to run?


Mopar 4286677
retarded 4 degrees
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-02-16 5:28 PM (#427612 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Spent some time at the garage this week end and got all the brake lines done and components preassembled. Now every single thing is new and updated. Only original parts are the front and rear separation blocks and rear drums becouse they looked so good.

Edited by Adventurer 60 2014-02-16 5:32 PM
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-02-16 5:36 PM (#427614 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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By the way, thumbs up for the AAJ brakes! great products! I highly recommend!
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-02-18 3:17 PM (#427876 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Here some pics of the brake update

Edited by Adventurer 60 2014-02-18 3:21 PM




(Jarru4.jpg)



(Jarru3.jpg)



(Jarru1.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-02-18 3:24 PM (#427877 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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I located adjusting valve for the rear brakes handy to reach when needed.
I really do like to burn some rubber sometimes



(jarru2.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2014-02-18 3:49 PM (#427883 - in reply to #427877)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



Expert

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If your purpose is just to burn rubber, it would be better to use a line-lock on the front line instead. That way, you don't have to re-adjust your rear valve afterward and you still have full braking capability in the meantime without shutting off your rear line.
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Windsor59
Posted 2014-02-18 4:21 PM (#427887 - in reply to #427883)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Super nice work and it go fast
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-02-19 7:54 AM (#427956 - in reply to #427883)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Powerflite - 2014-02-18 3:49 PM

If your purpose is just to burn rubber, it would be better to use a line-lock on the front line instead. That way, you don't have to re-adjust your rear valve afterward and you still have full braking capability in the meantime without shutting off your rear line.


That (line lock) is totally illegal in this country, vehicle wont pass the inspection and I do not want cheat them by hiding it somewhere.
Besides it wont happen too often. I think I can count the rounds to return it back.
By the way have you heard about drifting?
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wizard
Posted 2014-02-19 8:39 AM (#427961 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Jari, make a distance in a lath, just like a steel ring, with the proper height (once found out the reduction set). Cut it open like a "U" and mount it on the reduction valve shaft - tighten until fixed. For "playtime", just open the valve, remove the U-shaped ring and close the valve completely.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-03-29 11:33 AM (#433692 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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WINTER IS OVER! Day time temperatures rise up to 50's (F) even there is still some frost at nite.
Days are long and gettin longer and longer till there is no nite at all
Hopefully winter is not making a back stroke -it still could.

I was so exited of spring today and made a total clean up of the garage. Throwed lot of stuff to garbage and recyling pin. sweeped and vacuumed floors
I had pull her out to take sun bath.

Project has not gone like I expected. She should painted by now but my paint/body guy has been busy.



(WP_000548.jpg)



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FIN ME
Posted 2014-03-31 9:01 AM (#433958 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Good to see your car enjoying the sunshine! My car hasn't seen the light of day since last June.

Hope spring "sticks" in you part of the world; I'm hoping the same thing for around here!


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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-12-06 5:52 PM (#463838 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Not much has happened to 300G project since last spring.
I have worked with my other cars and my Harley but this week I started assembling the engine.
Engine was literally crap, full of insects andsome sort of mice crap, bended heads and worn out cylinders and cam.
Now it is completely re builded and blueprinted. Bored to 0.30 over size. Camsaft has little bit more degrees and lift than original.
retarded to match timing of original ram engine cam. Would be interesting to see results at dyno when the time comes.
Heads are also completely done with new valves, quides, springs





(motti1.jpg)



(motti.jpg)



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oldwood
Posted 2014-12-06 8:20 PM (#463846 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started


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Orange Filter is a No No!!! In all of my searches I haven't even found a 300 tail pipe to sniff. However, I can live my dreams through your 300. I'm not complaining as I have a few special cars that give me that "Warm and Fuzzy" feeling!!! Your 300 is looking good.
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d500neil
Posted 2014-12-06 11:06 PM (#463854 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil!

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Frams have not enjoyed good reputations for internal construction quality in the past few years.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2014-12-07 4:15 PM (#463904 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Guys! That filter is going to be changed (with the oil) right after engine has started, warmed up and cam shaft has ran in.
It'll be workin about half an hour. Besides I have nothing against Fram or any other brand. it is just a oil filter. What colour it shoud have then?
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-15 4:46 PM (#470151 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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I finally got front sheet metal assembled back into the car. Caps are quite ok now but bumped against some old quality issues of Chrysler craftsmanship.



(rysss4.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-15 4:53 PM (#470152 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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This is right side rear fender and door gap. Door is sitting nicely at the front, gap is nice too but asy you can see, at rear it ok, level with rear fender, but at the edge of the fin door is agout 4-5 millimiters lower!
Drivers side has same issue.


Edited by Adventurer 60 2015-02-15 4:57 PM




(rysss3.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-15 5:00 PM (#470155 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Driver side front fender, door and gaps between them looks good, but then again rear quarter of the front fender where it joints to rockers look like crap.
Now I understand why this car had New Yorkers rocker trims assebled by the dealer

Edited by Adventurer 60 2015-02-15 5:04 PM




(rysss2.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-15 5:10 PM (#470158 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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This is worst nightmare The hood makes a curve at the passenger side making the gap between right fender and hood look awful. Otherwice hood sits nice, even at the back. I cant live with this. Should I cut/hammer/weld fender or hood?



(rysss.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-15 5:29 PM (#470162 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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At rear I rechaped (about year ago) trunk hole to fit with the trunk lid. Well gaps are now mostly ok but the front side corners of the lid are about 5 mm too high when all other edges are level with the body.
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ttotired
Posted 2015-02-15 5:33 PM (#470163 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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It looks like the skin on the hood was not folded over correctly, so, its the hood that you need to fix

I have an issue with my dodge hood that I didnt notice until after I painted it (it wasnt assembled on the car until it was finished), the hood has been sprung.

When its closed, it sits up about 1 cm above the edge of the fender about 1/4 the way along from the cowl and I cant get it to bend back

I have another hood that I will have to paint ect

Fixing those door edge height problems you have there could be a major problem, it looks like they were never the right size to start with?

Just had another look, I think you need to raise the front of the doors and then bring the fenders up to match?

It looks like have almost zero door gap along the sills and the bottom of the fender is to low, by raising the whole door, it should lessen the differences you have at the rear panel to door and allow the frond fender (or the entire front clip) to be raised to bring the bottom of the fender inline.

Hard bit is if you go to high, the top edge of the fender will end up higher than the cowl vent panel

I gave up on gaps on my dodge, didnt matter which way I went, it would always be messed up somewhere

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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-16 2:10 AM (#470182 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Yes, hood has not folded correctly, I might grind the edge (2-3 mm off) and then weld it to hold - but welding the hood might couse other issues to it
Doors, hood and trunk lid never have been the right size.
I cant rise the fender anymore, top edge would end up much higer than cowl vent panel and front lower corner of the door will hit the fender corner (or minimize the gap)
Cant rise the door or one side of the door, doors sits good in their places now, all gaps are good around the whole door. Door just does´nt have the same vertical shape with the rear fender edge.
I am also in same situation, what ever move I make I am messed up in the other spot.
But I am not giving up yet I want those gaps look even
I think adjustingis over, its time for the power tools


Edited by Adventurer 60 2015-02-16 2:14 AM
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ttotired
Posted 2015-02-18 4:10 AM (#470348 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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I dont want to keep talking in Jans thread

With the twisted door, there was a thread I saw on here quite a while ago about body line up problems and there was a tool to twist doors that were wrong, I think it was basically a long pole that had clamps on it so you could twist it how you wanted it

It looked absolutely barbaric

There is a set of mopar reference books that shows how to do it that I have, but I think it came from the 300 club web site?

If I find the link to them, I will let you know

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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-19 9:00 AM (#470440 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Thanks Mick, I'll search for that info. It sounds to be much better than fabricating front fender. For door to rear fender lineup issue I will do what Jan said, drill the spot welds off of the rear fender and adjust it to match with the door.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-23 8:47 AM (#470705 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Looks much better now after adjusting the rear fender



(ovi.jpg)



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wizard
Posted 2015-02-23 9:56 AM (#470712 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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That looks really good Jari, better than factory
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-26 3:35 AM (#470991 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Did some work with drivers door yesterday.
This what it was before



(ovi ennen.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-26 3:37 AM (#470992 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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This is how it was when I left the carage. Not finished yet.



(ovi jjjlkeen.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-02-26 3:42 AM (#470993 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Hood edge is also now straighter



(konep.jpg)



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matt
Posted 2015-02-26 2:41 PM (#471036 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started


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Nice work.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-03-16 5:41 PM (#472614 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Paint shop day



(maalarille1.jpg)



(maalarille 2.jpg)



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wizard
Posted 2015-03-17 2:36 AM (#472646 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Great Jari - that's an important step and soon you'll have only "the decoration" left.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-03-17 3:43 AM (#472648 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Yes Wizard, the most intresting part of the restoration ahead. Where can I find all missing parts
In this case I go the hard way. I let it dry during the assembly - few months. It will have a second paint job after that, redo if there is something, sand the whole car again and spray the clear coat.
We'll see.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-03-22 4:00 PM (#473149 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Now whent the body is in paintshop its good time restore all kind of nuts and bolts. Friday I got parts back from the sinkplater,
ashtrays, ram linkages, carburetor parts... plating cost only 30 euros!



(20150321_125523_resized.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-03-22 4:07 PM (#473151 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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This bellcrank assy for the carb linkages is self made and now plated



(20150321_192927_resized.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-04-10 6:09 AM (#474937 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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work at the paint job goes on slowly (as I wishded and planned)
They let it dry in peace after every paint layer before the next step



(20150325_155837_resized.jpg)



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wizard
Posted 2015-04-10 8:16 AM (#474946 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Good progress Jari - looks like the batmobile somewhat in the flat black
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rockerarm
Posted 2015-04-10 10:44 AM (#474966 - in reply to #463904)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Adventurer 60 - 2014-12-07 4:15 PM Guys! That filter is going to be changed (with the oil) right after engine has started, warmed up and cam shaft has ran in. It'll be workin about half an hour. Besides I have nothing against Fram or any other brand. it is just a oil filter. What colour it shoud have then?

 

No problem using fram filters. I've used them for 40 years, racers use them. I've experience failures with Wix, motorcraft, purolators, but never had a fram fail.

The filters were on the engine when it was painted at the engine plant, In your case it would have been black.

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wizard
Posted 2015-04-10 12:41 PM (#474989 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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Next time you change your filter, use a hacksaw and open it - that will reveal a lot as for quality, no matter which brand.

Oh by the way, I was trying to get an answer from Purolator for 3 months abouth the full capacity in their Purolator Classic L30001- dead silence... I filled the old one to the brim and made several drain holes carefully.

Then I informed Purolator of the capacity is 6 deciliters in a Purolator Classic L30001 - dead silence.........
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-05-03 6:20 AM (#477217 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Some update photos



(20150423_153017_resized.jpg)



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-05-12 2:15 AM (#478061 - in reply to #477217)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



Elite Veteran

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Another layer of primer




(20150511_155142_resized.jpg)



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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2015-05-15 3:59 AM (#478329 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Wow Jari
It look wonderful now with the second layer of primer. Keep on going. I'm interested with the progress you're doing as well.

 

What I do not see are the grooves at the rear panel near the corners of the deck lid opening. My 60 Letter has these grooves to drain (or at least to try to) the weatherstrip perimeter around the trunk lid opening. As far as I remember Sven (Wizard) mentioned these groove in one thread.

 

Happy Motoring!

 

Dieter

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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-05-15 6:37 PM (#478393 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Dieter, all there is stock as bossible, you can see a pic at 2nd bage of this topic when it was just done. I just added the drain tubes in order to guide water under the car. You can see the holes in the corners. There is a tube and a hose, not just a hole there.

The gray primer is guite thick, its been dried couble of weeks now. it is going to be sanded very carefully again in order to make the body laser straight and possibly gonna need more that stuff to few spots.
Actual paint is going to be sprayed at the end of this month. (wich is not the final surface)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2015-05-16 8:57 AM (#478453 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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Thanks Jari

I noticed the holes as well and thought they could be the drainage. I wish good luck with your project. It looks fantastic. And thank you for sharing your progress.

 

Happy Motoring!

 

Dieter

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Mike McCandless
Posted 2015-05-16 10:42 AM (#478457 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started


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Awesome!
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-07-29 5:14 PM (#485564 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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My 300 G Project has been on a Holiday for many many weeks but now something happens again.

These are the pictures from this monday. few more layers has been sprayed and sanded down.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-07-29 5:16 PM (#485565 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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My 300 G Project has been on a Holiday for many many weeks but now something happens again.

These are the pictures from this monday. few more layers has been sprayed and sanded down.




Edited by Adventurer 60 2015-07-29 5:23 PM
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-07-29 5:23 PM (#485567 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-07-29 5:24 PM (#485568 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: Re: My 300 G restoration just started



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s**t happens. I try to post pics later.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2015-07-30 1:52 PM (#485653 - in reply to #353311)
Subject: RE: My 300 G restoration just started



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