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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1110
 
Location: Tulare Ca | Hey All! Unfortunatly Yesterday My Engine Blew A Head Gasket. So I Figured Since The Car Had A 10+ Year Break and hasent Been Opened Sinced The Early 80's That Its well Overdue For A Rebuild. But im On A Budget Of 2k For The Engine and Tranny (Although As Far as i know the Tranny Is still in Decent Shape). I Havent Open It Up Yet So Its Anyone Guess As far As Bore size
My Question Does Anyone Know of A Good Rebuild Kit? I Know Of Kanter But They Seem A Little Pricy(Maybe thats Just me). Has Anyone Used This Seller Before? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-Dodge-318-Poly-MASTER-Engine-Kit-1...
They seem To Have Great Ratings.
also Any Price ideas As Far As A TF Trans rebuild If I Took it In Would Be Appriciated  |
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| Don't fix it if it works, you're asking for trouble, TF or 318. Fix what broke and be sure you fixed why it broke as well. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
 
Location: Perth Australia | Yep, I used them for my parts
All was good except they supplied the wrong core plugs (might be fixed now as I told them) and
the crank gear for the timing chain was the wrong one (had been incorrectly packed), but they fixed it all up without a problem.
You will not get the little core plugs that go into the rocker arm tubes, so dont wreck them.
$2000.00 will not rebuild your engine and tranny
Strip the engine down first to see what you need (get the machine shop you are going to use to check your bores and
crank sizes so you get the right ones).
This is what I got done on mine
2x4 manifold and carbs (about $2000 once it was all there)
New valves re cut for unleaded and of coarse, new valve seats to match.
Crank ground to 10 thou under
Engine bored to 30 thou over
New cam bearings installed
Obviously, new pistons and rings and pins
Rods checked, OK
Block was decked (head surface)
Heads re machined
New oil pump
New water pump
New distributor and leads
New coil
New radiator and all coolant hoses
New oil filter and lines (you most likely dont need this as Aussie poly's have a remote filter)
Cam re ground to suit the carbs
Lifters re surfaced
Rockers re surfaced
Checked push rods for straighness (is that a word?)
2x4 manifold welded and machined to take out the exhaust crossover
A number of scotch and cokes and a few late nights.
I have not added it all up yet (and probably never will), but the machining ect came to about $3000 + the parts on top
I recon to make an engine the same as mine (without labour) would have benn in the vecinity of 6 to 7 thousand dollars.
As I said, if it dont need it and your on a budget, dont get carried away and just fix it.
If your not very mechanical, see if you can get a mechanic to look at it for you after you get the heads off, you might get away with just a gasket set and maybe a little head work
As you can see, I pretty much had to or wanted to do everything and it adds up fast.
The rebuild kit for the trans (from fatsco) was quite comprehensive, but if I have to do it again, I will pay someone ($3000 would cover it I think)
I hope this gives you an idea
If the trans was working good, leave it alone (big can of worms in there and definately not easy)
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Expert
Posts: 3031
Location: N.W. Fla. | Think I've seen positive reviews of their Hemi parts. Wonder if cast rings is all that's available... |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 873
Location: ALABAMA, HEART OF DIXIE | My Question Does Anyone Know of A Good Rebuild Kit? QUOTE] I would recommend locating only the parts you need on an individual basis. The kits are put together using parts of various quality and include many unneeded items. You pay for this. Kanters is OK but be prepaired to go around the block a few times, and receiving "less then best" quality stuff. Try Northwestern supply in Michigan. There are others who can supply top quality stuff..... google it. http://northwesternautosupply.com/ Edited by rockerarm 2013-06-18 9:56 AM
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Expert
Posts: 1506
Location: Colo Spgs | Myke
The 1958 A-318 is the same to the end of the 1961 production year. There are some Head Design Changes that started in 1962 production year ( and stayed
until the end of the 1966 production year ).
Contact The NAPA Auto Parts Store in Tulare or Visialia to ask if they have a Machine Shop to rebuild your engine. If so they will do as you want or as needed
and when finished you will have a way to holler if something is not correct.
About 90% of the parts and etc is the same as all LA-273's ... LA-318's and LA-340's ( Timing Assembly - Rod Bearing's - Crank Bearing's - Cam Bearings -
Water Pump - LA318 Ring's ( 1967 to 1987 ) - Oil Pump.
The Rocker Arm's have the same part number as any 1971 or older MoPar Slant Six.
The No-No's are A-318 Piston's, The A-318 Cam and related Solid Lifter parts.
The Forward Look Site has a Plymouth Fury "satilite site" and yahoo groups has a 318 poly group. Let them both know you just want to re-build the engine - not to make
a NASCAR Contender.
Rodger & Gabby
COS |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1110
Location: Tulare Ca | Good New! I Drained The oil And Water Today And Found No Water In the Oil and Vice Versa For The Water. But that Means I Still Need To Find The Reason As To Why My Radiator Is Bubbling Like It Its. Altough I Recently Found Small Hole in My Radiator where it Got dinged in One Of The Tubes ( and Was Leaking) So Perhaps The Is the Cause. Im Going To Take The Radi. Down To A Radi Shop And Have It Fixed To See if Maybe This Was It.(Its Gonna Need It Either Way) |
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Expert
Posts: 3031
Location: N.W. Fla. | Rodger - 2013-06-18 9:57 AM
Myke
Water Pump -
Rodger & Gabby
COS I'm thinking the water outlet is opposit on A vs LA W/P, except, maybe, early 273. |
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Expert
Posts: 1506
Location: Colo Spgs | --- George
Staring with The 1972 Production Year The long nosed Water Pump Unit started being used. It has the in-let on the right ( Hot Water rises & gets moved to The Radiator.
In The Radiator it falls and passes near The Cooling Fins. Any bubbles rise and The "pooled" and Cooled Fluid is then returned to the engine via The Lower In-let ).
What is different from The first series Water Pump such as what came on 1958 A-318's is a Mounting Point for The Generator Brace Arm on the top center. The later versions
do not have this. The Generator Brace Arm can be re-located to a bolt that holds the Water Pump to the Timing Chain Cover.
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Expert
Posts: 2119
Location: atlanta | Hmmm... I always thought the bottom hose with the wire coil was the suction or inlet to the radiator and that's why the wire's there to keep it from collapsing, could be wrong, happened before. |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | The bottom hose is the inlet and that is why there is sometimes a wire in it. I don't there there has ever been a car/truck/locomotive where that has not been the case. A top inlet would just suck air. |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1110
Location: Tulare Ca | You Gotta Think, It Uses Gravity to Pull It down Through The Engine. |
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Walter passed away on Jul 29, 2014. We will miss you, Walt!
Posts: 5358
Location: Heaven Above (Formerly Oklahoma City,OK) | Mopar1 - 2013-06-18 6:11 AM
Think I've seen positive reviews of their Hemi parts. Wonder if cast rings is all that's available...
Google Piston rings. They are sold by diameter and width. There are several ring manufacturers out there that sevice something other than cast rings. |
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Expert
Posts: 2119
Location: atlanta | Inlet to the pump or the motor? |
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Expert
Posts: 3031
Location: N.W. Fla. | fenix - 2013-06-22 10:13 AM
Inlet to the pump or the motor? It's the inlet, but a generic "Hose fitting" would have worked for my comment. The LAs I've seem/have are on the pass. side (here in the US)of the engine & the As I've seen, best I recall, were on the drivers side. Of course plenty of room for error... |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | fenix - 2013-06-22 8:13 AM Inlet to the pump or the motor? Inlet to the pump connects to the bottom of the radiator. |
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Expert
Posts: 2119
Location: atlanta | jimntempe - 2013-06-22 4:49 PM
fenix - 2013-06-22 8:13 AM Inlet to the pump or the motor? Inlet to the pump connects to the bottom of the radiator.
Yep, that's what I meant, guess i got a little cornfused there for a min, bottom hose to inlet, or suction side of the pump, into the motor, pump to motor internally and returns through the top hose to the radiator. |
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'58 318 Poly Rebuild Kit
