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Greg Leggatt's Forward Look Art Gallery Thread Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 6 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Lancer Mike |
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Location: The Mile High City | I received the following message and pictures from Greg - post your own "art gallery" photos here if you like!
I promise I won't make a habit of doing this but I came across 3 photos in my desk and photographed them with the iPad . They don't look too bad. I restored these two Dodges and later sold them to a private collector who then sent me these photos of the cars in private museum in Quebec (he still owns them I think).
When I saw them it just looked like the perfect entrance for a Forward Look Art Gallery. What do you think?
Anyway they are both originally equipped cars except for the continental kit. I found a kit on a car in Virginia and Neil later sent me a photo of Lawrence Welk sitting in a 57CR vert with this exact kit on it! I owned a machine shop at the time so I made up the fabricated parts for about 8or9 kits.
(1957 CR convertible 1 reduced.jpg) (1957 CR convertible 2 reduced.jpg) (1957 CR convertible 3 reduced.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 1957 CR convertible 1 reduced.jpg (212KB - 304 downloads) 1957 CR convertible 2 reduced.jpg (155KB - 317 downloads) 1957 CR convertible 3 reduced.jpg (223KB - 304 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Nice!! Here's the ad a while back for the 58: http://forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=19019 | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Ah ha, very interesting! I had no idea that James had sold (or was trying to sell) the car. I certainly sold it too cheap!! BTW the 354 did come standard with a 2 bbl carb and CDN custom royals did have US royal interiors. There are several more little differences. It certainly was a rust free car. Greg | ||
Lancer Mike |
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Location: The Mile High City | ok, that last thread does not cast me in a very good light! My apologies for the diatribe! In retrospect, I should have "toned it down" a bit! Edited by Lancer Mike 2013-09-20 11:34 PM | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Greg's coral/white Coronet was the BEST, and most accurately, restored 57-58 Dodge that I've ever seen. | ||
Chrycoman |
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Expert Posts: 1819 Location: Vancouver, BC | Canadian 1958 Dodge Custom Royal, with FOB prices and production - 4dr Sedan - $3,562.00 - 2,235 2dr Lancer hardtop - $3,620.00 - 1,262 4dr Lancer hardtop - $3,713.00 - 406 Total - 3,903 Imported models, with prices - 2dr Lancer convertible - $4,484.00 2 seat Custom Sierra Wagon - $4,506.00 3 seat Custom Sierra Wagon - $4,652.00 X - Dover White in the US was Ermine (1958 Chrysler), Pearl White (1958 DeSoto), Eggshell (1958 Dodge), Iceburg (1958 Plymouth) S - Bermuda Coral in the US was Tahitian Coral (1958 Chrysler) | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Thanks,Mike and Neil for the comments and thanks Bill for the production number of 1262. That sounds like the number I was trying to recall! It was a true show car but wherever I stored it things FELL on it! It drove beautifully but every time I did it would get hit with stones from oncoming cars. I just figured that I wasn't destined to be a collector!! James is a great guy and had many other collector cars (nobody would believe the list if I told you) . In fact the interior vinyl was original. So was the dash pad. I replaced the seat fabric and the carpet-- that's all!! When he bought the car he asked me to do him a favour. Never try to do another interior!! He did the seats for my 300C. It was like sitting in a Rolls. He made the seats in my regal from the brittle old originals with same result. I bought the seat covers for the vert from Goers. James took 'em apart and resewed them. I was sorry to read that story. I don't have a contact for him. I just hope he is OK. Greg | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Here's some photos and information on his 58 Dodge, from Gary. As bought. (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (251KB - 323 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | "Body is elevated up off my "jig frame" by 30" posts to do any repair panels, body work, metal finishing,primer and paint underneath as required.I did all my cars this way." (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (209KB - 319 downloads) image.jpg (159KB - 320 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | "Instrument panel finished complete with all rebuilt switches, new wiring harness etc." (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (230KB - 316 downloads) image.jpg (225KB - 320 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | "With the under side of the floors painted on the previous jig we lower it down on this "paint frame" for finish paint." (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (223KB - 319 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Frame assembly (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (238KB - 318 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | "I made brackets to hold the instrument panel approx in position on the frame. Battery in and everything installed I jack up rear wheels and put 10 hours or so on the engine. Check operation of everything, checking for leaks etc. Earlier, I put a brake bleeder pig at 20 psi on the junction block and completely bled all the lines and wheel cylinders. Let it sit for a couple days to be sure there are no leaks." (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (233KB - 324 downloads) image.jpg (224KB - 310 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | "Cdn. Car -- 354 poly engine. I routinely pick up the bodies with straps under the two door striker plates and cherry picker with strap under the trunk latch bracket. Carefully drop body with all body mounts loosely assembled and shim as required until ALL body mounts are making equal contact with the frame. It can take a lot of time but in the end you will have what I like to call a Happy driving car." (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (228KB - 320 downloads) image.jpg (200KB - 317 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Finished car. (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (199KB - 309 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Thank you Greg for sharing these photos with us! | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Here's a couple more photos of the car. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (254KB - 336 downloads) image.jpg (231KB - 319 downloads) image.jpg (258KB - 303 downloads) | ||
Lancer Mike |
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Location: The Mile High City | Magnificent! | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Yeah, that is the most accurately restored 57+ FWDLK Dodge, in the Universe. I've got some pics from Greg that I've been meaning to post up, too, of this car and his 2-tone green car's restoration. Edited by d500neil 2013-10-06 3:28 AM | ||
firedome |
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Expert Posts: 3153 Location: NY & VT | That is amazing! One would hate to drive a car that perfect on the road though, I can see why he sold it. That blue '57 'vert in pic 1 is equally incredible. Scotti seems to get only really top-notch cars but his prices are equally top-notch to boot... he always seems to sell them eventually though... lots of $$$ in Quebec. | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Another view of the 57 convertible. Greg, your restorations are truly perfect. And that is an understatement. (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (155KB - 330 downloads) | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Thanks for posting, Matt, and thanks for your kind comments. I've got more if anyone wants to see them! Greg | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Please email to me and I'll post 'em! | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Here's some of the 57. (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (260KB - 308 downloads) image.jpg (120KB - 306 downloads) image.jpg (192KB - 317 downloads) image.jpg (183KB - 310 downloads) image.jpg (170KB - 387 downloads) image.jpg (192KB - 279 downloads) image.jpg (202KB - 301 downloads) image.jpg (224KB - 302 downloads) image.jpg (197KB - 303 downloads) image.jpg (240KB - 291 downloads) image.jpg (241KB - 286 downloads) | ||
christine-lover |
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Expert Posts: 2996 Location: Sept. 1958 | Greg's 58 - "While I drove these cars when they were new, this is the first FWDLK that I bought. Probably late 70s or early 80s." Edited by christine-lover 2013-12-30 5:55 AM (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) (image.jpg) Attachments ---------------- image.jpg (296KB - 309 downloads) image.jpg (230KB - 304 downloads) image.jpg (250KB - 303 downloads) image.jpg (239KB - 296 downloads) | ||
60 Imp |
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Location: North Australia | Looking at the 58 above I have just realised that the 1958 Dodge is easily an equal to the 58 Plymouth for one of the hottest looking FL cars. What are the little trim pieces rear of the fins called? They really change the look of the car. beaut work on the cars Greg, what was your inspiration and what do you drive now? Steve. | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Thanks, Steve, I think they just called it a fin ornament. Someone here will know for sure. I always appreciated Chrysler engineering and I'm a big fan of torsion bar suspension so I sort of zoomed in on these Dodges! The only one I have now is the Regal Lancer. Greg | ||
GregCon |
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Expert Posts: 2524 Location: Houston | You can't argue with the results, but I don't see the point in floating the body over the frame or pre-installing the dash. I guess the body floating saves some floor space but it must make the upper portions of the body hard to work on. | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Pre-installing the dash allows me to put about 10 hours or so on the drivetrain while testing all elects etc. Everything is accessible to fix leaks, do adjustments or re. and re. anything. You are correct. I had no place to put the body. I could only use the shop on weekends! It was the only pic I had of the bare body. | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Greg, I am intrigued by your riser posts. Can you explain your "science" here .... what they are made of, how they are secured to the frame and body, and why they are the length they are ? ... advantages, disadvantages, changes you'd make ? I am not that far off from needing to separate the body from the frame and I'd like to hear your reasons for this interesting way of doing things. | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Well, Doc, it was seat of the pants stuff. I had to do a lot of floor replacements and the best " jig" I could think of was the frame itself so I needed a way to very securely and accurately hold the body " up and away" to do the work. Put a series of posts identical in length, with a washer welded at each end and run threaded rod, nuts and washers down the centres to secure the body to the frame. One for every body mount. I had a set about 8" long. Worked great for high up body work and paint. Another set about 20" long and another set 30" long for most floor work. I knew I was going to do many cars (actually 9 or 10 total) so to take time to make up these bits was worthwhile. The problem with the blue car was I didn't have an extra frame!! That was my first restoration attempt. I sacrificed a 57 suburban, left the front t-bars still tight and the rear suspension in place. Left all wheels on it and used it as my "mobile" work bench. With the suspensions in place that frame was "torqued" to be about as accurate a jig could be! I made all posts from 1 1/2" square tube. I've got lots of pics but I can't post them. I just can't do computer stuff --- much rather work in my shop!! Greg | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Doc, at the top of this thread you will see use of these posts. Sorry, the 30" posts were 1 1/2" pipe. It's important that they are all identical in length. With 3/8" threaded rod tightening the body to the frame it can pull things out of shape. That is why I wanted as accurate a frame jig as possible. Needless to say, neither the spring special or the blue car needed much in the way of floor replacement. Some of my cars sure did! Greg | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | Aren't the mating elevations different for some of the body mounts ? It seems the rear box rail and trunk pan mounts are not on plane with the cowl and floor mounts. So, you just took what .... 1/4" wall 2.5" square tube and welded washer ends to them to create the frame-to-body spacers, and then used all-thread to bind the "sandwich" together ? How do you dial-in your alignment ? .... or more pointedly, how do you know you have it right ? ... what is the point of reference ? I suspect your overhead crane is instrumental in making this approach work and it would be difficult and risky to do without one (?). Thanks for your feedback. Always looking for "better ideas". | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Yes, they are all different but ALL are equidistant from the frame. Check out your frame to body mount hardware. It will be a mixed bag but the FINAL mounting clearance between frame and body will always be identical at all body mount locations or at least MUST be. 100 or 1/8 wall tubing is lots. The point of reference is the frame itself. Can I tell you a story?! On another thread I said I street raced a 57 D500 and took every bodies money when it was new. Subsequently I had opportunity to drive other 57 and 58. While the car we raced was absolutely wonderful to drive but the others were PIGS to drive. They accelerated and braked crookedly, they squeaked and groaned and leaked. That really puzzled me. One car was great and the next just sucked! When I started to drag these cars home and dissemble them the thing that was most evident was the condition of the rubber washer body mount cushions. Some were good enough to reuse and others were crushed beyond recognition. This is bulls**t. Either the frame or the body was crooked! This isn't rocket science. A proper restoration MUST fix this. The frame and the body MUST fit together like a glove, if not , you will have another pig. IMHO. My overhead cranes and cherry pickers made life easier. Greg | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | The wording of my last post was too harsh. Sorry about that. Greg | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | I just spent 3 years with the USMC in AFG. Your choice of words is just fine. Uh, yeah .... brain fart on my part. Of course the risers would be the same ! Not sure where my head was at on that ! OK, so back to the different lengths ... The tall dudes are of obvious advantage to access from both above and below. What was your idea behind the shorter ones ? | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | One more question .... In terms of precise alignment, it seems to this feeble memory, that there is a fair amount of slop in those holes of both the frame and body to the bolts. As a matter of making everything dead-on true, what steps do you take to establish "correct" and what do you use for reference points ? Do you take a pre-restoration car to a frame shop and have the frame checked/trued before starting work ? I am about to start piecing in the lower rear clip on my DeSoto (58 Fireflite convertible). After being rear-ended, the frame was checked, but I am untrusting of the work done at the time, and judging by the work I see you doing here, suspect your level of picking nits is more my style and I am thinking of perhaps starting over or re-checking previous work before proceeding. Suggestions, science, logic, observations, wild-ass rants ??? Please share. | ||
The Chrysler Kid |
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Expert Posts: 1384 Location: Ocala, Florida | Those convertible colors look very good he sure has a lot of talent! But the continental kit kills the whole thing for me. | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | Been meaning to post up a few of Greg's early 90's restoration photos, as a part of our refinishing research. Note all of the "natural finish" components, that make up a correct restoration. Also note the un-painted generator end plates and the nose of the starter. Edited by d500neil 2013-12-31 4:27 PM (PICT4537A.JPG) (PICT4538.JPG) (PICT4540.JPG) (PICT4541.JPG) (PICT4541A.JPG) (PICT4541B.JPG) (PICT4541C.JPG) (PICT4542.JPG) (PICT4543.JPG) (PICT4544.JPG) (PICT4545.JPG) (PICT4545A.JPG) (PICT4546.JPG) (PICT4547.JPG) (PICT4548.JPG) (PICT4550.JPG) (PICT4551.JPG) Attachments ---------------- PICT4537A.JPG (105KB - 305 downloads) PICT4538.JPG (103KB - 292 downloads) PICT4540.JPG (109KB - 288 downloads) PICT4541.JPG (108KB - 302 downloads) PICT4541A.JPG (109KB - 298 downloads) PICT4541B.JPG (111KB - 285 downloads) PICT4541C.JPG (103KB - 299 downloads) PICT4542.JPG (108KB - 318 downloads) PICT4543.JPG (105KB - 294 downloads) PICT4544.JPG (102KB - 289 downloads) PICT4545.JPG (102KB - 301 downloads) PICT4545A.JPG (105KB - 297 downloads) PICT4546.JPG (104KB - 308 downloads) PICT4547.JPG (111KB - 298 downloads) PICT4548.JPG (109KB - 283 downloads) PICT4550.JPG (104KB - 299 downloads) PICT4551.JPG (101KB - 318 downloads) | ||
GregCon |
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Expert Posts: 2524 Location: Houston | If you can find a good frame shop it would be worth doing. I think/assume the FSM has dimensional data on what is considered 'square'. One thing for sure, I would not start any frame pulling with the body mounted. Because then the body would be (possibly) getting tweaked as well. On my 66 Fury I had a good frame guy do a front end alignment and during the process he showed me how the RH lower ball joint mounting hole was about 3/8" further back than the driver's side. He used a fancy 15 foot long caliper-thing that he told me cost $1500. I am confident that is just factory slop but it also was enough to make it not possible for me to get more than about 1 degree + caster on that side. The point being....a guy who knows how to measure a frame can tell you lots of interesting things. The holes in the frame are about 1" diameter but the rubber bushing has a step that takes up the space. The kicker is you can get the frame into perfect hole-to-hole alignment but unless you also have a body that happened to be perfect you will still be relying on the forgiveness of the fit-up to make it all work. Greg's point about getting the body on the frame is valid but in the case of my '58...the old bushings were all there but squished out. When I went back with all new bushings, the car went together well in that each bushing seemed to have similarly 'squeeze' on it. But I can't tell any particular difference in the way the car rides or handles. It's a little 'nicer' due to the new rubber but I can't tell anything beyond that. I also scracth my head over the front two mounts which are visible from the engine compartment...they are metal-to-metal and I haven't figured out what is the point of that. | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | I used the short posts mainly for painting the cars. I don't remember using the 20" (or so) ones any more than once or twice. That wagon where I got the frame (my mobile workbench) was undamaged just rusty. So I knew I was pretty safe using it. When I drop the finished body on it's own frame, I spend a lot of time shimming to try to have even contact at all mounts. When all(most) posts are being placed I just try to keep the threaded rod ends near the centre of the holes in both frame and body. As you said, there is quite a bit of lateral and fore & aft play in the holes. I have not had any problems with that. When the posts are tightened it is surprising how stable it all is. Of course the biggest application for the posts is to transplant large floor pieces into a body. These were salvaged pieces I was using. Any floor pieces that included body mount holes --- just set em in place on the posts and your vertical dimensions are taken care of. Doc, re your frame, let me think about it for a bit. I think Neil has more of these photos than I do!! Greg | ||
d500neil |
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Exner Expert 19,174 posts. Neil passed away 18 Sep 2015. You will be missed, Neil! Posts: 19146 Location: bishop, ca | LOL...I kept a dossier on our work/research... Gots lots more too...shall we talk about torsion bar, and other, paint daubs? | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Paint daubs ----- not sure. I doubt many people are interested. Got a black tie affair tonight , better go see if my tux has shrunk!! | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3966 Location: DFW, TX | Brent, all the frame dimensions (including diagonal) are in the 1958 DeSoto service manual. I happen to have one right here. I'll take some pictures if you don't have it. I love reading this thread. Although I'm not restoring it to original, I'm knee-deep in my Chrysler right now so this is all very interesting to me. | ||
toddst |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 726 Location: Some Island called Prince Edward | Greg, I had no idea there was such a talented Forward Look restorer in Ontario. Where in Ontario are you? Did you ever show your cars at Moparfest? Incredible work! Are you still restoring FL cars? | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Doc, I guess the most important thing I know about collision damage is to realize how little I know!! To be good at would take years or experience and apprenticeship. I avoided collision cars for that reason so never had to use a frame shop. In the case of the blue car rear left quarter and some junkyard damage to my Regal here is what I was told and shown by a body man on staff at the time. Clean all surfaces to determine the point of any impact and determine then how the parts slid to the stopping point. This damage must be removed (dolly, hammer, pulling whatever) in REVERSE order of how it occurred. Do this fot all damage sites. The principle behind it is that any dent, regardless of how big,distresses all neighbouring steel. Working out the damage this way relieves this stress. Go through this procedure even if you are going to cut out these damaged parts and discard them. Your case is much different. This might give a little different way to look at things and might help. I wonder if you could rent or borrow a fancy laser level to check vertical heights at the various frame body mount locations when you get the body elevated a bit. Greg | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Hi Todd, Thanks for the post. I live near Kingston. I took my Regal to Moparfest in 2002 but haven't been back. Greg | ||
Doctor DeSoto |
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Location: Parts Unknown | My car has a colored past. Corporate in-house use car (09841 code), it turned up in Syracuse, NY as a just-purchased car with a lot of body repair already done in 1960. The passenger quarter was replaced with a used, rusty 1957 convertible quarter and the lower half of both quarters cut off and replaced for rust repair. A considerable dent in the lower passenger door suggests an impact at the door, moving rearward (hence the quarter swap). The could have involved a 2nd car in a T-bone/sideswipe sort of wreck, or just the DeSoto hitting a stationary object while moving forward. The rocker was unaffected, so I presume it was a high hit, or something very solid with just enough impact to mash the side in short of crunching the rocker ? The wreck I was involved in was a direct hit from the rear that hit above the frame (high riding 70's Chevy Blazer). The damage to the car was strange. A rusty floor and trunk pan simply tore, allowing the entire rear clip to slide forward on the frame with no real damage to the quarters beyond a crunched decklid and toasting the tail light towers. The cowl was cut away from the floor, the front body mounts repaired and the car rebuilt from the cowl back, using excellent sheetmetal I had saved for the job when I had my wrecking yard. Because the wreck occurred while the car was in service, there was no opportunity to brace the body to a rigid position, required huge amounts of time, raising and lowering the top to get the alignments dialed in as each piece was brought back into place. All that remains to do is the trunk and passenger side lower quarter. However, I am not satisfied with the previous work done and may tear back into some of that to fine tune it a bit ? Hence the questions about your work strategy and logic. My shop is still with a gravel floor and unheated and rather primitive for working conditions. Until I land steady employment, I am holding off on pushing the shop construction to keep my savings in reserve, but after 3 years in AFG, I am eager to push the car forward in any way I can, even it is means working in the dirt. At least I have a roof over my head and most of the tools to do the job (although now you have me thinking about an overhead crane !) I agree that understanding all you DON'T KNOW is very important. Much like my old employer's advice that bodywork is largely about knowing when to STOP. I have all the fancy laser stuff, but would need to get a solid floor under the car to use them with any reliable point of reference. One more thing that needs to get done ..... | ||
GregCon |
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Expert Posts: 2524 Location: Houston | The frame guy I know here runs his own general repair shop...but he spent 13 years as the main frame guy at the Ford dealer here in Houston. He's pulled more frames around in a week than a scumbag like me will ever do in his home shop. Luckily me car has not rust or accident issues but if it did the first thing I would do is to get him to ensure the frame was right. | ||
LD3 Greg |
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Expert Posts: 1906 Location: Ontario, Canada | Neil, I've had several PM requests for the paint daubs. Please post em. Thanks Greg | ||
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