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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> General Technical Discussion and Troubleshooting | Message format |
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | Hi everyone, what is he trick to removing the end of the shift cable from the lever inside the trans ? In the manual it says to remove the neutral switch (did that) and then to pry up on the end of the cable with a screwdriver or "suitable tool" through the hole for the switch. (tried that). I'm guessing there's a trick to it that the manual isn't telling. I'm doing this on my back from under the car, so maybe I don't have the right angle. If I can't get it out I'll have to cut it, then hope I can find a replacement. (good luck). Please help !! Thanks. | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Dont cut it Go read the manual again You have to relieve a clip that locks the cable in You can drop the pan and get a better look | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | if the cable is good , don't cut it . it's not easy , but there is a hair clip keeper in there that holds the cable to whats called the cable adapter . don't cut the cable ! if all else fails , drop the pan to get at the cable and it's fastener . ya gotta watch when you unbolt the cable adapter there's a couple of paper thin washers under the 3/8 (if i remember) nut . if it aint 3/8 , its 5/16 . once its unbolted you can better see the hair pin keeper that has to be removed so the cable can separate from the cable adapter . ------------------------------------------- later below is the cable adapter that attaches to the end of the cable . nut is 3/8 what has to be done to remove the cable from the adapter is , after removing the neutral switch , place a screw driver in the switch hole against spring the back side of the hair clip allowing the cable to free up . it's kind of poking around not knowing where the spring is , since you can't see it . removing the pan is a ton easier but then to , you have to replace the pan gasket . see the slot the spring rests in , the spring has to come out of that slot . then the cable will be free Edited by 60 dart 2014-08-25 8:15 PM (001 (500x375).jpg) Attachments ---------------- 001 (500x375).jpg (85KB - 235 downloads) | ||
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | Thanks ttotired and dart 60. Took the pan down and saw everything. I knew there was a step they left out of the manual. On the subject of cables, my park brake cable has rusted, and is broken at the foot pedal assy. so it's no good. I'm going with a newer rear end that has E-brake capability at the drums. What cable do you suggest I use to retrofit from the foot pedal assy to the rear drums ? Thanks. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | after a lot of searching and trying to determine what cables would work with the E-brake foot pedal , i gave up and have decide to go with center hump hand brake . -------------------------------------------later | ||
ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | No idea on that one really, it will be a custom job, but I would start with as much of the setup from the donor cars e brake as possible, especially if it had the T handle (pull) type and work from that Maybe an original cable to a pivot arm then to the rear brakes? Another option is to go with the original setup and not use the rear ends ones? Although, the later e brake may work self adjusters for the rear brakes, in which case, it would be better to set that one up Hows that for having a bet each way | ||
finsruskw |
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Expert Posts: 2289 Location: Eastern Iowa | I have no idea which car you are working on, but much easier, on a 60 trans that is, to back off the adjusting wheel all the way, and pull the cable out of the trans as far as it will go, then insert the screw driver from the front through the shifter hole to release the spring. Just did this on my F and took about 2 seconds after the cable was pulled forward. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3777 Location: NorCal | "Newer" rear ends typically have two parking brake configurations, some have equal length cables that terminate in a "Y" at the front cable (from the brake pedal) and some have different length cables where the longer right cable crosses over the rear end and both cable terminate at a bracket on the frame. The latter is the easiest to adapt to the FL car, just an extension cable and balance bar to connect the front cable to the rears. | ||
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | wow !! Lots of options. Thanks to everyone for the input. Just for information sake, does anyone repro. the original style e-brake cable that's used with the drum park setup ? If so, I would have yet another option | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3777 Location: NorCal | You might hunt around your area for a shop that can make brake cables, you might find one that can make a new core for your existing cable housing. If you're going to a later rear end you could have them make the core lots longer to reach the cables on the rear end. I am lucky to have one such shop in my neighborhood. http://lehrauto.com/pages/rebuilding-and-cables | ||
Forgotten 61 |
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Veteran Posts: 157 Location: Central New York | that's a good idea. Hey, sometimes being lucky is better than being good. | ||
1961plymouthfury |
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Expert Posts: 2633 Location: Minor Hill, TN | Andy Bernbaum carries parts for these fowardlook mopars and so does Rock Auto you also might want to look in ebay also | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | i might have a reproduction layin around --------------------------------------------------------later | ||
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