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Antifreeze on passernger floor Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Heating, Cooling and Air Conditioning | Message format |
Cmangeot |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 531 Location: Park Hills, KY | So when it rains, it pours. In addition to the annoying drivetrain issue I have been having, yesterday, I drove the car about 4 miles only to watch antifreeze begin to drip onto the passenger mat. It appears to be running down the heater box from somewhere on the top which I cannot see from under the dash. I assume this is likely the control valve, or possibly the core? Thanks, | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Most likely the Control valve - the cores holds on very good.... | ||
Darryl T |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 428 Location: McCleary WA | I just got my heater valve rebuilt by www.heatercontrolvalve.com - it came back looking like brand new. It was $95 plus shipping. | ||
soiouz |
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Expert Posts: 3480 Location: Montreal, Canada | Darryl T - 2014-10-12 2:29 PM I just got my heater valve rebuilt by www.heatercontrolvalve.com - it came back looking like brand new. It was $95 plus shipping. That's a good tip. You could even do it yourself. You can buy the little seal that has to be changed at NAPA for 10$, and it takes an afternoon and a couple of beers. I've had no issues with them afterwards. The one in my ex-1959 Dodge has been working perfectly for the last 3 years. | ||
Cmangeot |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 531 Location: Park Hills, KY | So how do I access the valve??? I have plenty of beers.??? | ||
soiouz |
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Expert Posts: 3480 Location: Montreal, Canada | Cmangeot - 2014-10-13 6:02 PM So how do I access the valve??? I have plenty of beers.??? You have access to it easily once the cardboard globe box is removed. Of course, you gotta disconnect the hoses first in the engine compartment, and be careful not to damage the spiral capillar that is inserted into the fiberglass heater duct, under the dashboard. This "how to" guide was very useful to me when i rebuilt the first one i did. http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?... Edited by soiouz 2014-10-13 9:08 PM | ||
jimntempe |
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Expert Posts: 2312 Location: Arizona | Someone said the replacement parts were available at NAPA, anyone know what to ask for? | ||
soiouz |
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Expert Posts: 3480 Location: Montreal, Canada | jimntempe - 2014-10-13 9:25 PM Someone said the replacement parts were available at NAPA, anyone know what to ask for? Heater control valve seal, part number at NAPA: BK 6601000 Made by Balkamp, cost is about 10$ | ||
jimntempe |
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Expert Posts: 2312 Location: Arizona | thanks | ||
Cmangeot |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 531 Location: Park Hills, KY | Ok....glovebox is out. I see no control valve....nor do I see any evidence of where in the heck the antifreeze is coming from. I just get drips accumulating on the underside of the heater box. I reviewed the parts and service diagram and I honestly do not know how the control valve could be the culprit. Any ideas? | ||
sconut1 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 782 Location: Edmonton, Alberta | Hi Chris: It's kind of like this....there's only two possible things that can leak engine coolant inside the car (I'm proceeding on the assumption that it's green coolant). The heater core, or the heater control valve. You're probably familiar with the system but if you're not, it hooks up like this: Out of the water pump, and into the heater control valve (which can leak in the car). Out of the valve and into the heater core (which can leak in the car). Out of the heater core and then back into the engine. I'd be lying if I said I was familiar with the '60 Chrysler layout of the exact location of the heater control valve, but based on your prior posts you say the heater control valve is in close proximity to the glove box. If your heater control valve is bad, it's very possible that it's squirting coolant on the glove box. If this is the case, you wouldn't necessarily see coolant dripping in proximity to the valve itself. My suggestion to you is that you remove it, and then have a good close look at the valve. I'll bet you'll see some coolant on the valve and maybe some goopy crusty white stuff on the valve. You don't have to drain your cooling system to remove the heater control valve. If you place a bucket under the general area that you're working on and have two duck billed vise grips available, just undo the clamps, let the first hose drain in the bucket and then use a pair of duck billed vise grips to clamp the first hose, you'll be ok. Ditto with the second hose. From here you can disconnect the heater control "line", similar to a throttle cable on a lawn mower. Be careful with the little clip the holds the heater control cable as I found they break easy. Ask me how I know....LOL. You'll see a metal cap on your heater box. Pull this cap and gingerly remove what I believe is referred to the copper estuation tube. Be real careful with this... if it gets damaged or excessively bent, you'll destroy it. Pull the two screws from the heater control valve, then gingerly remove the heater control valve from the car. I'll be for sure you'll see signs of leakage. Now.... folks here have posted some instructions as to how to repair the valve. I've read these before (when mine went). I found a similar set of instructions on a Chevrolet truck site (stove bolts forever or something like that). The fellow who wrote the article essentially said that he'd never try doing this again, despite his success. I'd considered doing mine myself, but there are three little metal tangs that you need to bend. Break one, and you're looking for a new heater control valve. I sent mine to www.heatercontrolvalves.com as mentioned earlier. For $90.00, this guy (though a little eccentric), will re-build your valve and you'll have one good as new. He really does nice work. If you choose to remove the valve to inspect it, I'd send it to him anyway. These things leak ALL the time, and if it's not you're problem today, it will be tomorrow. Believe me...LOL! Once you get it back from repair, throw it back in the car and see how you make out. It probably is your issue, especially considering that if it is your heater core, you'd probably find coolant leaking on the floor, instead of your glove box. If it's turns out that it isn't, we can attack the heater core later but I'll submit that no matter what, it's money well spent. Through the process of elimination, you'll have a like-new valve, and in the event that you're still leaking coolant, you'll know that your root cause is the heater core. Gord Edited by sconut1 2014-10-21 10:06 PM | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | I'm sending some pictures from my leak of the heater valve. I replaced it with an Amazon (Volvo) heater valve. Except some details on the mounting plate the heater valve seems to be the same. First picture shows when the car was overnight at the parking place. The dark spots on the floor is cooling fluid. Few weeks later the leak became more severe. There was a lot of cooling fluid at the floor of the barn. Plus the whole carpet and underneath was full of cooling fluid as well. I cleaned all the mats and the carpet in the bath tube. Last picture shows the heater valve from the motor compartement.
Good luck!
Dieter (DSC01291.JPG) (DSC01369.JPG) (DSC01372.JPG) (DSC01379.JPG) Attachments ---------------- DSC01291.JPG (111KB - 212 downloads) DSC01369.JPG (102KB - 191 downloads) DSC01372.JPG (112KB - 197 downloads) DSC01379.JPG (75KB - 201 downloads) | ||
Cmangeot |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 531 Location: Park Hills, KY | Update...I turned the temperature control all the way left to cool.....no more leak. I assume that this confirms the control valve as the culprit? The box cannot leak of I keep the heater off, correct? | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Well, it could still leak, but it's less plausible. If the valve doesn't Close properly then it wuld still leak. You should be able to see the valve with your glove box out and also with the help of Dieters picturesabove. | ||
di_ch_NY56 |
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Expert Posts: 1530 Location: ZH, Switzerland | In a 1956 Chrysler and all other cars built on the same frame the heater valve is next to the heater duct inside the cabin. It's below of the glove box so it's not mandatory to remove it. In the case of a 1956 full size Mopar the heater valve is just top of the upper end of the carpet on the floor. Myself I cannot speek for younger cars (e.g. 1957 to 1962) because I don't have one. In my case the heater valve was leaking even at full closed position.
Happy Motoring!
Dieter | ||
Chrome58 |
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Expert Posts: 1316 Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels | soiouz - 2014-10-14 3:04 AM This "how to" guide was very useful to me when i rebuilt the first one i did. http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/article/view.article.php?... Thanks a lot for that "how to" guide ! I have the NAPA replacement gasket but I never was able to figure how to install them. Edited by Chrome58 2014-10-29 8:31 AM | ||
Cmangeot |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 531 Location: Park Hills, KY | So.....the antifreeze issue has stopped..."I have run and driven the car for hours on end...I went to the trouble of removing the glovebox door and compartment. No leaking....anywhere, in any heater control position. Weird...... No explanation for this one.. | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Nothing repairs by itself Chris, if you have 50/50 % of antifreeze in your cooling system, then many things will start to leak as the cooling fluid has great capillary effect. That means that you must re-tighten all of the hose clamps (if they are of the screw type) and leakage can appear for instance in the heater valve. The leakage is an indicator of that there is an issue, best thing is to pull the heater valve and renovate/exchange it. | ||
Cmangeot |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 531 Location: Park Hills, KY | Hey Wiz, is this the right one for my 60? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1960-61-62-63-64-All-Chrysler-Mopar-2084461... Edited by Cmangeot 2014-12-21 9:41 PM | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Sure looks like a direct fit to me..... | ||
61forfun |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 466 Location: Vancouver, Washington | That is the correct valve, it appears to be new old stock. I have had the NOS units come with bad rubber in them. The particular one on this ebay auction is a Everhot which is not a rebuildable unit. You want the Ranco version. New or used it is rebuildable with Napa kit. | ||
soiouz |
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Expert Posts: 3480 Location: Montreal, Canada | 61forfun - 2014-12-22 10:51 AM That is the correct valve, it appears to be new old stock. I have had the NOS units come with bad rubber in them. The particular one on this ebay auction is a Everhot which is not a rebuildable unit. You want the Ranco version. New or used it is rebuildable with Napa kit. Exactly what I thought when I saw it. The auction listing says it's been 25 years on a shelf, so even if it is NOS, there's no guarantee at all that it will work better than the one you have now, as 25 years without use is more than enough for the rubber to dry out. Rebuilding an old Ranco one with the 10$ NAPA gasket is better, IMO. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2196 Location: Muskego, WI | Dieter, Do you know the part number for the Volvo heater control valve? | ||
Cmangeot |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 531 Location: Park Hills, KY | So I found the part number on my old corroded, scaled-over and dripping heater control valve. 1972718. An Internet search shows it to be a Ranco, but for a late 60's mopar. Does this matter? Should I just rebuild this one and move on? Next question, how do I get this thing out? I've never done one before?!?! | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Here's some good info http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Ranco/rancotb/rancotb.html | ||
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