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 Neutral switch adjustment 56 Power Flite?Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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kari613 |
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Veteran Posts: 112  Location: Lake Havasu , Arizona | |||
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| 57plymouth |
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Expert Posts: 3577     Location: Blythewood, SC | |||
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| kari613 |
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Veteran Posts: 112 Location: Lake Havasu , Arizona | |||
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| 57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3776 Location: NorCal | |||
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| kari613 |
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Veteran Posts: 112 Location: Lake Havasu , Arizona | |||
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| ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443  Location: Perth Australia | |||
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| kari613 |
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Veteran Posts: 112 Location: Lake Havasu , Arizona | |||
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| ttotired |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8443 Location: Perth Australia | Ok Kick down  What you should be able to do if the cable is still attached inside the trans is put the selector on the dash in reverse (that should extend the trans end of the cable out the most, undo your adjuster, so you can slide the whole cable in and out As your sliding the cable in and out, you should be able to feel the detents for each gear (bumps), if you cant (or the cable just pulls out), its not connected into its catcher thing If thats the case, pull the neutral switch out again and start again If all is good, Assuming you have a 2 wire neutral switch from what you said above, remove both wires from the switch, run 1 wire from the battery + (should put a fuse in it as well, but if your carefull it wont matter) and connect it to one of the neutral switch pins, then find a good earth on the trans to plug your test light on and connect the other end to the other pin of the switch. So, with this all hooked up, you should be able to slowly push and pull on the trans cable (feeling the detents) and the neural switch should turn on your test light when it goes through the neutral position, if this happens, good, you can put you cable retainer thing on and adjust the cable very slowly until you work out where the middle of the light on time is and lock the cable in that spot and all should be happy with the world If you cant get the light to come on at all, its time to test the switch, this is easy, its a simple on/off switch Remove the switch from the trans and re connect your test light setup from before, now depending on the switch confuration (Cant remember now) it will either bring the light on straight away when you connect the wires to it, or you will have to pust the plunger (ball) in as far as you can to bring the light on. If it does not come on at all. switch is no good, if it stays on all the time (wether your pushing the plunger in or not), the swich is no good The kick down lever does not influance any of this Hope this helps Just thought I had better add this just in case someone reads this and runs themselves over ALL OF THIS TESTING IS DONE WITH THE ENGINE OFF.......... THE CAR SHOULD BE JACKED UP WITH AT LEAST THE REAR WHEELS OFF THE GROUND AND SUPPORTED ON JACK STANDS OR ON A HOIST WITH THE REAR WHEELS (AT LEAST) ABLE TO SPIN FREELY THIS SHOULD ALSO BE DONE ON LEVEL GROUND WITH FRONT WHEELS CHOCKED TO PREVENT THE VEHICLE FROM ROLLING AWAY IF WHOEVER READS THIS AND IS NOT SURE OF PROPPER JACKING AND CAR SUPPORT METHODS ARE, THEN I URGE THEM TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE TO DO THIS JOB OR BETTER YET,TAKE IT TO A MECHANICAL WORKSHOP I TAKE NO RESPONCIBILITY FOR ANY OF THE ABOVE ADVICE AS FAILURE TO UNDERSTAND THE CONCEQUENCES OF DOING THIS JOB WRONG COULD RESULT IN DEATH Cheers Edited by ttotired 2014-10-30 6:37 PM | ||
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| kari613 |
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Veteran Posts: 112 Location: Lake Havasu , Arizona | |||
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