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another 1960 Chrysler appeared
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wizard
Posted 2019-12-25 11:46 AM (#592008 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Dieter, just checked on my car, there are mounted som generic square body shims, seems like 1"x1";

Drivers side - thickness roundabout 1mm

Passenger side - thickness roundabout 2mm

The washers are practically normal round big body washers.

So you don't have to search for anything special, just fabricate what you need when it's time to mount the radiator yoke.

The big round body washers should be avalable in some local hard ware shop in various sizes.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-26 4:10 AM (#592020 - in reply to #592008)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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wizard - 2019-12-24 5:46 PM Dieter, just checked on my car, there are mounted some generic square body shims, seems like 1"x1"; Drivers side - thickness roundabout 1mm Passenger side - thickness roundabout 2mm The washers are practically normal round big body washers. So you don't have to search for anything special, just fabricate what you need when it's time to mount the radiator yoke. The big round body washers should be avalable in some local hard ware shop in various sizes.

Hi Sven

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you, Ingegerd and the dogs

Thank you very much for the time you spent for me.

When I'm thinking about that issue, I came to the conclusion that the front end should be stable in its own. I think to fill the gaps with shims when the front end is mounted.

Emil showed me that detail (yoke to subframe) on his 61 NY. On the 61 NY there is a rubber washer between the radiator yoke and the subframe. At the former white 300F convertible at Jans he used round steel washers with zinc coating (at least under the hex nut head, the only thing visible in the pictures of the restoration of that car).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: for the hood I found an original looking hood pad at epain (at least the shape). The painter is claiming with no support from the inner structure of the hood, the hood shell is very flexible and not stable enough to work on it(building up the color layers). But for that (hood shell stability) as well I purchased some rummer mats (3, 4, 5 mm thinkness) ways earlier.
(:-) no wonder ChryCo changed the inner structure for the '61 model year.

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wizard
Posted 2019-12-26 4:45 AM (#592021 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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And to you Dieter!

Your note about the hood puzzles me somewhat Dieter - there are one cross beam and 4 corner beams on the under side of the hood. Normally, the hood is not unstable.

That makes me think, has the hood been sand blasted? If so, it's very easy to get the sheet metal too hot which gives a "wiggly-woggly effect".

The hood of the '59 New Yorker I owned back in the seventies had the body sand blasted by a guy who couldn't find his own ass with two hands and a flashlight.

The result was that the hood could easily contain 5 liters of water - totally sunk down in the middle. I crimped up the hood back to shape with a MIG-welder with a soldering tip mounted and sponges of cold water.

As for the mats you purchased Dieter, make sure that they are intended to be mounted vertical and hanging.

There are two types of bitumen mats here; one for floor boards (will fall of the inner side of a door skin) and one for vertical use - much better glue.


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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-26 7:52 AM (#592022 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Hi Sven

Yes the hood has been sandblasted as well.... The painter has never ever seen a not sandblasted hood with no isolation mat nor the cardpaper slices under the traverse beam from one side to the other. Do you think, the farm smith guys destroyed the hood of my Letter?

About the pads, the seller advertised glue is not within the parcel. I have to look for it separately.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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wizard
Posted 2019-12-26 12:19 PM (#592032 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Just checked my hood Dieter;

The two front corner beams does not have any air gap, theyr're in contact with the hood, no asphalt board

The middle beam has roundabout 15mm gap in the middle and roundabout 5mm gap at the ends - thin asphalt board, but not in Contact with the hood.

The rear corner beams has roundabout 15mm air gap, no asphalt board

The beam closest th the cowl has 10mm gap in the middle, 5mm gap at the ends, no asphalt board.

It's very likely that the hood "skin" has lost it's stability due to the sand blasting. It's VERY easy to do some damage with the wrong media and/or too long blasting at the same point.

Also, it's impossible for me to imagine how stabile your hood is Dieter, I can only tell you that my hood is very stabile and does not "give" for pressing with a sponge or cloth in any point.

Your hood is not destroyed, but it's a task to crimp it back again. My method worked for me back in the seventies.

No welding wire in the welder
A thick soldering tip (10-15mm diameter) mounted to the welding pistol with one or two hose clamps
Test with low Amps first -10-20 Amps and "draw" circles in the weak areas
Cool down immedeately with a wet sponge

Naturally, the soldering tip will do some small "ditches", but that's easy to fix later.

I'd recommend to test on a sheet metal with no value first for training.

I bet that the shop body guy has his method for to fix it
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-26 1:33 PM (#592034 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thank you very much for your instruction. I printed it out, like the first one. I'll take both print outs with me to the paint&body shop. The painter is performing all that work, his brother (the body guy) I didn't meet since about two weeks.

From my memories the weak, wobbly area is where the flat surface is, closer to the cowl on the passenger side (with the convex bump in the middle).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-12-26 1:41 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-27 8:15 AM (#592078 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This morning I visited the shop again.

What I found out is the tension is only weak and wobbly at the sunken down area near the passenger side cowl end. There could be seen three or four ropes (as a pattern) of extremly heavy sand blasting (cavitary like holes out of the surface). I showed the instruction to the painter. He knows that procedure (apparently used on modern cars as well to bring back the surface tension on repaired doors, hoods, hatch lids) as well and has a machine for that. He thinks, no problem, just do it.

The video shows how it reacts. All other location the hood is as it should be. hood in motion

The doors are removed now and ready to ship it to the sand blasting company early next year. The doors are looking really good!

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-12-27 8:16 AM




(IMG_6775_hood with weak area near the passenger side end.JPG)



(IMG_6778_passenger side door.JPG)



(IMG_6779_drivers side door.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_6775_hood with weak area near the passenger side end.JPG (406KB - 10 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6778_passenger side door.JPG (460KB - 11 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6779_drivers side door.JPG (331KB - 10 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2019-12-27 4:06 PM (#592095 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yes Dieter the hood is damaged from too heavy sand blasting and lost the shape due to too much material.
The hood must be shrinked back to normal state again.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-03 3:08 AM (#592412 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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A solution for the engine actually is in sight, even though it's not very urgent to get the engine.

I don't know of how many of you, guys, are reminding that the cylinder head gasket blew between the cylinder #1 and the water channel next to it to the cylinder #3. How deep the damage on the block and cylinder head is, I have no clue. But for sure, there is a damage.

On all pictures where the damage is visible, there is a rod circle.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_2093 on top head gasket passenger side bottom head gasket drivers side.JPG)



(IMG_2090 engine cylinder head passenger side.JPG)



(IMG_2091 engine cylinder head drivers side.JPG)



(IMG_2089 engine still installed passenger side cylinder bank.JPG)



(IMG_2092 engine still installed drivers side cylinder bank.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_2093 on top head gasket passenger side bottom head gasket drivers side.JPG (451KB - 6 downloads)
Attachments IMG_2090 engine cylinder head passenger side.JPG (271KB - 7 downloads)
Attachments IMG_2091 engine cylinder head drivers side.JPG (361KB - 7 downloads)
Attachments IMG_2089 engine still installed passenger side cylinder bank.JPG (375KB - 7 downloads)
Attachments IMG_2092 engine still installed drivers side cylinder bank.JPG (359KB - 7 downloads)
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1960fury
Posted 2020-01-03 6:49 AM (#592415 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This gotta be the 1rst natural aspirated Mopar Big Block ever that blew a head gasket. Very weird.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-03 7:39 AM (#592417 - in reply to #592415)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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1960fury - 2020-01-02 12:49 PM This gotta be the 1rst natural aspirated Mopar Big Block ever that blew a head gasket. Very weird.

Happy New Year Sid

Most probably you're right. Think about the life of my engine in my Letter prior to my ownership. It's a factory replaced engine, according the metal tag attached at the front of the drivers side cylinder bank. When I removed the intake runners there was just the gasket of the valley pan cover between. No RTV nothing else, neither a supplement intake gasket.

With this scenario I really could imagine that the cylinder #1 got wrong air to the mixture. It's the only piston with a meltet top. All seven other piston were looking like new, from the top. Even at the cylinder walls honing marks were visible.

I'm ways more than sure, that the owner prior to the seller to me (the guy noted in the title of my Letter) blew the engine heavily. The piston of the first cylinder had to be cutted into three pieces (!) to remove it. I could really imagine, that after the very last switch off of the engine after really heating the car the piston sized (melted to the cylinder wall). Furthermore, the very first pictures I put into my thread are showing a really heavy damage from water (rain, blizzard, thunderstorms). This guy lost interest in the Letter and was to lazy to close the hood. From the seller I know, that the Letter rested for seven years under a blue, woven plane (as the same plane - just green instead of blue - does, locally purchased) disintegrated. You don't believe where all this fibres were....

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2020-01-03 7:44 AM
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1960fury
Posted 2020-01-03 8:34 AM (#592418 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yes. Happy new year to you too and best of luck with your project.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-07 8:40 AM (#592580 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks Sid

Here are two elder pictures of the crankshaft still installed in the engine and the connection rod bearing shells visible. At the top left position is the piston - conncetion rod assembly of cylinder #8. At the top right position the one out of cylinder #2 (order like installed)

I think the crankshaft doesn't look that bad...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_3604_crankshaft still in the engine block.JPG)



(IMG_3605_all pistons I could remove.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3604_crankshaft still in the engine block.JPG (366KB - 6 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3605_all pistons I could remove.JPG (406KB - 6 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-09 8:24 AM (#592673 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This is the original thermostat housing, cleaned outside. It shows many rusting through spots.

At the sheet I noted the parts number of the cylinder head and engine block. Both parts numbers I found at internet. Following is the year range or the engine size (cylinder heads).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: at the hood there are three sectors with no primer anymore. The owner of the body&painting shop will use his plotter to dig out the weak sectors to bring the tension back into the sheet metal.





(IMG_6818_original thermostat housing front.JPG)



(IMG_6819_original thermostat housing inside.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_6818_original thermostat housing front.JPG (272KB - 6 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6819_original thermostat housing inside.JPG (268KB - 5 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-13 9:20 AM (#592854 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This morning I visited the engine rebuilder in Switzerland again. The crankshaft is back home at him and looking good (as a passing mention from him about the crankshaft). I persisted to use the stock factory cylinder heads they came with my engine. This afternoon I sent a mail as a confirmation about our talk to the engine restorer where I underlined, that I want my crankshaft in the engine (and not the rotating assembly from Zurich out of a 413 eninge with a broken engine block (for about 2500.- local currency) - the engine rebuilder loud thought about that option as well, but elaborated, .060 pistons are speeking against - it's another engine rebuilder and a friend of my engine rebuilder).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2020-01-13 9:24 AM
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60 Imp
Posted 2020-01-13 4:45 PM (#592874 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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Dieter, when I built my 60 Imperial engine, I had an issue with the rear side of the new cam sprocket hitting a bump in the casting of the engine block. May be worth letting your engine builder know to check. Pretty easy fix, I just machined the back of the sprocket for clearance. Steve.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-14 1:01 PM (#592928 - in reply to #592874)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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60 Imp - 2020-01-12 10:45 PM Dieter, when I built my 60 Imperial engine, I had an issue with the rear side of the new cam sprocket hitting a bump in the casting of the engine block. May be worth letting your engine builder know to check. Pretty easy fix, I just machined the back of the sprocket for clearance. Steve.

Thanks Steve for your hint.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-15 1:38 PM (#592980 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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The passenger side of the hood got the tension back, very little correction of the hight the painter will do. The painter worked helically from the outside tho the center, with additional spots where necessary. The drivers side has a weak area as well. That will be the next.

The older apprentice used a plastic wire brush to clean the primer off the hood. The grinding marks appeared. It's impossible to date these marks. The cold be there for a very long time, but there were absolutely no sand blasting marks appearing at the cleaned areas.

But he has very little time to work on right now. I assisted him while disassembling a passenger side rear door of a 2019 BMW 5 series (last week I assisted with partial disassemblin and finally removing the drivers side door of a Merc Sprinter (4x4, Fedex). He said good bye to his brother - he had to left the company. So the painer is doing painting and body work with two apprentices.

I removed all the upright mounted stems ontop of the side of the cowl (two stems on each side to mount the outer front fender near the windshield). These stems are brushed and looking almost like new.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2020-01-15 1:42 PM




(IMG_6827_hood weak area almost in shape.JPG)



(IMG_6828_somebody worked with an angle grinder.JPG)



(IMG_6829_earth connection of the plotter.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_6827_hood weak area almost in shape.JPG (263KB - 4 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6828_somebody worked with an angle grinder.JPG (470KB - 4 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6829_earth connection of the plotter.JPG (253KB - 4 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-01-15 2:29 PM (#592983 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Neat, how does that shrinker work? I assume it causes the entire flat to get hot, but what is the purpose of the center screw?
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Beltran
Posted 2020-01-15 8:22 PM (#593008 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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WHOA.. hold the phone.. what is going on here.. what is that electrical wire connected to that thingy and what is it for?
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-16 1:41 PM (#593041 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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As far as I concern, the ring is welded to the hood surface to get with the flat piece of soft iron a very good connection to the ground. The plotter machine works like welder, but no welding wire, but a big half ball at the lower end, a three dimensional frame and a thread with conter thread in the top plate to screw the ball (with threaded stem) back and forth. It sticks to the surface and then turn the spindle to lift it up. Switch off the current, break off the ball. At the picture you see the welding marks, easy to remove.

Wizard did this with a welding pistol, but no wire in and pulling the pistol.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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mikes2nd
Posted 2020-01-16 8:10 PM (#593063 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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shrinking disc is a nice choice also...
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-18 10:12 AM (#593135 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Posts: 1297
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Location: ZH, Switzerland

Thanks

The painter said, the current is much higher than anticipated. The spots will go with sand blasting. Of course he could use a torch and cool with water (sponge). But the second method (torch) needs at least half of a working day to fix the area in the hood. To fix the weak area (actually finished) at the passenger side he worked for about an hour.

The second area ahead of the drivers seat (smaller than the area of the passenger side) needs to be done. Too many emergency cars came in (accidents to fix).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: the painter needs that plotter as well for contemporary cars to fix big dents (caused by an accident) in the sheet metal where the sheet metal is not replaced.



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2020-01-18 10:14 AM




(IMG_6837_earth mounting ring.JPG)



(IMG_6836_plotter to dig out sheet metal.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_6837_earth mounting ring.JPG (331KB - 2 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6836_plotter to dig out sheet metal.JPG (298KB - 2 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2020-01-22 1:48 PM (#593330 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Location: ZH, Switzerland

Today I had a free day. So I visited Mehmet at the paint & body shop (CarPark) again. I carried more than enough 5/16" threaded stems with me to mount the fenders back to the body. A longer and a shorter one earlier I brought at home, wire brushed and used as templates for the lenght.

During watching him preparing the parts and helping him deciding if 7G or Primer is the correct tone (of Tiefseeblau metallic) to paint parts on a 2013 BMW F20, Mehmet told me that all parts (front fenders, both doors, hood (finished)) are at the professional sand blaster now.

Prospective: On Saturday Yunus is coming to fix the rear end definitively. Wihin two weeks we are getting back the front fenders, both doors and the hood. All parts actually at the sand blaster are coming back with primer (like the first batch, few pages back in my thread). The primer has a rest period of two weeks until the building process of the color structure could start.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2020-01-22 2:03 PM
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