Today (assuncion) I removed all 16 lifters and put it into a frame. Then I removed the resting chrome trim at the RH side. I managed to get two holders of the side rail out of the holes /wo damage. I assume they were made out of phenolic resin. Partially I put the chrome trim together. I noticed at the emblems that the blue color almost separated completely. What type of color is it? It looks like light blue metallc (very fine powder).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Thanks for your pictures. The emblem at the rear I removed as well. It looks very good like yours. The side emblems are looking like on your 300F (the running one). It seems that the blue color is not very light resistant or - because it peels off not as adhesive like the white and red color. The only thing that appeared in my head about that is that I could go to a body shop to ask if they could renovate the blue color (new, water based color not to damage the acrylic like carrier).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Today I removed the front windows and fiddled with the quarter windows (#@*&^%! #@*&^%! #@*&^%! #@*&^%!) up to the point that I didn't feel anything in my finger tips anymore. It's the worst pain to work at the quarter windows. Instead of driving with my Beast. It's a wonderful day here today.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter

BTW: I slammed the drivers door that much that the lever of the outer door handle to the door lock separated.... and went away after I fixed the link; tomorrow is another day. Then I'll try the removal again with removing the allen screws at the pivot point/lever mechanism.

Now the quarter window of the drivers side is out of the Letter. I had to remove really all screws. First of all the lifting mechanism fell down and then I had to wiggle the window up and down until the front and rear guides fell down. Finally I could route the window out of the channel between the outer and the inner shell of the quarter panel. But not with binding once more. I damaged the headliner as well, but I have to remove it anyway.

The electric window lift is still inside. I couldn't remove it out of the service opening.

Picture IMG_2708 shows a sheet metal screw. How do I remove it? it's the only one connection holding the electric lift mechanism in the drivers door.

There are some pictures included showing a zinc plated channel inside the drivers side rocker, covering the wiring harness to the rear. How do I remove it? Should I let it stay or use a crowbar to force it out?

Good news is that all the clips holding the passenger side section of the wiring harness in place (clips) are intact and rustfree. The big pug(body wiring harness plug) is open now. It's only the illumination of the rear license plate resisting the removal...

During the removal of the quarter window I just thought I'll never ever mount these windows again. When I think about the mounting of these windows for me it's worse than the worst nightmare.

Happy Motoring!

Dieter

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First I took a picture of my cat (Paulus du Tricolomtèreu) who likes the frame of the grille. I removed the pivot and lever as an assemble after moving it to the top down position, mechanism first out of the service hole. this afternoon I got the last securing washer out of the passenger side quarter window mechanism. I removed all screws at the lower stop and the pivot/lever mechanism. But without removing the guides (rear and front) and moving the lever mechansm to the top upper position I couldn't remove the quarter window.

Bylaying pictures are showing the setting at the top bottom position with details.

Happy restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I'm sure the mounting of a quarter window needs two persons. With one person (like me) it's at least one hand missing. Because all the parts (window, lifter mechanism, guides) have to be mounted through the service opening.

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Yes Nick, you're correct. The only way to get the quarter windows out of the body is digging it out of the slot between the inner structure and the outer body shell. Binding is the rear guide at the window holder. As you can see it's reinforced and three dimensional. The rear guide (btw) is open to the rear when installed. So it's necessary first to remove the rear guide to try to remove the quarter windows. The window lift mechanism shound be almost at the top to remove the window and at the bottom position to remove the lift mechanism...

My meaning (btw) is, that it's almost impossible to mount the window, both guides and the lever mechanism together (only access through the service opening) and hold the window (that it doesn't fall down) is too much for only one man - at least one hand is missing... pls keep in mind (for some readers) it's a hardtop, not a convertible.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Dieter

From a nice guy I know that the weak point of the window lever mechanic (electric windows) is the nylon gear in the lever gear. That can break. A guy at the Chrysler 300 Club International offers a restoration with brass instead of nylon. I just argue if the weak point shifts to another corner.

First of all I would determine if the quarter window is out of place or the window in the front door. Both could be adjusted. But I assume only one needs a readjustment. Personally I do not have many spare parts for the hole car.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: good luck Jari - I hope my documentation with pictures and description would help. I would not wonder if first you have to put the quarter window lever to the lowest point to put it into the body and then scroll up almost to the top to insert the small rollers into the carrier of the glass. Then install the rear and front guide and adjust the whole assembly.

Today I picked up the parcel form Jeff Carter Company. Helluwa I got the Fleetsweep ornament. It looks great. Plus six ornaments in the size of the wheel covers/trunk lid ornament (basically a converted hub cap). So I need these parts...

- grille frame (with a lot of my upper body weight I could close the gap, but it springs back when I release the force -> heavy bent)

- straight rear bumper

- both gutter rails (polished stainless steel) at the roof line.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Hi Nick
Yes all six ornaments I got from JCParts as well. Do you know - does the  club sell the side ornaments? I only noticed the grille emblem. I'm very happy and released because I got the trunk ornament.

State at my Letter this afternoon:

All side windows are out of my Letter and I cleaned the bottom of the doors a little bit. All the guides are out of my Letter as well.
Next I'll start with removing the small parts (push button arrays, electric switches and so on) at the dashboard to finally remove the dashboard.

Happy restoring!

Dieter

I think it's just  necessary to replace the carrier with the french national flag colors. As far as I saw the character and the numbers are boltet on the carrier. Perhaps Jari (Adventurer 60) knows a source.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Today I just removed small parts (sun visors and dome lights). I looked closer at the window lifts to free the drivers side quarter window lift a little bit more and noticed a damage at the drivers side door window lift. Three teeth are shaved off or bent. In my case it looks like the damaged area is at the bottom.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: the part numbers printed onto the electric window lifts:

front doors: left: 1963 647

                right: 1963 646

quarter window left: 1963 377

                     right: 1963 376

The 1960 parts manual shows 1964 numbers....

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Today I removed the roof rail stainless steel. Happily I could dig the resting weatherstrip out of the channel to get access to the Philips screws (about every 10 cm one). I proceeded with the inner stainless steel trim and was astonished that on both sides at the front end piece there was only one screw. The second one was never ever mounted...
After removing the all of the roof line stainless steel trim I noticed that the bows (holding the headliner in place) are out of stainless steel as well and secured with a Philips screw at each side. I couldn't resist and removed all three bows as well. Finally I took out the headliner. It's imitation leather from the outside finish (texture like leather). There are leather stripes with the width of the inside of the stainless steel bows

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Today I reomved the rear bumper to get access to remove the license plate trim/ filler neck recession trim. There is a small bump at the drivers side, but I assume not visible when a straight bumper with horns is mounted. During the removal I had to get up several times to look around where the bumper could be attached to the body as well. Once I hit my head at the top corner of the drivers side rear lamp.... ouch

Becaue I do not want to cut the emergency brake cable I mounted the holder once again. I plan to use two conter hex nuts to hold the thread while loosening the adjusting nut. It's UNF and the size of the adjuster screw is 1/2".

I noticed rust at the passenger side door

a) frame at the top near the vent frame

b) shell front lower corner

Finally I removed the package shelf. Top the fabric Nick and Jari described, below a cardpaper layer with three arrays of holes and the heater hose between the valve and the intake of the heater core.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I think I'm on track to finish the disassembling early November 2016. Now the big parts could start (gas tank, transmission, engine, dashboard, heater system, brake system, windshield and rear window)

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Thanks a lot.

Today I removed the horns and tested each at home. Both are working . I'm preparing for the removal of the dashboard and wanted to know where the coordinator switch is mounted. Today - more per coincidence I got it. It's located near the wiper motor at the passenger side. Just for documentation purposes I took some pictures (heater box with thermostat wire, vacuum actuators). I managed to free the wiring harness from the radiator yoke.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Yesterday late evening I removed the emergency brake cable out of the drum. Today I removed the remote outside mirror at the drivers side. First I removed the adjuster from the dashboard and then the three wires from the adjuster. There was no plastic cover at the rear of the adjuster mechanism nor color markings at the three wires. So I used adhesive tape to mark each wire with the corresponding character (addressed from the back of the adjuster, Y, R, G).

I looked closer at the roof and got very lucky. I always thought - ouch the roof is very rusty. But it isn't. It's a surface of a vinil - effect color once sprayed onto the original (alpine white) color. Underneath the roof shell is rustfree - except at the drivers  side C pillar end.

Personally I do not like a vinil roof - I'll stay with a roof with a factory color, in my case WW1 - like my Letter left from the factory.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Thanks Nick, I didn't know that. I assue it was aftermarket or dealer applied. Here are some pictures by the way.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I was quite astonished about what I found under the remote outside mirror: a) apparently the original color (glossy like a mirror) and two screw holes at the rear...

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Hi Nick - I know that you have aftermarket remote mirror from your thread. But your mirrors are looking absolutely stunning. As set of two mirror with this condition costs at epain at least USD 600.-

I was working on my Letter again for some hours. I removed the bezel of the transmission button array. The mechanism I gonna remove when I unhooked the cable at the iron hog. Also I removed the heater control array. First I thought you all my friends could call me the worst idiot walking on this planet. But after a quick visit at the Chrysler 300 Club Interntational page (heater control) I got out that it's normal that almost all nipples broke off during the removal of the plug. Apparently no relation to how much care you'll apply. Fortunately earlier on I purchased a heater control /w bezel and buttons at epain. At that one button is completely locked (electric contact bent). But all nipples are present at the back plate . Furthermore I removed the throttle pedal, the mechanism and the attaching point of the lever of the seat frame.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: at the control switch of my Letter both speeds of the fan are working - I checked it earlier on

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Thanks a lot for your flowers. I'm trying to do my best. It's a "try and error" method, because it's my very first project I'm processing. I'm taking loads of pictures, writing a documentation book and this thread for to know how to assemble my Letter once. Because I'm working as a truck driver I need time (spell years) to finish my project.

Prior to remove the heater control I took a picture to elaborate the steps (plus many advices and kicks in my back from my friend Wizard). First I took a small blade screw driver to remove the clip from the bottom. Then I could slide out the o-ring of the wire of the temperature adjuster.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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At the roofrail weatherstrips (where the side windows go in when fully rised) I found a parts number: 1884 646    - 7 A EK. I didn't find that part number in the 1960 parts manual.

The weatherstrips were slided in into the channel, apparently from the front to the back (base of the C pillar). So I could only dig it out with no damage. Only the first about 4 inches have gone during the time. The residues I removed were sticky like tar.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

This evening after n advice of a good friend I removed the speaker with the fiberglass holder. Bylaying are some pictures about how the dashpad was originally mounted. In my Letter it's falling apart so I need a replacement as well. I'll choose RD Autoline in Sweden because last year when I visited the PBM 2015 I met the guys at their booth. they had a 1960 and 1961 dashpad on display at the booth.

I applied some (or a lot of) penetrating oil to free the vacuum motors. With no speaker mounted, the access to the wiper linkage and the vacuum motor for the open/close function of the 715 heater is ways better. As a result all three vacuum motors are moving again. The vacuum hoses under the dash are in a good shape as well (flexible like almost new).

The hex nut of the inside mirror I couldn't open right now. It's a big pressed mild steel nut in my case.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Today I removed the neutral switch to get access to the spring, holding the end of the mode/gear selector cable. finally I could dig out the gear selector cable. Then I removed the cooling lines at the transmission. I took some pictures of the front end, because I think it's misaligned due to an accident. In my opinion the front bumper is ways too high compared to other senior 1960 Chryslers.

To loosen the nut at the filler tube to drain the transmission first I have to purchase a 1 1/16 hex wrench. The 1 1/8 I have is too big.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Thanks a lot Sven I'll do it next time.
This evening I went to my Letter again to  remove the gear selector mechanism. First of all the bracket and the connector to the illumination lamp must be removed and disconnected. Then remove the hex nuts and slide the mechanism back and turn it 30 to 45 degree to the RH side. So you'll get access to the back up switch to unhook the socket. Without the AstroDome in place this work is ways easier. After I removed (or during) I discovered another orange colored item mounted at the side (covered by the gear selector mechanism). It looks like a circuit breaker (array?) or a voltage regulator.

Now as far as I concern it's just the light switch, the wiper switch and the wiper motor/washer coordinator switch connected to the dashboard wiring harness. Actually I don't know if I have to remove the ducts to the windshield defroster channel prior to the removal of the dashboard as well.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: (IMG_2870_resized.JPG) at the bottom of the opening the threads of the attaching screws of the directional signal switch are visible. The heads of these two screws accept a Philips screw driver. I'll convert the mounting to the same configuration like the gear selector mechanism

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The box is brown or gray, but not orange. Only the characters are orange...

I drained the transmission and received the (very expensive) vacuum heater control switch (NOS). I just wonder what type of plastic material it is made out of. It's a thermoplast and honey colored (I assume the natural color of the plastic).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Today I removed the relays in the motor bay and the air ducts under the dashboard. Remaining are the directional switch, the light switch, the wiper switch and the clock to remove or at least to disconnect from the wiring harness. Because the glove box liner has to go through the opening (wiper motor partially and heater box between the firewall and the glove box liner) it's beyond any hope now. But good luck: Gary Goers offers new linings.

I'm on track with the disassemblage... (time table)

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: the first picture shows the voltage regulator. I assume it's an alternator regulator - an alternator was mounted at the engine when I purchased my Letter - most possibly dealer installed

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Thanks a lot Nick. It's what I was assuming according the electric drawings (wiring schematics). My Letter has a 6-way electric seat frame adjuster, power windows and the rear cigarette lighter. When I'm ready at the final assembling I assume I'll add the wire for the power antenna as well to the RH rear fender to later on add a power antenna.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Today I removed - I couldn't believe it but now it's out - the dashboard. I had to remove the socket of the map lamp - the last remaining connection in the dashboard to the wiring harness. After the removal of the dashboard I removed the directional switch. It's now out for a service. The brown wire is broken off at the switch. Both front directional wires have below 0.5 Ohms to the flasher input wire when the lever is in the corresponding positon.

I took the seat frame with me to my home. I conncted the laboratory power supply (adjusted to 14.4 V/ 30A). First I disconnected all solenoids (three of them) to check if the motor cranks forwards and backwards. It does. So I conncted the solenoids again. The basic functions forth / back and up / down are working. The movement is quite fast (/wo seats and guys sitting in both front seats). But to move it at the front or rear I have to disconnect the corresponding solenoid. I think the know is to narrow to the bezel to engage the diagonal connections (logical conclusion to move the lever diagonal to tilt the seat frame).

Next steps (except the work under my Letter) are the removal of the wiper system, the heater system, the main brake cylinder and brake booster, the wiring harness and the windshield/rear window.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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I just got an advice from a good friend. Twist the knob cw and ccw to tilt the seat. It works, my seat frame is moving like a gem .

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Hi Jari

I just visited your thread as well after I read your question. In my opinion the stops are generic parts used in all ChryCo hardtop models (estimation without visiting the 1960 parts manual). to get an idea specially for you I took some pictures I attached to my answer.

First of all I put all of the removed hardware seperately in boxes per window position (VR = front door passenger side (vorne rechts), HR quarter window passenger side (hinten rechts). In the boxes are the securing washers for the arms of the lifter mechanism as well as the stops I removed. By laying is the corresponding lower stop. At the lower stop of the quarter window is a recessed bar - when mounted correctly, the remaining mounting points of the electric window lift are in line with the screw holes of the recessed bar. To get the correct position I let the stop at the bar. Near the front door (pass side) box there is the corresponding lower stop of the pass side front door.

For both upper stops I took a picture. There are two for the rear and the door window. It looks like the front door upper stops were dipped in melted rubber - I assume a shrinking hose would do the job as well...

1951 is the lower quarter panel (passenger side prior the removing of the electric lift and window glass).

Good luck Jari

Dieter

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Thanks a lot.
The green wire has indead an inline fuse in my wiring harness as well. The 10 gage red wire is the feed for the 6-way power front seat. The upper dual red wires are from the battery and going to the amm meter. I was just wondering: it seems my 300F has only two breakers and not three like addressed in the 1960 service manual. So the electric window lifts and the rear cigarette lighter are on the same breaker.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter