The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

another 1960 Chrysler appeared
Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 6
Now viewing page 5 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look NON-Technical Discussions -> Members RidesMessage format
 
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-01 10:23 AM (#518115 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Today I removed the circuit breakers and the power supply for the Astro Dome. There are two circuit breakers installed. The LH one (nearer to the firewall) is rated 40A and used for the 6-way power seat, the rear one, rated 30A, is used only for the window lifts. The three wires are the feeding lines to each switch (4-way switch in the front, 2 2-way switches at the rear). The green wire with the inline fuse is the feeding line for the rear cigarette lighter only. The ground of the cigarette lighter is routed through the wiring harness to the passenger quarter window lift. It's the white wire bolted at the bottom of the recessed reinforcement bar (with the lower quarter window stop).

The power supply was a pain to remove even though the dashboard is out. The screw heads are 5/16". The shape of the case is very different to the shape of later cars - even thogh the function and the rating (I assume) are similar.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW at the LH side of the circuit breaker array there is the resting mounting slot for the third breaker switch visible...



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-08-01 1:27 PM




(IMG_3072_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3072_resized.JPG (237KB - 106 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-09 3:14 PM (#518697 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Yesterday I got the information from my friend, that he was discussing with Jan (Fridberg). The conclusion is that the master of wizards of body work has a super booked schedule for years now and no time for my car anymore. So I'm thinking about further steps of what and to whom. But no news anymore.

 Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-14 10:07 AM (#519007 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

I came to the conclusion to keep on with the restoration with the hope that the master of wizards of body work (Jan Fridberg) once has time to do the body work on my Letter. If not this winter I hope next winter or next winter over. There are many issues at the body from the front end to the rear wall. At least from what I could see (perimeter around the weatherstrips of the windshield and rear window) there is not much or no rust under the weatherstrips.

Today I just scratched a part of the gasket between the outer roof rails and the roof away. I removed the upper four hex nuts at the reinforcement mounting plate of the brake booster. I realized that first I have to remove the main brake.

I took a picture of the firewall near the opening of the heater fan wheel. The number embossed into the firewall is completely different than the VIN of my Letter...

Dieter

BTW: at the picture you could easily recognize that the firewall/engine bay originally was white... one owner used satin black and sprayed over everything, even the wires of the wiring harness. I could scratch off the black color to get the original color of the wire...



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-08-14 10:13 AM




(IMG_3116_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3116_resized.JPG (252KB - 105 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
NicksGarage
Posted 2016-08-15 12:15 AM (#519049 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 534
50025
Location: San Diego, CA
The numbers may match the build sequence number from your build sheet.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-15 2:34 PM (#519090 - in reply to #519049)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

NicksGarage - 2016-08-14 6:15 AM The numbers may match the build sequence number from your build sheet.

Thanks Nick I'll check it.

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-15 2:35 PM (#519091 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

This is the state of the body of my Letter. The wiring harness is almost out. The dashboard and the heater box are out.

Dieter

BTW: these are the picture I sent to Jan (original size)





(IMG_2739_resized.JPG)



(IMG_2791_resized.JPG)



(IMG_2864_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3093_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3096_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_2739_resized.JPG (313KB - 126 downloads)
Attachments IMG_2791_resized.JPG (264KB - 105 downloads)
Attachments IMG_2864_resized.JPG (284KB - 109 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3093_resized.JPG (326KB - 120 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3096_resized.JPG (246KB - 104 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-19 3:18 PM (#519390 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

This evening I just removed one screw at the passgenger side of the holder of the front bumper. The target is to remove the front bumper as well.

Then I removed the drain plug at the oil pan because I wondered how the content of the oil pan would look like. First of all clear water came out, I assume between half of and a galon of water. Finally a milk coffee colored cream came out... at the end with many popel like stuff (milk coffee brown as well). It's still rinsing...

Good luck I took my big bricklayer pan to collect the stuff out of the oil pan.

Dieter





(IMG_3128_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3129_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3128_resized.JPG (161KB - 101 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3129_resized.JPG (138KB - 116 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-20 4:21 PM (#519447 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

This evening I removed the front bumper. What I saw on the passenger side corner of the front subframe is not very nice, clear evidences of an accident. The pictures will follow tomorrow when iti's brighter.

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-21 6:15 AM (#519478 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Today I checked the heater fan motor, still installed in the inside duct. The flow of air is very impressive at the high mode. While picking up the inner and outer ducts of the heater I took some pictures from the front end of the front frame. Here they are...

 

Dieter

 





(IMG_3135_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3136_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3137_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3138_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3139_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3135_resized.JPG (263KB - 118 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3136_resized.JPG (255KB - 114 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3137_resized.JPG (235KB - 99 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3138_resized.JPG (211KB - 119 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3139_resized.JPG (276KB - 118 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-27 11:58 AM (#519947 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

This afternoon it was very hot. So I just removed the vacuum canister of the brake system. To remove the brake hose to LH front brake I had to use the vise grip to fix the hex nut at the brake line. Finally I succeeded - years ago I had to use the same method at the passenger side front brake at my Beast.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-08-27 11:59 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-30 2:33 PM (#520172 - in reply to #519049)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

NicksGarage - 2016-08-14 6:15 AM The numbers may match the build sequence number from your build sheet.

Yes Nick your correct. It's the sequence number, the scheduled data and some more.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-08-30 2:35 PM (#520173 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

For all of my friends, I'm saving really hard to afford my hobby.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
NicksGarage
Posted 2016-08-30 4:21 PM (#520179 - in reply to #520173)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 534
50025
Location: San Diego, CA
di_ch_NY56 - 2016-08-30 11:35 AM

For all of my friends, I'm saving really hard to afford my hobby.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



It's not easy for some of us. I was lucky to have a car that went up in value enough for me to sell it to get my F. Otherwise I'd still be a dreamer. Now I'm selling parts to afford stuff for the F.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Adventurer 60
Posted 2016-08-31 7:38 AM (#520220 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 738
50010010025
Location: tailFinland
By the way Nick, Do you much left over F-parts from your ex F? I need some interior pieces for my G
Top of the page Bottom of the page
NicksGarage
Posted 2016-08-31 1:19 PM (#520240 - in reply to #520220)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Extreme Veteran

Posts: 534
50025
Location: San Diego, CA
Adventurer 60 - 2016-08-31 4:38 AM

By the way Nick, Do you much left over F-parts from your ex F? I need some interior pieces for my G


I have most of the parts from the car other than the body. The interior was pretty rotten from sitting around with no back window for years. I'm still figuring out what I need from it for my new one but I'm in the middle or working on my house to sell it and move so haven't been able to do much with it. Send me a private message.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-09-03 4:57 AM (#520408 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Today I got a big parcel from a city in California containing the grille frame. it's not cracked but the general condition is ways worse than the original grille frame (in the back ground at the LH side of the picture). The dome lenses are here, too. I got it from Murrieta, CA.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-09-03 6:52 AM




(IMG_3169_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3169_resized.JPG (271KB - 112 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-09-03 7:59 AM (#520417 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

I just noticed that all of the card paper parts are that weak (age and dried out) that it even couldn't resist a pressure with the thumb without falling through. While I was removing the glove box liner I noticed that the card paper breaks instead of bending like a new card paper. E.g. the parts of the inner heater box (passenger room) pointing to the firewall are completely out of card paper and fixed to the synthetical material with staples and a kind of rivets.

So I came to the conclusion that I have to replace really all card paper parts.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
FIN ME
Posted 2016-09-03 8:47 AM (#520421 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Expert

Posts: 2791
2000500100100252525
Location: USA - KY

I know the feeling, Dieter.

I used the old glove box liner from my car as a template, and made a new one myself...it was pretty easy. The original glove box liners were flocked in some (if not all) of the F.L. cars, but I didn't bother with that. Flocking sprays are available, but you likely know that already.

Gary Goers has nice glove box liners for sale as well, and folks here seem to like them just fine.

Happy Restoring to you too!



Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-09-03 12:45 PM (#520432 - in reply to #520421)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

FIN ME - 2016-09-02 2:47 PM I know the feeling, Dieter. I used the old glove box liner from my car as a template, and made a new one myself...it was pretty easy. The original glove box liners were flocked in some (if not all) of the F.L. cars, but I didn't bother with that. Flocking sprays are available, but you likely know that already. Gary Goers has nice glove box liners for sale as well, and folks here seem to like them just fine. Happy Restoring to you too! :cool:

Hey thanks a lot. The GB liner in my 1956 NY is flocked and I got a replacement from Gary Goers, but it's not installed until today. The GB liner in a 1960 Chrysler, not only 300F, has a more complicated shape and from my experience and pictures - it's not flocked. What tortures me more is the internal heater box (the heater box 715 has two parts, the inner and the outer in the motor bay). First of all I have to find the correct card paper type and then carefully separate the existing card paper from the duct. It's a three dimension item with internal channels. Of course I would add some improvements, because the second "bearing" of the distributor flap (defrost/floor) is in the card paper area and I assume there are small air leaks at the upper junction between the card paper and the synthetic material - I think a small and long piece of aluminum or steel would improve the box.

Happy Restoring to you as well.

Dieter





(IMG_3171_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3173_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3171_resized.JPG (220KB - 113 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3173_resized.JPG (232KB - 115 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
60 Windsor
Posted 2016-09-03 10:47 PM (#520465 - in reply to #520432)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


Member

Posts: 41
25
Location: South Central PA
Gary Goers makes a replacement for the heater box too. It uses rivets instead of staples. I replaced mine and it fit really good
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-09-04 2:57 AM (#520468 - in reply to #520465)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

60 Windsor - 2016-09-03 4:47 AM Gary Goers makes a replacement for the heater box too. It uses rivets instead of staples. I replaced mine and it fit really good

Thanks a lot for your hint. I appreciate your hint very much. As far as I noticed in the catalog 10 from Gary Goers it's the parts number 699 and I have to specify with no air condition. Furthermore I noticed at the same page that there is a replacement for the broken emergency brake release lever handle (702 or 703).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-09-04 7:13 AM (#520475 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Today I removed the gas tank. Even though it has many dents at the bottom it looks quite good. As well from what I could see the bottom of the trunk floor looks like new. I couldn't resist and took my multimeter to check the resistance between the sender wire and the cleaned area around the bajonet cover of the sender: 173 ohms. I assume I need many hours just to clean the outside of the gas tank...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_3175_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3178_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3181_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3175_resized.JPG (284KB - 113 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3178_resized.JPG (317KB - 99 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3181_resized.JPG (250KB - 114 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-09-10 3:47 PM (#520952 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

This evening I found the vent tube to the gas tank again and cleaned it inside. I assume it's a straight tube with no one way valve incorporated. Then I cleaned the gas tank at some patches. It looks like the surface has a zinc layer to protect the surface from rusting that is intact. I was able to remove the lock ring and finally dig out the sender unit. So I had a sight into the gas tank. From what I noticed the resting gas is red and the internal of the gas tank has a zinc layer as well. It could be that the gas tank was almost full when the piston #1 sized (judgeing from the surface of the cylinder wall and the condition of the surface of the top of the piston #1).

Happy Restoring! I do not give up until my Letter is fully restored.

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-09 11:27 AM (#522969 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Many weeks earlier I removed the upper passenger side bolt between the transmission and bellhouse to measure the thread size. It's 7/16" UNC. So I purchased two hex screws according the lenght addressed by Wizard to build two guides to remove the transmission without damaging the front pump sleeve.

Today I removed the resting three hex screws, but not without a damage ... For sure I need one 7/16" UNC Heli Coil as an insert for the lower thread in the bellhouse at the driver side...

Next step is to slide the bigger hydraulic jack sidewards to the rear to remove the transmission.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-10-09 2:31 PM




(IMG_3258_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3261_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3258_resized.JPG (440KB - 108 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3261_resized.JPG (319KB - 106 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-09 2:28 PM (#522978 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

I hope I catched the transmission at the gravitation center. That's important, otherwise the trans could fell down. For that reason I used a quite decent load securing strap /w ratchet.

Prioe to take the picture above I moved the trans/engine combo to a more horizontal position. So it should be easier to move the trans out without damaging the sleeve...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-10-09 2:30 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
ttotired
Posted 2016-10-09 6:01 PM (#522997 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Expert 5K+

Posts: 8083
500020001000252525
Location: Perth Australia
Turn your jack around Dieter

If it is unbalanced, it will fall like that, but the other thing is, you need the transmission to come back pretty much 12 inches.

You will find it much easier to slide the trans back with the jack parallel with the car, then lower the trans and push it out the front.

Only time I have taken a trans out the side is if it slipped off the jack or I wasnt using one.

Dont be tempted to not use one with a torqueflite, they are incredibly heavy

Top of the page Bottom of the page
Chrome58
Posted 2016-10-10 2:46 AM (#523025 - in reply to #522978)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1154
10001002525
Location: Belgium, 40 miles south of Brussels
di_ch_NY56 - 2016-10-09 5:27 PM

Many weeks earlier I removed the upper passenger side bolt between the transmission and bellhouse to measure the thread size. It's 7/16" UNC. So I purchased two hex screws according the lenght addressed by Wizard to build two guides to remove the transmission without damaging the front pump sleeve.

Dieter, can you tell me the screw length you bought ?
I have to do the same as you on my car ...

di_ch_NY56 - 2016-10-09 8:28 PM

I hope I catched the transmission at the gravitation center. That's important, otherwise the trans could fell down. For that reason I used a quite decent load securing strap /w ratchet.

I've been told that it's not very good to jack the transmission at the oil pan, as it might crush.
I think you have to support it on the sides, where the bolts are.
You might want to build a special cradle, that's what I did.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-10 2:34 PM (#523071 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Hi Vincent

Thanks a lot for your answers. Yes I was thinking of turning the hydraulic jack for 90 degrees. But in my house I have two truck load securing bands with ratchet. The other option is to route the securing bands around the rear axle, tighten it with the ratchet and use the ratchet to shorten the loop - so the jack would move slowly sidwards.

I used according a hint 20 mm ply wood pieces to support the oil pan - the ply wood piece is bigger than the width of the oil pan so I would support the edges of the oil pan.

Stud legnth, it's the original content of the mail I got. Strictly I followed that hint:

Found the bloody thread – the studs shall be made out of 7/16" X 14 bolts with a length of 3” – just cut off the heads, grind them pointy and saw a screwdriver slot in the ends.

 Good luck and happy Restoring

Dieter

I just purchased a 7/16 UNC helicoil thread repair set in England...

Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2016-10-10 3:22 PM (#523076 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 11084
500050001000252525
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Looks like s good set-up for the demounting and lift-down Dieter. I have used this method on all transmissions and it's absolutely safe for the pan.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-15 11:07 AM (#523484 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

After one hour of work (without preparation) the trans is finally off, but still laying on the jack until next weekend. Fortunately it didn't fell down, but ouch it's heavy.

First of all I tried to move the hydraulic jack away. But suddenly I realized that the trans didn't separate from the bell house. So I used one load securing band to pull the trans and wiggled the engine up/trans down and reverse until the trans separated. There is not much space at the rear, because the trans is wider than the opening between the attaching points of the torsion bars.

I was very surprised how much of trans fluid was still in the trans... so I imagine with no other movement than removing the filler pipe there is never a complete exchange of trans fluid while exchanging the trans fluid...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_3273_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3274_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3275_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3273_resized.JPG (121KB - 97 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3274_resized.JPG (207KB - 68 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3275_resized.JPG (250KB - 100 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2016-10-15 11:40 AM (#523486 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 11084
500050001000252525
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Great work Dieter! I see that the studs worked just fine and that the front pump drive sleeve is still in position and not damaged in the process.

You can pull out the sleeve and check the status of the drive tabs - sometimes they are worn almost through and sometimes even sheered off.

This is an important part and expensive as well, so take care of it if it's in good shape.

Now you should put sturdy plastic bags over the splines of the shafts and pull tight with straps around the pump neck. Put some plugs in all holes and clean up the transmission outside as well as you can.

This will save some work for the guy that will renovate the transmission and you will save some money as well.

DONT TURN THE TRANSMISSION UPSIDE DOWN (All the eventual gunk in the pan will fall down on the valve body)

When the outside is cleaned, turn the transmission carefully on the side and remove the pan - Clean the pan inside and put it back.
After this you can turn the transmission upside down as you whish.


You can remove the parking brake drum and all the internal brake parts - this must be done any which way when the transmission will be renovated.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
ttotired
Posted 2016-10-15 7:11 PM (#523509 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Expert 5K+

Posts: 8083
500020001000252525
Location: Perth Australia
As a repairer, I would say NOT to clean it internally if your giving it to someone else to repair.

The contents of the pan can be a good indication of what (if any) problems are happening to the trans

Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2016-10-16 3:49 AM (#523522 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 11084
500050001000252525
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Yes, that's a Point Mick, but it's easy to take a Picture of the gunk and even save it in a jar.
Any which way, there must be a total teardown of that trans.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-16 7:45 AM (#523527 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

I couldn't resist - I went to my Letter again today. I was able to route the hydraulic jack between the RH stands and the trans between the attaching points of the torsion bars. Partially I cleaned the surface of the trans and a very interesting plate appeared. The sleeve - IMHO - doesn't show wear, but the counter part in the torque converter shows very small brow on edge driving the sleeve. From what I could see at the front pump, there are no brows visible - it looks like new...

Thank you very much for your comments about the trans. I appreciate it very much.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_3276_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3277_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3280_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3281_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3282_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3276_resized.JPG (332KB - 103 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3277_resized.JPG (214KB - 77 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3280_resized.JPG (325KB - 101 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3281_resized.JPG (230KB - 98 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3282_resized.JPG (315KB - 99 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2016-10-16 7:57 AM (#523528 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 11084
500050001000252525
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
The sleeve looks to be in an excellent shape Dieter.

When/if the front pump is binding, then the forces on the sleeve makes the tabs to wear down or sheere off even. The state of the sleeve makes me Think that the front pump is still in good shape.

That sign looks promising - never saw anything like it - I'm very curious to see the inside of the pan, perhaps the trans is not wrecked!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-16 9:00 AM (#523532 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Prior to remove the sleeve I turned the sleeve installed. I could feel some resistance, but IMHO it feels like there is still some trans fluid in the front pump. I could notice that the output shaft was cranking to the same direction like the input shaft...

Actually the trans is at the plank. I wore working gloves and grabbed the brake drum combo and the front shaft to lift the trans from the jack to the plank. Either I'm quite strong or the trans is not that heavy... .

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I don't know if or when Macy Transmission moved over from Oakland CA to Martinez CA. Or if Macy Transmission Martinez CA is quite new in the business compared to the sign on my trans. Either way in Martinez CA apparently was the dealer who sold my Letter to the first customer.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2016-10-16 12:13 PM (#523557 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 11084
500050001000252525
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Great Dieter!
Once you have cleaned the outside and the pan it's a good idea to bring it to an ambient that's not humid (long time storage without fluid might cause Surface rust in the valve body).

Clean the aluminum extension with degreaser and only soft rotating brushes, then the aluminum needs to be protected with a layer of clear coat.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-22 10:50 AM (#524057 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

This afternoon I worked for more than one hour to clean the surface of the iron hog. I turned it to both sides to clean the side surfaces as good as possible. I discovered a trans fluid leak at the throttle lever shaft... After cleaning I turned the trans to the other side and removed the oil pan. Ouch, what a mess. I assume the pictures are showing evidence...

Here are the pictures, please enjoy.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: the second picture of the internal of the oil pan I took after I cleaned it with house hold paper and my finger nail. I don't know if anybody used an additive or wrong trans fluid. But I assume the shiftings of the trans were not sactisfactory. The adjusting screw of the throttle lever linkage was loose and the adjusting part not in line as expected when I looked at the undercarriage the first time.





(IMG_3307_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3308_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3311_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3312_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3313_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3315_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3316_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3319_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3307_resized.JPG (426KB - 96 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3308_resized.JPG (390KB - 93 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3311_resized.JPG (269KB - 95 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3312_resized.JPG (362KB - 99 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3313_resized.JPG (356KB - 97 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3315_resized.JPG (345KB - 73 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3316_resized.JPG (486KB - 103 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3319_resized.JPG (435KB - 96 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2016-10-22 2:23 PM (#524081 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 11084
500050001000252525
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
Great Dieter! Another step forward!

From what I see, this transmission need to be totally demounted for a damage control and a rebuild.
The parts in the pan seems to be metal chips and residue.
Further, I think that there have been a coolant liquide leak sometimes before but this was most probably fixed because I see no water drops anywhere.

Actually, I have never seen that greenish yellow residue before in a transmission.

Hopefully someone will kick in here ......

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-22 2:54 PM (#524082 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Thanks a lot for your quotation about the iron hog of my Letter. While looking through my glasses I couldn't find some metallic residues. I don't know if these only are visible while my phone used the flash to take the picture.

I assume this is the reason somebody installed a later generation radiator into my Letter.

At Mr. Strubs I saw a disassembled iron hog on the work bench. The internals of the overrunning clutch where completely destroyed and all internal parts were rusty. Mr. Strub told me that this was caused by coolant in the transmission fluid at his station wagon.

From the stamped numbers and numbers casted in at the other side I'm sure it's not the original transmission. But I have no clue where it is from. At this point I only could say better this transmission than none. The original transmission of my Letter I assume is still laying around on a back jard of a mechanic shop. I only hope it's not that transmisson sold about five years ago at epain for 5k.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
ttotired
Posted 2016-10-22 6:47 PM (#524095 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Expert 5K+

Posts: 8083
500020001000252525
Location: Perth Australia
The greenish stuff may be a fluorescent dye, I use it A/C systems as a leak tracer, but it works in most things that are oil lubricated

But yep, that needs a really good going through and I would make sure that the bands and clutch packs are replaced

The bands for mine were re bonded locally (brake places do it) and the clutch packs and seals ect came from fatsco

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-23 8:31 AM (#524123 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Thanks a lot Mik

I just ordered a master kit from Fatsco for the A488 transmission of my Letter. I came to the conclusion to bring my A488 to Mr. Strub. He's not far from my home.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-10-23 12:55 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2016-10-23 9:30 AM (#524128 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 11084
500050001000252525
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
That's the best for you Dieter, it will save you a lot of Money for the transport.

Keep us posted as many are interested to follow the renovation and the eventual damages.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-10-23 1:00 PM (#524146 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

From what I got out the 1949 904 A488 was the standard torqueflite for all senior Chrysler models (and Imperial) except for the 300F. I hope it's possible to modify it to meet the specification of the 1949 808 transsmission.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-11-05 9:37 AM (#525366 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Last weekend I removed the emergency brake at the iron hog.

One more step forward was the repairing the broken tab at the switch ontop of the wiper gear. I used just instant glue and took care to mount the tab the same way it was. Furthermore I cut a piece of a very thin skin of a yogurth cup. I assume it's PE. The piece I mounted into the recession of the bottom case of the slider with contacts with two tabs. My idea was to lower the force to move the contacts out of the off position.

My wiper motor parks now again. Because I connected both the wiper motor and the coordinator switch to my laboraroy power supply I used a vacuum pump to engage the vacuum switch at the coordinator switch.

Results

ON at 7 in.Hg vac

OFF below 3 Hg vac

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: the blue wire is only hot if the wiper switch is at the OFF position. It's the wire soldered to one side of the switch ontop of the wiper gear

Top of the page Bottom of the page
big m
Posted 2016-11-05 10:32 AM (#525369 - in reply to #524081)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Expert 5K+

Posts: 7334
5000200010010010025
Location: Williams California
wizard - 2016-10-22 11:23 AM

Great Dieter! Another step forward!

From what I see, this transmission need to be totally demounted for a damage control and a rebuild.
The parts in the pan seems to be metal chips and residue.
Further, I think that there have been a coolant liquide leak sometimes before but this was most probably fixed because I see no water drops anywhere.

Actually, I have never seen that greenish yellow residue before in a transmission.

Hopefully someone will kick in here ......



Wiz,
The greenish residue is from old ATF that is breaking down. Pretty common for a car that has been setting for years.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-11-05 11:33 AM (#525376 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Thanks Big M

My Letter was under a rotting blue woven plane for six years until the seller discovered it. As the engine bay looks the hood was open for six years and no air cleaners were on top of the carbs.

The engine sized (BTW) while that owner didn't recognise a massive air leak at the cross ram. First it caused a broken cylinder head gasket (between a coolant channel and the cylinder wall) and finally the top of the piston #1 melted and the piston sized gravely. I think the replacement engine didn't last long.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-11-24 6:53 AM (#527057 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Because I wear a plaster on my right hand underarm I couldn't do much at my Letter. So I decided over the last few days to work at the instruments. Good news is that the oscillator out of my Letter works for hours with no interruption. The output voltage is 274 VAC at 14.4 VDC at the input. I decided to use 14.4V because it's the voltage I expect when the engine is running and the generator or alternator charging.

The instruments are very bright at the max. voltage and working until the input voltage drops below 5 VDC. The scale of the temp instruent is darker and stops glowing a little bit higher than all other instruments. It needs a further inverstigation.

At the clock the second pointer is not glowing like the minute and hour pointers. My friend wrote me, that this is normal. At the tachometer the needle is not glowing. But when I wiggle the case I could hear something moving inside. I could imagine that it's the broken Lintz wire....

Either way to rechrome the ring, replace the lens or the rubber gasket, repair the electroluminescent parts or restore the mechanic it's necessary to remove the ring. The seam of the ring is folded like the door skin around the door frame. Some guys are addressing that the ring is not removable. But I assume if I'll slice the seam to the center of the case (like spokes on a bicycle) to get tabs of about 1/10 of an inch I could separate the front ring from the case. BTW, the tachometer  is mounted  from the back - so the screws a tighening the ring to the case...

 

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_3416_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3417_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3418_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3421_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3416_resized.JPG (153KB - 44 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3417_resized.JPG (123KB - 44 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3418_resized.JPG (108KB - 43 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3421_resized.JPG (304KB - 43 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-12-04 6:41 AM (#527835 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

Last week I removed the main brake cylinder, the brake power booster and from the other side the pedal /w  attaching plate.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: Many of you might notice, that I came to the decision to flip my project bottom up. Because it's not clear at this time where my body will go to restore - I put it on hold (Sweden, Switzerland or Serbia). So I'll let restore the trans, the engine, the chrome trim, all parts of the passenger compartment (seats, door panels, and so on) in the near future





(IMG_3427_resized.JPG)



(IMG_3428_resized.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_3427_resized.JPG (281KB - 41 downloads)
Attachments IMG_3428_resized.JPG (338KB - 43 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
di_ch_NY56
Posted 2016-12-06 8:54 AM (#528005 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Elite Veteran

Posts: 1092
1000252525
Location: ZH, Switzerland

The bore diameters of my engine (a factory refurbished 413 HP engine)

1: 106.66 mm [4.199 in]    2: 106.80 mm [4.205 in]

3: 106.86 mm [4.207 in]    4: 106.86 mm [4.207 in]

5: 106.88 mm [4.208 in]    6: 106.78 mm [4.204 in]

7: 106.60 mm [4.197 in]    8: 106.78 mm [4.204 in]

The nominal bore diameter of a 413 engine is 4.1875 (4.19 in), 106.13 mm. With the first oversize from the factory (0.02 in) the bore diameter increases to 4.2075 in, 106.8705 mm. It's clear that the cylinder #1 has a smaller diameter. It has surface rust (like plates) on top of the piston at the cylinder wall.
For to measure the diameter I used a sliding caliper with a resolution of 0.02 mm (0.0008 in). I only measured the top 10 mm (0.4 in) from the deck. So there is no statement possible about the whole length of the bore. All depends on the surface of the cylinder #1 if just honing is possible or if I'll have to use the next oversize (Egge: 0.03, 0.06, factory: 0.04).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2016-12-06 8:59 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1 2 3 4 5 6
Now viewing page 5 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

Search for anything on eBay!

(Delete all cookies set by this site)