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another 1960 Chrysler appeared
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sermey
Posted 2017-11-11 10:57 AM (#552026 - in reply to #552017)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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Thanks a lot Serge. Is the baby the sister or brother of Cheyenne (apparently the older daugher)?

 

Dieter, this baby IS Cheyenne, look at the date of the picture (2000). You may have seen her now, 17 years old. When your Letter will have become rustfree and ready, she will be as well be ready for marry  . . . . still rustfree! 

Friendly  - SERGE -



Edited by sermey 2017-11-11 11:01 AM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2017-11-18 1:23 PM (#552610 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Today I worked almost seven hours with no food and no beverage to remove the tar layer on the passenger room floor. More work with the heat gun at the undercarriage tomorrow.
Beside the works performed and documented with a picture, the rust damage at the passenger side door (top front of the inner structure) is repaired and also a rust hole near the mounting point of the body to the subframe (very rare damage according Emil).

Still there are small adjusting issues at the rear lamp (driver side). Remember, the complete corner is reconstructed due to an older accident.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: at the passenger side c pillar was a crack in the fender at the front area of the c pillar - repaired...



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2017-11-18 1:29 PM




(IMG_4505_rear end reconstructed.JPG)



(IMG_4506_drivers side weatherstrip channel reconstructed.JPG)



(IMG_4507_passengerside weatherstrip channel as it is.JPG)



(IMG_4508_rear end complete.JPG)



(IMG_4509_passenger side c pillar repaired.JPG)



(IMG_4511_inner fender mounted with radiator yoke.JPG)



(IMG_4514 drivers side c pillar reconstructed.JPG)



(IMG_4516_deck lid adjusted.JPG)



(IMG_4517_front end check with grille frame.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_4505_rear end reconstructed.JPG (414KB - 67 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4506_drivers side weatherstrip channel reconstructed.JPG (387KB - 59 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4507_passengerside weatherstrip channel as it is.JPG (367KB - 75 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4508_rear end complete.JPG (341KB - 58 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4509_passenger side c pillar repaired.JPG (441KB - 66 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4511_inner fender mounted with radiator yoke.JPG (486KB - 68 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4514 drivers side c pillar reconstructed.JPG (450KB - 68 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4516_deck lid adjusted.JPG (356KB - 68 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4517_front end check with grille frame.JPG (398KB - 64 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2017-11-18 2:21 PM (#552615 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I'm happy to see that there's a steady progress on your car Dieter! I bet there's less butterflies in your stomach when you look at your car now....
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2017-11-20 1:21 PM (#552778 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks Wizard (Sven) for your encouraging words.
On Sunday I was working for 11 hours with the heat gun and two scrapers (a painters scraper and a wood worker scraper).

My open question is now: the routing of the weatherstrip between the inner and the outer front fender. Originally the weatherstrip was starting about two inches above the side fin of the outer front fender. But the question in discussion with Emil rose the question why not up to the corner at the inner fender...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I almost cleaned the complete front suspension (steering link, lower control arms), a part of the propeller shaft tunnel and the floor area next to the tunnel...





(IMG_4522_the inner side of the hood is cleaned (insulator pad).JPG)



(IMG_4523_pass compartment floor no tar anymore.JPG)



(IMG_4526_drivers side foot area clean and no rust at all.JPG)



(IMG_4527_passenger side foot area clean and no rust at all.JPG)



(IMG_4528_inner fender to fender weatherstrip routing.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4522_the inner side of the hood is cleaned (insulator pad).JPG (487KB - 68 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4523_pass compartment floor no tar anymore.JPG (474KB - 65 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4526_drivers side foot area clean and no rust at all.JPG (469KB - 65 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4527_passenger side foot area clean and no rust at all.JPG (404KB - 67 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4528_inner fender to fender weatherstrip routing.JPG (315KB - 72 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2017-11-25 11:06 AM (#553102 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yesterday evening I cleaned the ball joint areas on both front suspensions plus some more around the propeller shaft tunnel area. I think I do not have to remove the color, just the tar...

About the area around the position light/direction light case I'm really unhappy, It's ways too big (visible from the back)...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4538 upper control arm LH.JPG)



(IMG_4541 lower control arm LH.JPG)



(IMG_4540 upper control arm RH.JPG)



(IMG_4542 lower control arm RH.JPG)



(IMG_4549 RH front light and position light installed.JPG)



(IMG_4543 RH fender front rear view - position light area is ways to big.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4538 upper control arm LH.JPG (288KB - 65 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4541 lower control arm LH.JPG (265KB - 56 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4540 upper control arm RH.JPG (267KB - 60 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4542 lower control arm RH.JPG (302KB - 57 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4549 RH front light and position light installed.JPG (240KB - 61 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4543 RH fender front rear view - position light area is ways to big.JPG (379KB - 66 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2017-12-16 10:01 AM (#554407 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Early this week I called the company that's restoring the engine of my Letter. The engine is at the cylinder grinder's shop since weeks, the first piston is out (I'm so happy). At the time of the phone call the ultra sonic probe was not working correctly (at least a recalibration should be necessary) so I have to call again, next week, to hear if the block is still useable and what the next steps are.

 

I'n the mean time I'm removing the tar layer at the undercarrigage and wheel housings.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2017-12-20 12:29 PM (#554711 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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News from the engine restorer's house:

The block succeeded the ultra sonic test. All cylinders have "enough meat" around. After my specific question I got the answer, that the cylinders have the original bore size, never ever shaved to an oversize step. From the impression of the good cylinder walls I think the engine didn't get much miles on it(no ultra high milage engine for sure).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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wizard
Posted 2017-12-20 1:46 PM (#554719 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Really good news Dieter! Another "fear factor" passed.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-12-20 3:41 PM (#554726 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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that floorpan is very nice.
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2017-12-21 4:37 PM (#554810 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Heres a tip for you Dieter. Drain hole, tube and hose. Trunk lid surround will never rot again



(WP_001586.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments WP_001586.jpg (217KB - 39 downloads)
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1960fury
Posted 2017-12-21 4:51 PM (#554811 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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properly painted metal does not rust. drilling holes in a panel to prevent holes? simply install the weatherstripping with polyurethane sealer (they leak from underneath) and you will never have a leaking trunk seal again.

and that hole can't prevent rust out of trunk edge if it isn't properly painted. its called capillarity. water seeps between the seal and the seal channel whether you drill a hole in the panel or not. and it will stay there for a long time. sealer is the only thing that can prevent that.

Edited by 1960fury 2017-12-21 4:59 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-02 1:50 PM (#555455 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Actually I didn't count the hours nor how many weekends I'm working at the removal of the tar layer. But today I finished the passenger side inside of the front fender. From what I saw during removing of the tar layer, my Letter is rock solid. I hope after a full day of work tomorrow the drivers side inner and outer fender are finished as well from my side. All this work I'm performing to prepare my Letter for sand blasting that will follow quite soon as well. ASAP after finishing the sand blasting (under carriage, front subframe, passenger room floor, trunk floor, outer skin) my Letter will be transported to a painting company... :).

Big thank you for all of your comments, Happy New Year!

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I do not do sand blasting myself...

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imopar380
Posted 2018-01-02 4:51 PM (#555466 - in reply to #555455)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Some of the original trunk lips had the drain holes and tubes installed, others didn't My early production US built 60 Chrysler has none. The Canadian built 60 DeSoto I used to own had them. Member Islander62 has a 1961 Canadian built Saratoga that has them. I've been told by another member that NONE of the USA built 1961 Chrysler or DeSotos had the drain holes. I have not put any drain holes in my own as the car is rarely out in the rain. The lip is well painted and the weatherstrip is solidly glued in so when the deck lid is shut it compounds the pressure of the rubber strip to stay sealed at the base. The design of this deck lid and lip is such a bad design that it can't help but rust out over the years if it stays wet, once the weatherstrip perishes / comes loose etc. then water gets under the rubber, sits and rusts the lip out. My own car was from the L.A. area and fortunately stayed dry for 50 years and has no rust issues at all.

Edited by imopar380 2018-01-02 5:05 PM
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wizard
Posted 2018-01-03 1:39 AM (#555507 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Keep on Dieter, keep on and soon your car will be painted. A total different situation with a clean nice empty body for to mount the cleaned and renovated parts back in.

My car is early production as well and did not have the recessions - since I drive a lot and also in rain, I noticed that the water always remained in the corners of the trunk lip, exactly where the most cars has a rust issue. I made tools for to make recessions and made my own stainless trunk drains, as the reproduced ones leaves much to wish for.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-06 1:54 PM (#555725 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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After hours spent to produce a template of the carrier of the quarter window weatherstrip (at the B pillar, seals the lower front end of the quarter window to the door opening) I decided to clean the kick up in the floor plan as well. Because it's a Letter car and not just a 0815 car. So you see that I'm not completely finished with removiing the under coating....

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4646_clean_the_kick_up_compltely.JPG)



(IMG_4647_clean_inner_fender_pass_side.JPG)



(IMG_4648_inner_fender_drivers_side_quite_clean.JPG)



(IMG_4649_wheel_house_drivers_side_needs_cleaning.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_4646_clean_the_kick_up_compltely.JPG (392KB - 38 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4647_clean_inner_fender_pass_side.JPG (405KB - 43 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4648_inner_fender_drivers_side_quite_clean.JPG (384KB - 42 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4649_wheel_house_drivers_side_needs_cleaning.JPG (429KB - 39 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-06 4:04 PM (#555731 - in reply to #555725)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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di_ch_NY56 - 2018-01-06 10:54 AM
....Because it's a Letter car and not just a 0815 car....


What is an 0815 car? The metalwork I see looks very good. And the fact that they let you work on it yourself as well means you picked a good shop.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-06 4:06 PM
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1960fury
Posted 2018-01-06 6:41 PM (#555748 - in reply to #555731)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Powerflite - 2018-01-06 4:04 PM

di_ch_NY56 - 2018-01-06 10:54 AM
....Because it's a Letter car and not just a 0815 car....


What is an 0815 car?


ha, theres no 08/15 fl car. 08/15 is german slang for average or "run of the mill". in use since the 1. WW since it was something about the MG 08/15. conflicting storys about how the MG 08/15 became a synonym for average but from what i heard it was the mediocre quality of the 08/15.

Edited by 1960fury 2018-01-06 6:52 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-07 1:28 AM (#555762 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yes I know, I was not addressing an FL car, but any car else - especially a very decent daily driver roller coaster.

Happy Restoring

Dieter

BTW: 0815 is used in Switzerland for facts and circumstancies that are very decent (below expectations and below average)

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-07 1:52 PM (#555784 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Today I cleaned the rest of the kick up of the floor panel from the trunk side and both quarter sheets up to the fins as long there was under coating. While cleaning all the debris I scrapped off I discovered one more rust issue. it makes me not very happy, but Emil said it will be repaired as well after the sheet metal repair man returns... (most probably early February).

It's a very uncommon place, but I do not wonder. it's a result of the big rust hole in the C pillar .

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4651_reinforcement below the lower rear window area drivers side view.JPG)



(IMG_4654_reinforcement below the lower rear window area middle.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_4651_reinforcement below the lower rear window area drivers side view.JPG (360KB - 41 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4654_reinforcement below the lower rear window area middle.JPG (419KB - 45 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2018-01-07 4:16 PM (#555798 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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That complete area never had any primer or paint from the factory, in fact, most of the cars have at least surface rust there.
Most probably, as you write, the leaking C-pillar poured in an exessive amount of water in the trunk over the years.

After that the damage is repaired and sand blasted, it's a very good idea to at least prime the sheetmetal.
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imopar380
Posted 2018-01-07 4:54 PM (#555801 - in reply to #555798)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I often wondered why they didn't prime or paint that area.... This is what mine looks like today, still original, and un-painted underneath the parcel shelf. I have thought about cleaning it up and priming it but....haven't done it yet.



(shelf_underside.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments shelf_underside.JPG (109KB - 43 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2018-01-08 12:53 AM (#555827 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I've never seen this area in such a good state Ian, I came to think of Eastwood DiamondClear Satin http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-diamond-satin-gloss-aerosol.html

for to keep the original look and for to protect for further surface rust
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-08 1:15 AM (#555830 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Hi Wizard and Ian

Big thank you for your comments over the whole timespan since I‘m the owner of my Letter. Big thank you to all forum members who put their comment into this thread as well.

FYI: it‘s not the only area with no (at least) primer... please look under the dashboard (structure of the body, when the dashboard is out), the reinforcement between the kick board and the outer shell of the body structure to mention just the surfaces in the extended passenger compartment.

I think it’s not convenient to paint there and needs ways more time than allowed at the assembly line.

In my case... I‘m going to wire brush all these areas. These are the only areas I‘ll use epoxy primer out of rattle cans. Prior to start assembling my Letter...

Happy Restoring

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-08 6:53 AM (#555838 - in reply to #555827)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Hi Sven

In the mean time this is one of my favorite movies at Youtube.. it shows and expains (for me) why a professional paint job like necessary at my Letter is that expensive. Even if a professional industrial painter told me last Saturday, that he never ever could bill all the hours he spent on a project. This is the reason I want to get a professional painter that treats a customer car like his own baby. Because I would like to get a laiser straight body like the red metallic 300F convertible is from Matts A.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw0ObOdWnRE

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-01-08 6:55 AM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-14 8:28 AM (#556198 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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From my restorer of the engine I'm getting back my engine fully painted. I could choose what color I want. So my decision fell to RAL 9005 semi gloss. The restorer mentioned orange, but this color is not time correct (but correct for e.g. a 426 HEMI).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-14 10:51 AM (#556203 - in reply to #555838)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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di_ch_NY56 - 2018-01-08 6:53 AM

Hi Sven

In the mean time this is one of my favorite movies at Youtube.. it shows and expains (for me) why a professional paint job like necessary at my Letter is that expensive. Even if a professional industrial painter told me last Saturday, that he never ever could bill all the hours he spent on a project. This is the reason I want to get a professional painter that treats a customer car like his own baby. Because I would like to get a laiser straight body like the red metallic 300F convertible is from Matts A.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lw0ObOdWnRE

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

this is essentially how i paint in my driveway/garage booth.  I try to stay away from trees :)  but its alot more work. Its near impossible to find someone who "cares" about your car, its not theirs and they are just making money :)  I tend not to believe any mechanic or painter who says they care about someone elses car :)   This is why i normally just do it myself.  Paint and body also that way i know its done right. 

The quotes you get from these guys also vary widely.  Some guy will quote 30k and another 12 and another 6k...   It often depends on how much work they have in the pipeline... alot of work, more expensive.?  maybe they shop it out to someone else.  Some people wait forever, some get blown off for over a year or 2.  It like getting a home repair estimate, same principle...  Guy looks at you and tries to figure out how much he can charge.  See's how you react, does he need a paycheck right now? 

 

 



Edited by mikes2nd 2018-01-14 10:56 AM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-14 11:19 AM (#556206 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks Mike

That‘s exactly the experience I get on my own as well. In my eyes the most time  consuming job is to straighten the body with filler. That step could repeat up to five times...

extension: I was just thinking about your words again and (consequently) of what I could do myself: the straightening and sanding of the body. The movie explains the step very good.

Take care,

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-01-14 11:29 AM
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-14 4:56 PM (#556228 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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One thing I disagree with on the video is that I like to epoxy prime/seal the bare metal before I apply any filler. If you apply the filler within a week or two from the time you prime it, it will stick to the primer without any trouble. Filler absorbs water so if your paint gets thin and water is able to get to the bondo (like with a scratch or chip) then you will have rust developing underneath the bondo. But if you seal it off under the bondo first, you won't have this potential problem. I also seal over the top of the filler too before final paint of course.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-14 11:17 PM (#556260 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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Me I follow directions which say bare metal correctly prepared(sand down to metal 36/40 and final scuff with at least 80). He is also following directions. I don't know who started this "bondo over sh*t is good" myth but its wrong.

Its impossible for water to get to the filler if you seal/primer/paint correctly. And once you get water in your bondo you are cooked, a simple coat of primer underneath isn't going to stop the bondo from absorbing water and rusting out, think about what you said, you just killed your own disagreement. You have water reaching your filler which is being absorbed... That is game over for your repair as the filler expands and no epoxy with constant water against it will last. It may be easier to peel the bondo off the car if you put epoxy underneath though to redo it.

There can also be reaction with the primer/other random crap under filler and the adhesion this is why its just better to avoid a nightmare.

The millions of formulas for primer from god knows where can react and screw with the filler(esp when applying the heat of the sun). I dont want some reaction later(which ive seen before) under the filler after youve painted.

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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-14 11:29 PM (#556261 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I won't clog up his thread with this, but if you would like to discuss it, you can PM me.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-14 11:32 PM
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-15 12:33 AM (#556262 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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nah ill stick with directions okay yeah back to the regular programming!

the problem with doing body work is it does take a lot of your time. Weigh the time vs the cost. Most quotes you get for paint jobs is nuts, like 100$ a hour nuts.

If your making 100$ an hour then I say go for it and have it done and avoid the hassle or if you have plenty of cash just outsource it. I like doing the work though on the car.

I like restoring more than driving them I think.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-18 3:43 AM (#556494 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Location: ZH, Switzerland

Today I wanted to do just a small service at the 6 way electric seat gear. But ?? I started at the wrong side and now this small subporject turned out into a complete disassemblage of the gear.

BTW: the gear was full of MoS2 grease, somebody apparently did anse vice not long ago, but forget to lube the bronce bushings of the shafts. I‘ll replace it with Molykote longterm W2.

Question: did anybody remove /mount the flex wires in the loooong tubes to the passenger side sleave gear?

Happy Restoration!

Dieter

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wizard
Posted 2018-01-18 4:28 AM (#556495 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yes Dieter, remove the tubes from master and slave units and pull out the cables, wash them and the tubes and apply new grease on them.
This should be easy work.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-01-19 9:28 AM (#556563 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Location: ZH, Switzerland

Today, after sand blasting and glass perl blasting I got my crossrams back and brought it directly to a superb painting company nearby. Especially the passenger side crossram shows a very heavy toll to the resting under a blue, woven plane in the S.F. bay for six years. To enhance the negative effect of the electrochemical voltage serie (aluminum is ignoble to cast iron, means: cast iron eats aluminum) there were loads of leaves on the intake system near the cylinder heads.

But I'll try to do the best to save my crossram... aluminum filler is necessary.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4670_crossram right hand side.JPG)



(IMG_xxxx_crossram right hand side Detail.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4670_crossram right hand side.JPG (409KB - 35 downloads)
Attachments IMG_xxxx_crossram right hand side Detail.jpg (429KB - 37 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-02-04 2:11 PM (#557501 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Posts: 1180
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Location: ZH, Switzerland

The seat frame is "restored" and the front seats in their actual state mounted. I guess it's easy to see why I want to get everything new above the jute fabric layer ontop of the spring layer. The seat frame and spring web shows almost no sign of rust .

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW (edit): what surprises me most is that at the lower part (not exposed to the intense sun light at the S.F. bay area) the leather cover is still soft. The butt area at the drivers seat earlier was "repaired" with transparent tape. That destroyed the rubber foam cushion as well



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-02-04 2:17 PM




(IMG_4691_front seats on seat frame.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4691_front seats on seat frame.JPG (465KB - 34 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-04 2:04 AM (#559173 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Posts: 1180
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Location: ZH, Switzerland

Yesterday I was at the shop for a very short time to discuss the further steps and to make sure that I gonna replace the ball joints myself. Why? at the shop they pressed out the old ball joints at the control arms of a 300H and pressed in the new ones. From Wizard I got a sunny clear warning not to press out and press in. So I got a appropriate Snap-On tool to perform that work myself.
Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4765_front suspension removed.JPG)



(IMG_4766_front suspension parts pile.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4765_front suspension removed.JPG (386KB - 35 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4766_front suspension parts pile.JPG (480KB - 33 downloads)
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1960fury
Posted 2018-03-04 10:02 AM (#559183 - in reply to #559173)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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di_ch_NY56 - 2018-03-04 2:04 AM

Yesterday I was at the shop for a very short time to discuss the further steps and to make sure that I gonna replace the ball joints myself. Why? at the shop they pressed out the old ball joints at the control arms of a 300H and pressed in the new ones. From Wizard I got a sunny clear warning not to press out and press in. So I got a appropriate Snap-On tool to perform that work myself.
Happy Restoring!

Dieter


_______

Wow.... my suggestion is steer clear of that shop completly. the threads are visible also the large square head. how can anyone with more than 3 brain cells try to PRESS them out? again, avoid these "mechanics".
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-03-04 10:17 AM (#559184 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Those threads on the control arms will strip out pretty easily so never use an impact air tool to install the ball joints. But you can use an impact air tool to remove them if they are too difficult to get out by hand.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-04 1:22 PM (#559195 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Posts: 1180
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Thanks a lot for your answers. Yes, that's the reason I'm going to remove and install the ball joints myself, following the FSM strictly (by the way, the 1960 and 1962 are indentical in the description of the removal/install of the ball joints). The same is valid for the pinion seal as well.

Today I was cleaning the upper side and the lower side of the front subframe (where the control arms and idler arm of the steering linkage were mounted). Beside I was cleaning the control arms and steering knuckels from tar and dirt to get them ready to sand blast.

I decided to get rid of the additional spring package at the rear springs. From what I saw (when my Letter was in the state prior to the disassembling process) the rear was parallel to the front and not sinking down. Edit: I'll keep the canvas interliner in the rear springs. Gary Goers shows interliner made out of polyurethane, but that's not the same like the original canvas interliner.

Body: the shop asked me, if I got the rubber between the radiator yoke and the front sub frame. Where to get em? I just could buy some 2 3/16" (around 3 cm) rubber patches to cut it myself - if there is no suplier.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4770_rear axle almost free from dirt and grime.JPG)



(IMG_4771_rear spring with no additional spring package.JPG)



(IMG_4772_the sand blasting sand - quite fine.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4770_rear axle almost free from dirt and grime.JPG (406KB - 35 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4771_rear spring with no additional spring package.JPG (285KB - 34 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4772_the sand blasting sand - quite fine.JPG (465KB - 31 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-11 8:36 AM (#559631 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Location: ZH, Switzerland

All the sheet metal of the front of the windshield is primered now. About 50% of the small parts are primered as well. The primer is a very nasty stuff, the same primer is used to prime the locomotives and waggons of the Swiss railway. I heard that the parts pile must be big enough to be worth to mix up the primer (it's very labor intensive). I hope this primer is bomb resistant and ways higher quality than that usually used for cars.

The body worker will start to finish the resting issues. The passenger side fender revealed some more to do work (filler removed) due to the accident my Letter had in its earlier live.

At least I know now as well where my Letter will go to get the finishing paint. I still aiming an Alaskan White color or as close as possible (e.g. Mercedes Benz Classic White is ways too yellowish, while contemporary white is ways too bright).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Edit: What is that color at the sub frame (I assume Gun metallic)? The drivers side front fender is laying on the roof of a 1961 NY 4d HT, the rear window is still missing - must not be a new one, but I beg to get one rear  window for the owner of the shop



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-03-11 8:39 AM




(IMG_4768_sub frame removing resting protection layer.JPG)



(IMG_4769 primer or color of the sub frame.JPG)



(IMG_4776 passenger side front fender.JPG)



(IMG_4778_parts pile already primered.JPG)



(IMG_4779_drivers side fender.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4768_sub frame removing resting protection layer.JPG (484KB - 32 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4769 primer or color of the sub frame.JPG (492KB - 31 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4776 passenger side front fender.JPG (401KB - 30 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4778_parts pile already primered.JPG (353KB - 35 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4779_drivers side fender.JPG (404KB - 34 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2018-03-11 12:47 PM (#559663 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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It must feel good to finally see the parts primed - it gives a notice that the hard part of the restauration is soon over.

Keep us posted Dieter!
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-11 1:37 PM (#559675 - in reply to #559663)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Posts: 1180
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Location: ZH, Switzerland

wizard - 2018-03-10 6:47 PM It must feel good to finally see the parts primed - it gives a notice that the hard part of the restauration is soon over. Keep us posted Dieter!

Yes, I'm happy.

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-18 4:03 AM (#560089 - in reply to #559675)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Posts: 1180
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Location: ZH, Switzerland

Yesterday I was working for uncounted hours at the underside of my Letter to remove some too thick resting tar to allow the further sand blasting process.

I removed as much of the sealant in front of the doors as well.

As well I met the body worker at the shop to explain the mounting and position of the drains. He catched the idea and spoke from drains as well. In the passing week he started wirh the replacement of the trunk floor. At the shop they discovered, that the drivers side spring shackle mounting box was crushed; they removed it, straighed it and mountd it again.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

 

 

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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-03-18 10:38 AM (#560101 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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Posts: 3036
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https://www.muggyweld.com/products/

super alloy 5 goes to 600 degrees, super allow 1 is 350... not sure if an intake would even see 350. Wonder about the heat transfer in that are to the foot you are repairing.

this stuff works.
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Beltran
Posted 2018-03-18 5:37 PM (#560114 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Dieter.
Are you powder coating any of the parts? I found it to be extremely tough and does a great job of sealing the metal from the elements.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-19 1:33 PM (#560155 - in reply to #560114)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Posts: 1180
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Location: ZH, Switzerland

No, I guess none of the gloss black parts are power coated, but the color did dry very slow.

I talked to the shop owner to get the underside of the body satin black. I assuem 2k colors.

 

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

 TW: edited some typing errors; due to the use of my phone, the computer is donw and needs a reinstall of Windows 10.



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-03-19 1:35 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-25 2:12 PM (#560464 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Posts: 1180
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Location: ZH, Switzerland

I decided to get the underside charcoal black, satin. In the meantime (since my computer was down) a lot has happened. This Sunday after I got a big surprise, I started with wire brushing small parts for the subframe and front suspension.

The big surprise you'll see at the photo collection following. The primer is Etokat (normally used for trains as well)

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4787_parts pile 1.JPG)



(IMG_4788_parts pile 2.JPG)



(IMG_4798_sign on differential 3.15.JPG)



(IMG_4799_sub frame colored.JPG)



(IMG_4809_firewall and front foot area.JPG)



(IMG_4810_passenger side three quart view to the rear.JPG)



(IMG_4811_drivers side three quart view to the rear.JPG)



(IMG_4812_undercarriage from the rear (trunk).JPG)



(IMG_4816_rain drain passenger side.JPG)



(IMG_4817_rain drain drivers side.JPG)



(IMG_4818_parcel shelf.JPG)



(IMG_4819_parecel shelf and roof.JPG)



(IMG_4821_cowl and front foot area.JPG)



(IMG_4822_roof inside.JPG)



(IMG_4825_supension parts cleaned.JPG)



(IMG_4826_suspension parts waiting to be brushed.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4787_parts pile 1.JPG (379KB - 29 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4788_parts pile 2.JPG (315KB - 31 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4798_sign on differential 3.15.JPG (455KB - 29 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4799_sub frame colored.JPG (387KB - 30 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4809_firewall and front foot area.JPG (334KB - 29 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4810_passenger side three quart view to the rear.JPG (263KB - 30 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4811_drivers side three quart view to the rear.JPG (264KB - 32 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4812_undercarriage from the rear (trunk).JPG (318KB - 31 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4816_rain drain passenger side.JPG (271KB - 34 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4817_rain drain drivers side.JPG (334KB - 32 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4818_parcel shelf.JPG (345KB - 32 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4819_parecel shelf and roof.JPG (315KB - 31 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4821_cowl and front foot area.JPG (378KB - 33 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4822_roof inside.JPG (291KB - 32 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4825_supension parts cleaned.JPG (375KB - 33 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4826_suspension parts waiting to be brushed.JPG (331KB - 29 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2018-03-25 3:56 PM (#560466 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Wow, there's been a lot of good progress Dieter! So big difference in comparision with when you got the car!
Very wise to put primer on the inside of the body also!

This is a big step in the restauration
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hemidenis
Posted 2018-03-25 6:55 PM (#560476 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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beautiful work!!
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2018-03-26 5:44 AM (#560495 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Nice progress Dieter. Do not forget to weld tubes under the drain holes at trunk edge.
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