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another 1960 Chrysler appeared
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-26 1:25 PM (#560516 - in reply to #560495)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Adventurer 60 - 2018-03-25 11:44 AM Nice progress Dieter. Do not forget to weld tubes under the drain holes at trunk edge.

Hi Jari
Thanks a lot. Look, the recession are made at Wizard's. Thanks to Wizard I got the mounting hardware. My plan is the same like Wizards to connect tubes at the mounting hardware and route it through the large plastic cups on each side of the filler neck in the floor of the trunk.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Adventurer 60
Posted 2018-03-26 3:07 PM (#560525 - in reply to #560516)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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di_ch_NY56 - 2018-03-26 1:25 PM

Adventurer 60 - 2018-03-25 11:44 AM Nice progress Dieter. Do not forget to weld tubes under the drain holes at trunk edge.

Hi Jari
Thanks a lot. Look, the recession are made at Wizard's. Thanks to Wizard I got the mounting hardware. My plan is the same like Wizards to connect tubes at the mounting hardware and route it through the large plastic cups on each side of the filler neck in the floor of the trunk.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Sound good!
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-30 12:10 PM (#560744 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks Jari

Today I cleaned all the resting bolts, washers and hex nuts for the subframe and front suspension. The screws, washers and (eventually) hex nuts are still waiting.

In the meantime the body got the final layer and color. The shop applied two layers, because the primer is almost white. Now the underside looks wonderful, the color is charcoal. I guess I'm going to inform the shop, that the final layer of color will be applied to the body with the front end mounted. This is ways better than from the factory (because really all body parts at least got a layer of primer, no blind spots like from the factory...) , but not as perfect as a Jan Fridberg restoration and Christers painting shop.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4833_final color from the rear.JPG)



(IMG_4837 final color three quart front view.JPG)



(IMG_4835_hood and decklid are waiting.JPG)



(IMG_4836_rear axle ready to mount.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4833_final color from the rear.JPG (339KB - 464 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4837 final color three quart front view.JPG (335KB - 484 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4835_hood and decklid are waiting.JPG (277KB - 473 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4836_rear axle ready to mount.JPG (271KB - 467 downloads)
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1960fury
Posted 2018-03-30 12:38 PM (#560747 - in reply to #560744)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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the unibodys were dipped (not complete) in primer and baked in ovens, so theoretically primer blind spots in the lower parts are not possible. that factoy backed on primer is almost like galvanized.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-31 2:05 AM (#560806 - in reply to #560747)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yes,

But most of us discovered bare metal areas (roof inside, under the parcel shelf, both sides at the firewall, covered by the inner and outer fender and more). I‘m leaving that discussion to put a question about the rear axle of my Letter....

Stamped in at the differential carrier is 3.15. That indicates a 3.15 differential ratio. At the fragment of the broadcast sheet I only could discover „ratio“ and the code is 523. I read it multiple to make sure that I didn‘t do a misread. Is the 3.15 axle that came from the factory or was it another, according the broadcast sheet?

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

corrected... 523, not 529



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-03-31 1:47 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-03-31 3:04 PM (#560838 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This week I had a big fortune to find an appropriate rubber rope to build a gasket (weatherstrip) between the bezel and the glass of the tachometer mounted in the center console. Ways earlier on I catched a tachometer at epain for a good price (because the pointer fell off and some rust issues at the bezel).

I managed to mount the pointer again and good luck - it lights up as the scale does. I did a service and the input shaft rotates again. Now I cleaned the bezel, applied filler primer (I guess I need several layers to compensate the marks of the rust eating...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: the matt black originally applied at the bezel is not water resistant....



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-03-31 3:08 PM




(IMG_4839_second tach bezel.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4839_second tach bezel.JPG (367KB - 529 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-04-01 12:21 PM (#560884 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Today we mounted the subframe, the front suspension /w the steering gear and the rear axle back to my Letter.

First we wanted to mount the dustshields and steering arm, but - a quiz - why are the screws too long now? A sunny idea and bang -- the brake mouning plate is not in place. So we chatched em and finished the front suspension, with one exception... the upper rubber at the stabilizer holders is still missing (in my second order this year for Gary Goers).

The rear axle is back in place as well. After we got out, that the National 7216 pinion seal doesn't fit (outside diameter) we searched another one... SKF 18708. I figured out that the rear axle of my Letter is a 8.25 Plymouth axle and not the factory Chrysler 8.75 rear axle.

Happy Restoring! (always some surprises)

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-04-01 2:58 PM




(IMG_4844_differential of my Letter.JPG)



(IMG_4846_front brake shield mounted.JPG)



(IMG_4847_frame and front suspension almost finished.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4844_differential of my Letter.JPG (490KB - 487 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4846_front brake shield mounted.JPG (323KB - 481 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4847_frame and front suspension almost finished.JPG (246KB - 488 downloads)
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Beltran
Posted 2018-04-01 5:40 PM (#560900 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Looking good Dieter
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-04-04 5:49 AM (#561123 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks a lot to all.

Now just th the super gau has happened. E.G. the screws from the radiator yoke to the inner fenders, the screws ontop of the fenders near the windshield frame hve gone.

Source? 

 

Thanks a lot

Dieter

 

Edit: please pm me, thank you very much



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-04-04 1:04 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-04-07 2:47 AM (#561240 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Evidence of the work last weekend... almost finished at the assembly (rolling body). At the last picture of that weekend you'll discover the shop owner.

You might notice that not all screws at the radiator yoke and front fenders to the inner fender are mounted... missing! (you could claim, you're self responsible because you didn't disassemble and assemble everything yourself).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4848_front suspension mouted from the bottom.JPG)



(IMG_4850_a 1960 Plymouth__border of the factory primer bath clearly visible.JPG)



(IMG_4851_front suspension mounted from the top.JPG)



(IMG_4852_trunk lid mounted adjusted by myself.JPG)



(IMG_4853_overview of my Letter.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4848_front suspension mouted from the bottom.JPG (437KB - 468 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4850_a 1960 Plymouth__border of the factory primer bath clearly visible.JPG (271KB - 546 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4851_front suspension mounted from the top.JPG (422KB - 481 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4852_trunk lid mounted adjusted by myself.JPG (416KB - 465 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4853_overview of my Letter.JPG (355KB - 474 downloads)
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60Mopars
Posted 2018-04-07 4:34 AM (#561243 - in reply to #561240)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Impressive work you are doing! Soon you can take your F on a trip to Sweden

Jan in Sweden

Edited by 60Mopars 2018-04-07 4:37 AM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-04-07 1:40 PM (#561253 - in reply to #561243)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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60Mopars - 2018-04-06 10:34 AM Impressive work you are doing! Soon you can take your F on a trip to Sweden Jan in Sweden

A trip to Sweden is on my wish list for sure. But I affraid, for sure not next year. Today I had the first talk with one guy about the final painting. The painting company is run by two brothers. Personally I think I could be happy if I could drive my Letter the first time within five years.

Actually I didn't get an update from the engine restoring company. The last information was, that all pistons now are out (the piston #1 had to be broken in parts prior to remove it), the rotating assembly and other parts are ordered.

Bigger parts missing

- the windshield, the gas tank, the brake lines, the gutter rails (not necessary to drive, but to finisth the Letter) and the door to quarter panel fillers (two on each side, one at the door, one at the quarter panel). In the meantime I was able to catch a straight rear bumer (:-).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-04-08 10:34 AM (#561273 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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One more thou about my Letter....

For sure I could buy a complete interior, but without new rubber foam seat cushions (preferred from Gray Goers shop - no clues who ever will run his business...) it makes no sense to mount the new seat covers.  But as long as I do not get my second order, I‘m not willing to spend more money to Gary Goers shop....

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-04-30 6:28 AM (#562516 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Over the weekend I sanded the bezel of the second tachometer twice or three times with applying one more layer of filler out of a rattle can to straighten the bumps out of the bezel. This early morning I applied Rally black (mat black) and assembled it later this morning. Fortunately I found a rubber rope to fit between the chromed ring and the lens glass.

Final check and photo...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4941_tachometer assembled and illuminated.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4941_tachometer assembled and illuminated.JPG (195KB - 532 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-05-11 10:16 AM (#563136 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Easy to see, after the starter motor I brushed the cooling fan a second time. This time with the drilling machine and two different shapes of wire brushes. But I assume I have to use emerald paper as well.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4956_cooling fan front.JPG)



(IMG_4957_cooling fan back.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4956_cooling fan front.JPG (447KB - 469 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4957_cooling fan back.JPG (422KB - 452 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-05-21 12:06 PM (#563761 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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In the meantime I purchased a complete 8 3/4" rear end (out of a 1960 Windsor) from Big M to replace the 6 cylinder 1960 Dodge 8 1/4" rear axle. The 8 1/4" rear axle I hope I could sell after I got and installed the rear axle from Big M.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-06-03 9:44 AM (#564461 - in reply to #560884)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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di_ch_NY56 - 2018-03-31 6:21 PM

Today we mounted the subframe, the front suspension /w the steering gear and the rear axle back to my Letter.

First we wanted to mount the dustshields and steering arm, but - a quiz - why are the screws too long now? A sunny idea and bang -- the brake mouning plate is not in place. So we chatched em and finished the front suspension, with one exception... the upper rubber at the stabilizer holders is still missing (in my second order this year for Gary Goers).

The rear axle is back in place as well. After we got out, that the National 7216 pinion seal doesn't fit (outside diameter) we searched another one... SKF 18708. I figured out that the rear axle of my Letter is a 8.25 Plymouth axle and not the factory Chrysler 8.75 rear axle.

Happy Restoring! (always some surprises)

Dieter

I'm sorry and I realized that I was wrong with the judgement of the rear axle. The number on the side of the differential carrier shows 1820 657. According to many people here and my check again it's not a 8 1/4" rear end, but a small stem 8 3/4" rear axle. No wonder a Swedish friend wrote to me, I made a big mess with the axles and parts of the axle....

So the only work to perform at this axle is to exchange the axle shaft seals, the axle shaft bearings, shorten the axle shafts 1/8" to install the 742 differential carrier I purchased (/w a limited slip differential inside). To replace the axle shaft seals and axle shaft bearings is necessary, because at the shop the axle has been sand blasted.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Powerflite
Posted 2018-06-03 9:56 AM (#564463 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Shortening the axles 1/8" is required only if your rear end originally had an open gear set. If it originally had limited slip, you don't need to shorten the axles because they would be the correct length already. Also, if you do end up needing to shorten the axles, go slow and test fit them with the available shims that you have to adjust the play. If you go too far, you may end up needing to fabricate more shims.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-06-03 9:58 AM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-06-05 2:11 PM (#564604 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks a lot for your answer. Do you know, the 657/741 differential carrier was available with the Posi Traction option as well.

In my opinion most were open carriers.

When I have to shorten the axle shafts I'll bring it to a mechanical shop and will specify the shortening 1/8" (3.175 mm -0 mm, +0.05 mm); means between excatly 1/8" and 0.127" shorter (the result will be a little bit shorter; a bias to remove shims instead of adding shims).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: are the axle shafts mild steel to use a file?



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-06-05 2:15 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-06-17 9:07 AM (#565248 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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While sweeping through the picture collection I made, one particular picture catched my attraction. It shows older damages revealed during the sand blasting. No wonder why the body worker/painter shop estimated so many hours to straighten the contour of the body... End of June or early July my Letter should go to the body/painter shop (the body/painer shop got my agreement).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_4815_older accdent damages revealed.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4815_older accdent damages revealed.JPG (247KB - 447 downloads)
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2018-06-18 1:38 AM (#565276 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yes, thas gonna take some time to straighten it up. Would be done finished with bondo in less than hour or two

remaind your body guy to fix door corner, to make it more round. It is over doing but looks much nicer when the whole car is finished.
I even fixed the whole shape of the doors in my G project, you can check my project posts how it got
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-06-23 5:54 AM (#565487 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks a lot for your hin Jari. I hope I don't forget it to mention.

This morning I visited the shop to visit the owner. He invited me for a small journey with him in his 60 NY 4d HT rat rod (/w a 383 engine). After refilling the gas tank I could drive his NY. It's a wonderful experience to ride a '60 Chrysler.

After leaving him I attended to the body and painting shop (the owner told me he transportet my Letter Friday evening to the body and painting shop - good luck, the night was dry).

At the body and painting shop I met the body smith. He just said, that the condition of my Letter is not bad. Could be a faster fixing and adjusting than excpeted. We'll see the result...

For your enjoyment some more picures of my Letter.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_5078_view from the back.JPG)



(IMG_5079_view from the back - birds view.JPG)



(IMG_5081_view to the front.JPG)



(IMG_5082_RH lower rear corner.JPG)



(IMG_5083_LH lower rear corner.JPG)



(IMG_5084_three quart RH rear view.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_5078_view from the back.JPG (464KB - 448 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5079_view from the back - birds view.JPG (339KB - 466 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5081_view to the front.JPG (462KB - 446 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5082_RH lower rear corner.JPG (436KB - 439 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5083_LH lower rear corner.JPG (237KB - 431 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5084_three quart RH rear view.JPG (359KB - 448 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-06-27 2:03 PM (#565715 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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A sidemark to the rear end of my Letter...

Nobody at the shop noticed that the drivers side rear fender is mounted about 1 cm (about 3/8") forward compared to the passenger side (yes, they noticed (after sand blasting) that the drivers side rear fender once was replaced). I always was courios why the wetherstrip channel at the drivers side is about 1 cm (about 3/8") less wide than at the passenger side - the inner end to the trunk is correct. I checked the distance between the end of the door opening and the start of the wheel well (bow) for the rear wheel after my Letter was primered on both sides.

It's sunny clear now...

The drivers side rear fender was replaced after an accident, but without straightening the reinforcement bow under the trunk floor prior....

Will see what I can do at the painter and body shop (two brothers). Next Saturday I'll bring all lamps to them.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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Adventurer 60
Posted 2018-06-30 8:24 AM (#565824 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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You are in chritical stage now for the final result and appearance when the car is finished. Now it is important to adjust every single cap in hood, trunk lid and doors before car goes to paint booth.
An it is hard adjusting meaning cutting, grinding and welding. It is only way to do it right now. Make holes to fit their lids. Investing time and money now for it pays back later.
We had to remember that quality in 60's automobile industry was awful. cap tolerance was from 3 mm ti 12 mm in same panel, even there if was no collison history! Comparing 90;s Audies or BMWs wich had exact 4 mm cap in every lid regular Chrysler product quality looks bad.
I've seen many restored and "over done" forwarlookers in car events in Sweden, and they look like million dollar cars compared the ones that has not been "hard way adjusted caps".
Sure I admit it is over doing but if the car looks better than what is was when it left the factory...
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-07-01 9:51 AM (#565850 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Hi Jari

At some points you‘re absolutely right. I don‘t complain about bigger gaps nor some more imperfections. But when I compare the pictures /w measurements for the drain holes I got, I noticed that the trunk lid weatherstrip channel should be within a fraction of a millimeter (for a 1960 Chrysler with no collision history) and not with a difference of 5 to 10 millimeters from the RH side (7 cm like in the pictures) to the LH side (about 6 cm to 6.5 cm).

So I said to the shop, estimate the position for to mount the recessions for the drain nipples. Because the measurements I got were not applicable at my Letter as it is right now.

Happy Restoring!

BTW: when I got my Letter, at the LH side I had too manies holes for the side trim (e.g. two upper and two lower holes for the F emblem). The LH side emblem is looking like new (bright colors, not mounted at the Letter for uncoutable years).

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1960fury
Posted 2018-07-01 11:07 AM (#565853 - in reply to #565824)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Adventurer 60 - 2018-06-30 8:24 AM


We had to remember that quality in 60's automobile industry was awful. cap tolerance was from 3 mm ti 12 mm in same panel,


Nonsense. You are mixing up things. The drivetrains outlasts any new power plant. The assembly quality of BODY panels wasn't as good but 12mm is BS.

Maybe new car manufacturers could learn from 1960 Mopars like how to produce seals that last 58+ years.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-07-01 1:22 PM (#565855 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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From what I saw... Mopars of our decade were ways better and more accurate assembled than any competitor (GM and FoMoCo).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-07-01 2:00 PM
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2018-07-03 10:34 AM (#565938 - in reply to #565853)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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1960fury - 2018-07-01 11:07 AM

Adventurer 60 - 2018-06-30 8:24 AM


We had to remember that quality in 60's automobile industry was awful. cap tolerance was from 3 mm ti 12 mm in same panel,


Nonsense. You are mixing up things. The drivetrains outlasts any new power plant. The assembly quality of BODY panels wasn't as good but 12mm is BS.

Maybe new car manufacturers could learn from 1960 Mopars like how to produce seals that last 58+ years.


Ok I gotta be bulls**ter then, you tell how much the tolerance was. Not sure about half inch neither but I have seen trunk lids in fwrl-cars where you can almost put your fingers thru.
Friend of mine collected 59 Plymouth/Kingsway/Diplomat doors for his rusty project in early 80's he had several left rear doors and noticed they were not same size,
difference was more than 5 mm in lenght. Those doors apparently were from different assembly plants and pressed not by same tools, but anyway they were designed to be same size.
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wizard
Posted 2018-07-03 3:24 PM (#565963 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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It's all in the documentation and you're not far off Jari, the stackup was roundabout 3/8" (9,61mm). http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/150/150cover.htm

Stackup means the accumulated tolerances on a panel or several panels.
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1960fury
Posted 2018-07-03 6:32 PM (#565998 - in reply to #565963)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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wizard - 2018-07-03 3:24 PM

It's all in the documentation and you're not far off Jari, the stackup was roundabout 3/8" (9,61mm). http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/150/150cover.htm

Stackup means the accumulated tolerances on a panel or several panels.


Totally far off as 3/8 "stackup" is not 12mm (1/2") in (quote) "one panel".
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2018-07-04 5:25 PM (#566033 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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12 - 9,61 = 2,39 Yes I made about 20% error, I'm so sorry but both figures are too big. Perhaps the first owner never made a reclamation on those cars I've seen.
If you see 59 Dodge with trunk lid sitting ok - it has visited Jan Fridbergs body shop.
Try to sell new car these days with stackup that big (9,61 mm) no one would buy car like that, no one! That time was in the 70's when they made Escorts and Vauxhalls in England. Even russians made better with Moskwitsh and Lada.
Thats what i am talking about.


Edited by Adventurer 60 2018-07-04 5:28 PM
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1960fury
Posted 2018-07-04 5:55 PM (#566034 - in reply to #566033)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Adventurer 60 - 2018-07-04 5:25 PM

12 - 9,61 = 2,39 Yes I made about 20% error, I'm so sorry but both figures are too big. Perhaps the first owner never made a reclamation on those cars I've seen.
If you see 59 Dodge with trunk lid sitting ok - it has visited Jan Fridbergs body shop.
Try to sell new car these days with stackup that big (9,61 mm) no one would buy car like that, no one! That time was in the 70's when they made Escorts and Vauxhalls in England. Even russians made better with Moskwitsh and Lada.
Thats what i am talking about.


Again, the 3/8" is "stackup", you claimed 1/2" in ONE panel, that is BS, and what people want today is obviously different from way back when. I could male a list of things but it would be deleted by the "Mods".
At least you seem to be happy now, today, in this soooo smart and superior society, you can buy one of these superior cars that will last waaaay longer than those inferior, bad quality FL-cars (that are still around after 60 years) because of their perfect door gaps.

Edited by 1960fury 2018-07-04 5:58 PM
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Adventurer 60
Posted 2018-07-05 4:36 AM (#566045 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I said 3 mm to 12 mm (what I have measured) I also said I'm sorry my mistake (i do not check manuals every time). Get over it now! besides I do not undestand why you have to be so offensive anyway about 2.39 millimiters.
Just wanted to give Dieter a tip becouse I have been thru same situation many times with my 60 and 61 Chrysler projects. I have gotten good tips at this forum and I dont judge are absolutely correct or not or just opinions. Dieter also replied that he don't care about bigger caps or more imperfections. Thats OK, you dont need to correct or customize things what factory has done.

I currenly own 4 FL cars, I have owned over ten of them along about other 20 old american cars during last 37 years. Some cars go some cars stay.
Yes I am very satisfied with my forward lookers and know from what they are made of. I have guts to be critical too. I don't live in 60's. I always got relatively new car provided by my employer so I also know what they are. I use them first 4-5 years or 150Kkm, thats it. But I never would choose a car that looks and feels crappy when its new.

End of discussion about this topic for me.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-07-05 1:39 PM (#566064 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Just to clarify what tortures or annoys me most is underlined with red bars in one picuture I took recently. About door gaps, hood gaps or deck lid gaps I'm quite tolerant. Of course it's possible to adjust the gaps equally around the perimeter.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_5079_view from the back - birds view red - what tortures me most.jpg)



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Attachments IMG_5079_view from the back - birds view red - what tortures me most.jpg (348KB - 420 downloads)
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1960fury
Posted 2018-07-05 6:15 PM (#566074 - in reply to #566045)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Adventurer 60 - 2018-07-05 4:36 AM

I besides I do not undestand why you have to be so offensive anyway


This wasn't your first post. I have a good memory on some things. I could elaborate on that, but I'm not in the mood. It hits my nerve if certain people call these fine cars crap or poor quality cars. Nothing could be further from the truth.
I'm certainly happy that people back in the day bought these cars that (quote) "looked and felt crappy when new".
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-07-08 2:40 AM (#566255 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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On Saturday I was in the shop (body and paint) again to do some further measurements. Good news is, that my Letter is in the shop now.

Results:

The measurements differ about 1 cm ( ~ 3/8") ontop of the fin (B pillar to the end of the fin) - drivers side shorter. The hight of the B pillar (quarter panel at the end of the door opening) is about 1 cm (~3/8") higher at the drivers side than at the passenger side. If the hight of both doors is (almost) equal, it's impossible to match the upper end of the drivers door to the B pillar and keep the gap around the perimeter of the door equal. I was standing near the drivers side rear wheel and was thinking about consequences (or where to set the cut) of shifting the rear fender about 1 cm (~ 3/8") backwards (because it depends on where to cut the fender out - it seems the LH corner closer to the rear window of the trunk opening would move too). And if the hight of the door opening would lower as well...

During my visit I had the chance to talk to the body worker at this shop again. I introduced him the hint of Jari (small bow at the lower rear end of the door to match the rounding of the body).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2018-07-08 2:42 AM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-12-03 10:26 AM (#574555 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Last Saturday I brought my Bahco tool case with some English sockets plus my model 300F (convertible) to the body and painting shop. The next steps are adjusting all moving parts (doors, trunk lid, hood) prior to disassemble it. They‘ll start soon.

A big issue of the painter is to catch the correct color. Alaskian White is a kind of white with a shade of cream in it I assume.

 

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

 

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58coupe
Posted 2018-12-03 10:59 AM (#574556 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Just to clarify, I believe that the 657 carrier with the 1 3/8 pinion was not available with limited slip. The 742 or its early equivalent with the 1 3/4 pinion was used with limited slip. Not sure, it may be possible to install limited slip in the 657 case.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2018-12-18 4:51 AM (#575420 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Because I was at the truck for nothing I decided to visit the body and painting shop. Still the yellow 02 Bimmer is in the shop.

From the professional body worker I got the information that he‘ll start the work perfoming on my Letter on January 1st. That‘s good luck I said I could assist because I‘ll take my complete holiday as a piece during winter season.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-01-26 10:59 AM (#577404 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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As the first step, the painter (and boss of the company), the apprentice (painter/body worker) and me removed the hood. it seems the work started at my Letter.

We did a walk around and the painter notified me, that the trunk lid overlaps at the rear, left hand side. We'll discuss with the body worker (not present at my meeting) what the best solution will be to get the correct shape between the filler recession and the drivers door. Visible is that the gap between the trunk lid and the left hand side rear fender is not equal over the full lenght. But it's only visible, when the trunk lid is fully closed.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-01-26 11:04 AM




(IMG_5558_hood removed.JPG)



(IMG_5559_trunk lid to left hand rear fender.JPG)



(IMG_5560_trunk lid overlaps rear end left hand side.JPG)



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Attachments IMG_5558_hood removed.JPG (408KB - 365 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5559_trunk lid to left hand rear fender.JPG (234KB - 355 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5560_trunk lid overlaps rear end left hand side.JPG (295KB - 370 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-02-02 12:38 PM (#577728 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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With the help of the body worker and the painter (shop manager as well) we measured the distance between the end of the door opening to the end of the fin again. The result is that the difference ontop of the body line (upper end of door opening to top end of fin) 115.75 inch (294 cm). The distance at the passenger side is slightly longer 115.90 inch (294.4 cm). The difference is less than 3/16 inch, quite close to 1/8 inch (4 mm). I guess this is within the factory specification.

The front end between the front fenders is fully disassembled to work on. The gap between the inner structure and the shell of the hood is filled with styrofoam to support the shell (keep it stable). I'll cut out the isolation mat to fit it between the diagonal beams of the inner structure as it was. With the isolation map the styrofoam it not visible anymore.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: my Letter has changed the place. It rests actually where the sports car was parked during the time I took the picture.



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-02-02 12:41 PM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-02-26 1:43 PM (#578662 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Since at least two weeks, the body parts at the front end are disassembled. Today the apprentice started to prepare the parts for the paint system. But shortly he stopped and showed the parts to his boss, the painter and chairman of the shop. I got a short message to call back. The painter explained that these parts never evers saw sand blasting sand. They have heavy surface rust. I agreed to bring the parts to an industrial paint stripper company (the company who blasted the whole 02 bimmer). We were talking about the rest of the body... just my idea (without discussing with the painter)... if the body would show the same signes I have to pull the emergency cord. That means I'm going to crush the whole project, all parts included.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_5587_body front end disassembled.JPG)



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Attachments IMG_5587_body front end disassembled.JPG (328KB - 356 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2019-02-26 3:32 PM (#578669 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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It's tragical that the first "body-shop" obviously took some short-cuts Dieter, didn't you inspect the parts after the sand blasting?


You cannot stop this Project now - it will only hurt more as a torn down car has much lower value.


Just stay calm and take one step at the time.
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57burb
Posted 2019-02-26 4:33 PM (#578671 - in reply to #578669)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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That is frustrating. If there are serious problems with the body, maybe another (nice and solid) shell from the US can be found and shipped over? No one wants to see the project stop now! Especially you, I'm sure.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-02-27 1:35 PM (#578688 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks for your words...

Today I visited the shop again to take some pictures. About the battery tray I shouldn't say much - it's a courtesy of the shop owner (in exchange to my much worse battery tray).

At the picture serie are two pictures of the resting outer fender (at the body) to the front subframe. In my opinion the distance should be the same. But it isn't. At the drivers side the distance is almost two fingers, while at the passenge side the same distance (lower end of the outer fender to the front sub frame) is almost one finger (to squezze through).

Is there a way forseen to adjust the sub frame to the body (shims) or (I hope not) is the front sub frame diagonally bent?

Dieter

BTW the colored areas is a part of the paint system. I was present at the sandblasting of the underside of the body partially. Shortly after finishing the sandblasting the primer was applied. Next time I saw my Letter it was covered with primer.



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-02-27 1:40 PM




(IMG_5642_rust after the slight grinding with sandpaper 1.JPG)



(IMG_5643_rust after the slight grinding with sandpaper 2.JPG)



(IMG_5644_rust after the slight grinding with sandpaper 3.JPG)



(IMG_5645_rust at one hinge inside.JPG)



(IMG_5646_battery tray not completely sand blasted courtesy shop.JPG)



(IMG_5647_small reinforcements not sandblasted.JPG)



(IMG_5647_small reinforcements not sandblasted.JPG)



(IMG_5649_not completely sandblasted.JPG)



(IMG_5651_outer fender to frame drivers side.JPG)



(IMG_5652_outer fender to frame passenger side.JPG)



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Attachments IMG_5642_rust after the slight grinding with sandpaper 1.JPG (154KB - 371 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5643_rust after the slight grinding with sandpaper 2.JPG (211KB - 371 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5644_rust after the slight grinding with sandpaper 3.JPG (220KB - 360 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5645_rust at one hinge inside.JPG (190KB - 361 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5646_battery tray not completely sand blasted courtesy shop.JPG (195KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5647_small reinforcements not sandblasted.JPG (153KB - 367 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5647_small reinforcements not sandblasted.JPG (153KB - 356 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5649_not completely sandblasted.JPG (168KB - 351 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5651_outer fender to frame drivers side.JPG (153KB - 369 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5652_outer fender to frame passenger side.JPG (170KB - 344 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-03 6:55 AM (#578801 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I got the answer (adjusting sub frame to the body) in the Service Reference Book 146 Suspension And Front-End Alignement Features - 1960 Models on page 5. There are shims as I expected....

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: What I know for sure... the underside of the hat deposing behind the rear seats I have to use the drilling machine and a sharp (rust consuming) wire wheel set to clean it. At the first shop there was just primer applied without a prior sand blasting... The owner of the body and painting shop offered I could do that job in his shop (originally I expected to perform that work when I have my Letter back).

After the owner of the Body and Paint shop mentioned we'll look forward to get a perfect result I do not look back, too. We'll bing my Letter to a good end. Even though it turns out to be a financial black hole.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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wizard
Posted 2019-03-03 7:10 AM (#578802 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Dieter, the subframe adjustment is one thing, the fitment of the inner fenders is another.


You can follow the proceedure in the manual for to check and eventually adjust the subframe to the body.

I'll check the gap on my inner fenders, I don't expect it to be totally even on both sides.


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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-03 11:49 AM (#578811 - in reply to #578802)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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wizard - 2019-03-02 1:10 PM Dieter, the subframe adjustment is one thing, the fitment of the inner fenders is another. You can follow the proceedure in the manual for to check and eventually adjust the subframe to the body. I'll check the gap on my inner fenders, I don't expect it to be totally even on both sides.

Hi Sven

When I visited my Letter yesterday I noticed that there is a spacer plate, about 1/8" thick, under to rear upper mounting of the passenger side front fender. At the cowl it is about 3/32" too high. Both front gaps from the doors to the front fender are looking parallel, even though the rear end of both doors is about 1/8" too low on both side. Actually I don't know if the sub frame is not adjusted correct or bent. Or if this spacer plate should be under the front mounting of the sub frame to the body. Normally if the radiator yoke is mounted, you could check it at the vertical front bolts from the radiator yoke to the sub frame (where there is a rubber isolation between). That rubber isolation I'm seeking as well - don't know if the rubber spacer for my Beast are the same.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-03-03 11:51 AM
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wizard
Posted 2019-03-03 12:46 PM (#578815 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I just checked on my car Dieter and the space is actually more or less even.


Normally, when a fender or the whole subframe is demounted, the location and number of shims as well as the thickness of the pack must be documented.


Check if you have any photos of the shims at the subframe mounting first of all.
If not, you must perform the proceedure in the fsm.


The subframe to body alignment/adjustment is very important for the correct height and track gauge.


Once the subframe is correctly aligned/adjusted, then it will be more easy to adjust the front fenders - of course, the doors must be adjusted first so that the gap is as even as possible in the rear end of the doors.



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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-04 12:01 PM (#578855 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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To adjust the subframe to the body I need four equal tires with the identical tire pressure... Actually on all four corners are different tires (also size of) mounted. These tires are just temporarely...

Then some impression from my Letter.... note the driver side rear corner. No wonder the chrome moulding was not mounted when I purchased the Letter...

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-03-04 12:04 PM




(Nakang tire.jpg)



(IMG_5666_drivers side rear corner outside with moulding around.JPG)



(IMG_5667_drivers side rear corner inside the trunk.JPG)



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Attachments Nakang tire.jpg (115KB - 355 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5666_drivers side rear corner outside with moulding around.JPG (193KB - 337 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5667_drivers side rear corner inside the trunk.JPG (151KB - 349 downloads)
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