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another 1960 Chrysler appeared
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mikes2nd
Posted 2019-03-04 1:22 PM (#578856 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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that sucks, I know the feeling where you like uhg what else? I get my own parts sandblasted and do my own body work.

Your too far in to quit though. Itll be worth it in the end

that would explain the rear quarter repair on the drivers side being off.

I think if you used a puller you could get it to move back a 1/4 inch, hopefully. It appears it has been "rounded" off a bit. Obviously gently and slowly.

You can see from your "redline" picture, the edge has been flatted from the damage. You need to put that body line back in place a little more. Its very tricky work.

As a body guy, I always try to use the trim and other body mouldings to make sure there was no damage and everything fits perfect.

That corner which was damaged should have been inspected carefully. It appears not a lot of work was done there at all(which is fine I guess it didn't cost you anything).

I hate "redoing" work, that's the worst... your redoing work but at least you didn't pay to have this ****up.
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57burb
Posted 2019-03-04 1:26 PM (#578857 - in reply to #578856)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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ouch, that is no good

It's just metal. It can be fixed, and should be. It would be better if they had done better collision repair back then, but this is just the reality for many of these old cars.

My dad works in a resto shop. You would be surprised how often they will finish the body and paint work, just to find out that the trim fits like that! And then have to pull it all back apart and fix it.

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Adventurer 60
Posted 2019-03-04 4:35 PM (#578869 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I feel sorry for you Dieter. How can any painter who has even little self respect can paint on surface rust for a customer who paid for sand blasting...
Here that kinda crook would be hanged from his bollocks.
Lee Meyer in South Ca has a 60 Windsor coupe and is parting it out. You should ask him if he got a decent left rear fender.
Right fender was busted if I remember right.
He also got some F-parts for sale.
He is in Facebook
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wizard
Posted 2019-03-05 8:50 AM (#578897 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Dieter, don't use the moulding as reference - it might be warped from the accident. Use a neck profile ruler on the right side, turn it and recheck the left side.

As reference, you might find one locally as well…..

https://www.dhgate.com/store/product/1-pcs-high-quality-profile-gaug...
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mikes2nd
Posted 2019-03-05 1:49 PM (#578905 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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well the moulding gets you an idea, yes check everything extensively... I think the trim is probably undamaged and a replacement. Im sure it was destroyed in the accident.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-05 2:17 PM (#578907 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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When I look at the trim of the drivers side.... the rear and the corner are looking fantastic. Do dent, nothing. Of course the side trim (long rail) has many dents from carless door openers on both sides. A big smile I got when I saw the 300 F ornament of the drivers side... all original colors and absolutely no discoloration from the environment. That shows me, that the drivers side trim was removed, eventually replaced (some parts) long, long ago. The really professional body worker at the second shop would produce templates out of body steel from the passenger side rear corner and flip it. Could be or most possible this is a ways more expensive solution than purchase the item Wizard proposed.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I was just curious and wanted to get an impression about the quotation (how far is the actual drivers side rear corner from it's original shape).

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-09 8:37 AM (#579070 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Some pictures (as a collection) of my visit this morning. I was just wondering how the underside of the dashboard carrier/inner, lower windshield frame surrounding looks like. From the hood shelf under the rear window I knew, that the shop owner took a brush to apply the primer. It looks like I have to clean the whole underside again with a rotating wire brush...

The reinforcement of the roof I have to remove myself as well. I guess on the side of the rubber I'm going to apply rust inhibitor color.

Absolutely clear now is why the drivers side rear corner doesn't match. Two pictures (passenger side and drivers side).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: because the subframe is mounted through a positive locking system at the rear, there is just to adjust the hight of the front mounting point after the adjustemts of the doors, following the front fenders and then the hight of the frame. If the front track is not inline the rear track, the subframe is bent or twisted and needs a replacement or a extensive repair.





(IMG_5685_underside inside dashbord carrier drivers side.JPG)



(IMG_5686_underside inside dashbord carrier center.JPG)



(IMG_5687_underside inside dashbord carrier passenger side.JPG)



(IMG_5689_roof reinforcement.JPG)



(IMG_5694_rear corner drivers side.JPG)



(IMG_5695_rear corner passenger side.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_5685_underside inside dashbord carrier drivers side.JPG (199KB - 404 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5686_underside inside dashbord carrier center.JPG (236KB - 395 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5687_underside inside dashbord carrier passenger side.JPG (249KB - 417 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5689_roof reinforcement.JPG (206KB - 406 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5694_rear corner drivers side.JPG (159KB - 416 downloads)
Attachments IMG_5695_rear corner passenger side.JPG (162KB - 418 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2019-03-09 9:12 AM (#579071 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Dieter, the backside of the cowl and under the dash, roof and rear shelf was never painted at all. Surely, you can do it better with a wire brush, but it's more like "nice to have", not necessary.

Please eludicate us how you concluded that it's absolutely clear why the corners doesn't match??
The dent in the right rear corner is a result of a kiss from the bumper - it should be smooth.
Or, am I missing something?

As for the subframe - did the guys check the diagonal measurements in the FSM, Group 13, paragraph 2, fig 5?

Hypothetically, if the diagonal measures are equal for A and B, it means that the subframe is not askew. This measures cannot be made with accuracy when the subframe is mounted, hence the "in-line" center line checks in the FSM.


So, the conclusion is; IF the subframe has the same diagonal measurements AND the body isn't severly damaged, then, hypothetically, the center line will be true when the subframe is mounted.

As for the frame to body check/adjustment refer to Group 13, paragraph 3 - this operation is done for to adjust eventual height differencies between the subframe and the body.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-09 11:13 AM (#579076 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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When the rear bumper is removed, the horizontal pressed steel piece (welded to the trunk floor or an extension of the trunk floor) appears. At both pictures (drivers side and passenger side) it's clearly visible that the distance between the ends of that sheet metal to the body is not equal on each side. The distance of the passenger side is about one inch (2 to 2.5 cm), while the distance at the drivers side is almost double ( I used the phone and took a finger as a reference, walked to the other side and compared, not mm accuracy, but a quality value expression). First time I thought something is not correct was, when the (farmer) body worker at the first shop completed the weather channel on the rear wall. It is not parallel like on JoseFin and every other 60 to 63 Chrysler, but tapered from the middle of the distance between the license plate recession and the corner where the weather strip channel changes the direction. I couldn't mount the recessions for the weather strip channel like you on the pictures you provided. At the drivers side I said, take the measurement at the construction. Because I knew that the channel should be parallel. At the very drivers side it's about 3/8" (1 cm, accurate) less wide.

Today I measured the inclination of the rear wall. Even though the measurement was all other than very accurate (tilt meter used with the rubber bumper around my iPhone X), it's sunny clear that at the drivers side some material is missing - the inclination on the drivers side is steeper, almost 3 degrees.

Visible from the top of the fin to the floor around the foot print of my Letter the diameter at the bottom where the rear fender turns around to the rear wall is noticealbe smaller on the drivers side than on the passenger side.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

 

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-09 11:36 AM (#579079 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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About the measurement of the distance A and B (from the rear leaf spring mounting point to the (I guess) mounting hole for the radiator yoke) should be possible on a car lift with four A4 sheets fixed to the floor and a plummet. Then this distance could be measured at the floor. The tolerance between each diagonal measurement is 0.25" (6.35 mm)according the FSM. For that measurement the subframe must be mounted at the body.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: both pictures are illustration, that I was not a severe damage at the frame. The main impact of that particular accident hit the front of the passenger side fenders, both inner and outer.

BTW 2: I cleaned the subframe outside the building from coating... there was no damage at the color of the frame (e.g. flaking/exfoliate color) at all.



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-03-09 11:41 AM




(IMG_4365_subframe as it was.JPG)



(IMG_4421_subframe repaired.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_4365_subframe as it was.JPG (191KB - 405 downloads)
Attachments IMG_4421_subframe repaired.JPG (285KB - 398 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2019-03-09 1:31 PM (#579086 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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A and B measurements in this case refers only to the subframe. Check the GSM and it will be clear.
The triangular measurement is a way when one doesn't have the special tools.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-09 1:44 PM (#579087 - in reply to #579086)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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wizard - 2019-03-08 7:31 PM A and B measurements in this case refers only to the subframe. Check the FSM and it will be clear. The triangular measurement is a way when one doesn't have the special tools.

I'm sorry, with all of my respect to you I think FSM chapter 23, page 17, Fig. 9 fits as well for the mounted subframe/body assembly.

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wizard
Posted 2019-03-09 4:51 PM (#579092 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yes Dieter, those measurements will cover everything. It might be difficult to reach some of the points, but it should be doable with some tooling.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-03-17 7:09 AM (#579455 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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As my Letter represents (just the outer front fender mounted at the front end and the subframe) I decided to purchase a set of 1/8" 46-85 Mopar Body, Fender Shims Alignement Adjusters Caster Camber Square at epain to put it between the passenger side front mounting brace. As I wrote earlier, the drivers side front fender is about 1.5 to 2 fingers above the subframe, while the passenger side front fender touches the subframe.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(body shim.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments body shim.jpg (146KB - 406 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-04-13 9:09 AM (#580817 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This week the radiator yoke (disassembled), the hood hinges, the inner fenders and the service covers went to the professional sand blaster shop. The foreman just shaked his head when he saw the parts how they were sandblasted. I'll getting it back epoxy coated (correct: the body and painter shop). As soon as they are back in the shop they'll start with the building up the paint layer construction.

Today the painter and me used a long water spirit level buble bar to check the side to side standing of the body on the wheels. From the painter the judgement was quite good. With the same size of tires on all four corners it could stay horizontal whithin few millimeters. The body is not warped diagonally. That's a good sign.

 

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-04-15 2:03 PM (#580925 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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These are  the parts (hopefully the only batch) to sandblast again like I addressed in my last entry.

Happy Restoring! (zynic in the meantime)





(IMG_5587_parts to sandblast a second time.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_5587_parts to sandblast a second time.JPG (473KB - 398 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-05-01 1:03 PM (#581627 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Last Saturday I was at the shop again. The painter said, next week the newly sandblasted parts will arrive at his shop. I assume next Saturday I‘ll visit him again. Further he communicated that his brother will cut and put in slices of sheet metal to bring the drivers side left hand side corner will come back in the original shape.

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-05-11 10:36 AM (#582021 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Today when I visited the body&paint shop I was surprised.

My Letter moved one place forward to the working area. The painter joined me (he came later, was ill like me, but I was driving the truck the whole week). We were walking around my Letter and discussing the solution for different issues (e.g. drivers side rear corner, zone below and around the passenger side tail light, the bump of the rear bumper on the passenger side, the outer wheel well passenger side, two harmonic dents near the rear top of the passenger side fin). The target is to use as less as possible of body filler.

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-05-26 2:26 AM (#582528 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yesterday after the vistit at the paint & bodyshop I visited the low quality shop again to pick up my grille frame. It made a tour to east Turkey and back. The costs were about two month salaries of an employee in that country (in local currency). I temporarely mounted the grille mesh just to look at. I'm aware to clean and eventually paint the grille mesh in satin black.

Dieter

BTW: I'm aware hypothetically to fix the spots and let rechrome it locally - I postpone that project to my retirement age.





(IMG_5928_grill frame repaired and rechromed.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_5928_grill frame repaired and rechromed.JPG (395KB - 363 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-05-26 2:30 AM (#582529 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Just the upper three quarts of the grille frame have contact to the front end sheet metal. That perimeter is in a astonishing good condition compared to the condition of the body at the very beginning of the restoration. The bottom quart of the surrounding is free hanging in the air on a 1960 Chrysler. At least at my Letter.

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-05-26 4:40 AM (#582531 - in reply to #580925)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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di_ch_NY56 - 2019-04-14 8:03 PM

These are  the parts (hopefully the only batch) to sandblast again like I addressed in my last entry.

Happy Restoring! (zynic in the meantime)

While the inner fenders were out of the car and the service covers present I tried to see how they will fit. But as long as the inner fenders are not mounted they will not fit perfect. Because the inner fenders are under tension while mounted.

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-06-01 8:37 AM (#582790 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Today I brought the mounting hardware to the body&paint shop. The UNF 9/16, UNF 3/4 and UNF 7/8 screws and hex nuts I ordered recently. Because the screws are UNF the hex nuts were cold welded and the threads are severly damaged. At the front top of the vertical piece (holding the bumber at the junction of the center and side parts of the rear bumper) is a snubber. It's 200 at Garys catalog, page 28.

Dieter





(IMG_5946_rear bumper mounting hardware.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_5946_rear bumper mounting hardware.JPG (482KB - 371 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-06-29 11:01 AM (#584210 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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All the parts of the front end (second time sandblasting) are back. The surface of the service doors is now smooth like silk. On some other parts rust has taken the toll. So on visible areas filler and primer will be used to make these surfaces flat again (filler only for the recessions taken by rust). On the positive side the painter said, these parts are a pleasure to work on now. Not as good.... he announced they'll start working on my Letter past the end of our summer holiday season (defined by school holidays, five weeks). So the whole body will be delayed once more. It's what the engine builder announced (he expects) ways earlier this year. But for the engine, still no solution is in sight. Except e.g. take a running 1960 Imperial (or New Yorker) engine and transfer all Letter specific parts to that engine (intake system, exhaust manifold, camshaft, distributor, ignition cable guiding parts).





(IMG_6039_inner front fenders and bottom traverse of front end.JPG)



(IMG_6040_fender reinforcement bars and upper traverse of front end.JPG)



(IMG_6041_service doors and vertical carrier of front end.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_6039_inner front fenders and bottom traverse of front end.JPG (204KB - 368 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6040_fender reinforcement bars and upper traverse of front end.JPG (244KB - 364 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6041_service doors and vertical carrier of front end.JPG (225KB - 364 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-08-03 5:08 AM (#585563 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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On the last entry, on the first picture ontop (6039_...) is the drivers side inner fender. Actually the shop is closed due to the holiday season. It'll open August 5th this year again. Next Saturday I'll visit them again.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-08-04 12:56 PM (#585628 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I guess it's sunny clear for everybody - I listened too earnest to a friend. For the surprice I have to pay just for the body (painted at the end est. price (my opinion) just for the body: CHF 65'000.-, about the same amount in USD) I could have shipped the combo body/engine/transmission to Sweden forth and back many times via a freight exchange service and I assume with the restoration of the body (Malung) and engine (Sturkö) in Sweden I would have the body/engine/transmisison combo back now and working. The engine according factory specifivations.

I know I'm responsible and I'm listeing ways to close to many guys. That's my fault.

Until now, absolutely no solution for the crankshaft is in sight. In my opinion the idea with an aftermarktet crankshaft is falling down like a card house, because there is (apparently) no market case in sight for a any factory (Scat, Eagle, ...).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-08-24 9:10 AM (#586490 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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The adjusting of the body (/w doors) started. I visited the body and color shop again today. From what we noticed (rust under the primer on many places) the whole body needs another sand blast at another company again. IMG_6311_..... shows a rust that could produce bubbles unter the paint coating within few years. To get a car that is very solid, the sheet metal must be free from any rust under the primer - even more when the surface rust areas were not 100% dry like in my case. Costs me another 5000 bucks. The comment of the body and paint is absolutlely correct: "it's the last point of doing such a work (sand blast again) again".

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_6304_front view of my Letter.JPG)



(IMG_6306_drivers side door to rear quarter adjustment.JPG)



(IMG_6305_drivers side door to front fender adjustment.JPG)



(IMG_6308_passenger side door to rear quarter adjustment.JPG)



(IMG_6309_passenger side door to front fender adjustment.JPG)



(IMG_6310_C-pillar driver side rust under the primer.JPG)



(IMG_6311_rear window drivers side bow rust under the primer.JPG)



(IMG_6312_rear window drivers side one more test.JPG)



(IMG_6313_trunk lid fake spare wheel recession - rust under the primer.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_6304_front view of my Letter.JPG (357KB - 361 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6306_drivers side door to rear quarter adjustment.JPG (249KB - 351 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6305_drivers side door to front fender adjustment.JPG (301KB - 349 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6308_passenger side door to rear quarter adjustment.JPG (251KB - 348 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6309_passenger side door to front fender adjustment.JPG (280KB - 357 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6310_C-pillar driver side rust under the primer.JPG (262KB - 352 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6311_rear window drivers side bow rust under the primer.JPG (265KB - 364 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6312_rear window drivers side one more test.JPG (322KB - 378 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6313_trunk lid fake spare wheel recession - rust under the primer.JPG (340KB - 358 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-09-14 11:56 AM (#587516 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Location: ZH, Switzerland

Today sorting out of the rear windows and windshield mouldings. I took the very bad looking grille frame (from Charles Marshall) with me for a further check. The owner (and painter) of the paint and body shop introduced me to a guy, originally from Adana. This guy told me, the started working as panel-beater as a 10 year old boy. He learned his business from his dad. His benefit was the very close Incirlik Air Base where the Amercans to their cars with them to Turkey. He said, the original sheet metal was 1.2 mm. Also he told me, the other guy from the farm smith body shop wanted to hire him, but he denied.

He looks very happy to work on my Letter. Within two weeks he'll solve all body problems at my Letter.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_6364_test mounting windshield moulding.JPG)



(IMG_6365_test mounting rear window moulding.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_6364_test mounting windshield moulding.JPG (360KB - 340 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6365_test mounting rear window moulding.JPG (407KB - 385 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-09-22 10:38 AM (#587838 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yesterday I met the boss of the highly professional body & painting shop again. The body metal smith will start in the new week.

I provided few fotos of how the rear end should look like.

From the discussion I heard what I expected.

At the farm smith the Serbian body worker left with a hefty fight. I didn't got his salary. The farmer smith owner claimed, "his" former body smith had stolen some newly chromed pot metal parts.

The boss of the actual shop, where my Letter actually is, was surprised about the really bad work of the Serbian body worker. He's a good body worker as well, but under bad influence. The boss (of the higly professional body and painting shop) claimed that the amount I paid at the farm smith should be enough to do the whole body work on my Letter as it was prior to the work under discussion. Bad enough the farm smith owner has a part I would like to get (the cover of the passenger side access hole for the antenna). This guy (the farm smith owner) is the biggest betrayer and liar I personally every met in my life.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-09-22 10:42 AM
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-10-05 7:39 AM (#588431 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Yunus worked for one and a half day at my Letter. The work he performed is astonishing! It's just the raw shape and one more half day is necessary. He had to do some cuts with the angle grinder to release the tension caused by accidents and all other than professional work perforemed from months to tens of years earlier.

For the adjustment of the hood, fenders, doors and trunk lid I'm more than happy. It's just raw adjusted by sight and not with measurement tape. But in my opinion from what I saw (other cars of that decade) it's more than perfect.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_6496 driver side rear corner back in shape (raw).JPG)



(IMG_6497 back view of driver side rear corner.JPG)



(IMG_6498 signs of one more accident corrected passenger side rear corner.JPG)



(IMG_6499 rear view of the passenger side rear corner correction.JPG)



(IMG_6500 Passeger side door opening correction.JPG)



(IMG_6501 front bow of passenger door corrected.JPG)



(IMG_6502 passenger side front fender bow in shape again.JPG)



(IMG_6503 passenger side front fender to hood correction.JPG)



(IMG_6504 drivers side front fender to hood correction.JPG)



(IMG_6505 front view.JPG)



(IMG_6506 drivers side front fender issue fixed.JPG)



(IMG_6507 drivers side front fender issue 2 fixed.JPG)



(IMG_6508 trunk lid adjustment to the rear window.JPG)



(IMG_6509 trunk lid adjustment to the vertical rear wall.JPG)



(IMG_6510 four fifth side-rear view.JPG)



(IMG_6511 Passenger side rear bump from bumper removed.JPG)



(IMG_6512 Toold set of Yunus.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_6496 driver side rear corner back in shape (raw).JPG (317KB - 340 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6497 back view of driver side rear corner.JPG (419KB - 352 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6498 signs of one more accident corrected passenger side rear corner.JPG (308KB - 354 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6499 rear view of the passenger side rear corner correction.JPG (297KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6500 Passeger side door opening correction.JPG (226KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6501 front bow of passenger door corrected.JPG (220KB - 352 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6502 passenger side front fender bow in shape again.JPG (254KB - 346 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6503 passenger side front fender to hood correction.JPG (275KB - 336 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6504 drivers side front fender to hood correction.JPG (274KB - 359 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6505 front view.JPG (358KB - 344 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6506 drivers side front fender issue fixed.JPG (228KB - 331 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6507 drivers side front fender issue 2 fixed.JPG (240KB - 332 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6508 trunk lid adjustment to the rear window.JPG (290KB - 327 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6509 trunk lid adjustment to the vertical rear wall.JPG (311KB - 334 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6510 four fifth side-rear view.JPG (290KB - 341 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6511 Passenger side rear bump from bumper removed.JPG (321KB - 347 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6512 Toold set of Yunus.JPG (229KB - 362 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2019-10-05 8:59 AM (#588432 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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darn dude... going to have it blasted now? glad to see your not still going backwards...
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saratoga ny
Posted 2019-10-05 1:47 PM (#588445 - in reply to #588432)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared


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Sorry to hear about your troubles. Poor work and care, done by your blaster, make me sick. You have a fine looking car. Refer to the scene in American Gangster movie, the alpaca scene. "That's genuine alpaca carpet, You Blot Dat s**t"
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-10-06 4:27 AM (#588464 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Thanks a lot dudes.

There are some small adjustments at the grill frame perimeter to adjust. The grill frame itself I purchased from a betrayer in the States (active with ways too positive anounced parts at the Chrysler 300 International Club as well). The original one looks ways better, but for this work the old, bad looking is good enough.

When all ajustments and open issues are solved, yes, my Letter goes to a complete sandbalsting (except the inner quarter and inner door structure) again. When my Letter comes back from the sandblasting it will be primered again with a very high quality primer. After going back to the body&paint shop, the painter starts his work with applying the color with professional build up of the layers prior to apply the final color close to factory Alaska white color. That needs loads of time, because the layers will be naturally dried.

One guy visiting the actual body&paint-shop judged a very positive signal for the undercarriage of my Letter. That's the only good work of the former farm smith shop. But no wonder, there was no rust nor any bad destruction of an accident. I do not want to do further coments about the farm smith shop. I want to get rid of that time.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

 

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wizard
Posted 2019-10-06 11:05 AM (#588471 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Great that the works have started on your Letter again Dieter. Interesting approach on the chrash damages.

Just mind that the pot metal in the grille frame might be somewhat warped, so please check with the other grille frame as well.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-10-19 12:40 PM (#589002 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This is the original, newly chromed grille frame. One picture shows the grille frame with the mesh installed just to watch how it would look.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

 

BTW: the original grille frame is not bent - confirmed by the painter who assisted. Sidemark: during seeking a very good grille frame years ago once I saw a picture at epain ('60 NY parting out). That grille frame was broken into six parts all around the perimeter. From the time area where these grille frame were built - I assume the quality of the pot metal was that kind that a grill frame didn't bend but break into parts. Furthermore that quality of that pot metal has a big affinity to zinc pest.



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-10-19 12:46 PM




(IMG_6549_original grille frame from right side.JPG)



(IMG_6550_original grille frame from top.JPG)



Attachments
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Attachments IMG_6549_original grille frame from right side.JPG (397KB - 322 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6550_original grille frame from top.JPG (443KB - 324 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-11-05 4:51 AM (#589731 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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The plan on my Letter is first to finish the front end to get it ready to sand blast again together with the doors. After these parts are brought to the sand blaster, the finishing works will be performed at the rear end of my Letter. When these parts are back (primered) the buidling process of the color layers starts. The body of my Letter goes to the sand blaster as well. When it comes back, the building process of the color layers will start as well. The painter will paint a sample mild steel plate piece first to show it to me. He'll aim to the original formula of Alaska White WW1.

Happy Restoring

Dieter

BTW: what I got out while elaborating... 1960 all Chrysler models were painted in a two coat system, first base color coat, second a protective clear coat layer.

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NicksGarage
Posted 2019-11-05 12:24 PM (#589750 - in reply to #589002)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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di_ch_NY56 - 2019-10-19 9:40 AM

BTW: the original grille frame is not bent - confirmed by the painter who assisted. Sidemark: during seeking a very good grille frame years ago once I saw a picture at epain ('60 NY parting out). That grille frame was broken into six parts all around the perimeter. From the time area where these grille frame were built - I assume the quality of the pot metal was that kind that a grill frame didn't bend but break into parts. Furthermore that quality of that pot metal has a big affinity to zinc pest.



Yes, they break when hit. I bought this one to get the emblem for my wagon.





(grille_broken.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments grille_broken.jpg (198KB - 318 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-11-30 6:27 AM (#590928 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This morning, after three Saturdays in a row working with the truck, I visited the body&paint shop again. Some parts now have some progress...

All the work performed and pending for the next week is prework for the second sand blasting. This parts will go to the sand blasting again prior Christmas Season.

As you could notice, this time the doors and front end are removed and treated seperately. The parts already sand blasted again I know, the surface will be almost as smooth as a baby skin.

Happy restoring

Dieter





(IMG_6699_passeger side door.JPG)



(IMG_6700_passenger side door rust and tar on the inside corner.JPG)



(IMG_6701_drivers side fender tin layer applied and protected.JPG)



(IMG_6702_passenger side fender front shape now correct and tin layer applied.JPG)



(IMG_6703_drivers side side door dents pulled out.JPG)



(IMG_6704_passenger side door dents pulled out and tin layer applied.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_6699_passeger side door.JPG (468KB - 318 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6700_passenger side door rust and tar on the inside corner.JPG (395KB - 320 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6701_drivers side fender tin layer applied and protected.JPG (470KB - 311 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6702_passenger side fender front shape now correct and tin layer applied.JPG (406KB - 319 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6703_drivers side side door dents pulled out.JPG (451KB - 321 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6704_passenger side door dents pulled out and tin layer applied.JPG (389KB - 325 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-08 4:21 AM (#591265 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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On Saturday I visited the Body&Painting shop again. All the parts in my last essay are protected with primer now. on every area with thin tin layer there is a message writen onto the primer to pass the information to the sand blaster.

On the painter stand now is the hood. At the passenger side is a flat area with a small bump to the outside. To solve that issue all the foam between the inner structure and the shell of the hood is removed now.

That issue will be solved prior to bring all parts to the sand blaster...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-14 10:08 AM (#591586 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This Saturday I visited the body and paint shop again. The sand blasting is postponed to the new year. The body section of the body and paint shop is very busy now with other, regular work with very tight timeframes.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_6750_hood with flat area and conter bump.JPG)



(IMG_6752_rear inside structure of passenger side front fender.JPG)



(IMG_6753_above headlamp bowls passenger side front fender.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_6750_hood with flat area and conter bump.JPG (284KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6752_rear inside structure of passenger side front fender.JPG (330KB - 315 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6753_above headlamp bowls passenger side front fender.JPG (196KB - 314 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-21 8:11 AM (#591864 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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This morning I went to the paint & body shop once again. Idea was to break free the ball joints at the front suspension.

Success: with the original socket, a 3/4" drive with a T handle and a 6.6 feet 1" gas tube as an extension pipe I could break free all four ball joints in the upper and lower arm of the front suspension. Three of four are that free, that I could use the 3/4" drive with T handle alone.

Assisting was the painter for few minutes. The fourth moved as well, but not that much, that I could use the T handle alone. So I'm going again for that one.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

 

 

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-23 6:43 AM (#591919 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I visited the shop once again. One question rose: what to correct? the trunk lid or the inner side of the rear fender at the passenger side?

I'll appreciate your anser very much, thank you.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(IMG_6771_trunk lid to passenger side fender adjusting.JPG)



(IMG_6771_trunk lid to passenger side fender adjusting with pointers.JPG)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments IMG_6771_trunk lid to passenger side fender adjusting.JPG (414KB - 306 downloads)
Attachments IMG_6771_trunk lid to passenger side fender adjusting with pointers.JPG (416KB - 307 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2019-12-23 9:31 AM (#591924 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Difficult to say Dieter, how much are we talking about here? Judging from your photos it seems to be roundabout 3 - 5 mm.

It would be best to adjust the trunk lid, eventually it would be able to straighten the radius somewhat.

The fender would mean either to cut and weld, or to use lead for to build it up.

If we think about the factory appearance, then it's "good" as is
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Beltran
Posted 2019-12-23 9:32 AM (#591925 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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I would say the fender. You have a lot of work into that already and if you touch the deck lid it may be noticeable from the rear in comparison to the other side of the car. This is assuming the deck lid is perfectly straight.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-23 11:54 AM (#591930 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Big thank you for your answers. I assume I have to visit the shop again to compare the radius of the deck lid to the fender (weatherstrip channel) on both sides to decide if the correction is to do on the deck lid or the perimeter of the passenger side inner side of the rear fender.

From Jari I got the hint to check his thread - I'll do it asap.

Merry Christmas to all!

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

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wizard
Posted 2019-12-23 12:06 PM (#591931 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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If you have some pieces left of the trunk weatherstrip, mount 4 pieces in the corners and close the deck lid.

It doesn't affect much, but it gives a clue of how the lid will close with the weatherstrip mounted.

I had to shim up my trunk lid hinges slightly for to be able to close the lid without too much force
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-23 12:30 PM (#591934 - in reply to #591931)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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wizard - 2019-12-22 6:06 PM If you have some pieces left of the trunk weatherstrip, mount 4 pieces in the corners and close the deck lid. It doesn't affect much, but it gives a clue of how the lid will close with the weatherstrip mounted. I had to shim up my trunk lid hinges slightly for to be able to close the lid without too much force

Thanks a lot for your hint. I just watched some 60 NY, 61 G of Jari. None of the cars have an exact following of the contour of the trunk lid to the inner fenders. Some cars have a big gap at the end of the trunk lid where others the contour doesn't follow the fender line (trunk opening) exactly (within a 1 mm)... (;-)

The inner side of the fenders is almost not to correct due to the vertical reinforcement that runs under the skin of the inner side of the rear fenders...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: Yunus is in the shop again. He assisted me with the lower ball joint at the drivers side (one turn more, but still goinig strong). He announced he'll finish his work prior to the end of that year (closing the slots, tin applying, side of both rear fenders). It could be that the body is fully painted prior to the summer 2020. When I'm thinking ahead (one of best character qualities) my first job when the body is back in the barn is to install the restored wiring harness (tail lamp sockets and citric acid bath for the terminals). (:-)



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-12-23 12:31 PM
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wizard
Posted 2019-12-23 12:55 PM (#591936 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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Dieter, it seems like the ball joint is binding in the threads. Try to tighten it somewhat, heat up the control arm with a hot air gun and try to loosen it while it still is hot. If you have bad luck, the ball joint could destroy the threads while you demount it. Work slow and carefully.
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-23 2:17 PM (#591941 - in reply to #591936)
Subject: Re: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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wizard - 2019-12-22 6:55 PM Dieter, it seems like the ball joint is binding in the threads. Try to tighten it somewhat, heat up the control arm with a hot air gun and try to loosen it while it still is hot. If you have bad luck, the ball joint could destroy the threads while you demount it. Work slow and carefully.

We were (Yunus and me today, Mehmet and me on Saturday) very careful. When breaking all four free, I wiggled forth and back, used a lot of WD40 to penetrate. We'll try tomorrow again. Yunus promised my Letter would be on the car lift to get better access.

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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-23 2:21 PM (#591942 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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One more subject rose (first time at the first shop)... the mounting of the radiator yoke to the subframe. There are two holes in the subframe and corresponding holes on the bottom of the radiator yoke. Originally there were rubber washers installed, but the guys at the first shop threw them away.

I'm attaching a section out of the chapter 7 cooling to show which parts I mean - where the hell do I get it....

Happy Restoring!

Dieter





(mounting radiator yoke to front subframe.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments mounting radiator yoke to front subframe.jpg (249KB - 303 downloads)
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di_ch_NY56
Posted 2019-12-25 5:51 AM (#592005 - in reply to #469368)
Subject: RE: another 1960 Chrysler appeared



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For the mounting hardware from the radiator yoke to the front subframe I sent a mail to Jan. Hopefully I'll get an answer.

Last day I visited the body and painting  shop, the owner of the shop showed me the formula for the WW-1 (Alaskan White) color. It's very interesting, what's all in that color. The owner (and painter at the same time) will paint a sample sheet metal to show me the result. He'll order 8 Liters after his estimation for two layers of the finishing color.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter



Edited by di_ch_NY56 2019-12-25 5:55 AM
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