My Letter (body wise) has holiday season for few weeks.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Today I was in the shop...

The illumination of the shop is improving actually. I did refill the rh rear tire (completely flat). In the paint booth is an AMG GTS (with all body parts removed) to get a new paint shop. In front of the booth bumpers, hood, doors, front fenders and hatch lid with a fresh coat of primer and marker coat . The AMG GTS.... from a guy with a very thick wallet (originally with a foiling applied - another shop removed the foiling (the only question mark from my side is why didn't they remove the windshield as well?), the owner got rid of the like of the foiling surface, now.... a completely new layer of paint - apparently a very lucrative job...).

This is the reason, my project stalls.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I don't buy anymore parts in advance... no space anymore in my house

This morning I was at the body and paint shop.

The detailing work on the trunk lid has started. The very skilled body worker from Turkey did remove some minor dents from the sand blasting. With the owner of the body and paint shop I discussed the further work on the trunk lid (especially the bowl under the ornament).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Big thanks to Big M. I got the the emergency brake drum and the propeller shaft.

this early morning I unpacked both parcels and discovered.... both propeller shafts are identical. The diameter of the flange of the B/T-housing is identical.

Later on.... I'll cleaning the b/t-housing and will look how the state of the inside of the housing is.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

B/T-state: the case inside looks very promission, one roller is stuck, both gliding shoes show almost no wear.

This morning is was at the painter and body shop. Both front fenders are in work again. The passenger side front fender needs a bit adjustment due to the more than discutable body work in the first shop (the paint&body-shop owner said, his employee was working for hours on the outside line of the passenger side front fender).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: note the very careful installation of the front fenders

(IMG_9122 front fender pair in work view from right hand side.JPG)

(IMG_9123 front fender pair in work view from left hand side.JPG)

IMG_9122 front fender pair in work view from right hand side.JPG (380KB - 216 downloads)

IMG_9123 front fender pair in work view from left hand side.JPG (356KB - 209 downloads)

I managed to work away the roller and needle bearing on the propeller shaft from Big M (only one side was difficult). I noticed that the inside washer on one side was partially eaten up (the side the roller and needle bearing went away with no problem, one needle was missinig). Visible from eye and took the vernier caliper (metric) to measure the offset of the pin... almost 1/8". Of course, not visible from the outside (assembled).

So I guess I'm going to remove the center pin on both propeller shafts and use the b/t case from the "new" propeller shaft and the parts from the restoring kit (even though the cover doesn't have the "Detroit" embossing) and the existing original propeller shaft w/o the pin and b/t case.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

This morning once again I visited the body and paint shop. The picture was taken at the beginning of my stay there. But almost at the end of my visit, the trunk lid has been finished to the state to get a fresh coat of primer. The work on the hood just started (few spots are very coarse due to the heavy sand blasting and will need some filler - but really all rust has been removed).

The body is almost finished as most other parts as well.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_9196 trunk lid on work.JPG)

IMG_9196 trunk lid on work.JPG (419KB - 193 downloads)

Yesterday I went to the body and paint shop to replace the cv axles on my very high milage V50 and installed new Taiwanese fog lamps (the glass on both fog lamps were beyond polishing).

The owner showed me the trunk lid (even the border of the inner bowl and the skin is open again - just the absolute minimum of filler used). The hood is in the paint booth and looks georgous with primer coat.

The outer skin of both front doors are on the last step of preparing. The owner and his employee (very skilled and very efficient - former Stadler Rail locomotive and carriage painter - he does a very good job).

The owner of the paint and body shop asked for a 50% pre payment - for sure he'll get it. Next saturday a first sample (quite big piece of sheet metal he announced) will be painted with the top coat to show it to me. As noted ways earlier here, he got the original formula of the color to mix it with a contemporary paint brand (most probalbly PPG).

I got a quite accurate estimation of the delivery date: spring 2022 (end of March).

At the engine restoreres (I did a phone call recently) he announced to do a phone call just prior Christmas Season. At that time the engine block still was at the engine block machining company.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Pictures to the last entry. In the meantime the door outer skin on both front doors is almost finished as well.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_9249 hood.JPG)

(IMG_9250 trunk lid almost finished.JPG)

(IMG_9251 both doors.JPG)

IMG_9249 hood.JPG (409KB - 191 downloads)

IMG_9250 trunk lid almost finished.JPG (332KB - 198 downloads)

IMG_9251 both doors.JPG (333KB - 193 downloads)

Thank you Mike

In the meantime the trunk lid and one door got the fine primer layer. When the owner has time he'll do a further progress on the body (grinding the primer layer to the half thickness), first inside the fin on the passenger side from the door opening to the tail, than the quarter panels.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

This morning I was at the body and paint shop once again. One door will get fine filler and a grinding job again. The hood is under a grinding job again. The work on the body did resume on a very small amount until the tire change season (Summer to Winter) has passed.

The owner of the body and paint shop showed the first sample painted in the formula he got from a door handle polisher from PPG (WW1 Alsakan White, Polar White, Sable White, Oyster White, White White White (Golss)) with contemporary indigrients (already at least one car has been painted with this color formula somewhere on the Earth). We did look at the sample under foggy sky. The color is a warm cream white, a little bit more than the Mercedes Classic White (a car ahead of me, when I drove home).

I guess my Letter will look gorgeous with that color (two layers and a glaze layer (as he used on a Pearl Yellow metallic AMG GTS coupe)).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

The first three parts got the first layer of the final color. These are the inside of the doors and the hood inside. Next week the inner side of the trunk lid, the front fenders and the complete inner structure of the front clip will be painted in the same color (Alaskian White - original formula as I did mention earlier). The color in nature looks gorgeous.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_9381_doors and hood.JPG)

(IMG_9382_close up view.JPG)

IMG_9381_doors and hood.JPG (339KB - 176 downloads)

IMG_9382_close up view.JPG (444KB - 182 downloads)

Few parts got the final paint, not in picture are radiator yoke, hood latch beam, lower end profile, vertical reinforcement, inner front fenders.

At the body, the passenger side fin got a fine grinding (ready now). The rear wall of the trunk got the final touch up. Under discussion is the very, very low recession around the trunk lock opening. The boss of the body and paint shop would like to egalize the small imperfection (in his eyes). Resting are both side walls (quarter panels) to get the fine touch. Next week over the boss will spend his (highly deserved) Season Holidays until New Year with his family. So further progress next year.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_9406 hood.JPG)

(IMG_9405 drivers side door.JPG)

(IMG_9404 trunk lid.JPG)

(IMG_9407 body rear end on work again.JPG)

IMG_9406 hood.JPG (358KB - 167 downloads)

IMG_9405 drivers side door.JPG (341KB - 162 downloads)

IMG_9404 trunk lid.JPG (292KB - 175 downloads)

IMG_9407 body rear end on work again.JPG (498KB - 160 downloads)

Thank you Sven

Spot on

The weak point on my Letter is all the chrome and stainless steel parts. I know a guy who could (as he would) do that in his free time as he did it for his own car. I guess everybody here knows that the weak point on cars of that area is the pot metal (internal corroding).

That is the reason, why my project takes sooooooooo long... (in time).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Big thanks for all comments.

Yesterday, late evening I got a set of pictures from the boss of the paint and body shop. I didn't mention it to him, but for me he's like a friend. The boss now is gonna enjoy his well deserved Christmas Holiday until January 1st 2022. He's working as a bee (underestimated). Big thank you to the boss of the paint and body shop.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IHNN2590 passenger side fender front top view.JPG)

(OJAT5867 overwiew paint booth with drivers side fender.JPG)

(WBCR7826 hood inside trunk lid inside both doors inside (top view).JPG)

(ETVV0767 hood inside.JPG)

(IMWY2327 drivers door inside and some more parts.JPG)

IHNN2590 passenger side fender front top view.JPG (303KB - 173 downloads)

OJAT5867 overwiew paint booth with drivers side fender.JPG (478KB - 180 downloads)

WBCR7826 hood inside trunk lid inside both doors inside (top view).JPG (269KB - 170 downloads)

ETVV0767 hood inside.JPG (281KB - 165 downloads)

IMWY2327 drivers door inside and some more parts.JPG (354KB - 176 downloads)

Merry Christmas to all of you.

Big thank you for your wishes.

Happy New Year to everybody!

I went to the barn to seek for the arm rests ontop of the center console. Finally I got em. The screws at the pivot of the rear arm rest are frozen. The vent windows will have some work as well. Main point is the broken adjuster screw holder at the drivers side. It was already broker prior to remove it from the door.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_9477 center console front piece.JPG)

(IMG_9478 center console rear piece.JPG)

(IMG_9479 vent window door window channel both vent windows.JPG)

(IMG_9481 vent window lower adjuster base broken.JPG)

IMG_9477 center console front piece.JPG (361KB - 154 downloads)

IMG_9478 center console rear piece.JPG (375KB - 158 downloads)

IMG_9479 vent window door window channel both vent windows.JPG (293KB - 164 downloads)

IMG_9481 vent window lower adjuster base broken.JPG (192KB - 162 downloads)

I got the two UNF 10-32 x 7/32" screws of rear hinge band out with WD40 and loads of pressure to the PH2-screwdriver. The structure is made out of a 3D fibreglass structure. Fortunately I still have a very nice catch up stainless steel rope with the white isolation like cover around it on the front arm rest as Bob in a video (YouTube) described.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Picture: inside the front arm rest... with a part of the underside of the cover (quite thick faux leather, light tan colored)

(IMG_9489 inside the front arm rest.JPG)

IMG_9489 inside the front arm rest.JPG (294KB - 158 downloads)

Thanks Sven

I'm going to ask the painter if he knows a shop in Switzerland who does that procedure glue and flocking. For me myself it's ways beyond my possibilities at home. I guess the same procedure was applied duriing the production time. The only way I can do myself is model railway powder (black) and a glue out of a rattle can.

Anybody here with an alternative way?

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

56D500boy - 2022-01-02 4:22 PM

di_ch_NY56 - 2022-01-02 8:15 AM I'm going to ask the painter if he knows a shop in Switzerland who does that procedure glue and flocking. For me myself it's ways beyond my possibilities at home. I guess the same procedure was applied duriing the production time. The only way I can do myself is model railway powder (black) and a glue out of a rattle can. Anybody here with an alternative way?

Dieter: In North America, there is (or was) a contact paper (sticky glue on one side with a peel-off cover paper) that was black flocked on the upper side. You might check hobby shops for that. Fabric stores here in North America will typically carry a low "nap" (fibre height) black velvet or "velvetine". I have used that for a few house projects (back side of display cabinet). I think I used spray glue. Just some ideas. :)

Dave: big thank you for your hint. At epain I got "Self-Adhesive Velvet Flock Contact Paper Liner for Jewelry". I assume that's exactly what it was rolling off the assembly line (my F). During the journey this morning with my V50 under the cover (middle arm rest like) is a bin with exactly the same finish. Very kind to touch it. I guess prior, clean the bin with thinner and smoothen it.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

What do you think about that

"Tan Light Parchment Vinyl Upholstery Fabric Durable Grade Vinyl Fabric by Yard"

for door panels (base) and arm rest (two sewing lines at the outer edges). I was looking at epain.us

I was seeking for "light tan vinyl fabric".

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Sad, you couldn't visit my Letter in natura. From looking again at the picture, the odd looking body line (your words) are exactly where the sun ray beam is on the floor. Saturday before Christmas Season I saw my Letter wet (silicone remover) and we inspected the lines both, the Boss of the Body and Paint shop and me. Nothing odd at all.

Kind regards

Dieter

I wrote down three orders (with an order date) for that year for Quirey Quality Design. Plus the order date for the ordering of the windshield, a NAGS W590, green, with smoke band. Preferred is the windshield direct from Finnland (or North European Country), instead of a detour over California.

Corresponding to the expectable progress at my Letter.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: the red circle is not with no reason. At that area the surface is more coarse than the rest. But it will become as smooth as the rest of the Letter.

Today I sorted some parts and put a label with the content to the card box of parts of my Letter. The bags with the rubber ends of the B post and door end fell into my sight. One carrier was rusted away. So I made a card paper template. I assume the carriers were made out of spring steel.

For the lower end of the front glass run channel (was broken off prior the removing from the door) I'm asking the guys I know from earlier for help to repair the adjuster beam.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

BTW: I know the vacuum canister still is not ready to install (some work with a steel rasp, further removing of loose rust (lower end of the mounting frame is welded on) and smoe more).

(IMG_9496 vacuum canister brushed.JPG)

(IMG_9509 vacuum canister repaired.JPG)

(IMG_9511 rear door end and b pillar rubbers.JPG)

(IMG_9481 lower adjuster of the glass run channel and vent window frame at the drivers side.JPG)

IMG_9496 vacuum canister brushed.JPG (392KB - 164 downloads)

IMG_9509 vacuum canister repaired.JPG (273KB - 152 downloads)

IMG_9511 rear door end and b pillar rubbers.JPG (323KB - 154 downloads)

IMG_9481 lower adjuster of the glass run channel and vent window frame at the drivers side.JPG (192KB - 167 downloads)

I did use 400 grit wet sanding paper to clean the vacuum canister. It got the first layer of epoxy rust inhibitor.

From the engine restorer I got good news... the cylinder grinder did start working on the engine. Everything okay so far was his comment (the engine restorer visited the cylinder grinder shop). More within two weeks about the engine. Just a quite small final paying will follow (two prepayments confirmed on paper).

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

I did shake the can. Just a minor amout of rust in the can. I assume I could let it, as it is. Now I'm going to apply stone chip resistant color to the can. Afterwards a layer, or two of satin black.

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

Hi you're probably right. As described I did apply some stuff onto the vacuum bottle (canister)...

Happy Restoring!

Dieter

(IMG_9518 vacuum bottle actual state.JPG)

IMG_9518 vacuum bottle actual state.JPG (271KB - 150 downloads)

I'll do it

Hi Ian

I did use a vacuum pump (manually driven) to check. This area is repaired with electronic thin and an electronic welding station. I pumped down to 15 in Hg Vac. It was keeping the vacuum and releasing it very, very slow prior to proceed the further restoration.

Dieter