The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth
Jump to page : 1 2 3 4
Now viewing page 3 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look NON-Technical Discussions -> Members RidesMessage format
 
Mopar1
Posted 2019-12-03 6:58 AM (#591037 - in reply to #591028)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert

Posts: 3027
2000100025
Location: N.W. Fla.
Powerflite - 2019-12-02 7:05 PM

What would you do for it, other than nothing?
I didn't stick any 331 badges n my '60 Plym….
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Handygun
Posted 2019-12-10 7:30 PM (#591425 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Elite Veteran

Posts: 1117
1000100
Location: STL, MO
Nathan in past conversations we've had I told you your car was a inspiration for me to build a FL car with a early Chrysler. When I was having grief fitting a decent free flowing exhaust in my Plymouth, Chaney (Dukeboy) suggested using a front frame clip from a crown vic-impala-Dakota and I thought no way would I get rid of torsion bars for coils especially on a 57-58 car however in your case to me it doesn't seem bad. You would pick up room, get rid of kingpins, better brakes, parts avail anywhere, a swaybar, etc etc just a thought. And I still dig your car hydramatic or not.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2019-12-10 8:05 PM (#591428 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
A rack & pinion would give me more space, but I'm not fond of such suspension conversions. If this were the only car I played with, I might consider doing some trial & error with frame & suspension changes, but I just don't have the time or interest in going down that road. Not only that, but I have already finished the hard part of making the headers so I'm not going to back away now. I'm not really looking for stellar performance, just trying to get the exhaust from pointing straight down and getting it off the ground. I picked the 700R4 because I believe it is the best overdrive trans out there that doesn't use a computer. But I find that the overdrive isn't really needed with an automatic, so if I were to do it over again, I would just install a pushbutton 727 so I could still get park and use the buttons. Using the buttons & having park too on this overdrive trans is more trouble than it's worth so I'm shifting it with a hand cable instead. When the time comes that I stop using it to tow my camping trailer in the mountains, and I can live without park, I'll hook it up to the pushbuttons again.

By the way, I think I figured out why the motor would backfire under load. Once I took it apart, I found that the timing chain was VERY loose. Makes sense, but I tried measuring the slack with the distributor and only measured five degrees of play so it didn't sound bad. But checking out the chain directly, it feels pretty loose. I'll try measuring the slack at the cam and see how it compares, but I suspect that I just didn't measure it accurately enough at the distributor.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-01-19 1:17 PM (#593192 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: RE: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
The motor is finally starting to come together on this seemingly never-ending project. Got the heads back from machining & assembly and put them on, along with the new Isky camshaft. I moved the motor over to get the left side header installed too. I had to remove all the exhaust studs on that side to make it work. Hopefully I can get this thing together again soon and get started on the cam break in.



(56Plym Heads On.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Plym Heads On.jpg (191KB - 509 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-01-26 11:47 AM (#593407 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: RE: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I got the exhaust installed, bolted and welded up yesterday. It took me 2 hours to get one bolt on the left side done because I didn't leave enough clearance to the pipe. So it made it very picky about the positioning of the wrench to install it. I had to modify the backside of the left motor mount to make room for it. But all the rest went in easier than I expected once I made an extra long Allen wrench socket from a crap Chinese Harbor Freight one and a good US made ball head Allen wrench. The Chinese ball socket doesn't swivel worth crap. They put the wrong dimensions on it for some reason. The left header is angled down more and required a bend in the pipe. I just cut a section and welded it in at an angle to compensate for it since the angle isn't large. My upside down welding skills aren't the greatest, but they should work well. While the car has been on jackstands, the trans fluid started leaking out the speedometer cable for some reason. I had replaced all those seals when I first installed the trans so they shouldn't be bad already. But I purchased new seals for it and will install them next week to keep it from leaking any more.



(56Plym New Headers Installed.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Plym New Headers Installed.jpg (146KB - 492 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-02-07 12:22 AM (#593902 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: RE: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I'm wrapping up the final assembly on the engine bay now. Getting close to doing the cam break in. I cleaned up these truck valve covers and painted them silver instead of gold to more closely match how Chrysler would have installed one of their motors into a '56 Plymouth, had they done so back then. I also tried to clean up and paint a lot of the engine bay parts & inner fenders, to make it more presentable than it was. Eventually, I'll get to re-painting the air cleaner as well.

It turned out that the trans was leaking through the speedometer gear because the plastic Chevy gear had worn a grove around it that the fluid passed through. So I purchased a new gear with a few less teeth to make the speedometer more accurate and replaced it. It doesn't leak anymore so far, but I won't know for sure until I get more fluid into the trans. The alternator wiring revealed a section of old original wires that had disintegrated insulation on one section so I have to replace that harness before I can go any further. Hopefully I can get it all done & ready to go by the weekend.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-02-07 12:30 AM




(56Plym Engine Assembled.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Plym Engine Assembled.jpg (222KB - 470 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-27 7:54 PM (#600207 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I broke in the cam quite a while ago and all went well, took it for a drive and was really amazed at how much more power the car has now. Really very impressive just from a valve job, new headers, and cam change. Feels like a whole new car now and really moves when the 4bbls kick in. But I noticed that there was more than acceptable valve train noise coming from the right side of the motor. Because of the virus, I haven't driven it since then. It's just been sitting here waiting for me to need it. But next week, I am planning to take it camping so I decided to tear into the right valve cover and find out what is causing the noise there.

I suspected that some of the lifters were bad and would need to be replaced so I purchased a couple of extras to have on hand. When I tore it apart, I found that there as very little oil flow in the rockers for some reason. So I removed the rockers and found that the head gasket was partially blocking the flow for some reason. I took a long drill and cut through it by hand until I could clear it out. There was some sludge that had built up there too. I took the opportunity to test the lifters with the rockers off. Each lifter seemed tight and I wasn't able to push any of them down with my hands. So I didn't bother to remove the intake & replace any of them.

Afterward, I put the rockers back on and started it up without the valve covers. Air started bubbling at the end of the rocker shaft and blew out quicker with higher rpm. Soon, it filled up and I had oil coming from the rockers as it should. So clearing that head gasket seemed to solve the problem. But I still had quite a bit of valve tappet noise. I measured the gaps between the rockers and it was very large - like around .025" to .028". I wouldn't think it should be more than .005" with hydraulics, correct? It's odd, because if anything, they should be too tight as I removed .005" of material when I surfaced the heads. Anyway, I learned my lesson here. Always purchase the 3/8" adjustable pushrods & lifters. The bigger lifters are a lot cheaper too. Don't bother with using the original stuff. Fortunately, that's what I am doing with my 392 build. I'll have to see about purchasing some adjustables for this one now too to tighten up those clearances.



(56Plym Tappet Noise.jpg)



(56Plym Rocker Bubbles.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Plym Tappet Noise.jpg (160KB - 442 downloads)
Attachments 56Plym Rocker Bubbles.jpg (201KB - 437 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
samstrader
Posted 2020-06-28 9:37 AM (#600231 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 443
10010010010025
Location: Beaumont TX
This is very interesting and very timely for me Powerflite. I have a 1955 259 V8 Poly head and I have too much slack at my rockers and noise and mine was due to zero oil going to the rockers because my cam bearings were installed wrong for that side. I can totally relate to the blockage from the head gasket and completely understand the problem.

I'm going to order new push rods from Smith Brothers to replace my worn push rods. I have already bought all new rockers from several places and I have a good shaft, so I just need push rods. I think original length push rods might be too short because I think but don't know for sure that the valve stem wore down a little when the engine was running without oil up there. Do you think I should get adjustable push rods made or just some solid rods that are just a little longer. I have not ordered yet because I'm trying to decide what to do to fix it right.

Thanks

Sam
Top of the page Bottom of the page
bbdakota
Posted 2020-06-28 9:54 AM (#600235 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Veteran

Posts: 129
10025
If I'm understanding your post, you have. 025-.028 clearance with hydraulic lifters? In general, I believe hydraulic lifters should have about. 020 preload. I see you had .005 removed from the heads. Did you check the old head gasket thickness compared to the new head gaskets? I ask because my 315 poly still had steel shim gaskets and the composite replacement gaskets were much thicker. I had. 025 taken off the heads just to compensate for gasket thickness difference.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56D500boy
Posted 2020-06-28 10:34 AM (#600256 - in reply to #600207)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9854
5000200020005001001001002525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
.
Just checked the original spec on tappet clearance in the 58 Chrysler FSM: 0.060 to 0.210 inches. Huge!





(58ChryslerHydraulicTappetClearance_1.jpg)



(58ChryslerHydraulicTappetClearance_2.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 58ChryslerHydraulicTappetClearance_1.jpg (109KB - 446 downloads)
Attachments 58ChryslerHydraulicTappetClearance_2.jpg (182KB - 441 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Mopar1
Posted 2020-06-28 11:15 AM (#600258 - in reply to #600207)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert

Posts: 3027
2000100025
Location: N.W. Fla.
Powerflite - 2020-06-27 6:54 PM

, and cam change.

I suspected that some of the lifters were bad .
Why would you suspect new lifters would be bad? Unless you reused the old lifters, if so your cam will be destroyed by them. You have to use new lifters.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-28 12:08 PM (#600261 - in reply to #600231)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
Sam, I would definitely recommend purchasing adjustable pushrods. That way you can always account for changes from the original length that can occur. The ones that Hot Heads sells only work with later style lifters that use 3/8" pushrods so keep that in mind. I will be looking to try to get some adjustable 5/16" pushrods if I can find any, just so I don't have to replace my lifters at this point.

Scott, yes, I believe you are correct that I need preload with no clearance. What I have is definitely too large. You are also right that the new head gasket is thicker than the original and that may be the cause of most of my problem. What's odd though is that the left side seems to be OK - at least it isn't making any noise.

Dave, that is dry tappet clearance which is when the tappet is completely empty of oil. That's not really relevant here.

George, of course I replaced the lifters with new ones. I'm not that dumb. But I had 2 bad lifters right out of the box, and I used 2 that were marginal. I fully expected those two to be the cause of the problem, but they were holding pressure just fine
Top of the page Bottom of the page
samstrader
Posted 2020-06-29 6:02 AM (#600296 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 443
10010010010025
Location: Beaumont TX
Thanks Nathan, I'll see if Smith Brothers can make adjustable push rods for my car. I'm calling them tomorrow. Checked my push rod lengths today with a dial micrometer. I don't know the total length but the difference in mine that were damaged and tapping and the ones that were not damaged and not tapping was .010, 10/1000... I'm going to do some more checking tomorrow but you were asking about clearances and this might be one reference point that could help you. I'll also ask Smith Brothers if they can make adjustable push rods in 5/16 diameter rods for you.

Edited by samstrader 2020-06-29 6:03 AM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
22mafeja
Posted 2020-06-29 12:02 PM (#600299 - in reply to #600296)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Elite Veteran

Posts: 640
50010025
Location: Finland
Once I had annoying valve train noise on a 331 Hemi. It took a while until I understood that my lifters had the oil inlet groove on wrong height so no or very less oil came in to the lifters.
This was cured by widening the groove. This was 1986 or so so I had a good used cam and good used lifters. The engine was in boxes when I bought the car but I didn`t suspect
that the lifters were of wrong model. Nothing is impossible..
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56D500boy
Posted 2020-06-29 12:28 PM (#600300 - in reply to #600261)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9854
5000200020005001001001002525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
Powerflite - 2020-06-28 9:08 AM
Dave, that is dry tappet clearance which is when the tappet is completely empty of oil. That's not really relevant here.


Okay. DUH. Now I know what "Dry Lash" means. Sorry about that. Live and Learn. Too soon old, too late smart.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-29 4:26 PM (#600305 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I got off the phone with Hot Heads and they are getting me a set of adjustable pushrods with the smaller original style ends on them for my hydraulic lifters. So they can make them.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Mopar1
Posted 2020-06-29 4:39 PM (#600306 - in reply to #600261)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert

Posts: 3027
2000100025
Location: N.W. Fla.
Powerflite - 2020-06-28 11:08 AM


George, of course I replaced the lifters with new ones. I'm not that dumb. But I had 2 bad lifters right out of the box, and I used 2 that were marginal. I fully expected those two to be the cause of the problem, but they were holding pressure just fine
The way you phrased it I wasn't sure. When I redid my 331 a couple years ago one box had just the lifter body in it!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-29 5:59 PM (#600307 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
Yeah, I don't doubt it. Lifter quality has definitely been on the decline. I stay away from Comp Cam lifters too because of all the bad stories I've heard about them.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
samstrader
Posted 2020-06-29 6:16 PM (#600309 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 443
10010010010025
Location: Beaumont TX
Hi Nathan,

Smith Brothers can make the adjustable lifters for you too. Here's the reply to the question I sent them. I got the lead on Smith Brothers from Hot Heads.

End sizes can vary from engine to engine. And yes, we can build 5/16 adjustable pushrods

Sam
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-06-29 7:21 PM (#600314 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
The tips that go into the lifter on the originals are 1/4" just so there is no confusion. The tip size is what matters more.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
samstrader
Posted 2020-07-01 2:16 PM (#600398 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 443
10010010010025
Location: Beaumont TX
Hi Nathan,

I talked to Smith Brothers again today. They can't make push rods with a 1/4 inch shaft. The smallest shaft they make is 5/16 inch. But they can put the tips I need on a 5/16 inch shaft. I measured my hole for the push rods and there is plenty of room to put a 5/16 inch shaft so I'm going to order the adjustable push rods. They will have the correct tip and have a 5/16 shaft. The price for the adjustable push rods is about the same as the solid push rod, by the way.

How will you set the length on your adjustable push rods? I guess there are several ways to do it but just wanted to know what you think is the right way to set the adjustment on an adjustable push rod.

Thanks,

Sam
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-07-04 1:45 AM (#600481 - in reply to #600398)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
Like I said, it is the tip size that matters even though previously, I was referring to the shaft size. I just received mine today from Hot Heads. They look to be good quality and should solve my problem. As far as the length, I just told Hot Heads what I needed - stock plus .03" and that's what he sent me. I'll try to install them next week. In the meantime, I am having too much fun with my car right now to tear it apart yet.



(Stock 331 Hemi Adjustable Pushrods.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Stock 331 Hemi Adjustable Pushrods.jpg (164KB - 446 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-07-04 2:04 AM (#600482 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I took the car camping at the beach and towed our teardrop trailer with it. We had a lot of fun and the motor worked really well, for most of the trip. Plenty of power and runs really well despite the ticking. But, I neglected to hook up the PCV valve so the dangling hose was sending fun fumes into my cabin as I was driving and the car overheated just as we arrived back home.

I connected the PCV hose up to solve the first problem. Old motors really are much more fun with a PCV despite what some might think. No more stink after that. The overheating seems to have occurred because the replacement freeze plug (o-ring style from Hot Heads) was slightly leaking most of the trip and slowly drained out most of the coolant in the motor until it started to run hot. As we pulled up the long hill toward my house, it didn't have enough coolant left to keep it cool. After cooling off and refilling with coolant, the experience didn't seem to hurt it and the freeze plug seems to have sealed itself shut now as I haven't been able to get it to leak again since refilling it. I'll take it to a non-car show tomorrow and monitor it to see how it goes.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-07-04 2:07 AM




(56Savoy Beach Camp Front.jpg)



(56Savoy Beach Camp Rear.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Savoy Beach Camp Front.jpg (228KB - 431 downloads)
Attachments 56Savoy Beach Camp Rear.jpg (256KB - 430 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
samstrader
Posted 2020-07-04 1:29 PM (#600494 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 443
10010010010025
Location: Beaumont TX
That sure is a cool and fun set up you have. And a beautiful camping spot too. Looks like a great time in the making.

Thanks for sharing the photo of the adjustable push rods. I can sure see how that is indeed the only way to go. Perfect...
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-07-22 4:39 PM (#601183 - in reply to #600494)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
Thanks Sam. This was a spot just North of Malibu that has camping just off the beach.

I replaced the pushrods and adjusted them to zero lash + 1/2 turn preload. When I started the car, it ran quite noisy, but most of it quieted down pretty quickly except a couple on the left side. Those eventually quieted as well once the motor warmed up a little. So it's now running the way it's supposed to, but the car seems to want to run hotter than it did before I rebuilt the top end of the motor, for some reason. I am eventually planning to add A/C to this car and that will increase the heat load further. So I bought a new radiator for it and am waiting for it to arrive. The radiator I chose is made for a '62-'64 Buick that is surprisingly similar to the '62-'65 Mopar radiator, but has the correct 1.75" inlet & outlet in the proper positions for the hemi motor transplant.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-07-22 5:04 PM




(62-64 Buick KKS Radiator.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 62-64 Buick KKS Radiator.jpg (53KB - 430 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
samstrader
Posted 2020-07-23 3:59 PM (#601230 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 443
10010010010025
Location: Beaumont TX
I'm glad the adjustable push rods worked good. I'll bet the reason they were noisy at first was because it took a long time for the oil to fill up the rocker assembly shaft. I'm glad it is good for you. When you say zero lash plus 1/2 turn, does this mean to tightened the push rods with the engine not running until the clearance between the rocker and the valve was basically zero and then add one half turn to make the push rod a little longer and make the push rod tighter. I'm just trying to make sure I understand how to set the push rods. I think on mine that when the engine is off the push rods are pretty loose and they tighten up when the oil pressure comes up. Just want to make sure I understand right.

I was planning to use a dial micrometer to set all the push rods the same length after I found the right length but your way seems to be a better way to compensate for different slack places in the engine.

I think that radiator will solve all of your problems. I have to old kind but wish I would have gone with aluminum. They have a lot more cooling capacity I've heard. It will be interesting to find out from your conversion and then we will know for certain.

Camping near Malibu must be nice. I lived in El Segundo for a while and my daughter looked at going to Pepperdine. Really a beautiful place there.

Thanks,

Sam

I found this procedure for setting valve lash on the internet. Looks pretty easy.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/setting-valve-lash-on-hyd...




Edited by samstrader 2020-07-23 4:09 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-07-23 4:40 PM (#601233 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I think you're right about filling the oil in the rocker shaft. The lifters that need the extra pressure just didn't come up until the rocker shaft was re-filled. You've got the basic idea right for adjustment. That website description is a little different because it's for a Chevy. The only thing you have to be careful about is if the motor has cooled off for a while, the lifters may not still be pressurized, so its easy to go too far. This was my procedure:
1. Remove the distributor cap (but keep the wires on it) and rotate the engine to the #1 cylinder firing.
2. Loosen the pushrods for #1 until you feel significant, obvious slap on the valve. If you start with the pushrods obviously too short, but with the locknut loose, that will save the most time.
3. Put a 3/8" wrench on the base of the pushrod to prevent it from rotating and rotate the adjuster with your fingers until you notice it becomes a little harder to turn. Check the transition with the slap. If the lifter has lost its pressure, you will still be able to move the rocker up and down, but it will no longer slap on the valve like it could with extra clearance. Once you get a feel for the change in difficulty to adjust the screw when you come to zero clearance, it will be more obvious.
4. Then get a second, cheap 3/8" wrench and bend the head of the open end at a 30 degree angle. This will help you to get to the intake adjuster on a hemi motor. Use that to turn the adjuster another 1/2 turn. You may have to do it in two 1/4 turn steps on the intake because of a lack of room.
5. Then tighten the lock nut down using your fingers first, and then tighten with the bent wrench.
6. Turn the motor to the next cylinder by checking the distributor rotor, or by going 90 degrees as the article says and repeat until they are finished.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
samstrader
Posted 2020-07-26 3:49 AM (#601327 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 443
10010010010025
Location: Beaumont TX
Thanks for this Nathan. This is very helpful for me. I just have one question about the lifter leaking down. I'm thinking all of my lifters leak down pretty fast so I think I would be setting the lash when the lifters have no pressure. And I noticed when I was running the oil pump with a drill that some of the push rods jumped up some when the oil pressure came up. I may not be understanding right but is there a way to tell if the lifters have leaked down. I am asking this because I am understanding that you have to set the lash when the lifter has not leaked down. If you set the lash when the lifter is leaked down, the push rod will be too tight, or too long so to speak, and your valve won't close. Am I thinking right? I'm just trying to make sure I understand.

Thanks again...
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-07-26 5:11 AM (#601329 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
If you follow my procedure, you can adjust them properly even when they have leaked down.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
samstrader
Posted 2020-07-26 3:02 PM (#601366 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 443
10010010010025
Location: Beaumont TX
Thanks Nathan. I think I understand now...
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-10-09 8:22 PM (#604255 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I decided to install the aluminum radiator in this car now. Out of the four '56 Plymouths that I recently purchased, none of them came with a radiator. Since this car is more modified than the others, I will use the aluminum one here and free up the original radiator for one of the other cars. The Buick radiator doesn't come with any mounting brackets on it, just an aluminum channel on each side with 2 holes in it. I bent up these brackets for it that will mount the radiator in the stock (angled) location using the stock mounting points, and mounted them to the holes in the sides of the radiator that I threaded. The threads are not very strong so I may need to add a couple of screws to ensure it doesn't come loose. After I install it into the car, I will make up another sheet to spot weld over the top of these brackets, just like the original. And then I will paint the brackets black and probably paint the top of the radiator black as well.....or I may just leave it like this for a while to see if I can live with it or not.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-10-09 8:25 PM




(56 Plymouth Aluminum Radiator Brackets.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56 Plymouth Aluminum Radiator Brackets.jpg (235KB - 367 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-10-13 6:07 PM (#604432 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I finished installing the aluminum radiator in my Savoy this weekend. I made the top piece to cover the hole left there by the brackets and welded it to the side brackets. I filled in the triangular gaps as well, which the original didn't do. I had to reduce the spacer under the fan to increase the clearance to the radiator. Gates 22896 from a 2004-08 Durango worked perfectly for the top hose without any modification, and Gates 23327 from a '06-'08 3/4 ton Silverado worked OK for the bottom hose after cutting it, although not perfectly. The radiator is wider than the original (the same width as the opening) but shorter than the original too. Next time I may try a '56 Ford radiator which is taller, but not as wide and see how I like that. The nice thing about the Ford radiator is they make it look stock, but the top tank does have a distinctive Ford look to it because of how wide it is. I used this one because I already knew how well it cooled and I really need to use this car to tow my camping trailer so we can have fun this weekend. I am hosting our first vintage camping event on Route 66 so I need to get there without overheating issues. Because time was short, I also had to do the install & modification while the paint was still partly wet, so there are small fingerprints & other irregularities in it that I couldn't avoid. I also didn't have time to paint the top tank either, but would definitely prefer it to be black rather than polished aluminum. My super expensive overflow tank moved from the driver's side to the passenger side and I haven't had a chance to secure it down yet either. Overall, it doesn't look bad, but not nearly as neat as my old one.

I tried it out last night by taking a hard run up the grapevine and it didn't even think about overheating. Nice. That's what I like to see. I don't know why my original suddenly crapped out on me, but it sure is nice not to have to deal with these issues and I feel a lot better about towing my camper, gear & family around in the heat now. I'll try to make it look a little less obvious as I get more time to work on it.

Edited by Powerflite 2020-10-13 6:57 PM




(56Savoy Aluminum Radiator Installed.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Savoy Aluminum Radiator Installed.jpg (163KB - 372 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
22mafeja
Posted 2020-10-14 2:42 AM (#604436 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: RE: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Elite Veteran

Posts: 640
50010025
Location: Finland
There is for sure nothing that makes ones camping feeling go away as well as overheating...good looking radiator....I would also paint the top. Are you going to prime with a thin layer of epoxy
and paint wet on wet? That works at least for me. Cool to have your fingerprints on it if the maker has to be found in the future...
About the overflow tank you can claim that the price-quality ratio is top notch...
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2020-10-15 11:54 AM (#604480 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
You got that right Ralf. Car troubles very easily ruin a vacation; especially when you are towing a trailer, because you might have to get 2 tow trucks to rectify the situation.

The gray NOS seat covers I had installed a while ago didn't last long before they began falling apart. We wrapped a blanket around them for a while to keep using the car, but my wife recently found some UV resistant upholstery fabric for $6/yard that closely matches the color of the car. She doesn't have an industrial sewing machine so she didn't add any vinyl or piping, but just sewed up some good seat covers for the car and I installed them yesterday. I think they came out great and look quite good for spending less than $50 on it. If I eventually end up moving to a bigger place, I'll have room to buy her an industrial and we'll make a more original looking version. We'll also modify the pattern to make some improvements for the next run.



(56Savoy Homemade Seat Covers.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Savoy Homemade Seat Covers.jpg (148KB - 359 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
22mafeja
Posted 2020-10-16 2:18 AM (#604512 - in reply to #604480)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Elite Veteran

Posts: 640
50010025
Location: Finland
The seat covers look good...far nicer than blankets for almost no cost. For you with about 10 cars needing interiors it is almost a must to get a sewing shop for your wife(or yourself).
The interior making pricing imo is horrible so everybody who is willing to accept cheaper materials and willing to learn to do the work themselves can save big dollars.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-09 4:28 PM (#608676 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
Thanks Ralf, these seat covers have been really nice compared to the old deteriorating ones. I don't drive much anymore, but this car is a lot of fun when I do.

I decided that since this car has a Fury-like stripe on the side of it, that I would make it more Fury-like and add the bumper wings to the rear. I have an NOS right side wing that I purchased eons ago, but I had to extract the left side wing from the rusty Fury to use on here. The inside of the wing was very deeply pitted in many places and there is like pitting on the bumper in those locations. The reason is this sandwich of metals collects a lot of dirt in between them and there isn't a good way to prevent that from happening. With every car wash, rain, or dew that collects, it gets the dirt muddy in between and rusts out the metals. Let that be a lesson to all you Christine fans. Be sure to paint the insides of your bumper wings with a good sealer & top coat to prevent this from happening. The nickel/chrome plating on there isn't enough to protect it sufficiently. You should also paint the matching parts on the bumper for the same reason. Once these rust out or pit very deeply, it's really painful to try to fix them. But if you end up removing the wings, you can always use some acetone to remove the paint you put on, and the chrome underneath will be in better shape than the rest of the bumper, typically, rather than the other way around if you don't.



(56Fury Bumper Pits.jpg)



(56Fury Bumper End Pitted.jpg)



(56Fury Bumper End NOS.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Fury Bumper Pits.jpg (138KB - 317 downloads)
Attachments 56Fury Bumper End Pitted.jpg (112KB - 301 downloads)
Attachments 56Fury Bumper End NOS.jpg (124KB - 313 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56D500boy
Posted 2021-02-09 11:36 PM (#608696 - in reply to #608676)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9854
5000200020005001001001002525
Location: Lower Mainland BC
.
Thanks for posting that Nathan. Reminded me of when I rehabbed by 56 Dodge grill bars. (see below).

I was under the front of the 56 Dodge today, playing with my MAC S-84 Center Plane brake tool and I looked up at the underside of my front bumper. Some surface rust (less than the grill bars) so when the weather gets better, I think the bumper is coming off for the wire wheel and Tremclad treatment.

The three stages of rehabbing that I will use on my bumper:

1. Hand brush off most of the surface rust:



2. Chuck a wire cup brush in the drill and brush the h3LL out of the back of the item.



2B. (Which I didn't do on the grill bars). Spray/paint on Rust Stop Rust Converter and let dry.

3. Paint the back of the item with your favorite anti-rust paint:

Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-12 10:30 PM (#608815 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I've never used that Tremclad stuff. It sounds like it should work pretty well. I painted the bumper ends in preparation for the wings to go on tomorrow.



(56 Savoy Bumper Wing Prep.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56 Savoy Bumper Wing Prep.jpg (66KB - 309 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-13 1:51 PM (#608857 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
Kind of lousy lighting for a picture, but the bumper wings look good on there. I should have installed some a long time ago, but I wasn't sure I would like it. Being around all these Furys has got me to appreciate them more. The right side seems to be angling downward a little. I may have to use a jack to tweak it upward a bit. It is mounted properly, but I think my original bumper isn't quite straight.



(56 Plymouths.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56 Plymouths.jpg (201KB - 313 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2021-02-16 12:55 PM (#608993 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
Took the car down to San Diego to hang out with Gary Pavlovich, buy some parts and talk about '56 Plymouths & poly motors. The motor is burning more oil than it should and starting to show its age, but working well & pulling strong otherwise.



(56 Savoy Visit.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56 Savoy Visit.jpg (194KB - 300 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56' Savoy
Posted 2021-03-04 5:08 PM (#609496 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Member

Posts: 30
25
Hi Mr Powerflite,just recently discovered your blog,and naturally find it very interresting since I have the same car. I see you have responded to a problem I have with overheating the flathead six on another blog,and I appreciate that. Would really love to have my car like yours,with the Hemi and all,but that won't happen,just have to many cars,and too little money.you know. As you may have understood,I also have a 55' 2dr Plaza wagon in sorry shape,but it will have a Hemi, the tiny 241 Dodge.
See you have 56' Fury in your yard..wow ! Is it in nice shape ?
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2021-03-04 5:44 PM (#609499 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
Welcome to the board! I actually have 2 1/2 Furys. I only have half of the last one because I parted most of it out. The yellow car & white car in the photo above are both Furys. I am planning to put a 325 hemi into the yellow Fury and a 318 poly stroked out to 390-ish in the white car. Both are projects, but the white one is in better shape. The yellow one is missing most of the side trim, so that's a bummer. I am also currently working on a pink/white '56 Belvedere coupe for my daughter. You can see them in these threads:

Pink Belvedere: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=74478&...
White Fury: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=74533&...
Yellow Fury: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=74451&...
Parted out Fury: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=74558&...
Top of the page Bottom of the page
56' Savoy
Posted 2021-03-07 4:34 PM (#609611 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth


Member

Posts: 30
25
I'm just finished reading trough your threads,and wow ! you are a real craftsman,and really get things done ! So impressed,and wish I had some of your energy..I like all your 56's Plymouths,and of course the Fury is the ultimate dream..felt sorry one of them went to scrap,but that was until I saw the pictures,it was too far gone. Seems like you have done some disc brake conversions,just wonder if you have found the key as to how to make them work good? Nothing but problems with my setup,the soft pedal.and lack of stopping power is a real dissapointment..
Looking forward to follow your threads in the future !
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2021-06-21 1:41 AM (#612947 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
I assume that you've found my disc brake instructions by now. If not, it is here: http://forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=75631&post...

I replaced my tail light bulbs with some LED's and they have been working well. But I recently noticed that they are always on with some small leakage current going into them. It's a really small amount so it never drains my battery, even in the course of 2 weeks, but still, I don't like it. Anyone else had this problem and have a solution?

By the way, I may be offering this car up for sale soon in order to generate some money to purchase a new house.

Edited by Powerflite 2021-06-21 1:43 AM




(56Savoy LED Leakage.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments 56Savoy LED Leakage.jpg (19KB - 224 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Burnemup
Posted 2021-06-25 11:14 AM (#613087 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Veteran

Posts: 140
10025
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Nathan, Was the aluminum radiator that you used and/or plan on adding A/C to your car a 2-core? I just reassemblied the front end of my 270 Hemi(timing chain replacement} in my 55Dodge and have corrected the orientation of the compressor. I have always had over heating issues with this, when I had the radiator rebuilt a number of years ago( stock 3core to a 4core). It still gets overheated, no matter what I do. I have duel A/C Units(rear deck unit and a front under dash unit). I'm trying to get the car dependable during the Summer(not working the past two years). Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ernir
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Burnemup
Posted 2021-06-25 11:17 AM (#613088 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: RE: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Veteran

Posts: 140
10025
Location: Simi Valley, CA
I just reread my post and I can't even spell my name right!

Ernie Baily ernestbaily@ att.net



(My 55 CRL Motor.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments My 55 CRL Motor.jpg (168KB - 215 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Mopar1
Posted 2021-06-25 11:20 AM (#613089 - in reply to #613087)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert

Posts: 3027
2000100025
Location: N.W. Fla.
Burnemup - 2021-06-25 10:14 AM

I have always had over heating issues with this, when I had the radiator rebuilt a number of years ago( stock 3core to a 4core). It still gets overheated, no matter what I do.

Thanks,
Ernir
What degree thermostat are you running?
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Burnemup
Posted 2021-06-25 11:31 AM (#613090 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Veteran

Posts: 140
10025
Location: Simi Valley, CA
I have a 160 thermostat. I was thinking about putting a electric pusher fan on the front, but that just means that their is one more thing blocking the air flow. I currently have a electric fan & shroud instead of the original fan setup supposedly rated for a 500hp engine(from Vintage Air).
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Powerflite
Posted 2021-06-25 11:44 AM (#613092 - in reply to #480421)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert 5K+

Posts: 9604
500020002000500100
Location: So. Cal
The aluminum radiator is a 2 core, but you shouldn't gauge it by that because aluminum vs. brass are completely different from each other. Practically all aluminum radiators are 2-core and they will easily out-perform any 4-core brass radiator. If you are having overheating issues, the aluminum radiator will very likely solve your problems. They are just way more efficient than a brass radiator. They can look really stupid, unfortunately, but if you purchase one of the KKS radiators with rounded tanks and paint the top tank black, they won't look as out-of place. I used one for a '62-'64 Buick just because the mopar versions were out of stock. But the best radiator to use would be the '62-'65 B-body mopar radiator. It will fit & work the best for you. Just make sure the lower & upper hose positions are correct for you before you purchase. You'll have to come up with new mounts for your electric fan. Don't use the plastic tabs that stick through the core to mount it. Bad idea.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
57burb
Posted 2021-06-25 11:46 AM (#613093 - in reply to #613090)
Subject: Re: Hemi Powered '56 Plymouth



Expert

Posts: 3966
200010005001001001001002525
Location: DFW, TX
I've never seen an aftermarket electric fan that worked worth a flip. Find an OEM electric fan that fits your radiator instead, or go back to a stock mechanical fan with a shroud. And if you decide to go electric, be sure you're using a relay to deliver maximum current to the fan.

Be sure the cooling system is completely full of coolant. It's not always easy to get out the last bit of air.

The 160 thermostat may be fighting you too. I have heard arguments both ways on whether to run a high or low temp 'stat, but I have always had good luck with 195 thermostats in all my cars. The engine temperature is just more stable, and that allows you to properly tune the timing and fuel curve for the consistent temp. I could not care less about peak horsepower on a cruiser with a/c. Or if I did, I'd let the engine cool off before strapping it down to a dyno or making a pass at the drag strip.

And finally, the radiator is only going to cool the coolant if there is sufficient airflow through it. It is equally important that there is a path for the hot air to escape. Take a look at how air is moving into and out of your engine compartment. Be sure you have a seal at the hood to stop air from going over the top of the core support, instead of passing through the radiator.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1 2 3 4
Now viewing page 3 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

* * * This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated * * *


(Delete all cookies set by this site)