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Member
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Location: temperance, MI | I have a 61 dart and have started to pull down the front suspension to paint it and replace anything that's going bad. This is the first time I have worked on mopar suspension so this may be a no brainer for some, but some input would be nice.
The driver side lower ball joint is sloppy, the others are good and tight. I know that I have seen someone post a socket size in the threads somewhere, but I can't locate it and I've tried using the sites search function. Can someone post what one of the three sizes that are avalible it would be? Or did they use two diff sizes in the forward look cars?
I'd like to replace all of the bj's since the fronts down this far. So, would it be easier to buy the socket and remove/replace the bj's, or easier to release the torsion bars from the lower control arms and have a shop put the ball joints in? I only ask because I've read on alot of forums what a pita the threaded bj's can be as far as the force required to remove, re-seat them, and get them to go in square?
Any thoughts-Joe |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
    
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=46995&... , release the tension
and do all 4 . it'll make your life more simpler . once everything to dsconnected and apart , they tend to go a ton smoother , just a little more work -------------------------------------------later |
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Member
Posts: 43
Location: temperance, MI | Thanks Chuck,
I'm a little confused by your post, are you saying release the tension as in removing the torsion bars? To remove the lower control arms?
The upper arms are out of the car, spindles are off and just the lowers are still on the car. Thanks for the clarification-Joe |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | yes |
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Expert 5K+
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Location: Perth Australia | I had a real hard time with mine
I had the arms still attached to the K frame, no way would I have been able to do it if the wernt
Would have been even easier if the K frame was attached to the car
I may have had an exceptionally stubborn one though
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 rebuilt subfame 001s.JPG (103KB - 152 downloads)
rebuilt subfame 002s.JPG (110KB - 168 downloads)
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Location: North Australia | I have only done my car, bit if you have a sturdy work bench with a 6 " vice, plus a 3/4" drive breaker bar (with the correct socket) and a piece of pipe to extend the breaker bar you will get it done with the control arms out of the car. The ball joint socket for my 60 Imperial is 2 5/8" and I think they are all made 3/4" drive.
I set my arms up in the vice so the bar is pushed down to screw 'em out (and new ones in), just like Micks picture above. They were tight but doable. I set my arms up in the vice using some small hardwood blocks to ensure a good solid grip on the steel without crushing the formed steel
Pretty easy to restart the new ball joints in the thread cut in the control arms and get them tight. With the arms out of the car it will make it a lot easier to clean/lube /paint everything.
Steve.
Edited by 60 Imp 2015-08-02 11:22 PM
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Member
Posts: 43
Location: temperance, MI | Thank you for your responses, ball joints turned right out with an otc socket and a 1/2 inch drive impact, tried the breaker bar with a 4ft helper and couldn't get the vise to secure the arm, tried moving them around a few times and no luck, maybe my vise is Crap. but they came out with some air. The threads are good and new ones turn in nicely. The torsion bars slid right out after pulling the anchor bolt and swivel.
I guess that's one more reason I'm thankful this was a California car. Whats your opinion on putting the ball joints back in? Neverseize or blue loctite? Would this be wise or a bad decision? Thanks for your input gents-Joe |
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Location: North Australia | I used Neversieze, and snugged them down tight. (Snyzen tight!)
Don't forget to centralise the LCA's working stroke before tightening the LCA shaft lock nut. This is to minimise stress on the LCA rubber bushing.
Steve. |
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Need some opinions please
