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Veteran
Posts: 291
 
Location: Rochester, NY | I've pulled both rear brake drums due to a leaking wheel cylinder on driver side. I plan on replacing both wheel cylinders regardless.
The axle seals do not appear to be leaking...so my question is this: Since I plan to remove backing plates to clean them up...should I replace the outer axle seals (that are mounted on backing plate)?
I know there are inner axle seals too but I do not feel I should go through pulling the axles to fix some thing that isn't broken. Would this be common practice to do this?
Bob |
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Veteran
Posts: 291
Location: Rochester, NY | OK...here is a better question. How do I know if the inner seals need replacing? When I pulled the driver side backing plate...gear oil dripped out. Is that normal?
I'm confused...because the inner oil seal should keep oil in the axle housing away from the bearing that sits just outside of it...but the bearing needs oil...correct?
If someone could explain the workings of this design I'd really appreciate it. Once I replace this wheel cylinder I don't want to go back in to fix leaking axle seal(s).
Thanks...Bob |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 6498
 
Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | Hi Bob: Was there fluid leaking out of the axle area before you took off the drum? If so, Then I would change the seal(s). If it was just brake fluid, I wouldn't worry about it. Gear fluid should stay behind axle until the axle is removed. Check the fluid level in the differential just to make sure its full. Marc.
Edited by mstrug 2015-08-28 7:48 AM
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Veteran
Posts: 291
Location: Rochester, NY | mstrug - 2015-08-28 7:44 AM
Hi Bob: Was there fluid leaking out of the axle area before you took off the drum? If so, Then I would change the seal(s). If it was just brake fluid, I wouldn't worry about it. Gear fluid should stay behind axle until the axle is removed. Check the fluid level in the differential just to make sure its full. Marc.
Hi Marc...Thanks for your reply. Well...before I took the drum off, the car was up on jack stands with wheels off for a few weeks. I caught what was dripping out with a little plastic cup and it appeared to very thin...I looked in master cylinder and the level had dropped so I assume it was brake fluid leaking out of wheel cylinder. When I removed the driver side drum there was a lot of fluid all over...inside drum...all over shoes and backing plate. I removed shoes, wheel cylinder with bracket and backing plate and then some very thick dark oil came out of bearing...I've cleaned bracket and backing plate and bolted it back in place to keep more oil from coming out. With backing plate back on/tightened now... I do not notice any oil dripping. I'll keep and eye on it obviously until I get my new wheel cylinders. Just wondering though...should oil come out of bearing area? Would this mean inner seal is bad? But...at the same time, it would be good for bearing to have lubrication right? Is inner seal supposed to hold most of the oil back and outer seal keeps it from leaking out into drum area?
I'd just hate to get a leaking axle after I replaced wheel cylinders and brake shoes...you know?
Bob |
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Expert
Posts: 3776
 
Location: NorCal |
The axle bearings are lubed with grease and the outer seal keeps the grease from contaminating the brakes. The inner seal prevents gear oil from leaking into the bearing cavity and diluting the grease into a thin grease/thick oil. Once oil has entered the bearing cavity it's harder for the outer seal to completely seal off the thinner lube. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | From the sounds of it (ok, the read of it  ), I would actually be doing both seals and bearings
As said above, if the grease in a wheel bearing is oil now, it means the inner seal has gone and if your going to do inner seals, you might as well do the bearings as well
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Veteran
Posts: 291
Location: Rochester, NY | ttotired...57chizler...thanks very much. I fully understand what's going on now. It's not the answer I wanted, but I too agree the axles need to be pulled and new seals and bearings should be installed. I hate fixing the same thing twice!
I'm coming up empty finding new inner/outer seals and bearings. Does anybody have a source other than Bernbaum? E-bay has the outer seals...but I'm thinking I should get the inner/outer seals and bearings all in one package from one source.
Thanks, Bob |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | Nothing wrong with doing the seals and bearings but it may be that the bearings are just fine and all you need is to clean and repack them and put in new seals. |
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Expert
Posts: 3776
Location: NorCal | I agree, the condition of the bearings/races can be determined after cleaning them....if they don't need replacing, save your money.
The seals are available from NAPA and Rock Auto.
Edited by 57chizler 2015-08-29 5:01 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 291
Location: Rochester, NY | Thank you...I appreciate your help...
Bob |
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Veteran
Posts: 291
Location: Rochester, NY | I'm at the point where I have put the rear drums back on. I cleaned the tapered area of the axle and mating portions of the drum centers with light sand paper and then scotchbrite...and then I lightly coated both surfaces with some Never-sieze. I take it tightening the nut down will pull the drum back in to where it's supposed to seat? The large nut has a hole in it for a cotter pin. Should I just hold the drum with one hand, while hitting the wrench with a hammer to tighten nut up all the way and then back off a touch, to line up the hole for the cotter pin? Unfortunately there's very little in the manual for this procedure...
Thanks, Bob |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8443
Location: Perth Australia | I tighten the nut up until its getting hard to turn, then continue on until I can fit the pin
You dont want to go to far or you can damage the threads
I wont get into the anti seize debate
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Posts: 291
Location: Rochester, NY | thank you! |
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Expert
Posts: 1476
Location: Pacific Northwest | My book says torque to a minimum of 145 f/lbs. (if'n ya want to get technical) |
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Veteran
Posts: 253
| If you want to be prepared for the future -- I have the Rear Inner, Rear Outer, and Pinion seals -- all nice N.O.S. seals -- very U.S.A. made --
much nicer than the cr%p they make today.... Not expensive either..... |
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1958 Plymouth Rear Brakes
