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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
  
Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | Seen this on Ebay usa, and wondering if it work be a direct bolt in and work on my 59 Dodge, which is running its Standard 4 Drum and Non Power Brakes..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331654322173?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649...
Dodge/Plymouth A,B & E body New 7" power brake booster with master cylinder. This system is a direct bolt on to your firewall and will connect directly to your brake pedal if you have a factory non power brake car. Cars with factory power brakes will require slight modification to make fit. New booster pushrod design requires NO cutting to clear firewall. Please email for instructions and firewall mounting template. This system will power front disc/rear drum, 4 wheel drum, and 4 wheel disc brakes. You will have to run the correct brake lines for this master cylinder as some models will have different line/fitting configurations. These are top of the line MBM parts not cheap knock offs. All parts come with a full 1 year warranty. See our other listings for other variations of this system.
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | He is also selling a 8" version as well
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331695750193?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649... |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
  
Location: Michigan | Go with the bigger one. I tried the smaller one first. The 7inch didn't provide much stopping power. I put a 9inch one on my 55 Chrysler. Stops like a modern car.
Edited by Beltran 2015-11-20 7:19 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1348
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Always wondered about these but I never looked into one as I remember reading hear a few years back that someone said that a 318 poly doesn't produce enough volume vacuum. Is that true? Any clearence issues with a 9" or larger? Being aftermarket, are repair parts or replacements readily available? Guess I can't stop in NAPA and have a replacement by tomorrow? Are they made to be rebuildable? 7" doesn't get the job done, what is the reccomended diameter or volume for 2+ tons?
Finally, and I'm sure this has been talked about before but, who has done this conversion, did it work the way you want, how much modifications involved, and what size did you use?
I also am interested.
Thanks for any info and HAVE A HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
Karl. |
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Expert
Posts: 3776
Location: NorCal |
I've never used on of those but I've often wondered what pedal ratio is best with them. The typical FL manual brake pedal ratio is 8-1 which seems kinda high for power brakes. |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | I don't see how the 318 poly could not produce the required vacuum. The vacuum is produced ahead of time and stored. WHen you put the brakes on it gets used. And when you take your foot off the gas and start coasting at the same time as you start to brake, the engine is really producing vacuum as it's being driven by the wheels with the throttle plate closed. |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | My 55 chrysler
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Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | First pic shows the 7" compared to the original 55 booster in size. The second one is what the 9" I put in afterwards looked like on the firewall. No clearance issues on the 55. |
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Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: Arizona | Is the red thing a residual pressure valve for the rears? |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | yes
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Posts: 1231
Location: York County, PA | Mark; where did you get your 9" and how much were they.
Edited by ruchaven 2015-11-22 9:05 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-2224nb
This is a dual diaphragm 9". The 7" I had was a single only. this made a big difference.
MC - Orielly Part NMC 1521
The Wilwood parts are from Summit as well.
Wil - 260-3279
Wil - 260-13190
All this is functioning in my 55 and working very well, with my AAJ front disk and standard rear drum. Pictures of all of it are in my thread in the members ride section.
Edited by Beltran 2015-11-23 6:44 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1348
Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Was it as simple a swap as it looks like from a distance or were there lots of unexpected issues? I'm running the same set up with AAJ fronts and drum rears. Other than bleeding, was it days or hours to do the full exchange?
Thanks again for any info,
Karl. |
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Expert
Posts: 1730
Location: Michigan | Well other than having to drill new holes in the firewall it bolted right in to the 55. Now the 57+ years I don't know how easy it would be. There are mounts involved and a completely different system. The 55 and 56 had a similar arrangement (kind of Forward Looking MC & Booster combined) which only lasted one year and then they went to this complicated looking booster diaphrams mounted on fenders etc. Only to come back to the same design we see in every car today.
I did not have to change anything inside the car. The brake mechanism was adapted perfectly. You can see two lines for the front disk and one line that feeds the rears with a residual pressure valve. You have to test hard braking to set the adjustment on the valve. Other than that it was pretty text book. |
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Veteran
Posts: 272
Location: Missouri | Do the proportioning valve and residual valve have to be mounted there for the best working brakes? I was going to mount the prop valve on a bracket to the inside of the frame, right under the dr. seat, in order to have the adjust. knob in front of my seat, and was going to plumb the Wilwood valve in the line to the rearend. My mc doesn't have the residual valve behind the drum port, and I'm using a manual disc/drum mc for a '72 Satellite, AAJ front, and '66 Monaco 3x11 drums rear. I'm also not sure about connecting the inline res. valve; is Teflon tape and/or paste needed, it doesn't have anything in the ends for the flares to seat on. I'm guessing adapters are required, but I'm leery of having too many line connections that would be prone to leaking.
Edited by 55coronet440 2016-01-01 1:42 PM
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Anyone tried this Power Brake Mastercylinder
