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Mechanical Brake Light Switch Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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ColoradoFiredome |
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Veteran Posts: 111 Location: Aurora, Co | Stop Swlitch leaks. 1 of the 1st problems I had to deal with in '99. The Brake Fluid, Not Silicon, shorted the Stop Switch. that caused the Brake Lights to stay on even when the car was turned off. My neighbor called me to say "Your Tail Lights are on". I was wondering why the battery was dead & the Tail Light Lenses were drooping. I've replaced the Stop Switch twice since then & I'm having a reoccurance of the same problem. This time I'd like to solve the problem permanently. A Mechanical Stop Switch is the obvious fix. What Mehanical Switch did you use?
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jimntempe |
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Expert Posts: 2312 Location: Arizona | THis is what I plan to convert to at some point. Do a google search on "lever brake light switch" and you'll get lots of hits for variations on this basic design. http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL76250-Lever-Switch/dp/... | ||
Viper Guy |
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Expert Posts: 2002 Location: Branson, MO | I don't know if this will help but I had a '67 Chrysler 300 that had a mechanical stoplight switch that was activated by the brake pedal arm. The switch was mounted stationary on a bracket near the steering column and the swing motion of the pedal arm activated the push button switch. Press the pedal down, the switch completed the circuit, and the lights came on. Let the pedal come back up and the circuit was broken when the arm hit the switch button and off went the lights. Much the same as the dome light switch activated by opening and closing the doors - simple but effective and should be an alternative for the hydraulic switch as probably every MoPar around these year models used the same design and should be readily available on eBay or other sources. Hope this helps. "It's delightful, it's delovely, it's DeSoto" | ||
KcImperial |
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Expert Posts: 2490 Location: Kansas City, KS | I've also used 67-68 Chrysler brake light switches on several of my Imperials as Viper Guy has described above. I don't know if they are the best option available but they were what I had laying around and they were easy to make work. I did make my own bracket for it as it was easier than modifying the later model bracket. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3768 Location: NorCal | http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Light-Switch-Mopar-2926275-5209927-64... | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | I bought a $7 generic aftermarket 2 wire switch at the auto parts place and a bracket at a hardware store and fastened it solidly to the column. The pressure needed to work the switch is slight so it doesn't have to be a REAL heavy metal bracket but does need to be rigid enough that it won't move. The only thing I did wrong and it took a year until it happened is that I didn't make the connections better. For some reason,I left the wires in the engine compartment and ran connectors off the stock ends then looped them back into the car so I wouldn't hurt the original wires but the other day someone said I didn't have any brake lights and tracked it down to poor connections there. I pulled the wires into the the car and ran them directly to the switch with proper slip on/bayonett connectors for good contact. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9605 Location: So. Cal | I ended up welding a small bracket to my pedal assembly because I didn't see a real good way to mount it otherwise. Welding underneath the dash is always a lot of fun. (BrakeSwitch.jpg) Attachments ---------------- BrakeSwitch.jpg (31KB - 131 downloads) | ||
MOPAR-TO-YA |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | You can buy a BLswitch that has a longer threaded neck on it with a jam nut. That allows for easy adjustment in case the bracket you fabricate is not located in just the right place. ................................MO. | ||
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