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Driveshaft boots again
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koob
Posted 2016-01-22 5:17 PM (#502010)
Subject: Driveshaft boots again



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Location: Bryan, TX

I have reviewed all of the posts on aftermarket driveshaft boots for the ball and trunion shaft and can't seem to find one that corresponds with my shaft diameters.  The big end where the boot goes on mine (56 dodge coronet) measures 2.30" and the small end measures 1.375. I have looked at all the dimensions on rock auto for the neon and others that y'all have listed but they seem to be to large on the big end and too small on the little end. Has anyone actually used any of these neon boots? How did they fit?  Thanks.

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hemidenis
Posted 2016-01-22 11:07 PM (#502041 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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they are selling theses on ebay at reasonable prices ...The are original repros..
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koob
Posted 2016-01-23 1:35 PM (#502090 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Location: Bryan, TX
Cool, I haven't checked there. Thanks.
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furvedere
Posted 2016-01-24 11:11 PM (#502199 - in reply to #502041)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Location: Rochester, NY
hemidenis - 2016-01-22 11:07 PM

they are selling theses on ebay at reasonable prices ...The are original repros..


Big M typed this (below) over at the CCC that these e-Bay rubber boots didn't last very long for him.

"Wayne,

Is the kit for the front driveline trunnion joint from E-bay? If so, I will warn you that the rubber boot will not last very long. I installed a new trunnion in my '59 this spring, and upon arriving back from my trip, discovered the rubber is completely disintegrated.

---John"

Here's the link blow...scroll down towards bottom of page and you'll see where the ball/truniion discussion comes up. There's a good alternative to the e-Bay boot as well. Check it out.

http://www.christinecarclubforum.com/t908p720-christine-s-revenge-b...

Best wishes...Bob
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koob
Posted 2016-01-27 3:10 PM (#502494 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Posts: 120
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Location: Bryan, TX
My problem is that all of them I have found are too big on the big end. I guess I will have to go to Bernbaum. Also, I am missing one needle bearing after counting them all. I have 123 and it takes 124. Anyone have some old ones they could mail me?.
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57plymouth
Posted 2016-01-28 6:40 AM (#502543 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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I used a cheap split CV boot from O'Reillys and cut it down to fit. It lasted about 7 years before it came apart.
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koob
Posted 2016-01-28 1:39 PM (#502570 - in reply to #502543)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Location: Bryan, TX

Were those the glue together kind? If so, you could cut it down to size and still get it to glue back together?

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60Mopars
Posted 2016-04-30 5:58 AM (#510524 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Posts: 37
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Location: Småland Sweden
Anyone know a source for a good quality front U-Joint kit for my 300F?
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wizard
Posted 2016-04-30 8:13 AM (#510528 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Janne, I have a Quick-fix for them - I'll bring one to the Nybro cruising this evening if I see you there....
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mikes2nd
Posted 2016-04-30 8:39 AM (#510531 - in reply to #502199)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again


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furvedere - 2016-01-24 11:11 PM
hemidenis - 2016-01-22 11:07 PM they are selling theses on ebay at reasonable prices ...The are original repros..
Big M typed this (below) over at the CCC that these e-Bay rubber boots didn't last very long for him. "Wayne, Is the kit for the front driveline trunnion joint from E-bay? If so, I will warn you that the rubber boot will not last very long. I installed a new trunnion in my '59 this spring, and upon arriving back from my trip, discovered the rubber is completely disintegrated. ---John" Here's the link blow...scroll down towards bottom of page and you'll see where the ball/truniion discussion comes up. There's a good alternative to the e-Bay boot as well. Check it out. http://www.christinecarclubforum.com/t908p720-christine-s-revenge-b... Best wishes...Bob

 

they suggest ..............'83 Dodge omni cv boots

there's 100 pages to that thread

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hemidenis
Posted 2016-04-30 9:24 AM (#510535 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Location: Northen Virginia
2001 Neon worked for me too, you have to cut it to fit, not sure but it was around here...



(FRONT-CV-Joint-Boot-Kit.jpg)



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Attachments FRONT-CV-Joint-Boot-Kit.jpg (29KB - 178 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2019-05-08 7:09 PM (#581951 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Looks like the Christine Car Club Forum no longer exists. I guess people love Zuckerberg instead. I assume that the neon and Omni boots were the outer ones, correct? I am going to attempt to pull the boot through the B/T housing as shown in the FSM.
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hemidenis
Posted 2019-05-13 11:28 PM (#582127 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Location: Northen Virginia
check if you can buy original OEM boots, those re-pros are hit or miss...
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Powerflite
Posted 2019-05-13 11:38 PM (#582128 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: RE: Driveshaft boots again



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Yeah, I used the Omni/Neon outer boot, part number Dorman 614-001. It came out great with high quality rubber and....cheaper than the repros with bad quality rubber.



(New Boot.jpg)



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Attachments New Boot.jpg (87KB - 54 downloads)
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normsclassicradio
Posted 2019-05-14 2:33 PM (#582142 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: RE: Driveshaft boots again



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Location: Kalispell, MT USA
I got the one Van's sells on e-bay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-56-57-58-59-60-61-62-63-64-65-Drive-S...


Edited by normsclassicradio 2019-05-14 2:38 PM




(joint boot.jpg)



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Attachments joint boot.jpg (9KB - 51 downloads)
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The Adventurer
Posted 2019-05-26 12:49 AM (#582526 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: RE: Driveshaft boots again



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Nathan do you slice the boot and then glue it together once its on , or do you actually slide/ force it over the joint like you do the originals ?

If so how easy does it slide over .
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Powerflite
Posted 2019-05-26 4:09 AM (#582530 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Cutting and gluing it together would be problematic. It isn't designed to do that. It is best to stretch it over the pin and shove it into the housing. Then pull it through the other side. The rubber is very pliable so it stretches quite easily. The benefit of using the neon version is the rubber is a much higher quality than the Vans reproductions.
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The Adventurer
Posted 2019-05-29 6:33 AM (#582648 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: RE: Driveshaft boots again



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Thanks Nathan
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normsclassicradio
Posted 2019-05-29 7:08 PM (#582669 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Location: Kalispell, MT USA
Yes, less than thrilled with the Vans one. Very hard to get it thru the housing without tearing it. But some RTV took care of that for now.
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1960fury
Posted 2019-05-29 7:13 PM (#582671 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Do NOT, N-O-T, forget the breather layer between the boot and shaft.
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Powerflite
Posted 2019-05-29 8:07 PM (#582678 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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I guess I forgot it. What is this breather layer you are referring to? I didn't see anything there when I removed my old one.
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1960fury
Posted 2019-05-30 8:38 AM (#582690 - in reply to #502010)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again



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Basically anything that allows the trunion to breath, I use felt. The FSM recommends jute. Don't ask me why and how but sometimes the boot blows up and explodes without some kind of breather. I found that out the hard way when I didn't follow the FSM.
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samstrader
Posted 2020-05-19 2:39 PM (#598475 - in reply to #582690)
Subject: Re: Driveshaft boots again


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My drive shaft joints are in excellent condition. These CV joints if lubricated correctly will last almost forever I believe. But I have had torn boots. I tried the Burnbaum boots that you install by slipping under and through the housing and I couldn't ever get them to go through. That didn't work. I bought the split boots and glued them together and they lasted a short while but the material finally got hard and they came all to pieces. I went to my local driveshaft doctor and they can convert the shaft to external cross type u joints for about $750.00. I didn't like this price so I studied some more and found something that really works great.

I bought the Dorman silicone boot that you slip over the whole drive shaft; see picture below. It's one piece and silicone and will last a long time. I didn't believe it would really work but I was amazed when it slipped right on. There are a few tricks to know about before you try and the internet has some videos to watch which will help. I'll list the key points.

1. Get a transmission funnel and cut it down so the big end is just big enough to fit over the end of the drive shaft. Sand it long wise so it is real smooth. I used 0000 steel wool.
2. Turn the boot inside out like the videos show.
3. Grease the funnel and the inside of the boot with Lubriplate 105. Or any oil you like I think. You don't have to use too much grease. When I say grease the inside of the boot, remember that this is really the outside of the boot but the boot is turned inside out.
4. Make sure the outside of the boot is real clean. You want to have a good grip on the boot and not have it slip so clean it so it won't slip in your hands.
5. Stand the drive shaft up on end, put the funnel over the end of the top of the drive shaft and put the boot on the funnel with the big side of the boot pointing down to the floor.
6. Grab the boot and pull down. It will surprise you have fast and easy it slips on. This step will take about 3 seconds. It is amazing.
7. Turn the boot inside out and trim it up and install the clamps. And you are done.

8. This is very important. This silicone boot is not as strong as original boots. One person commented that the boot flew all apart when he used it. These boots are designed for front wheel drive CV joints. On a drive shaft, these boots will spin 4 times faster than they will spin on a front axle, that is if you have a 4 to 1 rear end. So the centrifical force is going to be higher. The instructions say to pack the boot with grease. Don't do this. The original drive shaft boots were not packed with grease. Keep the grease in the housing like the original design and don't load up the new silicone boot with grease. You don't need grease in the boot. This boot is a dust and water cover. If you put a bunch of grease in the boot the weight of the grease will make the boot fail due to centrifical force. I've driven my car 75 MPH and the boot is still perfect. The only shortcoming is that this boot does not have the internal cone that keeps the grease in the housing and out of the boot like an original boot does.

This really worked good. The picture below is what I bought. Got it on Amazon for $16.00 but Oreilly has them for $26.00. They also sell a neoprene boot but I think the silicone will hold up to the elements a lot better. I think my boot will last for years but if it only lasted 1 year, that would be good enough because these are so easy to install.

I hope this helps....






(1111.jpg)



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