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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> The Exhaust Pipe - Modification & Performance | Message format |
canyouheminow |
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Veteran Posts: 139 Location: Lima,Ohio | I am installing a 700r4 on a 354 hemi using a hot heads adaptor. I installed the converter onto the trans first, then installed the trans onto the adaptor. The problem I have is that the converter is close to 3/8" from flexplate and if I move it toward flexplate I fear that I will pull it off pump lugs. I followed the directions with the adaptor and I am using the spacer and flexplate that came with the kit and can only be installed one way according to instructions. Anyone have any input as to what is going on. I have read of people using spacers between flexplate and flywheel but that seems the wrong way to go about it, any ideas? | ||
58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1739 Location: Alaska | You should contact Hot Heads and find out what they recommend since they sell the adapter. | ||
MOPAR-TO-YA |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5139 Location: cornpatch county, Southwest IOA | 58coupe - 2016-02-23 9:05 PM X 2 ..............................MOYou should contact Hot Heads and find out what they recommend since they sell the adapter. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9604 Location: So. Cal | I installed a 700R4 into my '56 Plymouth with a 331 hemi motor using the hot heads adapter. There is supposed to be a little play between the torque converter pushed all the way into the trans vs. mounted to the flywheel. This is the official spec: "Converter must rotate freely and must have end-play. Converter must be free to move a minimum of 1/8", but not more than 3/16". So if you really have 3/8", that is excessive. But I tend to doubt that you actually have that much play. The reason is that with the converter sitting on the shaft, it is sagging and makes the gap look bigger at the bottom than it really is. Put all the bolts in the converter, but as loose as possible. Then check the end play. If it is larger than 1/4", then just put a washer or two between the flexplate and torque converter. It won't hurt it to run it this way and it doesn't affect your starter geometry. Just make sure that you really need it by making sure the trans is fully bolted down and seated properly, and that the converter isn't sagging making the gap look bigger than it is. | ||
canyouheminow |
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Veteran Posts: 139 Location: Lima,Ohio | I contacted hot heads today and they told me the only time they have heard of any problems about excessive spacing was when using some aftermarket converters where the mounting lugs are too short. Tonight i will remove transmission and measure with a flat edge the space between bell housing and converter lugs, it is suppose to be 1 1/8" from bellhousing to pads. The converter is an aftermarket TCI, I will put longer bolts in to accurately measure The distance without sagging first. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3768 Location: NorCal | I don't see a problem; when you push the converter all the way into the trans you're positioning it further back than it was ever intended to be in service. Two things limit the rearward travel of the converter, either the drive hub bottoms in the pump housing or the converter bowl hits the pump housing casting. With some converter bowl shapes the converter will go back more than "normal" and this gives the impression that there's too much pull-up. | ||
canyouheminow |
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Veteran Posts: 139 Location: Lima,Ohio | After measuring the distance between converter and Flexplate with longer bolts it is still a full 3/8" between the two. Pulled transmission tonight and measured with strait edge and have 1 1/8" setback what is called for the 700r. Took converter off and measured cuts for pump engagement and they are 1/2" with a v cut on ends for easy engagement when installing converter. This only gives 1/8" of contact with converter and pump, and that is the area with the v cut in the slots of the converter. I am thinking of using parallel ground 10mm washers sold by ARP that are .120 thick just for piece of mind. Edited by canyouheminow 2016-02-25 11:00 PM | ||
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