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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 397
 
Location: Milano, Italy | Hi all, I have this question, what is the operating temperature of the radiator coolant in a stock 318 Poly? I added a 260 camshaft to my engine ('58 318 Poly) and it seem to run hot all the time. I mean if I add a temperatre gauge to the bottom of the radiator ( the only place suitable to weld a thread for that) I wonder what should I read on the gauge at operating temperature ? |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
  
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | If you run an 87º C thermostat then you should read approximately 87º C on the water neck when the Engine is hot.
Check this with a digital non-Contact thermometer.
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Expert
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Location: Netherlands | Was the camshaft 'degreed' when it was installed?
(I don't mean just 'lining up the dots', because that doesn't mean the cam is installed correctly.)
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | did it run cooler before the cam change . as a thought , the thermostats sold new today are mostly junk-----------------------------------------------later |
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Expert
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Location: Arizona | The best place for a temp sensor is where the water is hottest, which is more or less where it exists the engine and re-enters the radiator. That's why many cars put the temp sensor near the thermostat housing. If you put it in the bottom of the radiator I would guess it could read 20 degrees lower than the water that's coming in at the top. The "proper" operating temperature for an engine is around 195 degrees. Tests have shown that engines that run much cooler than that experienced significantly higher wear. |
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Extreme Veteran
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Location: Milano, Italy | thanks to all of you guys.
@ Wizard: Indeed I am afraid the thermostat I am using is 73°C (165°F ). I understand this is a mistake. It is dating the days of my last attempts to overcome the overheating problem.
@ BigBlockMopar: NO, I did not degree the cam when I installed it..... I just aligned the dots, assuming that Nielsen had already done its job by putting the dot in the right place.
The new set of timing gears I had also offered the possibility to advance or retard the cam by changing the key position, but I left it in the center position.
Should I rather advance it to run cooler?
@ 60 dart: Yes it was running cooler before the cam change, expecially at speed around 86 - 93 mph, (140-150 kmh) which is the highway standard here during the week, even if the official limit is at 80.
(Ok, this might sound funny outside Italy, of course we have to slow down at speed check points, but it's complicate to explain)
@Jimntempe: Yes I have the stock temp gauge with its sender at its stock position but the needle is a tad off to the right. So I guess it says more than 195 F ?Thanks for the info on the 20°C temperature difference between the inlet and the outlet of the engine. I will check my thermostat too, as I am afraid mine is a 165°F dating my last attempts to overcome the overheating problems.
What I am doing here is to place a sender near the outlet of the radiator (bottom) with a degree gauge on the ****pit, to check the effectiveness of the radiator cooling.
Any idea of what is the ideal temperature for the coolant to enter the engine to mantain the 195°F level?
@ all: I decided to do without the fan attached to the pump, to have less drag to the engine. So I am trashing the flex fan I have now for a set of four electric fans, 9" each, activated sequentially two by two, by a double-contact heat sensor placed again at the bottom of the radiator. The sensor would activated the first two fans at the top for normal city cruising (I hope) and the other two beneath the previous when the temp rises because the car is in city traffic or climbing the Alps.
With some more trial and error, I should arrive to balance the system. Probably I'll have to try several sensors....Unless the problem is in the camshaft....!
Your advices are much appreciated, friends.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 397
Location: Milano, Italy | I forgot to add, car has a stock converter, stock carburetor with a 1" spacer under it, homemade headers equal length, and 3.18 to the rear. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | are you timed at 10* BTC and are you sure the valves are set right , .010 & .018 ---------------------------------------------------later |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | As Chuck writes, double check that the timing is correct - even make sure that the #1 piston is in TDC position when the timing mark is on 0 degrees.
Then change the thermostat to an 87º C, check the radiator cap and replace it if you have any doubts.
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 397
Location: Milano, Italy | I believe we are going off topic as the start was about the cooling system.....
As for checking the timing, I am opening a new thread named "timing the engine by ear".
Still I am wondering if the camshaft is responsible for this overheating I have.
I read somewhere that when the exaust valve stays open for too long the flame front has the time to heat the cylinder longer, therefore a rise in temperature.....
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 8947
Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | they ARE related . bad timing will heat up a motor as will tappet settings , especially with a more performance cam --------------------------------------------------later |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 13045
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Timing and temperature ARE related indeed as Chuck informs. It's very important for an engine to have a proper timing/advance/vacuum setting.
This both for performance and for overheating problems.
A question though; you did only change the cam and tappets, right? A renovated engine will run a little hotter due to friction.... |
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coolant operating temperature
