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White 1958 Coronet Lancer
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-11 12:37 PM (#571498 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Thanks to John at BigM, I was able to pickup an E-brake light & switch for the car as well as a map light and the rest of the pad trim. The red lens is a little melted from the previous bulb, but it's livable. I haven't figured out what bulb it needs yet. It has 2 contacts on it, which is weird for a single sensor light. Anyone have a recommendation for a bulb or preferably a red LED light to put into here?

Edited by Powerflite 2018-10-11 12:40 PM




(Ebrake Light.jpg)



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wizard
Posted 2018-10-11 1:02 PM (#571502 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Most probably it's an insulated BA9s receptacle with one 12VDC power lead and one ground lead that Close the Circuit via the emergency brake switch.


I would mount a red BA9s LED - then you can forget all about high temperature, for instance https://www.amazon.com/BA9S-LED-Bulb-Auto-Accessory/dp/B008QDLFD4
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-11 2:04 PM (#571511 - in reply to #571498)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Powerflite - 2018-10-11 12:37 PM
Thanks to John at BigM, I was able to pickup an E-brake light & switch for the car as well as a map light and the rest of the pad trim. The red lens is a little melted from the previous bulb, but it's livable. I haven't figured out what bulb it needs yet. It has 2 contacts on it, which is weird for a single sensor light. Anyone have a recommendation for a bulb or preferably a red LED light to put into here?


I think that the issue with the melted lens is because the factory wired the warning light so it comes on in both ACC and RUN. So if you were sitting with the car and/or engine stopped in Neutral and eBrake engaged and the key turned to ACC so you could listen to the radio while you worked on the engine (or in the trunk), the eBrake warning light would be on the hole time = incandescent heat = melted plastic.

I went through looking for a replacement bulb for mine and found that it was a standard GE 90. That said, I am looking at a) re-wiring the eBrake warning light so it is only powered in the RUN position of the ignition, NOT ACC and b) looking for that BA9s LED bulb that Sven pointed out.

This is what I bought in the meantime:



REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=67931&...



Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-11 2:06 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-11 2:28 PM (#571515 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Thanks Sven & Dave. The GE 90 definitely looks like the correct bulb with 2 contacts on it, but the BA9s doesn't look like it will work because it only has one contact. So looks like we need a different LED than that one.
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wizard
Posted 2018-10-11 2:48 PM (#571518 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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The GE 90 is a BA15D bulb, hence bigger in diameter (15mm) than a BA9s (9mm).

Check the diameter first and if the receptacle has two poles (D) or one pole (S)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-11 5:54 PM (#571533 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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It looks like 1178 or 1142 are other numbers with similar specifications. The trick is to get an LED that is short enough to fit. This one looks like it should work for this purpose. I am going to purchase a pair of them and give them a try. Hopefully they aren't garbage production versions like a lot of these things built with superior Chinese quality assurance.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H49477R/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?s...

This one may be another possibility. I tend to trust these older LEDs for quality more than the newer 5050 die versions. We don't care about side lighting in this application so this may work out well. They also have white versions, but we don't really need that for this. So I change my mind. I think I will buy these instead. Don't know what I am going to do with the green one....

https://www.amazon.com/Shangyuan-Miniature-Navigation-Starboard-Runn...

Edited by Powerflite 2018-10-11 6:05 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-19 11:06 AM (#571964 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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I finally got some of the small painting projects done. I was really happy to pick up this nearly perfect horn ring from epay. Cleaned and painted, it looks really nice. Anyone want to buy my old lightly pitted one? I also finished painting the gold hubcaps so they all match now. It's hard to see in the picture, but I also painted the ribs on the sides to make them stand out better.





(New Horn Ring.jpg)



(Gold Knight Caps.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-19 12:08 PM (#571967 - in reply to #571518)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Powerflite - 2018-10-11 2:28 PM
Thanks Sven & Dave. The GE 90 definitely looks like the correct bulb with 2 contacts on it, but the BA9s doesn't look like it will work because it only has one contact. So looks like we need a different LED than that one.


wizard - 2018-10-11 2:48 PM
The GE 90 is a BA15D bulb, hence bigger in diameter (15mm) than a BA9s (9mm).)


The GE 90 is indeed a 15 mm base (I had to measure it to confirm). It has a two contact base *BUT*, unlike a two contact 1157 for example, it is a two contact *BUT* only a single filament (not two filament like an 1157). That is because ONE of the GE 90 contacts goes to ground, the other to power, as shown in this wiring diagram:





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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-19 12:20 PM (#571969 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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I received the LED's yesterday and tried them out today. Unfortunately, I don't know if an LED exists that will work here. It really can't be any bigger in diameter than the base. I couldn't get these to seat into the socket because the larger top section interferred with the tangs that hold the socket to the bezel. If you could get it seated, the larger diameter does fit inside the bezel though. But it doesn't look like it is going to work that way. Back to searching....or maybe if I cut the ends off the tangs I could get it to work? But looking closely at it, it isn't going to work because it is just a little too big.



Edited by Powerflite 2018-10-19 12:25 PM




(Ebrake LED NoGo.jpg)



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wizard
Posted 2018-10-19 12:40 PM (#571970 - in reply to #571967)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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56D500boy - 2018-10-19 6:08 PM

Powerflite - 2018-10-11 2:28 PM
Thanks Sven & Dave. The GE 90 definitely looks like the correct bulb with 2 contacts on it, but the BA9s doesn't look like it will work because it only has one contact. So looks like we need a different LED than that one.


wizard - 2018-10-11 2:48 PM
The GE 90 is a BA15D bulb, hence bigger in diameter (15mm) than a BA9s (9mm).)


The GE 90 is indeed a 15 mm base (I had to measure it to confirm). It has a two contact base *BUT*, unlike a two contact 1157 for example, it is a two contact *BUT* only a single filament (not two filament like an 1157). That is because ONE of the GE 90 contacts goes to ground, the other to power, as shown in this wiring diagram:




Most bulbs used for constant 12VDC feed and switched ground is of the type 1004 (BA15d R10W) https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-1004-Miniature-Bulb/dp/B002CYSBW6
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wizard
Posted 2018-10-19 12:53 PM (#571973 - in reply to #571969)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Powerflite - 2018-10-19 6:20 PM

I received the LED's yesterday and tried them out today. Unfortunately, I don't know if an LED exists that will work here. It really can't be any bigger in diameter than the base. I couldn't get these to seat into the socket because the larger top section interferred with the tangs that hold the socket to the bezel. If you could get it seated, the larger diameter does fit inside the bezel though. But it doesn't look like it is going to work that way. Back to searching....or maybe if I cut the ends off the tangs I could get it to work? But looking closely at it, it isn't going to work because it is just a little too big.




I had a similar problem with my licens plate LED-bulb and had to cut the tangs slightly for to get it in - check the hole diameter and compare with the LED-bulb.


It seems like 1142 is the same type as 1004 https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1142-led-bu...
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-19 12:57 PM (#571974 - in reply to #571970)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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wizard - 2018-10-19 12:40 PM

Most bulbs used for constant 12VDC feed and switched ground is of the type 1004 (BA15d R10W) https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-1004-Miniature-Bulb/dp/B002CYSBW6


Sven: Agree that the base and the single filament aspects of the 1004 and the GE 90 are similar/identical. *HOWEVER*, the size of the glass globe on the 1004 is too big to work in my 1956 eBrake warning light. Been there, tried that. Hence the GE 90 with its smaller glass globe.

REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=67931&...

1004 (on the left), GE 90 on the right:



Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-19 12:59 PM
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wizard
Posted 2018-10-19 1:13 PM (#571977 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Thanks' Dave, the bulbs I had in my car was tubular BA15d R10W (Now replaced with warm White LED's) - now that I made some searches, they come in tubluar or spheric versions.

http://www.casteels.biz/automotive-products/r5w-r10w-bulbs-spheres-...
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-19 2:30 PM (#571985 - in reply to #571977)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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wizard - 2018-10-19 1:13 PM
Thanks' Dave, the bulbs I had in my car was tubular BA15d R10W (Now replaced with warm White LED's) - now that I made some searches, they come in tubluar or spheric versions.


It's all beginning to make (a little) sense now.

Here is a tubular R5W that I found on the internet when I was looking before. Could NOT buy them locally.

So what are the details (link?) for the LED that you are now running?



Edited by 56D500boy 2018-10-19 2:32 PM
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wizard
Posted 2018-10-19 3:51 PM (#571989 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Dave, I bought el cheapo ones from Singapore - when they arrived after a looong time, I already got my refund from Epain since I was convinced that they were lost. Then I discovered that the had minus in the chassi and 2 plus poles - no good.

I opened them up and resolder them correctly and they have worked for at least 3 years now.


I found these ones on Epain, but they might be too strong for a brake warning light, perhaps for the dome light?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-BA15D-1142-1076-Warm-White-27SMD-LED-230...
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-10-19 11:04 PM (#572015 - in reply to #531404)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Powerflite - 2017-01-15 9:06 AM

I installed lap belts & replaced the muffler in the car yesterday. The last work to do before moving on to working on the New Yorker. Once the front seat foam stops disintegrating under it, I will paint the floor and install a carpet in there. but this car has become a pretty nice driver so I am going to enjoy it for a little while.


I’m pretty sure the foam will stop disintegrating when there is none left to disintegrate. A few years ago the wife and I took my car to a car show about 30 miles from home. We left very early when it was cool outside and drove with the windows up. In the afternoon it was very hot and we drove home on the freeway with the windows down, sweating, seat foam dust blowing all over us and sticking to our skin, in our eyes. A few weeks later I asked the wife if she wanted to go for a Sunday cruise in the Chrys... “NO CHRYSLER” was the response, before I could even finish the question. I have towels wrapped around the base perimeter of the seat now, to contain the foam until I can get the interior done.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-20 1:05 AM (#572019 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Very true! I have kids that sit in the back seat and they sometimes get a nice dusting. But I keep it vacuumed out as much as possible. The amount of deposit has decreased quite a bit so I am considering putting carpet in the car now.
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wizard
Posted 2018-10-20 4:04 AM (#572020 - in reply to #571985)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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56D500boy - 2018-10-19 8:30 PM

wizard - 2018-10-19 1:13 PM
Thanks' Dave, the bulbs I had in my car was tubular BA15d R10W (Now replaced with warm White LED's) - now that I made some searches, they come in tubluar or spheric versions.


It's all beginning to make (a little) sense now.

Here is a tubular R5W that I found on the internet when I was looking before. Could NOT buy them locally.

So what are the details (link?) for the LED that you are now running?



An idea might be to slaught a 90 bulb and use the base for to solder in a BA9 red led and fill the gap with epoxy glue - correct base and slim "bulb"
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-20 1:28 PM (#572050 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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I figured I would try out a new socket as they may give me more room for the bulb. Turns out I was right, and I can just barely make it work. But I couldn't find a BA15D socket so I converted a BA15S to dual contact using the innards from another dual terminal socket. I had to cut and bend the output section to fit the dual plug into it instead of the single wire, but once done, it seems to work well. This LED array just barely fits in the bezel so you really could use it without a lens if you wanted to, but it wouldn't look the same of course.

One annoying thing is the LED had no documentation at all. The bulb can also be inserted in either direction, but nevertheless, the LED can only work in one direction. Turns out that the red or green sticker is placed on the ground side of the LED - backwards from what I would expect it to indicate. But I didn't blow it out from placing it in the wrong direction, so that's good.



(Socket Mods.jpg)



(LED in Bezel.jpg)



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Attachments Socket Mods.jpg (250KB - 70 downloads)
Attachments LED in Bezel.jpg (156KB - 79 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-20 1:49 PM (#572052 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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The left fender wasn't straight. It was pushed in about 1.5" just above the wheel. Nevertheless, that didn't stop someone from filling it with bondo and calling it good. So I dug it out and will begin the process of getting it straight. It isn't going to be easy because of all the abuse it has already gone through, but I'll give it a shot.



(Fender Dent.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-10-20 8:02 PM (#572083 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Well, after a lot of effort, I got the LED in place and shining. It makes a nice bright, even glow that is pleasant to look at. You really can't tell from the photo because it makes it look yellow when it is really a nice red color. However...those stinking Chinese un-engineers did it again! They made a 2 contact, single filament bulb that is also grounded to the case. What a bunch of idiots. Why in the world would you want a single filament bulb with 2 contacts that is also case grounded???? Doesn't make sense. Anyway it was all a complete waste of time and effort. I put my tail between my legs and installed a GE90 bulb into it. I probably should have done that to begin with.



(Ebrake LED Go-NoGo.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2018-10-20 8:43 PM (#572085 - in reply to #572083)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Seemed like you were winning with that LED so I didn't offer another alternative. Didn't work out. Too bad.

Another alternative is a very inexpensive 3/4" LED truck marker light. Has its own red lens. Requires removal of the OE socket so I didn't go that way even though my neighbour gave me one.

Something like this (comes with a two wire pig tail):

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wizard
Posted 2018-10-21 5:10 AM (#572098 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Nathan, I posted that I had the same problem, kind of easy to open the LED's up and change the ground
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-12-26 2:10 PM (#575842 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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I figured that by the time I got that left front fender close to straight, that it would need to be shrunk and the work involved wouldn't be worth the trouble. So I purchased a new fender from BigM. This fender just has a small dent at the very front of it that I may be able to straighten using a long spoon or blunt chisel. The inner structure near the headlight doesn't look to have been affected by the dent, but nevertheless the headlight bezel is unable to mount there. So the inner structure must have been compromised by it as well. I will try straightening it and see what it looks like afterward, but if it doesn't work out, I will separate the front inner structure from the fender and weld my old inner structure to the new one. Kind of a pain, but you gotta do what you gotta do.



(New 58Coronet Fender Bend.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-12-26 11:20 PM (#575863 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer


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thats going to be a tough fix and its all got to come apart. start spot weld cutting and good luck
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Powerflite
Posted 2019-01-02 2:31 AM (#576134 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Yeah, I mostly fixed the majority of the bend in the front of the fender, and banged on the inside metal quite a bit to try and move it out of the way, but no dice. I am no closer to fitting the bezel than I was before I did anything. I don't see any way of making it happen without removing the spot welds and straightening them separately. So that's the next step.

There wasn't any rust holes in my original trunk lid insert for the license plate, but it had a number of rust pits that were very deep on the inside face of it. So after sandblasting it, I welded in those low spots. I had to grind & smooth the weld-thru on the other side afterward. These contoured areas aren't very easy to get to, but with a cutting tool on the end of a small die grinder, I was able to do a good job with it, even in the corner. It feels pretty straight now, and should look good once primed & painted.



(58Coronet License Cavity.jpg)



(58Coronet License Cavity Back.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2019-01-21 9:51 AM (#577162 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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After quite a bit of work, I was able to get the bezel to fit into the insert properly. The center section had been pushed upward when the side was hit inward, but it didn't seem to affect the outer panel at the top for some reason. I have both panels reasonably straight now so I can now start welding up all the tears & extra holes created from cutting them apart. Then paint the seams & inner sections to finally be able to weld them back together again. On the plus side, at least the seams will be painted now instead of bare metal like it was from the factory.



('58 Dodge Fender Insert.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2019-04-21 3:25 AM (#581199 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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While I was waiting for the sealer to dry on the New Yorker, I decided to fix the rust on the right rear corner of the Coronet roof. I protected the glass with some damp rags and held them up with strong magnets. I also protected the trim with a couple layers of electrical tape. I cut the patch from a suitable section off a '58 Chevy pickup roof that happened to have the same bend in it. After I opened it up, I cleaned it out and found that the ledge next to the glass needed to be repaired. At first I was very dismayed as I didn't want to have to weld that close to the trim & rubber, but I found that by inserting a plate of copper between the trim that I was able to repair that section quite easily from the inside. I then sprayed down the inside with a rust converter and then a coat of primer/sealer. Once that was mostly dry, I welded it up. The patch came out quite well, but I had to cut out most of the leaded seam, leaving a large indentation to fill. Once the lead was out on the top end, I just welded most of the depression back in with steel. But I still need to remove the rest of the lead on the bottom end and either fill it with steel or something else. I am thinking that welding it in with steel would end up being the easiest and last better than any other option.



(58 Coronet Roof Rust.jpg)



(58 Coronet Roof Patched.jpg)



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Attachments 58 Coronet Roof Patched.jpg (135KB - 12 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2019-05-13 3:14 AM (#582092 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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While I had my Coronet parked on my sloped driveway, I noticed that the transmission was spewing fluid out of the tail end of it. So I pulled the driveshaft and replaced the rear seal with SKF 15620 which seemed to be the correct application. The seal SKF 15629 from a later Jeep application looks like it would also work, and is a little tighter fit, but is double the price so I used the original one and it looks to have worked well. The old seal was hard as a rock so it is no wonder that it wasn't working any longer. I also took the opportunity to adjust my E-brake and to replace the broken boot on the driveshaft. I used the '81 Dodge Omni version, which I believe is the same as the Dodge Neon CV boot. You have to cut the larger side of it to make it fit properly, but it is a universal type of boot with many possible seating locations so it works out well. After I got it done, I noticed a little slop in the B&T joint. I think that's where the clang in my driveshaft is coming from when I hit the gas hard and the trans suddenly kicks in. Oh well, I'll be more gentle with it as I don't want to replace it now.

I also decided to fix the only obvious rust hole in my rear floor while the driveshaft was out. I fabbed up the repair patch from a piece of my Copper '57 Windsor quarter panel. To make the ribs, I punched a rod between the open jaws of my bench vise. It came out quite well, but maybe a little too deep as the original Dodge ribs are a bit more shallow. So I flattened them out a little after I took this picture. I got it welded in and cleaned up and got the ribs to match up OK, but I noticed that the floor that extends further from there is spotted with rust once I cleaned it up, so I need to extend the patch further out along that rear seat beam. The beam itself has some rust too, but that is a job for another time. If I can get one, I would prefer to just replace the whole beam rather than spend the time patching it up.

Edited by Powerflite 2019-05-13 3:24 AM




(New Boot.jpg)



(58Coronet Rear Floor Patch.jpg)



(58Coronet Rear Floor Rust.jpg)



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Attachments New Boot.jpg (87KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments 58Coronet Rear Floor Patch.jpg (102KB - 1 downloads)
Attachments 58Coronet Rear Floor Rust.jpg (158KB - 1 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2019-05-13 7:00 AM (#582095 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer


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Watch out, next stop, you'll be pulling the body off the frame



Edited by mikes2nd 2019-05-13 7:02 AM
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local2Ed
Posted 2019-05-13 8:24 AM (#582097 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer


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Is that rubber boot the inner or the outer for the 1981 Dodge Omni?


Is that a Dorman Part?
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Powerflite
Posted 2019-05-13 11:04 AM (#582101 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: RE: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Location: So. California
Very true.
I used the outer boot, Dorman 614-001 from Autozone. The small end seems a little too small at first, but it stretches really easily so it wasn't a problem. Be warned that I had to purchase a new tool like this one to cinch the straps tight.



(61LAtgasYEL._SL1200_.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2019-05-13 12:42 PM (#582109 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer


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hmm 3.85 inches...

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=418481&jsn=296

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Lancer Mike
Posted 2019-05-13 11:38 PM (#582129 - in reply to #582109)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



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Location: The Mile High City

Hi, Nathan:

 

For the parking brake light, you can try these BA15Ds:

https://store.marinebeam.com/compact-ge89-and-ge90-replacement-for-attwood-perko-tw-ge-15/

 

I've had mixed luck getting them to last.  Actually, not good luck!  However, they fit and the work for at least a little while.

 

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Powerflite
Posted 2019-05-21 8:36 PM (#582396 - in reply to #520945)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



Expert 5K+

Posts: 5345
500010010010025
Location: So. California
Thanks for the tip Mike. I had my motor running for about 5 minutes while I was chasing down a whistle noise coming from the motor. At first, I thought it was the generator bearings that were whining, but oiling them made no difference. Then I tightened the belts, and still no difference. After I figured out that the intake bolts had loosened up, causing a vacuum leak on one side that was making the noise, I shut it off and noticed that my E-brake light lens was super hot. No wonder those things melt like they do. I really don't want to change it often though so maybe I'll wait on them at least until my current bulb dies....
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Lancer Mike
Posted 2019-05-22 12:16 AM (#582401 - in reply to #582396)
Subject: Re: White 1958 Coronet Lancer



50002000100050010025
Location: The Mile High City

You bet, Nate.  Every time I buy one of those pricey lil' LEDs, I reason that I would rather buy one of those than try to find a new lens / bezel!  I'll let you know if I find a better source for those things.

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