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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Brakes, Wheels and Tires | Message format |
billy |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 395 Location: upstate new york | I need to replace the brake light switch,,, screwed into the end of the Master cylinder...any tricks or tips? When I unscrew the old one will all the fluid come out and I'm destined to re-bleed the brakes? We've troubleshooted my lack of brake lights to the switch and I have the replacement ready to go in...doesn't look difficult just looking for words of wisdom...thanks, billy | ||
Viper Guy |
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Expert Posts: 2002 Location: Branson, MO | I replaced mine with no problem. Just unscrewed the old one, quickly put in the new one, and hardly got my fingers wet. | ||
60 dart |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 8947 Location: WHEELING,WV.>>>HOME OF WWVA | like viper said --------------------------------------------------later | ||
Rebels-59 |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | The easy way to troubleshoot a faulty switch is to remove the 2 wires and join them together, If brake lights work then change the switch, As mentioned above simply unscew the old and put finger over the hole before you fit the new one, You can have someone gently press the brake pedal once you screw the new switch in one thread and then quickly tighten the switch , just to be sure to remove any air.. . | ||
udoittwo |
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Expert Posts: 1348 Location: Valley Forge, Pa. | Basically like gravity bleeding a bleeder. A little fluid will come out but as long as there is fluid behind it pushing it out and you don't tough the pedal, air will not enter. | ||
FIN_NV |
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Expert Posts: 4589 Location: Northern New Jersey | Put some Pipe Dope oon the new threads | ||
flattie45 |
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Veteran Posts: 194 Location: Dorset, England | I had to replace 1 a year for the past 5 years. Cheap and expensive, even NOS, all failed. A wretched, useless design, the terminals arc under light braking and fail. This year I gave up and changed it out for for a mechanical pull switch actuated by the pedal. My experience recommends you do the same or you'll be changing it again next month. | ||
imopar380 |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7205 Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | If you use DOT-5 (Silicone) Brake fluid the pressure switches generally fail on a regular basis. I upgraded my brakes years ago to front disks, with a dual master cylinder and nowhere to put in a pressure switch so I routed a mechanical switch to work on the brake pedal push rod knuckle. I'm on the second fail of the pedal switch as of tonight, just got the car home and noticed the brake lights are out, switch not working. I'll have to jump the 2 wires tomorrow and make sure. Edited by imopar380 2016-10-22 11:56 PM | ||
imopar380 |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7205 Location: Victoria, BC, on Vancouver Island, Canada | Checked everything out today, and when I pulled out of the garage I had brake lights again. Turns out it wasn't the pedal switch, but the hot wire outside the firewall was nearly frayed through where it had been spliced into to a longer wire that I ran back through the firewall to the pedal switch, so it was an intermittent connection. | ||
billy |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 395 Location: upstate new york | Brake light switch went easy as you all suggested. Didn't lose much fluid, didn't even have to top off the Master Cylinder....took her out for a ride as the brake shoes and shocks were just replaced...All was well until the tranny fluid line into the bottom of the radiator let lose...nice new coating of tranny fluid....everywhere....oh well always something....:)...billy | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | billy - 2016-10-21 9:05 PM We've troubleshooted my lack of brake lights to the switch and I have the replacement ready to go in...doesn't look difficult just looking for words of wisdom...thanks, billy Billy: I am installing a new Raybestos MC36063 MC but need a new stop light switch. I can't find either a 1604989 or a 2084284 (SUPERCEDED FROM PART #1604989). What did you use? This MC (except not from Amazon): https://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-MC36063-Professional-Master-Cylinde... | ||
mobileparts |
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Veteran Posts: 253 | The real stop lite switch for 1955 - 1961 is a ---- 1/4" pipe thread ------ and NOT the 1/8" pipe thread ........ and has been OBSOLETE through regular channels for years............... If you want to do it right --- I have the CORRECT stop lite switch --- N.O.S. ---- ONLY ----..... Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935 ..... New York,....... | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | mobileparts - 2016-11-22 3:25 PM The real stop lite switch for 1955 - 1961 is a ---- 1/4" pipe thread ------ and NOT the 1/8" pipe thread ........ and has been OBSOLETE through regular channels for years............... If you want to do it right --- I have the CORRECT stop lite switch --- N.O.S. ---- ONLY ----..... Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935 ..... New York,....... Thanks Craig. I got one yesterday from my local NOS parts man (100,000 parts and I believe him - with a dBase system to determine stock (or not)). He had a box of brake light switches, include a NOS 1/4" NPT one which I bought and installed. | ||
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