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| So about to go on the maiden voyage with my girl in Desoto, after going back and forth R and D several times fine.
Backing up into driveway to wait for her, front right brake just locks.
Drum adjustment out, with a MC vacuum leak? Seems to be holding vacuum after ignition cut off, overnight.
Bled rr,rl, lower fr, upper fr, lower fl,upper fr. no air, MC full. Brake switch indicating.
Have a copy of a 58 desoto service manual that was in the trunk, but it's hard to decipher, with 3 ways of adjusting the brake rod free play, and diagnosis section as vague as it gets.
Maybe one slave locking?
Front drum rocking and locking shoes? Drum retaining spring?? lol
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-22 9:35 PM
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Location: Branson, MO | You may have a cylinder leaking a bit and impregnating the brake shoes with brake fluid - doesn't take much. This has a tendency to cause the wheels to lock up especially with self-energizing brakes. If this is the case, you'll have to repair or replace the leaking cylinder(s) and probably replace the brake shoes. Moisture has a tendency to cause this as well but heat generated from the friction usually dissipates the moisture and the brakes will act normal again until......................moisture is present again when the car sits for an extended period of time. Brake shoes just seem to absorb moisture like they were a magnet for anything liquid.
Edited by Viper Guy 2016-10-22 11:28 PM
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| Thanks VG.
I was planning on pulling the drum today, but as a 35+ year mechanic who isn't even 100% sure how to adjust these drums yet, I thought I would ask.
I am more than a lil put off by the entire factory system. Semi brakes seem less complicated to adjusts and diagnose.
The plan has changed for this car, into keeping her a solid, excellent running, cherry survivor, but I'm not sure the brakes should be left as factory.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-23 8:19 AM
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Location: McComb, Mississippi | The brakes are fine once adjusted. Although, I would possibly switch to a dual circuit master cylinder for added safety. |
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| Worked on the brakes. AGAIN. No joy. I will be rolling along in R, go a few 3-5 feet, then BANG lockup. SEEMS vacuum, possibly, when I shift into neutral (higher vacuum) they release. Sometimes. So not definative. And holds vacuum overnight.
All adjuster cams exactly as service manual, on "tight" side, but no actual "drag". I did pick up quite a bit in a couple shoes.
No air in lines that I can tell. Drums and shoes look like new, maybe turned once. Shoes free, springs strong.
No leaking or wet slaves. Nothing but fluid when a bleeder is cracked.
Only thing I can think of at this point is internal brake hose collapse, or vacuum leak at master actuator cylinder.
Slight hiss when brake pedal depressed, but by no means a "whistle" as described in manual. And holds vacuum overnight.
Brake pedal freeplay adjusted per manual, so far as I can tell in that casual, vague thing.
I have been reading and studying, but this oddball early power system has me stumped.
Feel free to share weird brake stories to help me diagnose.
Because this shoulda been a driving car a week ago without this brake system nonsense, and was hoping to give my woman a ride in the car yesterday for her birthday.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-23 3:39 PM
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Location: McComb, Mississippi | Take some 320 grit paper and hand sand the drums braking surface. You may need to replace the shoes as they may have fluid contamination. |
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| thank you Sir for the help.
I did both the fronts last night, will do the rears too. I found a slight rust spot on one of the front drums. Polished it till clean crosshatch was visable.
Will take the rear drums off too. The shoes looked to me like they were nearly new, with even some vigin friction materiel.
It HAS to be a mechanical issue, with drums or shoes, as it does it as well with engine off and vacuum bled off, rolling slowly backward. Few feet, and lockup.
I bet there is a rust patch on a read drum, probably the right rear...
Will update in a few...
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Location: So. Cal | My '57 Windsor did the same exact thing you describe, in reverse gear like yours. It turned out that the hold down pins were missing. After I put them in there, the problem was solved. Show us a picture of the offending brakes and we can offer up any advice based on what we see wrong.
My '58 Desoto brakes were working fine most of the time. But in the end, they just weren't capable of stopping well enough to work with Los Angeles drivers around. So I eventually upgraded to a Scarebird disc brake conversion. By far the best upgrade I have made to my car. Only problem is they require 15" wheels so you can't use your original hubcaps anymore unless you rig up a new mount for them. There are other smaller disc conversions that you can do that you can run with 14" wheels too. In the words of Jay Leno - "Keep an original car original, except for disc brakes and radial tires....disc brakes, and radial tires." I couldn't agree more. |
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| You were right Plymouth. Right rear slave leaking, shoe and drum very wet. For some reason couldn't get left off, beat on it with a hammer for quite a bit. So looks like rear shoes and a rear slave cyl., and will be doing all the brake hoses at the same time, as they are HARD, and I don't trust them. Still have to get that left rear off... Guess I will be trying to use the PB exclusively when I have to move it. Scary.
Thanks so very much Powerflite, offering to inspect a pic. I like to think I am pretty skilled, but each car has it's own weird issues, that all it takes is a few knowledgeable experienced people(like Plymouth's leak suggestion) than know what issue causes what symptom. And I have not looked at a manual for drum brake work in 25+ years, even when restoring the ones on my CJ5 manual drums. Then THIS haha I *think* *hope* *pray* the leaking slave is causing all the issue. I was a bit surprised I had leak, as there was literally no exterior indication of a leak on any drum, and the reservoir was the same level I filled it to. But there was fluid very wet everywhere.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-23 6:00 PM
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Location: 33844 | Hmmm , usually in Reverse it would be the rear most set of shoes to lock. The fronts and front of rear lock in Forward. This is because of which way pushes against the anchors. |
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Location: northern germany | Richbo - 2016-10-24 11:20 AM
Hmmm , usually in Reverse it would be the rear most set of shoes to lock. The fronts and front of rear lock in Forward. This is because of which way pushes against the anchors.
that is correct, in reverse ONLY the rear shoes of the rear axle can lock. |
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| Replaced right rear slave, but I admit I tried to flush out the brake fluid from the asbestos liner. No Joy. I knew better when an expert told me, but I had to TRY. SOOO beyond ready to at LEAST go around the block, and crap weather coming fast. :P
Thanks again ViperGuy, and Plymouth. I appreciate your advice and help.
Full set of shoes on way. They are relined semi-metallic, so hopefully they will actually work. I noticed the manual asks the shoes be machined/ground for a .010 fit inside the drums. WHAT? lol Who's grinding asbestos, anyone?
Never have I experienced such a temperamental, complicated(esp. the power assist unit, pedal mechanism, and front drums. FIVE individual slave types?!!) and so full of potential danger, health risk, and unreliability, factory drum brake system in all my 35 years of turning wrenches. A slave cylinder or axle seal leaking will completely immobilize the car? Psh. Not on any car I own. That is absurd, at best.
Disks and rear swap is a must happen before show season. I bought this car to ENJOY and SHARE with others(aside from the long term increased value, already at least doubled my money). Not so I can just stare at it's beauty locked away in a garage because I am scared to drive it, like seems rather common. I can't see wasting money on antique, hard to find, unreliable, unsafe garbage so it can sit in a garage, but call it "original", wasting several hundred or a thou(or even MORE?) correcting and restoring the entire factory system that could leave me stranded and scrambling to find 60 year old uncommon parts on ebay 50+ miles away from home the very next week.
That same amount will buy me a front disk conversion and a rear end with stronger, safer, forgiving, and available everywhere for cheap, disk calipers and pads on all four corners. Or at LEAST common and easy to find parts for, drums in rear. Good money after bad, and all that. And a car I can safely, confidently, reliably, hop in, and drive as far as I want, whenever I want. If you can't do that, why even own that car?
One question experienced MOPAR experts: The manual says "no drag" when adjusting the shoes. Do they mean literally, as in, if the drum lightly "scuffs", I should back them off more? I have them on the "tight" side, so the shoes are close, but zero rotating resistance. Just a slight "scuffing" contact.
If these brakes don't function properly with these new shoes, and an expert would say, "NOS asbestos shoes, turn your drums", I am giving up completely on the factory system, and the possibility of actually drivng my car even once, this year. The corner I am having so much issue with the drum is so new is has no surface rust on the outside of the bell. How it is even slightly out of round is beyond me, unless PO was driving around with that shoe locking(which I dunno how that would even be possible). I am already into the brakes for $100, hoping to drive it at least ONCE this year farther than 20 feet(lurching and shuddering violently the whole way. HAS to be funny to watch). That is 2/3rds the scarebird bracket. Or both calipers and pads for the front conversion.
And if those shoes don't get me around town a few miles, that's all, folks. The Hot Rodding begins.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-27 11:14 AM
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Location: McComb, Mississippi | The shoes should make a light stuffing noise on the drums. These brakes work pretty darn good once they are set up correctly. For a disc conversion, AAJ is the way to go. I own a 63 imperial that has a more conventional booster system and brake design. They work great, but I too want to upgrade. Not because I am worried about failure or parts availability. I'm worried about other drivers not paying attention.
Edited by plymouth 2016-10-27 1:14 PM
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Location: So. Cal | You still haven't shown us a picture of the brakes in question. We have experience where all this stuff needs to be located, and many times, parts are assembled wrong on these cars that cause a lot of problems.
In my experience, I don't care for the front drum brakes. You can get them to work OK, but they are more trouble than they are worth IMO. So I do highly recommend a Scarebird conversion for the front as long as you are willing to get 15" wheels and ditch the original hubcaps. I am running '55 Desoto hubcaps on my '58 since the '54-'56 cars used 15" wheels. The '55 Desoto caps are really nice looking. '55 Plymouth caps are very similar to the original '58 Desoto cap, so those are a good 15" option too.
However, I have had really good luck with the rear brakes on these axles. Replacing an axle is expensive and painful in it's own right. It just takes a little bit of work to get the original up to good working standard. If you are having trouble with the rear, show us a picture of what you have so we can help you. I adjust them so that the brakes have light drag. On the rear axle, rotate the adjusters so the top of the bolt goes away from the axle. |
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Location: Pacific Northwest | I bought a set of the nos asbestos shoes and have not been able to find anyone who will arch them for me. I ended up getting the old shoes relined so I could get the car back on the road. |
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| Powerflite - 2016-10-27 1:12 PM You still haven't shown us a picture of the brakes in question. We have experience where all this stuff needs to be located, and many times, parts are assembled wrong on these cars that cause a lot of problems. In my experience, I don't care for the front drum brakes. You can get them to work OK, but they are more trouble than they are worth IMO. So I do highly recommend a Scarebird conversion for the front as long as you are willing to get 15" wheels and ditch the original hubcaps. I am running '55 Desoto hubcaps on my '58 since the '54-'56 cars used 15" wheels. The '55 Desoto caps are really nice looking. '55 Plymouth caps are very similar to the original '58 Desoto cap, so those are a good 15" option too. However, I have had really good luck with the rear brakes on these axles. Replacing an axle is expensive and painful in it's own right. It just takes a little bit of work to get the original up to good working standard. If you are having trouble with the rear, show us a picture of what you have so we can help you. I adjust them so that the brakes have light drag. On the rear axle, rotate the adjusters so the top of the bolt goes away from the axle.
I apologize, Power.
I am crazy busy with the shop bread and butter work that sneaking in a few hours to love on Desoto is a bear, let alone make the time to take pics n post them. But I will do so tonight. Expert eyes might help a huge deal, and can't thank ya enough for the effort. I am referencing the manual(more than I have on anything in decades), and it appears the hardware is all there, but maybe the "spring" that you clip the return springs onto toward the hub is out of place, or something minor I don't recognize like you certainly would. Heck, I admit I haven't removed the left rear drum YET, but it isn't locking or causing issue, either. But I will. Should I expect to make a puller?
Switching to 15" wheels is no prob. The huge fat whitewalls in a radial tire that she wants is "cheapest"(at $209 apiece) are 15's. That desoto wheel swap info is amazing. TY for sharing. I will check them out absolutely. Our first "pow wow" about wheels and covers made us loosely decide for the overall cost, was an inexpensive 15x7 or 8, set of steel wheels, with Mooneyes "Saturn" Disks, and the 3 1/8" whitewall Coker 235/75R15's. The brushed aluminum, overall "swoop" aerodynamic appearance, lend themselves to the "jet aircraft" overall feel and look of the Fireflite. And without detractng or distracting from the car. Match the interior and feel of the car incredibly. Depends on what I can find in the years you mentioned, and the cost(should I be scared to ask?). Mooneyes are $50 apiece...
And I hope the snotty, all money/no skill, types who are too frightened to actually DRIVE THEIR CAR farther than 5 miles all soil themselves and call me names for it, if we go that route. HEY! maybe I will jack the car sky high, and put some nice, HEAVY, GAUDY ass 24 inch "donk" wheels on it for them!! Bah ha ha (I hate ALL wheels larger than 18")
I will keep the rear if I can get this particular factory setup operating properly, at least a season or two. Although the possibility of being far away from home, and a leak happening, and all the headache associated(I theorize from what PO told me, that the rear hit was beacuse of those factory brakes locking in stop and go city traffic), I am really having issue with not swapping axles for something much newer. The reliability, driveability, ease of maintenance, and cost of service parts, and all peace of mind out on the road far outweigh the work and cost involved to me. Besides. I can't tell you how many times I have pulled axles from under cars, trucks, semi tractors and trailers. Or swapped bulldozer idler wheels, or...
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-27 2:57 PM
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Location: McComb, Mississippi | Honestly, I wouldn't worry about swapping rear axles. If it leaks, replace the axle seals. Not a hard job at all. You'll need to buy a drum puller. If the wheel cylinders and shoes are fresh then the rear brakes are trouble free. Just swap over to the AAJ front disc brakes and you can keep your 14 inch wheels. |
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Location: So. Cal | I like this puller for the rear drum. Pretty bulletproof as long as you keep the main screw greased. It is made by Snap-on or Blue Point and you can do a search by the leg number 4567-G. The usually sell for $70-$80 on Ebay, although the current offering there is ridiculous.
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Location: So. Cal | This is my Desoto with '55 hubcaps on 15" wheels. The last picture is the '55 Plymouth cap. I think I paid around $130 for the set of (5) '55 Desoto caps and you can get a set of Plymouth caps for around $70, so these are actually cheaper than your moon discs.
Edited by Powerflite 2016-10-27 5:02 PM
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| That is a stout tool. haha. Thanks for the help guys. That scarebird conversion looks so clean and easy to maintain. Great shot of what, East of San Diego? Mohave?
I need to decide on what dual circuit MC to use. I want one that looks similar, if possible, but ease of mounting and availability is important too.
Hear is the right rear drum. The goop(before shoes wiped cleaner) is brake grease. My shoes were siezed up there.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-29 7:16 PM
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Location: So. Cal | You got it, Ramona area, East of San Diego.
Looks like you have the later style shoe hold downs on there. I think those were used after 1960. The '58 hold downs would look like this. I'm not sure if the lower hold downs are your problem or not, but I guess it couldn't hurt to put the upper ones on too. It was the absence of these hold downs, that caused the same issues that you are experiencing on my car. If you have a '58 backing plate, they may not be compatible with the later hold downs, but I have not tried it out the way you have it, so I am not sure.
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Location: McComb, Mississippi | That doesn't appear to be a tapered axles. |
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| Power,
I thought so. Grew up East Sf area.
My fronts have that "plate" style of retainer.
Plymouth, I haven't changed anything on rears. Perhaps a few year newer axle? I could find casting numbers.
The other side has no center nut, if I remember. And the drum MUST need a puller, cause I can't budge it. But I know little of mopar axles. And this experience hasn't been a good one so far haha
And if it shows to not be the original axle anyways, just another reason to put something WAY newer, easier to service, easier and cheaper to find parts, and a more forgiving design of drum brakes on the rear.
I want to drive this thing 100's of miles to a show, on a highway, and have NO worries. |
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| I gotta quit trying to remember new things when I am tired. Of course it has a axle nut and cotter. Haven't crawled under it.
I will post the axle stamp. Maybe the pig is worth transplanting into another 8.75, but I bet not.
I topped off the axle, and the outer seal between the tube and backing plate is leaking. Looks like unless there is an overhaul able posi(haven't checked same or opposing tire rotation, actually) which if i understand is later anyways, and this axle should be avoided.
There are a few c body 8.75's to be had inexpensive at the local pull a part. They have a fair amount of classic cars, mostly beat or rusted to crap. But early 70's Plymouth satellites(i believe, all badging gone), one a wagon...
Did I mention I have a local friend who is known in ProStock circles as a pro level chassis, driveshaft, differential fabricator? Modding a rear axle, whatever axle I choose, is zero problem. |
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Location: So. Cal | Most likely the axle you have in there is stock. It is unlikely that anyone changed it out. Someone in the past has removed the drum and so now the drum is no longer swaged to the lugs, but that is OK. Seriously, if it were me, I would replace that inner seal, clean off the shoes with brake clean really well, and install the original hold down pins in the correct places and give it a try. I would bet that this fixes your whole issue with it.
The outer seal does almost nothing. It is just a grease seal. It is the inner seal that always needs replaced. That one is easy to do as well, you just need a seal puller tool. You can swap gears with newer style rears to put a sure grip (posi) in there, but the axles will need to be shortened by 1/8" to do so because the separator pin is shorter on the older gears. I have shortened all my axles to do this because I like to run later 2.76 highway gears in mine. You can also use the older gears in newer axles if you use green bearings on the axles so that the shorter spacer doesn't affect the end play of the bearings. So the gear set is worth selling or keeping around if you end up pulling it out for some reason. But if you like the gear ratio, you can always just swap a sure grip carrier into your original gears too.
If you really want to swap out the rear, get one from a '65-'69 C-body. These axles are the right length and literally bolt right in. Super easy and cheap. You just have to locate one. An E-body (Challenger, Barracuda) rear will also bolt in, but you will likely have to adjust the pinion angle with some wedges under the axle. |
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| Power, Hey Thanks buddy, for helping out so much.
First set of shoes were 11x2 1/2 apparently. Seller had years, but no size listed,,and were clos enogh I couldn't tell the difference...
So have 2 brand new full sets of 11x2.5 shoes for sale. haha
MAN it sucks not being able to ID crap by sight yet.
I am pretty determined to swap axles, and going to a big MOPAR yard about an hour away this week for desoto trim and chrome. I bet he has one of the C body 65-67 axles. I will ask for certain. I imagine the brakes didn't change too awful much for the decade after, and should have lots of interchangeability between models(so plenty of vehicles with those same shoes for plenty of aftermarket demand for decades to come)?
As the hardware I have, is what I have, where could I find some of those plate style retainers and hardware? I have 2 days of nice weather 
Oh I forgot. If this is the original axle, shouldn't it have a tapered axle? But it isn't one??? Also, is the "swaging" why the left drums are so immoble? And do I remove the axle nut, if not tapered, to remove the drum??
Thanks all
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-31 4:59 PM
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Location: So. Cal | Yes, both axles are tapered and you have to use a puller to remove the drum, generally. But on one side, the drum has been replaced in the past, and it was not re-swaged to the lugs, which locks the drum to the hub. So now you can take that drum off without pulling the hub. On the other side, he probably didn't replace the drum so it is still locked onto the hub, and you have to use the puller on the hub to remove it from the axle. Keep in mind that once the hub is removed from the axle, that you have to use a slide hammer to remove the axle from the housing as well. This is because the axle bearing is press-fit into the housing. You will need to do this in order to get to the inner seal. Also use the slide hammer to pull out the old inner seal. Here is a picture with the axles already pulled and the axle bearing pulled out, but just sitting on the outer portion of the housing.
The '65-'69 C-body rear uses standard 8 3/4 brakes that all the muscle cars used so I am sure they will remain in supply for a very long time. You can get them in 10x2.5 (most common) or 11x2.5 or 11x3, they all interchange as long as you replace the whole thing as a unit with the backing plates. But don't get a rear end from an Imperial. Those have a different lug pattern and mount so it won't work for you. Stick with a Chrysler, Dodge Polara, or Plymouth Fury - all c-bodies from that era.
Look up member BigM (real name John) on this forum. He can sell you any brake hardware that you need. But since I eliminated the front drums on my car I could send you a set from them if you give me $8 to cover shipping. Just PM me for my paypal address (it's not the same as my listed email).
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| Powerflite - 2016-10-31 5:48 PM Yes, both axles are tapered and you have to use a puller to remove the drum, generally. But on one side, the drum has been replaced in the past, and it was not re-swaged to the lugs, which locks the drum to the hub. So now you can take that drum off without pulling the hub. On the other side, he probably didn't replace the drum so it is still locked onto the hub, and you have to use the puller on the hub to remove it from the axle. Keep in mind that once the hub is removed from the axle, that you have to use a slide hammer to remove the axle from the housing as well. This is because the axle bearing is press-fit into the housing. You will need to do this in order to get to the inner seal. Also use the slide hammer to pull out the old inner seal. Here is a picture with the axles already pulled and the axle bearing pulled out, but just sitting on the outer portion of the housing. The '65-'69 C-body rear uses standard 8 3/4 brakes that all the muscle cars used so I am sure they will remain in supply for a very long time. You can get them in 10x2.5 (most common) or 11x2.5 or 11x3, they all interchange as long as you replace the whole thing as a unit with the backing plates. But don't get a rear end from an Imperial. Those have a different lug pattern and mount so it won't work for you. Stick with a Chrysler, Dodge Polara, or Plymouth Fury - all c-bodies from that era. Look up member BigM (real name John) on this forum. He can sell you any brake hardware that you need. But since I eliminated the front drums on my car I could send you a set from them if you give me $8 to cover shipping. Just PM me for my paypal address (it's not the same as my listed email).
From what I had read and seen, I thought so.
This doesn't sound too hateful a procedure, but at this point, the less time, effort, and money I spend on this axle, the better. Of course I will inspect everything I can for serious damage. But the less work and money, but still safe, the better. I HOPE to drive it this year before snow cause waiting to drive a 1958 Desoto on the street for 25+ years and being SOOO CLOOSE for weeks now is KILLING me! haha
Sounds like I am sticking with a 8.75 rear! I hope I can find an example in decent enough shape to drive a bit, for a fair price. Sounds the best of all I am looking for, and an "easy" job. I am using a scarebird kit for sure (from all i gathered, sounds like the best, easiest, common/cheap parts, and don't garf front geometry. I need to read about the availability of shoes and drum service parts, what actually sits on everyone's shelving, and if I can actually go "too big" on the drums for my weight and front disk size(11x3 shoes would be my first choice, but science and ect).
Still unclear exactly which SB kit I would order, as the years and mopar makes, and the shared parts, and what hub is actually on my 58 with 12" drums and what makes/years share is still a bit confusing to me.
MAN I don't care for having to be spoonfed info, and trying to soak up so much so quickly! arhhg!
Chrysler, Dodge Polara, or Plymouth Fury, NO Imperial, 65-69. Keeping the 5x4.5 was a concern, too. Will research that quite a bit so I can ID one by numbers written down to consult while searching.
I have an order from John coming, a turn switch and a front sillplate. I think shipping yours would be awesome!! I still may sneak a drive in yet before snow!
PM on way...
Thanks, Sir.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-10-31 6:58 PM
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| Hey Power,
PayPal sent, addy sent.
Where'd ya go?
You ok? |
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Location: McCleary WA | ABloch - 2016-10-27 11:27 AM
I bought a set of the nos asbestos shoes and have not been able to find anyone who will arch them for me. I ended up getting the old shoes relined so I could get the car back on the road.
Have you checked with JC Auto in Lynnwood WA? They did mine. |
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Location: So. Cal | DieselJeep - 2016-11-02 7:41 AM
Hey Power,
PayPal sent, addy sent.
Where'd ya go?
You ok?
Yep, I haven't responded for a whole day so I must be dead. It feels pretty good actually.  I sent the brake holders & pins through US post, tracking #9500 1156 3978 6307 0534 31. Supposed to be there on Saturday. |
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LOL
Naw, just when ya send money to someone ya don't know, and I noticed while doing MOPAR homework ya replied to a thread after I PM'd ya the addy...
Don't mean to a stalker, militant, or a delicate flower over 8 bucks, either, budday. Glad you are ok. And feeling better.
New shoes didn't fix the issue. Those retainers are the last bit of money going into the factory sytem. Coulda swapped the rear in this much time wasted.
Even spoke with a buddy today that had a 57 plymouth as his first car. Told me the main thing he remembered was CONSTANTLY fussing with his brakes. NOOOOO, ya DON'T say?? Hooray! I DEFINATELY will keep it ALL stock, NOW! I wanna dump $1500 into my brake system, so it can fail and leave me stranded randomly somewhere far from home in <1000 miles!! Guaranteed!! ROTFL
He also made a few diagnostic suggestions, and said he is taking me to a friend's house. A guy known to be a mopar powerplant builder. Has a warehouse with stacks of vintage small and big block intakes, heads, blocks, cranks, factory race stuff, 2x3 factory intakes and carbs, 426 HEMI motors and parts. Everything ya could think of older MOPAR V8 motor, and STACKS of it all. Sounds like an awesome guy to know.
Never knew I'd meet so many kewl people because I bought an extinct mopar.
Sounds like Desoto motor may get pickled, chillin in the corner. And I may build an elegant BEAST after all...
Stock appearing, of course. For the "discriminating" purists.
Edited by DieselJeep 2016-11-02 3:20 PM
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scary brake issue
