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 Noob question No. 703: Rear axel nuts are they LH and RH or just RH?Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9896      Location: Lower Mainland BC | |||
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| mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6498  Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9896 Location: Lower Mainland BC | mstrug - 2016-11-14 9:16 PM I believe those castellated nuts are all right hand threads. Thanks. From the few partial threads that I could see before I quit for the night, they looked normal, i.e. RH thread. I'll put the wheel back on in the AM and try again - with a breaker bar, not just my 1/2" ratchet.  | ||
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| Richbo |
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Veteran Posts: 242 Location: 33844 | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9896 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Richbo - 2016-11-18 11:40 AM This is where a large rubber mallet comes in handy !!! I ended up just putting the wheel back on an letting the car back down and then using a socket and a 21" breaker bar (which I stood on (175 lbs))  Worked. Couldn't get the drum to budge even though it was take off on Sept 20th for brake inspection (and then reinstalled). Put the nut back on but it was a real bashtard to get tight again. Ended up standing on the breaker bar (one foot) to get the final twist to line up the castellated nut with the cotter pin hole. Like it really needs the cotter pin. | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9896 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2016-11-18 12:15 PM Couldn't get the drum to budge even though it was take off on Sept 20th for brake inspection (and then reinstalled). :) I've had the car in a shop today for new wheels (cop car) and tires (narrow white wall 235/75/15) and to do the brakes. They've spent a bunch of time and effort trying to get that right rear drum off (with a puller) and they haven't been successful even using some heat. They say that the drum and the end of the axle show signs that somebody in the past (not necessarily September past) has abused the hub of the drum and the end of the axle (there is a chunk missing off the tip of the axle, near the hole for the cotter pin). It wasn't me. I have more respect for 60 year olds than that. Not really sure what the solution is going to be - neither do they. So much for their initial estimate of "a couple of hours" for the brakes.  | ||
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| mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6498 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | I had one in which I had a lot of tension on the drum with a puller and used a mapp gas torch around the area where the drum contacts the axle for a least 10 minutes. I wrapped on the puller during the process and finally it just popped off! Don't be in the line of 'fire' at any time. Marc.  Edited by mstrug 2016-11-22 7:36 PM | ||
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| Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3031 Location: N.W. Fla. | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9896 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Mopar1 - 2016-11-22 9:04 PM that's why many install modern axles..... I understand. At this point, I trying to keep this car as a D-500 option car with the 12" x 2.5" Chrysler brakes so I am resisting "upgrades". The left rear drum came off just fine, exposing brake shoes "with a lot of meat on them". Chances are the right shoes are fine. It is the unknown condition of the right rear wheel cylinder that is necessitating the removal of the drum. Plan B might be to abandon the drum removal and, fingers crossed, hope that wheel cylinder still functions after they bleed the system (from the new MC outwards). I can't continue to hemorage $$ while they play with it. (Their puller is no where near as skookum as the one in the photo). If I knew that it was going to be a battle for them, I would have taken the brakes on myself and taken my time, leaving the right rear until the end. Oh well. Into it now. Tomorrow is another day.  Edited by 56D500boy 2016-11-22 9:54 PM | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9896 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2016-11-22 9:52 PM Mopar1 - 2016-11-22 9:04 PM that's why many install modern axles..... Plan B might be to abandon the drum removal and, fingers crossed, hope that wheel cylinder still functions after they bleed the system (from the new MC outwards). I can't continue to hemorage $$ while they play with it. (Their puller is no where near as skookum as the one in the photo). If I knew that it was going to be a battle for them, I would have taken the brakes on myself and taken my time, leaving the right rear until the end. Oh well. Into it now. Tomorrow is another day. Okay it's another day and I am still hemoraging. They claim that they have been using "a skookum" drum puller as per the photo. But nothing. They have supposedly been working on Plan B but it's been hours. Got say from my end, it is almost as bad as waiting flat on my back in a hospital bed for 3 days a year ago waiting for a surgeon to perform my open heart surgery (Nov. 23, 2015 - I year ago to the day). Way more stress than I signed up for. Definitely should have putzed away on the front and left rear brakes on my own and taken the car to the September mechanic who claims he got that drum off. In the meantime, they are suggesting a) the drum is eventually going to have to be cut off the axel and b) I will need a new axle because sometime in the past 25 years or more much of the threaded tip of the axle is broken off (not much for the cotter pin to hang on to). SOooo..... I am looking for a 1328382 rear axle, which I found in my 56 Chryco parts book and also on Page 14/16 of this rear-axle parts pdf: http://www.jholst.net/55-58-parts-manual/rear-axle.pdf So the usually places (Moores', Wild Cat? Big M? ) I would hope for NOS but that might be dreaming. Dave F. | ||
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