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'57 New Yorker Coupe
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-20 12:20 PM (#552770 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I am thinking of using these marine hemi wire covers. They have a lot more room at the back of them so that you can fit larger size wires into them without squeezing them against the wire covers. I'm not sure how different they will look compared to the auto versions.



(Marine Wire Cover.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-24 5:39 PM (#553057 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I made some progress with the extra time off. I got most of the firewall put back together except the accelerator pedal linkage. I made a gasket for the backside of the heater core from 3/16" rubber. and used the white firewall sealer goo stuff to finish it off. I wish that stuff was a different color now. I didn't think about that before I put it up there, but it is OK, just that it is very visible now against the black. But too late to change it. The blower motor housing is formed at a weird angle for some reason so that I ended up having to use 2 layers of sealer to get it to fill the gap - even with the stock rubber gasket that comes with the unit. Weird that it fits so poorly to the firewall. Makes me wonder if it was made for something else, but both my '57 Chrysler units are formed the same so I don't know what to think.

I installed the remote master cylinder with the remote reservoir on the firewall. It fits really nice there. I was originally going to anodize the reservoir black, but I have too much black in here so having something a little different is good. The master is setup for disc/disc so I have a 10lb residual pressure valve in the rear line under the steering box. It's really nice to get that inner fender out of my way and on the car again. Hopefully, I can spend tonight putting the motor back together. Any suggestions for the best way to get the brake switch wires back into the engine compartment? I might be able to squeeze them past the main wire feed....

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-24 5:41 PM




(57NY Firewall Coming Along.jpg)



(57NY Firewall Closer.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Firewall Closer.jpg (188KB - 43 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-11-24 10:05 PM (#553077 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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which reservoir and master cylinder did you use?

It looks good with the old one. I may use my old one now.

You used the rope sealant(clay like stuff around the heater box)?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-24 10:37 PM (#553078 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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The remote master cylinder comes from Ebay here:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/remote-fill-master-cylinder-street-rod-rat-...

Unfortunately, the reservoir that comes with it is just a little too wide to fit well. It will rub the bellows and hit the hood spring if you try to use it, but it might work with manual brakes. But the aluminum reservoir from Classic Performance Products fits much better there, and looks better. Unfortunately, it isn't cheap though, and they recently raised the price on it. The part number is RR2 and you can get it through summitracing.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLP-RR2

They changed the lid design to look a little better than what is shown in the picture.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-24 10:40 PM




(Remote Master.jpg)



(RR2 Reservoir.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-11-25 12:41 AM (#553085 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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hmm I was thinking hydro boost brake master cylinder.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-11-29 12:04 PM (#553380 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I modified the voltage regulator to work with an alternator and re-painted the lid. I basically just use it as a bus bar connection to keep the wiring and inner fender looking stock. The diagonal connections need to be tied together for the alternator so I do that within the regulator housing using a remnant of the original wires. I accidentally cut the wire a little too short out of the coil so I had to splice another piece onto it. You also need to cut out the resistors that tie the different connections together underneath the regulator housing. I will be using one of Rotton Lennard's stealth alternators that look like a generator.



Edited by Powerflite 2017-11-29 12:07 PM




(Modified VReg.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-07 1:04 AM (#553840 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I got most of the bottom end of the motor put together. The new rods look a lot better in there than those massive 426 hemi rods & welded plates on the crank. I almost forgot to include the bushing underneath the rear main cap for the oil pump - mine was missing of course so I had to pull one from another motor until I can purchase a replacement. But good thing I reviewed the assembly first to catch that. I am going to try to use the hotheads windage tray. It wouldn't clear the 426 hemi rods before, but I am hoping that it will clear these new Scat rods. I'll find out soon enough. I hope to get the heads on by the end of the week.



(392w-440Rods.jpg)



(392 Windage.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 1:32 PM (#554167 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I went shopping at the mall and bought these new oil pressure hoses. I decided to purchase enough for all my vehicles. They look to be very well made. I believe the one that's different is for the '58 Dodge or maybe the DeSoto, I'm not sure yet.

http://www.moparmall.com/1957-1958-1959-MoPar-Oil-Gauge-Hose-p/mv-6...

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-12 1:34 PM




(Oil Pressure Hoses.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 1:47 PM (#554168 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I also got tired of doing a lot of cleanup on a bunch of misc. parts so I gathered them up and had them sandblasted. The exhaust manifolds were part of that bunch. After sandblasting, I painted them with Eastwood's exhaust manifold high-heat paint. Hopefully it lives up to it's reputation for staying on there. First, I tried brushing it on with a sponge brush, but that failed because the sponge just started coming apart very quickly due to a chemical reaction. So I finished them off with a regular bristle brush.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-12 11:19 PM




(Eastwoods Exhaust Paint.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2017-12-12 2:52 PM (#554170 - in reply to #554168)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks good Nathan.

Aren't 1533 377 exhaust manifolds for the LC3-300, i.e. 300D?



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-12-12 3:07 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-12 4:58 PM (#554181 - in reply to #554170)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Dave. Not quite. Same casting number, but the 300D manifolds had a clearanced section on them like in this picture. The manifolds I have were used in the large Dodge trucks with Chrysler hemi motors.



(300DManifolds.JPG)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-13 1:19 PM (#554224 - in reply to #554181)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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You may need to cleave off a hunk of those manifolds to fit.

I can tell you with some experience that even with the clearance, things get really tight really fast with the hi-po 300D manifolds in a '57-58 chassis.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-13 1:34 PM (#554226 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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When I mocked it up in my '58, it didn't look that bad. The '57 box is bigger in some places and smaller in others so it may be different, but does this look like what you experienced?



(Truck Exhaust & BrakeMC.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-13 4:32 PM (#554247 - in reply to #554226)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I want to say my manifolds were somehow "higher" up the head than that (closer to the valve cover) and that's where it got tight. Your manifold seems way down there in the pic.

Also, your steering box is VERY different design than the ones that are in both of my '57 NYers. My box is a much larger casting than what you show there (see pic).

The space between my valve cover and master cylinder is pretty close to what you have though - just about none!

The other area of concern was the pass-side upper control arm clearance to the manifold. Although on mine, it is pretty far away. About an inch.

I just looked in all my mock up photos and I don't have anything that shows this clearance clearly on both sides. I'll be able to get some pictures for you when I get the engine back in the car.



(20170315_120548.jpg)



(20170315_120549.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-13 7:23 PM (#554269 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Danny. That relief looks really overkill for the right side. I wouldn't use that manifold there because it will reduce your performance for no good reason. I would also be inclined to modify the edge of the control arm mount to clear the truck manifold rather than compromise the exhaust that much. But the left side is a different story. We'll see how it goes when I get it in there.

I fabbed up a baffle for my oil pan today. I put a 392 hemi into a '68 Barracuda when I was 16 and had a lot of fun with it. Back then I had to be careful about how hard I launched the car while going up even a small hill because I could easily lose oil pressure. I hope that this baffle will prevent that, although I don't know if I will have the same issues in this large barge. I designed it so that you have to insert the oil pickup with the pan towards the rear, and then scoot the pan forward after the pickup is inside the baffle. I did this to maximize the amount of coverage that it makes to the backside of the pan. I put oil drain holes in the rear corners and also in one spot on the front. I didn't put it on the other front side because I figure the oil can flow over the top of the baffle to the big access hole there. I am going to tack weld it in 9 places so that I could remove it in the future if it becomes necessary.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-13 9:00 PM




(392 Hemi Pan Baffle Notes.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-17 1:28 AM (#554459 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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It took me longer to get the heads on than I expected because I found that the crank counterweights were hitting the sides of the mounts for the windage tray. I think HotHeads put too much tolerance on those holes so it can move around a lot. Of course, I found this out after I had the pan installed and ready to go, so it came back apart again. But I ground down the sides of the mounts and got it back together again with no more surprises so far. I also put 2 clay blobs on a piston and one head on with pushrods and tested the valve to piston clearance. It looks fine so I put the heads on for good. I am now adjusting the push rods (the cam is a solid lifter version). I am planning to cut the water crossover at the yellow crayon line shown to add material and make it reach the aluminum head outlets. Wish me luck because I'm not sure how it is going to come out. I will swap out the valley cover once I get the 392 version cleaned and painted. I think the one on there is from a 331. The carbs need to be swapped too of course because I need the small top to mount to the air cleaners. Originally, the bottom crankshaft pulleys were painted silver with the motor. I have 4 different original crankshaft pulleys and they were all silver. But it looks better as black, and matches the water pump pulleys that way so I painted it black instead.



(57NY Hemi Assembly.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-17 1:42 AM (#554461 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I need the large outer water pump pulley to drive the generator so if anyone has one to sell me, I would appreciate it.

I began installing a new 2.5" stainless exhaust system that I purchased from Pypes that was made for a '59 Impala. It doesn't fit as well as I had hoped and will require modification, but it's a good starting point anyway. I removed the rusted original and it's a surprisingly small diameter - I didn't measure it, but maybe around 2" diameter. It also dumps well under the car before the rear bumper mount on the frame. I think I will extend it further than that though just to get the exhaust further from the back end of the car and prevent re-circulation under the car and into the trunk.



(57NY Tailpipe Exit.jpg)



(57NY Original Tailpipe.jpg)



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60 Imp
Posted 2017-12-17 7:06 AM (#554463 - in reply to #554459)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Location: North Australia
The engine looks good! I was thinking about the water crossover, someone competent with metal spraying might be able to do that job. Why did you use a Chev exhaust?

Steve.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-12-17 9:39 AM (#554469 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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nice heads... are those aluminum? wonder how much they save in weight?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-17 10:55 AM (#554475 - in reply to #554463)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Steve: I am going to spot weld new metal to the iron crossover and then braze it together. The hard part is going to be trying to make it look right with an extra inch+ added to it. I was going to cut it on both ends to keep the water port centered and the generator mount in the correct spot, but I have given up on that because it would be a lot more work. It would be easier to extend the other side, but then the generator mount would have to be practically eliminated. I bought the Chevy exhaust hoping that it would be close enough to work well here. I wanted 2.5" stainless exhaust and making it all custom is a lot more expensive. As it is, I only have to modify it a little bit. Saves time and money, but it would be nice if I could find something that was closer.

Mike: I think it saves around 80 lbs. But it makes a huge difference when you pick them up to move them around. You don't even feel the weight of these things. In the car, that weight is high up at the front of the car so it makes a big difference in the way the car handles.
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jboymechanic
Posted 2017-12-19 12:06 AM (#554616 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Why didn't Hot Heads make their aluminum heads work with the factory water crossover? The 1957 and 1958 Chrysler Hemi crossover works even on 331 and 354 engines despite the difference in block deck height between the blocks, why wouldn't hot heads do the same?
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-19 12:47 AM (#554621 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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If you buy their aluminum 331/354 heads, you can use the stock crossover. On the 392 heads, they just cast the extra spacer into the 331 head to make it work on the 392, but didn't bother to move the water ports. So they are setup as if you were using 331 heads on your 392. It was a shortcut they took to make their life easier, but make mine harder. Their solution is to use this custom crossover, but that would look terrible in a '57 Chrysler so I am trying to modify the stock one to make it work and look better than otherwise.



(392 Hemi.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-19 9:09 AM (#554634 - in reply to #554621)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Man, I have spent some time myself to see if there is a cast crossover for your application. Somewhere in the recesses of my head, I recall one from PAW or HH. And it makes sense, too - people have been running 555 heads on 392s since about 1957. I see lots of options for the cast crossover - natural or polished, thermostat offset for blowers, 45 and 90 tstat housings, etc... but none for running 331/354 heads on a 392. Have you reached out to QEC / TR Waters / Hot Heads? They might have some advice. You might also ask here.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/hemi-water-x-over-w-head...
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-19 10:45 AM (#554643 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I would love to get ahold of more cast aluminum crossovers from PAW, but they are no longer available. They are stock dimensions though, but I could at least weld the aluminum better than cast iron. Problem is I wasn't smart enough to purchase more than 1 of them at the time. I don't want to cut that one up because I have a use for it in a different car. I could probably sell that thing for triple or quadruple what I paid for it now.



(PAW Aluminum Crossover.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-19 10:54 AM (#554644 - in reply to #554643)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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HH still offers a (standard-width) aluminum crossover, but it doesn't have the provisions for the generator mount and that's a problem if you intend to run one.

It also puts the thermostat in a different place. Pretty sure the intention here is to satisfy the people running BB Chevy water pumps.

http://www.powerplayhemi.com/water_pumps/crossover_cast_aluminum.ht...
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-12-19 9:50 PM (#554689 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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those PAW ones sell for 450$-500$ when they show up...
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2017-12-21 10:56 PM (#554840 - in reply to #553057)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Your car is progressing nicely, you’re very ambitious. On my 57 I used a dual reservoir master for a 68 Chrysler and had to trim the corner of the plug wire cover for clearance. I kinda hate that I trimmed it now but at the time I thought it would be preferable to having a remote reservoir. This past summer on a 108 degree afternoon I’m driving it home from a transmission shop, temp gauge is almost at overheat level, I get off the freeway and have extreme brake fade and end up slamming on the pedal in panic and locked um up, scary. After some thought I concluded that the brake fluid boiled from being too close to the engine and caused the problem. I’ve now switched to the highest temp racing brake fluid I could find and rebuilt the front brakes. Seems to be fine now but I’ll be driving it very carefully and put it to the test next summer on a vacant road. Any further issues I’ll be switching to your setup and disc brakes. Yours looks clean, keep up the good work.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-22 2:25 PM (#554876 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Steve. Good to know about the boiling brake fluid. I'll keep that in mind and keep an eye out for it. I'd like to see your car sometime. Ever come to Spring or Fall fling?

I split the crossover and am figuring out the best way to stitch it back together. Let the fab fun begin!



(Crossover Split.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2017-12-23 12:38 PM (#554920 - in reply to #554876)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks good. Stitching up that cast iron is going to be fun! Just curious, have you verified hood clearance with the carburetors and air cleaners? It gets pretty tight there.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-23 12:52 PM (#554922 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I checked out the hood clearance with the '58 New Yorker. There is actually more than you think because the AFB is quite a bit shorter than the original WCFB in the '57. I have 1/2" spacers under the carbs to prevent the linkage from whacking the intake, but it is still shorter than the original setup.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2017-12-24 3:08 PM (#554985 - in reply to #554876)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I’ll try to make it to the upcoming spring or fall fling, I’m trying to wrap up a few more items on the car before I get the upholstery done and can drive it without seat foam dust blowing around and coating me with a layer:)

Edited by Leadfoot1000 2017-12-24 3:09 PM
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-26 10:58 PM (#555048 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Cool, I'm looking forward to seeing it Steve.

I installed the motor today. I still haven't installed the trans though, but I had to drill out the trans adapter to 1/2" holes in order to fit the 1/2-20 flywheel bolts that the previous owner tapped the crank to. The '58 air cleaners are just temporary and I am using them now because my '57 versions don't have paint yet. The carbs aren't ready to run yet, and I am working on the fuel lines; but at least they are the right style now. I cut the spark plug wires many years ago to run the motor with 426 hemi style, but now most of the shorter ones won't fit in the wire cover. So I will need to purchase a new set.

Edited by Powerflite 2017-12-26 11:03 PM




(392 In NewYorker.jpg)



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Attachments 392 In NewYorker.jpg (220KB - 22 downloads)
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58DeSoDodge59
Posted 2017-12-26 11:04 PM (#555049 - in reply to #555048)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Oh man, that's looking good !
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mikes2nd
Posted 2017-12-26 11:33 PM (#555051 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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that's it.. I have to step up my game...

Hope to finish the trunk tomorrow..
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-27 1:46 AM (#555056 - in reply to #555051)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Kurt, I do like the look of the dual quad 392. Mike, your Dodge is moving a lot faster than mine already. I haven't really started the rust repair on the floors or quarters yet, just the roof & cowl. My biggest priority is to get it together and drive-able so I can work on a running vehicle. It makes it easier to move around and less potential hassle from the government. So that's why I am putting it together now.

When I first installed the motor, the left side exhaust manifold was sitting on top of the steering box and the right side had an enormous amount of clearance from the control arm. It baffled me for a while, but then I realized that the adjustable motor mounts were set to make that happen. The left side was rotated all the way down, while the right side was rotated all the way up that tilted the motor over to the left. I originally thought these mounts would self-level on their own, but apparently not. I am also unable to get them to move because they have been seized in position for many years. So I replaced the right side motor mount with one that was more in the downward position (this is actually the original mount to this car). That leveled things out much better to the point that there was 1/8-3/16" of clearance on the left side. I then took a file and filed the top edge of the steering box cover at a 30 degree angle to gain more clearance. Now I have around 3/8-7/16", which should be enough. The right side has around 3/4" clearance so no worries there.



(392 Right Clearance.jpg)



(392 Left Non-Clearance.jpg)



(392 Left Final Clearance.jpg)



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Attachments 392 Right Clearance.jpg (165KB - 20 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-27 1:56 AM (#555057 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Also, I wanted to find out for sure if the vertical oil filter would work in a Chrysler or not. I can say that it definitely will not work. You would have to use a filter that was 2.5" long to fit above the torsion bar. So I removed it and installed a 30 degree angled filter.



(Wrong Filter Angle.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-29 3:00 PM (#555197 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
I mounted up the '63 push button 727 to the car and was ready to bolt up the torque converter when I realized that it was completely impossible to do so. The Hot Heads adapter I am using completely blocks off access to the bolts because the early bolt locations are further out on the plate. What the?!? I did buy this adapter originally for a 4speed eons ago, and then got the other parts to make it work with the automatic, but I didn't think they used a different style for the auto? I don't know, but anyway, I had to disassemble it all to modify the adapter. You can't imagine how much I enjoyed cutting away at it with my die grinder while attached to the motor with the flexplate there under the car, and all the nice things that I said at the time. I also tried out my bolts on my new torque converter while it was back out, and good thing I did because one bolt would not go in the hole straight no matter how much I tried. So I got out my tap and insisted that it went straight only to have a crappily installed heili-coil come out of the hole! That's just unacceptable. Good thing I purchased 2 of them. The other converter bolt pads were so rusted tight that I had to tap them out first in order to get a bolt through them. I guess they were digging deep in their pile to get these cores! But I got that one to work and installed it. What a pain. That little jaunt cost me almost an entire day of work.



(TransAdapter Relief Mod2.jpg)



(TransAdapter Relief Mod1.jpg)



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Attachments TransAdapter Relief Mod2.jpg (55KB - 20 downloads)
Attachments TransAdapter Relief Mod1.jpg (61KB - 20 downloads)
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-12-29 5:39 PM (#555206 - in reply to #555197)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 3375
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Location: Lower Mainland BC
Sorry for your problems with the trans adapter.

I forgot to ask "When did FRAM start making motor mounts?"



Hope you have a good 2018 Nathan.

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Powerflite
Posted 2017-12-29 7:53 PM (#555216 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
Good one Dave.
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57burb
Posted 2017-12-29 10:55 PM (#555222 - in reply to #555206)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 3348
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Location: DFW, TX
A Napa / Wix 1335 / 15335 is a Super short variant of that full size Ford filter you have there. Might be a short term option to get it running, but I'd recommend a different adapter and full size filter eventually. No Fram, though.

I have no fitment issues with a horizontal mounted filter. My adapter came from TR Waters.

Great progress, Nathan! This stuff never just bolts together. You'll get it rolling around soon.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2017-12-29 11:56 PM (#555225 - in reply to #555222)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 174
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Location: Southern CA
I used the horizontal mount also, the clearance is great, but I had to have the mounting flange machined a bit to clear a knuckle on the trans adapter plate. TR Waters did the machining for me before they shipped it. I’m using a Purolator PL30001. Taking these photos reminds me I need to get busy detailing the engine compartment.



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Attachments 630184ED-B0C0-4B7B-A797-A87A9647A486.jpeg (71KB - 33 downloads)
Attachments 7FFD7CD2-3DA7-4D0E-884B-5B5BDBC7C9C4.jpeg (84KB - 28 downloads)
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billy
Posted 2018-01-03 11:49 AM (#555524 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: upstate new york
Looking Good Nathan....
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billy
Posted 2018-01-03 12:02 PM (#555525 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 273
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Location: upstate new york
Word to the wise...i kinda skimped when i bought the dual exhaust for my 57 New Yorker...ended up biting me in the ars....the muffler blew a hole out thru the top side (where it could not be seen) heated up the floor and set my carpet, in the back seat area, on fire...i can get you a picture of mine now if you like,,,but mine is a 4 dr sedan...billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-03 12:57 PM (#555528 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4543
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Location: So. California
Thanks guys. I installed a 30 degree filter adapter right after I took the picture of the vertical one hitting the T-bar. I was anticipating it having issues so I purchased the 30 degree version ahead of time and had it ready to go.

I am just starting working on the exhaust now Billy, along with finishing up a bunch of other things on this. Snaking the 2.5" pipe between the steering gear, brake lines and T-bar is going to be a challenge so I am starting from the back of the car I bought a short section of flex tubing to figure out the bends I will need there, and reproduce it with mandrel bent pipe. And I may end up flattening the pipe a bit if I need more clearance in spots.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-09 4:36 PM (#555932 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4543
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Location: So. California
Being holed up in my garage because of the rain gave me time to work on the crossover patch for the aluminum heads. I made a cardboard template first, but ended up splitting it in half because cutting it from one piece like this wasted a lot of metal. I used 3/16" plate for it. Although harder to work with , it better matches the thickness of the cast iron and gives me more room to cut into when I grind the welds to look pretty. I welded it together at the two ends with regular wire, but will use this 55% Nickel wire when I weld it to the cast iron. I will also preheat the whole part with an oxy-acetylene torch before I begin welding it. That should seal pretty well, but I don't trust these things very much so I will put a thin layer of brass over the top of the welds afterward just to be sure. But....I can't finish it until I get a spool adapter to run this tiny spool on my welder.



(Crossover Patch Assembly.jpg)



(Crossover Patch.jpg)



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Attachments Crossover Patch Assembly.jpg (186KB - 26 downloads)
Attachments Crossover Patch.jpg (124KB - 22 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-12 3:44 PM (#556116 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4543
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Location: So. California
I finished the 2.5" stainless rear exhaust up to just past the T-bar and transmission mount. I ended up just needing to add a section of 45 degree pipe to the top center of the '59 GM tailpipe (purchased from Pypes) to make it work well on the New Yorker. Not too hard, in the end, so that was nice. Going further forward looks to be difficult. I put the pipe inside the trans crossmember, but now it looks like I need to wrap the pipe around the T-bar in order to get it up to the manifold without getting in the way of the trans cables and steering arms. This isn't going to be fun and I probably should put a break in there somewhere so I can remove it easier in the future. More work to do, but fun work nevertheless.



(Rt Tailpipe.jpg)



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Attachments Rt Tailpipe.jpg (78KB - 22 downloads)
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-13 9:04 PM (#556174 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 174
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Location: Southern CA
I’m doing some detail work on my engine right now and I like the finish on your valve covers, looks great. What brand/type paint did you use? On my brake booster I painted the end plates gold, and then fogged silver over it holding the can about 16-18” away, then four coats of clear. It toned down the gold and is pretty good match to factory. In the photo the bottom plate is the one I painted and the top plate is the factory finish, still good on the inside of the rear plate. I think the booster plates were factory anodized (different factory) but were the valve covers painted or anodized by the factory? Anybody know?

Also, it looks to me like the inner fenders can be removed, painted and replaced without removing the fenders or core support. Is that correct?

Edit: I still haven’t figured out how to convert a .jpeg photo to a .jpg photo on a mobile device, hence the hidden photo.

Edited by Leadfoot1000 2018-01-13 9:17 PM




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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-13 9:18 PM (#556175 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4543
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Location: So. California
We are talking about 300C now, just to be clear as the New Yorker valve covers were painted silver with the motor. The 300C valve covers were painted just like the air cleaners with the gold paint. I used dupicolor gold engine paint which seems to be a pretty good match for the original color, but this particular can came out a little lighter for some reason, but still close. The '58 air cleaners from Sweden on my motor are darker than original color. If you want a more shiny look, you can spray a urethane clear over that afterward.

Your brake plates look great, much better than mine. When or if I ever take it off again I will give that a try. Unfortunately, no, the inner fenders are integrally tied to the outer fenders and the core support. It is actually kind of difficult to put the fenders on without chipping and scratching the paint on the inner fenders because they interlock on the top and front of them.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-13 9:30 PM (#556177 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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I used vht high temp engine paint on mine.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-engine-metallic

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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-01-13 11:28 PM (#556187 - in reply to #555932)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Location: Ontario, Canada
Powerflite - 2018-01-09 4:36 PM

Being holed up in my garage because of the rain gave me time to work on the crossover patch for the aluminum heads. I made a cardboard template first, but ended up splitting it in half because cutting it from one piece like this wasted a lot of metal. I used 3/16" plate for it. Although harder to work with , it better matches the thickness of the cast iron and gives me more room to cut into when I grind the welds to look pretty. I welded it together at the two ends with regular wire, but will use this 55% Nickel wire when I weld it to the cast iron. I will also preheat the whole part with an oxy-acetylene torch before I begin welding it. That should seal pretty well, but I don't trust these things very much so I will put a thin layer of brass over the top of the welds afterward just to be sure. But....I can't finish it until I get a spool adapter to run this tiny spool on my welder.


Why not use stick Ni-rod, you can overfill and it will grind down nicely?

Greg
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