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'57 New Yorker Coupe
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-13 11:29 PM (#556188 - in reply to #556175)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I was under the impression that New Yorker valve covers were gold from the factory. Mine are silver but the engine has been previously rebuilt, I assumed they were painted silver out of convenience during the rebuild. So you have seen non repainted New Yorker engines and they were always silver? When I search for New Yorker engines, there are some gold covers, but mostly they are silver. Hard for me to determine without seeing an original one.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-14 2:19 AM (#556191 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Greg, I didn't use a Ni rod for the simple reason that I don't have a stick welder. All I have is Mig and Oxy-Acetylene. I have never used the Ni wire on cast iron until now, but it really does a great job. I just finished welding it up today and it turned out great. I was going to run brass over the top of it, but it worked so well that I am going to try it without the brass and see how it goes. I have no reason to believe that it will leak at all. The welds came out really nice and also really hard. It is a form of hardened stainless when finished welding so grinding the welds is a little more time consuming, but not too bad. One odd thing was that the length came out too long when I used the other 392 with 331 heads compared to the aluminum heads. So I had to grind the part smaller and tack weld it together on the aluminum headed motor instead. It was a significant amount like 1/8" difference.

Steve, yes, New Yorker valve covers are silver from the factory. Lots of owners copy the gold 300 look though because it looks great that way. One thing that I am unsure of is if a dealer installed the dual quad option on a New Yorker, would they then have painted the covers gold to match the air cleaners or left them silver? My guess is they probably would have left them silver. But it doesn't really matter much to me though. I am painting them to match because it looks good that way.


Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-14 10:25 AM




(Crossover Done.jpg)



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big m
Posted 2018-01-15 1:02 PM (#556304 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looks great!!!!!
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57burb
Posted 2018-01-15 6:00 PM (#556337 - in reply to #556304)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Re: Valve cover and air cleaner gold paint, from Wayne Graefen's '57 300 C handbook:

SEMI GLOSS CHRYSLER BRONZE
- Valve covers
- Air cleaners + filter can side wing nuts
NOTE: The factory supplied paint for these was literally a bronze powder to be mixed with clear enamel. Factory drawing #1821398 states to paint assembly "Gold C9090C per process standard #807"
NOTE: Air cleaners were made by AC Corp. and painted by them prior to shipping. It is not uncommon on an authentic original car to find a different shade (usually lighter) of paint on the air cleaners than that of the valve covers which are believed to have been painted either by Chrysler or another outside supplier.



As mentioned, this is 300 specification only. Most (all?) New Yorkers were built with silver valve covers and a single black air cleaner. I have never seen a NYer with the optional dual quad intake, so I can't comment on how those engines were finished.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-01-15 9:19 PM (#556355 - in reply to #556191)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Powerflite - 2018-01-14 2:19 AM

Greg, I didn't use a Ni rod for the simple reason that I don't have a stick welder. All I have is Mig and Oxy-Acetylene. I have never used the Ni wire on cast iron until now, but it really does a great job. I just finished welding it up today and it turned out great. I was going to run brass over the top of it, but it worked so well that I am going to try it without the brass and see how it goes. I have no reason to believe that it will leak at all. The welds came out really nice and also really hard. It is a form of hardened stainless when finished welding so grinding the welds is a little more time consuming, but not too bad. One odd thing was that the length came out too long when I used the other 392 with 331 heads compared to the aluminum heads. So I had to grind the part smaller and tack weld it together on the aluminum headed motor instead. It was a significant amount like 1/8" difference.

Steve, yes, New Yorker valve covers are silver from the factory. Lots of owners copy the gold 300 look though because it looks great that way. One thing that I am unsure of is if a dealer installed the dual quad option on a New Yorker, would they then have painted the covers gold to match the air cleaners or left them silver? My guess is they probably would have left them silver. But it doesn't really matter much to me though. I am painting them to match because it looks good that way.

Very nice, Nathan. What shielding gas did you use for the mig?
Greg
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-15 10:05 PM (#556357 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Hey Burb, thanks for confirmation of the clarification on NY’er valve cover color. Silver is fine with me. If I ever added dual quads I would probably use gold like Nathan is. It’s tempting though as the single WCFB doesn’t seem to flow enough air to satisfy the beast.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-16 1:38 PM (#556398 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks John and Danny for the info. Greg, I used the same 75% argon, 25% CO2 that I use with the regular wire. That mix was recommended by the manufacturer of the nickel wire too. Steve, you can purchase a newer ('59-'65?) AFB with a small air horn on it that's a much larger size from a 413 motor. That would wake that motor up quite a bit. I think the later carbs are larger than the earlier ones so probably best to look at carbs from the mid '60's.

I made the base plate for the trans mount and found that the '70 Ford Galaxy inner bearing race that I yank from the front rotors (for the Scarebird conversion) makes a nice centering ring for the '62-'65 trans mount. I need to figure out the proper height for it to sit before I finish the gusseting and attach the mount. I also purchased the proper 3-groove water pump pulley as I happened to see it for sale on Ebay, and I got the alternator mounted to the *mostly* correct position on a modified bracket, with spacer.



(57NY Alternator & Mount.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Alternator & Mount.jpg (188KB - 36 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-16 3:08 PM (#556407 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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looks darn good. what distributor fits under there?
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57burb
Posted 2018-01-16 5:54 PM (#556416 - in reply to #556407)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Looking great!
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-16 10:20 PM (#556426 - in reply to #556407)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks, I'm using the stock small block electronic distributor with an HEI module mounted to the bottom of it. Fits just like the original. But my high power coil is harder to find a good place for. I will probably make a mount for it off the back of the rear carb. Today I futzed with adjusting the rotating motor mounts and found that you can really move the motor around quite a bit. Now I have about 5/8" clearance to the steering box and 7/16" to the right control arm mount. I am thinking that the left mount I used will sink a little over time so I am going to leave it there, but I ended up just using mounts that had centered bolts in them instead of the offset versions. I started out with the right side all the way up, and the left all the way down. That was a miserable combination.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-18 11:20 AM (#556514 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the tips on the afb carb Nathan, that’s a good idea, I’ll keep it in mind. That’s a neat trick you’re doing there adjusting the motor mounts for optimum clearance. Are the stock mounts adjustable? If not what mounts are you using? My clearance at the master cylinder to valve cover is minimal, if I could lower the engine even 1/4” it would make my day.
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-18 11:45 AM (#556517 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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the mounts have that offset rubber hole so you can rotate that a move things a bit. when you say small block you just mean a poly distributor? like off a 70's 318? like this with a "hemi" adapter to get the extra length? I think something like this would work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/65K-HEI-IGNITION-DISTRIBUTOR-for-CHRYSLER-D...

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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-18 9:02 PM (#556542 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Yes a 318 distributor from '71-'77 or so (pre lean-burn). The HEI version you posted won't work because the cap is too big to fit well. I make and sell my own HEI conversion, and I am my own best customer!
http://designed2drive.com/

Steve, the mount looks like this so that rotating the rubber part of the mount in the housing will move the motor around. But the later versions got rid of the adjustment and just has them centered in the mount.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-18 9:08 PM




(Dist_Side_Wires.JPG)



(57Mount.jpg)



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Attachments Dist_Side_Wires.JPG (19KB - 24 downloads)
Attachments 57Mount.jpg (20KB - 28 downloads)
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billy
Posted 2018-01-22 11:50 AM (#556739 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Coming along really nice Nathan...I learn so much from this site...Did not know what color the stock valve covers and air cleaner were...now i do...somehow I ended up with red air cleaner when i bought it in 1977....
billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-22 7:36 PM (#556768 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Billy. The problem with a black & white car is most of the engine bay is black and silver. Makes for a dull colored engine bay. But at least the gold is spicing it up quite a bit. I got a couple of things done. First, I installed an electric choke on the rear carb with custom linkage that I made up. I still need to take the rear carb back off to make a bracket to mount the coil, and to drill out the back end to install a PCV hose to the backside of it. I also had a power steering hose made up for it. I used brake line with inverted flare fittings and brazed those lines to other fittings made for this. The pump side used 3/8" tube and the box side used 1/4" tube, but I re-used the 1/4" fitting since it was a unique female version. I decided to powder-coat the wire covers and brake vacuum tank. I figured they would be more durable that way and the chances of me painting the tank without a run in this colder weather seemed small. But you can't have any filler when you powder coat so you get what you get and my tank looks a little pitted in places, but still looks really good nevertheless. I didn't find any big difference in how well the marine covers fit verses the standard ones yet. The sticking point is the height, and they are both about the same height.

I was disappointed to find out that the air cleaners don't clear the hood when it is down. The hood is resting on the grill when it is down, but it should be close to where it will sit. The other single air cleaner that I have is a little shorter for some reason. I didn't think that they made 2 different versions, but apparently they did. I may be forced to find another one of those to use instead of these because I can't reduce the height any further than it is without creating linkage problems with the carbs.



(392 Choke2.jpg)



(300 Air Cleaners.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-23 6:50 PM (#556824 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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This carburetor from '57 had a 1/4 pipe boss on the back of it with an entrance to the intake plenum, but it wasn't drilled through and wasn't tapped. So I drilled and tapped it to provide a PCV port connection.



(PCV Connection.jpg)



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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-01-23 6:58 PM (#556825 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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just making me more happy I'm going with a EFI holly carb setup... I hope... hey its even gold.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_e...
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-24 1:59 PM (#556862 - in reply to #556825)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I like the idea of those self-contained EFI units. I have one from FiTech that I will be trying to adapt to the slant 6 in my Lancer wagon. But putting them on an older car makes it necessary to adapt the air cleaner housing, which would be a real pain on a dual 4 job like this car with very limited hood clearance. I would probably end up having to fab up a whole new inlet on it.

I made a coil mount with vertical gussets that bolts to the backside of the carb. Hopefully it won't whack the coil on the heater housing, but that was the best I could do with it because space is so limiited. I didn't want to mount it too far away from the distributor with a super long wire so this is where it ended up. We'll see how well it works once I start it up.



(Hemi Coil Bracket.jpg)



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57burb
Posted 2018-01-25 12:50 PM (#556908 - in reply to #556862)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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The engine compartment is shaping up nice. Sorry to hear about the hood clearance issue.

Just thinking out loud here. If you end up wanting to change the location of that coil, what about a spot inside the car? The area of the cowl under the dash and forward of the door at the passenger foot well might have enough room. Extend the + and - coil wires, then one of these at the firewall: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/40325/10002/-1
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-25 6:10 PM (#556919 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks for the suggestion. I wasn't aware that such a thing existed. But if it gives me any trouble or looks too close for comfort, I will make a bracket to hold it on the side of the intake. I was just trying to make it less visible since it is obviously not stock. But I doubt it will be an issue because the exhaust is going to hit everything else before the coil does. I guess it's a good thing that I spent a lot of money and trouble to balance the motor before I put it back together.

I finished the front section of the right side exhaust today, but I still need to connect the front to the rear section. This is version no. 2. I first tried to make the exhaust exit to the outside so that I could always keep it above the T-bars; but it required some pretty severe kinks because 2.5" pipe just doesn't want to bend that fast. And it would be impossible to try and do that on the left side with the steering box and all the cables going through that area. So I put it toward the inside instead and will have to go under the T-bar as it goes back above the trans crossmember. To make that situation less painful, I put a ball socket connector in that region so it could be disconnected easily in case I need to mess with the T-bars or remove the exhaust for some other reason. It isn't a bad arrangement though because it does go above and behind the steering and doesn't go lower until it gets to the transmission pan. In fact, the exhaust doesn't hang much lower than the 2 qt extra deep oil pan on the transmission.

Edit: The phillips screws in my wire covers are only temporary. I am ordering flat-drive oval-head versions like the originals. And thanks Danny for the flange suggestion. It worked out well.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-25 10:29 PM




(57NY RtFrnt Exhaust.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-26 1:41 PM (#556965 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I made up some carb linkage. I used 1/4" tubing and welded 2 nuts on long 10-32 bolts into the ends to mount the heim joints. I didn't use progressive linkage because my old motor was more responsive and seemed to run better with fixed linkage. The other connection I had to hand fabricate from a different piece. I heated the round rod up red hot and flattened it with a hammer, and then cut a slot into it. It works and is very strong because of the forging process, but looks a little home-made. Oh well. I may try cleaning it up a little, or I may just leave it. The routing of that heater hose bugs me. I am thinking of cutting a hole in the generator bracket to route it under there. I am ordering a 45 degree fitting to finally mount the vacuum switch. That should get it out of the way of everything, but it might look a little goofy.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-01-26 1:56 PM




(57NY Carb Linkage.jpg)



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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-26 10:42 PM (#556989 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Lookin good. Maybe you can make a bracket out of some strap, similar to original with a rolled hoop at the top, that mounts to the intake and holds the heater hose away from the carbs.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-01-26 11:51 PM (#556991 - in reply to #556919)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Powerflite - 2018-01-25 6:10 PM

Edit: The phillips screws in my wire covers are only temporary. I am ordering flat-drive oval-head versions like the originals. And thanks Danny for the flange suggestion. It worked out well.


While slot head screws were more common, Phillips and even hex head were also used so none could be considered wrong!

Thanks for the shielding gas info.

Greg
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-30 9:09 PM (#557242 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Steve, when I routed the heater hose between the alternator & intake; I think where it is supposed to go, it worked pretty well. I just didn't have it in the right spot. Thanks for the input Greg. I have only seen the slotted heads on the 4-5 original Chrysler motors that I have come across. And those screws have a unique built-in star type of lock washer on them. Do you know if there was a difference for Chrysler vs. Dodge vs. DeSoto?

I mostly finished making the trans mount adapter for the '62-'65 trans. It centers it's original rubber mount on the Ford inner bearing race and mounts with a single screw up from below. The 2 mounting holes toward the front are already present on the crossmember, but the rear one I had to drill into it to mount this to the top of it. The center of the trans mount sits approximately 2.5" in front of the front flange of the crossmember. The bearing race sitting directly on the mount puts the transmission centerline at approximately 4" above the crossmember, which is pretty close to the stock location. I have left the ring loose in case I want/need to move the mounting hole and center or raise the trans to a different location, but that shouldn't be necessary.



(57NY Trans Mount.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-01-30 9:16 PM (#557243 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I also decided to replace the Pypes racepro mufflers with some 24" stainless Dynomax Ultraflow mufflers. The Pypes mufflers are basically the same design as these, but they are too short at 14" long. That makes them louder than I would like them to be. I will probably use them on my '33 Chevy where it will be more appropriate to have louder mufflers. But these 24" Dynomax units should work out pretty well on this car.



(57NY Dynomax SS Mufflers.jpg)



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58DeSoDodge59
Posted 2018-01-30 11:16 PM (#557247 - in reply to #557243)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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You do good work Sir.
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-01-31 1:08 AM (#557252 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I have a 20” pair of those same mufflers sitting in my parts room patiently waiting their turn to be installed. I’ve heard them on other cars and they sound great, connecting them to a Hemi can only improve the note :-) I think you made a good choice.

Edited by Leadfoot1000 2018-01-31 1:10 AM
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-05 9:29 PM (#557580 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Steve & Kurt. Your cars are coming along nicely too! This car seems to take forever to get running, but it is mostly because of the lack of proper parts. I'm still waiting for the proper speedometer cable so I can fill the trans and attempt to start the motor for the first time. Of course it needs a lot of other details addressed first like crimping the plug wires and finishing the exhaust. But at least I have the entire right side and left rear exhaust finished; so I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now.

Tonight, I removed the push button shifter to test the switches on it and to install the new dash pad. I also removed the crimped bracket on the end of the '63 push button cable so I could insert a heat-shrink tube with built-in sealer over it. This will help to protect the cable sheath (down by the transmission end) and hopefully prevent it from leaking in the future. Removing that bracket also helps to get the cable through the firewall easier. Measuring it out, it looks to barely make it through the hole in the firewall with the bracket still attached, maybe. The only problem will be trying to re-crimp it with the cable coming through the dash, but I think I can handle that with a very large pair of channel locks. The bracket and geometry looks exactly the same as the original '57 cable, except that the original cable was a much bigger diameter on the cable part itself. Apparently, they discovered that they could get away with using a smaller cable size in the early sixties.

Edit: Except....that I have a major problem with my plan. My shifter cable is too short! I should have expected that really. Now I need to look for a cable from a truck or maybe a C or D-body? Great, just what I wanted to do.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-02-05 10:11 PM




('63 PBCable Sleeve.jpg)



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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-11 2:06 AM (#557885 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I am trying to get the windshield re-installed to ensure that I don't get rain water on my dash. So I spent a couple days installing the dash pad. It took a lot longer than I expected, mainly because everything you install back onto it is an adventure. Holes must be cut, positions secured with often missing or improper hardware. I ended up breaking the lower screw in the mirror mount because of the stress applied from the new pad in the way of the screws. That wasn't fun to remove. No access to the backside and the screw is recessed deep in a cavity. Of course the whole pad had to come off again to fix it. But I got it done and it looks pretty good now so I am happy. The pad is a little too silvery of a color, but it is close enough to look good. I left the air vent pucks loose for the time being so that I can potentially remove the pad easily in the future if needed to work on the gauge pod. Removing those air vents is a real pain that I am trying to avoid. Now I need to round up a windshield gasket and figure out how to make it work.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-02-11 2:11 AM




(57NY DashPad Installed.jpg)



(57NY DashPad Vents.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY DashPad Vents.jpg (191KB - 24 downloads)
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DejaVu
Posted 2018-02-11 5:02 AM (#557887 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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That pad and installation looks really sharp - a credit to RD and you. Envious!!
Cheers
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ToMopar
Posted 2018-02-11 7:01 AM (#557889 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Natan, great to see the success of the new dash. For me the most pain was to cut the holes into the new dash.
But you do the other way around, install the dash w/o the windshield, good idea, and much easier to fasten the screws from molding.
Could you rescue the seal of windshield?
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-11 10:43 AM (#557892 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Thanks Tom & Ian. Yes, this task was much easier with the windshield out. I don't know how I would have cut all those holes (especially the one for the mirror mount) & removed that broken screw if the windshield were in place. That would have been much more difficult. Being a California car, the windshield rubber was in 100 pieces and hard as a rock. So I purchased a pliable seal from the East coast for a 4dr sedan. I am hoping that all I have to do is cut it to remove some height out of it to make it work. We'll see how it goes.
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57burb
Posted 2018-02-11 2:28 PM (#557903 - in reply to #557892)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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The pad looks amazing, better than New. Great job getting it in there, I know what a pain that is. My coupe had a too-long mirror screw and it was actually bent between the mirror and the firewall. The only way to remove it was with the dashboard and windshield removed, and a cut off wheel.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-11 3:12 PM (#557905 - in reply to #557903)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I suspect that may be the same thing that happened to me - using a screw that was too long and bending the end on it; because it would not come out no matter what. That is definitely the worst place to break off a screw that I have encountered. I got lucky and was able to twist it all the way through after I drilled a hole through it. Welding a nut to it was extremely difficult and still didn't allow me to remove it - but did get a little more of the screw out of there so it had more room to twist back down and out.
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miquelonbrad
Posted 2018-02-12 7:23 AM (#557937 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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WOW!!! That looks awesome! If I was doing work outside right now, the car would be covered in snow, and my hands would be numb...it's -30c here!
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Leadfoot1000
Posted 2018-02-12 12:00 PM (#557952 - in reply to #557937)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 174
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miquelonbrad - 2018-02-12 4:23 AM

WOW!!! That looks awesome! If I was doing work outside right now, the car would be covered in snow, and my hands would be numb...it's -30c here!


I was painting some parts outside last week and a couple of them got too warm hanging in the sun, the paint wasn’t flowing so good on the surface. I moved them to a shady spot to finish.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-12 1:51 PM (#557971 - in reply to #557952)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
Very true Steve. Last week was too hot, if anything. -22F sounds too frigid for my bones, but having a nice big shop like you do makes me very envious. Put a pot bellied wood burner in the middle of that shop, and you would have instant heat, really cheap. I grew up with a wood burning stove, and they work really well if you put them in the middle of the room.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-13 1:34 PM (#558042 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
I took the easy way out and had my fenders & left door media-blasted. This is the replacement door that I am building up since the original had a lot of bondo on it. I had already repaired some rust on the outer skin lap joint that is visible at the bottom of the photo. I just need to clean up the welds on it. I told them to only lightly blast the insides to remove anything that is loose. If the undercoating is stuck on well, just leave it. Nevertheless, 99% of the undercoating was removed. Looks like almost all of it was only loosely holding on. I found a couple of small repairs on the left fender that I didn't know was there and a small rust spot on the right fender. If you want to find extra work to do on your perfect body panels, have them sandblasted and you will see all sorts of new work appear! I sealed the insides of the fenders and will seal the outsides soon too, to prevent rust from starting. But I will try to get the majority of the repairs done before I finish it.

Edited by Powerflite 2018-02-13 1:44 PM




(SandBlasted Fenders.jpg)



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Attachments SandBlasted Fenders.jpg (220KB - 25 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-14 12:58 PM (#558102 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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I bought this pliable windshield gasket from back east and got it pretty cheap because it was from a '57 4dr sedan. I figured I could try cutting it to shorten the height and make it work. But I tried it out today and found that it already fits perfectly. It must have been from a 4dr hardtop instead. You can imagine my disappointment when I found that out. It has a lot of misc debri stuck to it in the channel for the metal flange that I need to clean out, but it is one of the more pliable gaskets I have seen, so I am happy. I feel that the lack of good window rubber is the biggest problem with working on these cars.



(57 Window Rubber.jpg)



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Attachments 57 Window Rubber.jpg (181KB - 19 downloads)
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mikes2nd
Posted 2018-02-14 11:32 PM (#558127 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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it isn't fun, I sold a 2 door ht front seal and regret it but I think I'm good, I have my hoarding under control you could cut it but yes a 4 dr ht fits. Nice score.
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ToMopar
Posted 2018-02-15 2:45 AM (#558130 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: D-70199 Heslach
Nathan, - what is pretty cheap?
I paid $325 for a used seal + shipping !! At the end I decide to use "my" old seal instead of the $325 seal

By the way, check the thread http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=50768 about windscreen interchangable and according to the windshield is the seal
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57burb
Posted 2018-02-15 11:06 AM (#558140 - in reply to #558130)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Great score! If it fits your coupe opening, then it certainly came from a 4dr hardtop.

Tom, I'd say the price you paid is on the high side for sure - especially for a part you did not use.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-02-15 11:10 PM (#558182 - in reply to #558102)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Posts: 1579
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Location: Ontario, Canada
Powerflite - 2018-02-14 12:58 PM

I bought this pliable windshield gasket from back east and got it pretty cheap because it was from a '57 4dr sedan. I figured I could try cutting it to shorten the height and make it work. But I tried it out today and found that it already fits perfectly. It must have been from a 4dr hardtop instead. You can imagine my disappointment when I found that out. It has a lot of misc debri stuck to it in the channel for the metal flange that I need to clean out, but it is one of the more pliable gaskets I have seen, so I am happy. I feel that the lack of good window rubber is the biggest problem with working on these cars.


I'm sure most will say not to do it --- and I would have been one of them, but, use lots of lacquer thinner soaked scotchbrite pads. It will eat your rubber gloves off and it will be a week before your black fingers get clean!

It will dissolve the surface of the rubber and even seal small weather cracks. It will further soften the rubber and clean up all the debris including layers of body repaint! It will take a lot of rubbing. You will wind up with a nice satin gloss to the rubber and I could take close-ups of my Regal to show what it will look like 20 years from now if you want!!

Go for it!

Greg
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-16 1:34 AM (#558190 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
Tom, I paid around $60 + shipping, but like I said; it was listed for a sedan so no one else bid on it. Greg, that's an interesting idea to use lacquer thinner. I didn't know that it would affect the rubber that way. I was going to clean it up with hand cleaner like I have heard others use, but I needed to get it installed asap so I could leave on vacation without worrying about my new dash getting wet. I also didn't trust myself with a brand new windshield because I have never installed one before. So I quickly put the crappy old glass back in and I didn't bother cleaning the rubber very much or the windshield first. It was more of a practice run, but I wish I would have lubed it up more because it was pretty difficult to install. I wanted to set the bottom of the glass first so that I had gravity working on my side, but I found that I couldn't do it that way because I couldn't get the glass to clear the lip over the roof. So I had to install it at the top first, and then pry out the rubber from under the glass at the bottom. It seemed harder than it should have been, but I got it done and the seal worked out great. I will pull it back out when I get a new windshield for it and do a better job of it. One issue that I noticed was that the corners had a lot bigger gap in the rubber than what was on the car so the 2 bottom corners aren't sealing well to the car. It's going to need a good amount of sealer to keep the water out of those areas.
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Viper Guy
Posted 2018-02-16 10:33 PM (#558237 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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We use lacquer thinner to clean all reusable rubber at Bob Schmidt's Smitty's Classic Cars restroation shop. It cleans and softens nicely with the vent window rubber being the most "popular" mainly because the vent window frames often need rechroming. We "slick" them up with Armour All for installation.

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billy
Posted 2018-02-22 11:38 AM (#558617 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 263
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Location: upstate new york
Dash looks amazing,,,where did you get it? How much am i looking to do the same...I need green though..
billy
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-22 12:23 PM (#558620 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: Re: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Using Armour All would have made installing the rubber much easier for sure. I purchased the new dash pad from Sweden from R.D. Autoline. http://autoline.se/?lang=en_us They come in black only, but you can have them paint it for you if you email them an accurate picture of the color.

I had a pint of paint mixed up, custom matched to the paint on the backside of my trim panels and painted all of the trim and mirror parts.
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-02-24 5:24 PM (#558776 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Posts: 4432
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I spent the day making all the wiring & tightening all the fittings I had neglected to do. I also made a new coil bracket. The old one was just too tight and really limited my ability to mess with the distributor so I moved it to under the right side air cleaner. The bracket to stabilize the air cleaner currently hits the coil, but I will bend it out a little bit. I am thinking of possibly mounting that to one of the bolts that holds the coil together since it is really close to it. I may also/instead make a bracket from the choke housing to the coil, but it really doesn't need it because it is held pretty tight. But that may help prevent vibration issues as things loosen up a little with time.



(57NY Coil Bracket.jpg)



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Attachments 57NY Coil Bracket.jpg (120KB - 18 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2018-03-03 10:18 PM (#559163 - in reply to #529650)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe



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Location: So. California
I finished the exhaust yesterday so I started working on all the little details required to run the motor like filling everything with the proper fluids etc. I couldn't get the oil pressure line removed from the back of the gauge pod so I just installed the oil line to a separate gauge setting on the floor. I am thinking it might be easier to remove the pressure gauge with the line still attached and swap the lines outside, but I'm sure it's easier said than done.

After I finished with all that, I hooked up a battery and got the motor running today! It started right up at first so that was cool, but it immediately started spewing fuel all over the place because apparently the front carb was put together with mismatched parts so that the top isn't sealed to the bottom. I'm pretty sure I bought that carb as a fully rebuilt deal. So I plugged off the front fuel line and tried running it with the rear carb only. But I couldn't get it started and noticed that the rear carb was dribbling fuel out of it too. So I replaced both carbs with two 400 cfm afb's that I had originally purchased to use with this motor. With these carbs, I was able to get the motor running again and got it to idle pretty well once I adjusted the regular & fast idle screws way down from where they were. I think the dual quads don't require as much preset to idle. The motor gave me a scare at first because I heard a low end knock, but it turned out to be just from too much advance. Once I retarded the ignition more, it went away. The power steering works well so that's nice. I didn't get a chance to shift the trans but I will try it out once I get some coolant in the motor. Next up is to install the radiator support along with the radiator.

The new carbs have the large air cleaner opening so I will have to rebuild the old ones or swap tops so I can run the old air cleaners. I expect that I should be able to reubuild the rear carb, but the front carb is pretty hopless without the right parts. So I will probably keep the other carbs on there for a while until I get it figured out.
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LD3 Greg
Posted 2018-03-04 12:10 AM (#559168 - in reply to #559163)
Subject: RE: '57 New Yorker Coupe


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Location: Ontario, Canada
Those oil lines/fittings are weird. Sort of like a ball joint! I always managed to wrench them off but it took more pressure than one would normally be comfortable with!!

Sounds like the ongoing problems I had with that marine engine. Go for it ------- you will win!

Greg
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