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Door Panel Restoration Questions
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-13 7:44 PM (#531283)
Subject: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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I have just removed the driver's door panel on my 56 Custom Royal Trim Code TR = 541 (looks like the photo below, that one is perfect, mine has some water damage, particularly at the front bottom).

The questions:

1. What is the door panel material? Pressed cardboard? Masonite? I was planning to use thin Masonite. I once saw replacement panels on eBay but stupidly I passed on them. Now I can't find them.

2. I see the stainless trim strips are held on to the panel with metal tabs that have gone through holes and then bent over. I will gently bend the tabs up and remove the trim. Any other hints?

3. I see that the panel material is folded over and stapled to the panel at the edges on the backside of the panel I will gently remove the staples and then fold the panel material off the panel. What should I expect for the main connection of the panel materials to the panel? Glue? If so, how to I separate the material from the panel? And then how to I reapply the material to the new panel.

4. I was semi-pleasantly surprised to see that the door itself has a "moisture" barrier between the metal of the door and the panel that I just removed. It seems to just be a heavy paper. Maybe waxed or coated??? I need to remove it to access the door lock for re-keying. Should I re-use that material or replace it a modern material, e.g. 6 mil polyethylene vapour barrier or ?? And suggestions?

Ah the fun never ends. (which is a good thing)



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-01-14 2:25 AM
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mstrug
Posted 2017-01-13 9:03 PM (#531286 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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http://www.ebay.com/itm/132045673893?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&s...
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-01-13 10:21 PM (#531292 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: RE: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Yes, I would replace that old water barrier with plastic sheeting. That water barrier is the only thing that is preventing your door panels from warping so it is pretty important. I paint the backs of the door panels with a good sealer as well. Also, I like to tuck the ends into the last opening in the door so that any moisture that collects on it will roll down into the door and not end up between the sheet and the door, possibly leaking down onto your panel. I like to use hot glue to attach that plastic to the door frame. But it does have the possibility of melting if it gets too hot. But I have never had an issue with it there.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-14 1:40 AM (#531303 - in reply to #531286)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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mstrug - 2017-01-13 9:03 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/132045673893?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&s...

Thanks. That was the website I had misplaced all right.

I just tried to buy a set (mostly because they will have the holes in the right place) but after the BUY IT NOW, I was never asked which car specifically I was buying for and then the shipping charges came up as $82 for a $79 item. So I stopped and contacted the seller to resolve these issues first.

Hopefully the proper shipping charge is reasonable.

Dave F.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-14 1:45 AM (#531305 - in reply to #531292)
Subject: RE: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Powerflite - 2017-01-13 10:21 PM Yes, I would replace that old water barrier with plastic sheeting. That water barrier is the only thing that is preventing your door panels from warping so it is pretty important. I paint the backs of the door panels with a good sealer as well. Also, I like to tuck the ends into the last opening in the door so that any moisture that collects on it will roll down into the door and not end up between the sheet and the door, possibly leaking down onto your panel. I like to use hot glue to attach that plastic to the door frame. But it does have the possibility of melting if it gets too hot. But I have never had an issue with it there.


Thanks. Sounds like a plan. I have done something similar on a 1986 VW Jetta that I had for 21 years. I also rust proofed the inside of the door and made sure that the drain holes were nice and open. I added a second skirt to the poly sheeting that directed the water into the door, not the car. I used red "TUCK" tape, that is used on housing wrap to seal the panels together, etc.

To be honest, I didn't expect any form of sheeting so it was a bit of a pleasant surprise. That said 60 year old paper is probably not going to be as effective as modern materials.

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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-14 4:20 PM (#531349 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: RE: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Okay with the door panel off the car and inside nice and warm over night, I took to start (and finish) the removal of the door panel material from the cardboard backing board.

First step was removal of the wire/spring clips along the edges of the door card. Most of them were missing or very rusty. They didn't put up much of a struggle.

Second step was removal of the stainless steel trim. These were held on by either wide metal tabs that had gone through holes and then been bent over OR thin metal pins that had gone through smaller holes and then been bent over. Using a small flat blade screw driver I lifted the pins and then with a pair slide cutter pliers got under the tabs or pins and gently bent them up, perpendicular to the trim. I also used lineman's electrical pliers to gently straighten the tabs and pins. Then I gently urged the trim off the panel, starting at one end and working towards the other end.

Third step was removing the many short staples that had been used to hold the edges of the material to the door card. Small flat blade screw driver to get them started and then pliers to remove them.

Fourth step was to start pulling the material off the door card. I started at the bottom because that is where the material had already come loose from the door card due to probably water and neglect (the other doors are fine BTW).
As I gently pulled the material off, I saw that the bottom solid blue vinyl material (naugahyde?) was cloth backed and sewn to the patterned vinyl material. I also noticed that there was a padding of sorts between the vinyl material and the actual door card. It was a kind of a fluffy cardboard and will not be reused. The middle light blue vinyl seems to have been glued/heat welded to the other materials. On the slanted part of the light blue vinyl, the material was stapled to the door card in a couple of locations. The embossed "chrome" mylar material at the panel was glued to the material below it and also to the fluffy backing attached to the door card. I used an old rounded edge 3" "putty" knife to carefully and gently separate the mylar material from the door card.

There is one split/rip in the blue patterned vinyl near the top, on the slanted forward edge of the panel, at the edge just above the window crank. I think that I am going to use a denim heat patch, the type your mother might have used back in the day to fix your dungarees when you blew the knee(s) out of the pant legs. On the back of the door material of course. Should leave the split almost invisible.

I am not sure if my purchase of the eBay door cards is going to happen AND, if not, I will flatten the warped OE door card with something heavy and trace out the outline on 1/8" (or thinner?) Masonite (or the like). (And then figure out where all the various round and rectangular holes go). I will use my Bosch jigsaw, electric drill and wood chisels, as needed.

While I wait to hear back from the eBay door card seller, I need to investigate new padding material (probably closed cell polyethylene foam as used for laminate flooring underlay) and new spring clips (I think my local NAPA can get those). I see there are a few Youtube videos on the subject.

Thankfully all the other door cards in my 56 Dodge are fine.

This is my target/goal:



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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-14 5:42 PM (#531362 - in reply to #531349)
Subject: RE: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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56D500boy - 2017-01-14 4:20 PM
I am not sure if my purchase of the eBay door cards is going to happen AND, if not, I will flatten the warped OE door card with something heavy and trace out the outline on 1/8" (or thinner?) Masonite (or the like). (And then figure out where all the various round and rectangular holes go). I will use my Bosch jigsaw, electric drill and wood chisels, as needed. While I wait to hear back from the eBay door card seller, I need to investigate new padding material (probably closed cell polyethylene foam as used for laminate flooring underlay) and new spring clips (I think my local NAPA can get those). I see there are a few Youtube videos on the subject.
:)


Heard back from the seller:

"We will cancel order immediately. UPS has increased their shipping charges again. Two years ago it raised our price to ship from PA east coast to CA west coast a glove box from $17.00 to $32.00. We have not changed our size of box or weight on your item but before the first of the year it would have cost around $45- $55.00 to ship. These are considered oversize shipping by both UPS & FedEx. Ebay makes the adjustments on their end so we do not know if this is a mistake on estimating on their part or another ridiculous hike by UPS. Sorry Mike"

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ttotired
Posted 2017-01-14 6:16 PM (#531366 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Being "international" I laugh at some of the postage cost complaints from you lot in the US, but, one thing to consider is, is not paying the extra few bucks
shipping worth the extra hours of work involved to make the panel yourself? And will it be as good as a machine stamped one?

Just a thought

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bbrasse1
Posted 2017-01-14 6:59 PM (#531369 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions


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I wouls also add that replacing the door channels and wiskers on both sides will help reduce the amount of water that will find its way to the door bottom and panel. PLastic is very important. masonite falls apart when wet and then there is nothing to support vinyl, chrome strips etc. All above great advice.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-14 7:21 PM (#531371 - in reply to #531366)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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ttotired - 2017-01-14 6:16 PM Being "international" I laugh at some of the postage cost complaints from you lot in the US, but, one thing to consider is, is not paying the extra few bucks
shipping worth the extra hours of work involved to make the panel yourself? And will it be as good as a machine stamped one? Just a thought


I understand what you are saying but I only really need the one panel (the other three are fine) and the shipping cost that only showed up at the last PayPal step was US$82 for UPS whereas the cost of the four panels was "only" $79. That just stuck in my craw severely.

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mstrug
Posted 2017-01-14 8:45 PM (#531376 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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You are lucky that you have good Panels for the most part. I have to make my own:

 photo 58plyrattleboxinterior4_zpsmnin2zdm.jpg






Edited by mstrug 2017-01-14 10:18 PM
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-14 9:09 PM (#531377 - in reply to #531376)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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mstrug - 2017-01-14 8:45 PM You are lucky that you have good Panels for the most part. I have to make my own:


Your photos didn't work
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-14 9:11 PM (#531380 - in reply to #531369)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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bbrasse1 - 2017-01-14 6:59 PM I would also add that replacing the door channels and whiskers on both sides will help reduce the amount of water that will find its way to the door bottom and panel. PLastic is very important. masonite falls apart when wet and then there is nothing to support vinyl, chrome strips etc. All above great advice.


Definitely on the list of things to replace. Not sure what I need and where I need to buy it from though.



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-01-14 9:11 PM
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GaryS
Posted 2017-01-15 11:38 AM (#531401 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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I've used this panel material a few times. It not too expensive, works well and is waterproof, and some upholstery shops stock them. I marked the holes from the old panel and cut the new holes with a box cutter

http://www.perfectfit.com/15347/154533/Chipboard-Car-Panelboard/Bla...

I've bought cat whiskers and window channels from various places on the Internet, and they all look like they came from the same place. Gary Goers offers reasonable prices and he had most of what I needed in stock. The problem you will likely face is the method the factory used to attach the parts. some places the stainless trim is clinched over the cat whisker bead, and it would take special tooling to open and re-clinch the stainless. I trimmed and bonded the new material in place, but that would probably be frowned on if the restoration is meant to be totally stock.

One thing you might discover is that your channels and cat whiskers vary from what the catalogs list. You may have to buy a different type that does the job better...I did.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-15 12:46 PM (#531406 - in reply to #531401)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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GaryS - 2017-01-15 11:38 AM I've used this panel material a few times. It not too expensive, works well and is waterproof, and some upholstery shops stock them. I marked the holes from the old panel and cut the new holes with a box cutter. http://www.perfectfit.com/15347/154533/Chipboard-Car-Panelboard/Bla...

Thanks for the lead on the panel board. I will phone around tomorrow to see if I can find some locally.

I am confused about "cat whiskers", etc. Are we talking things like Items 12 and 26 here? I see from the parts book the item 26 Door belt weather strip has both an inner and an outer as well as a left and right and front and rear. Oh boy.



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-01-15 12:49 PM




(WindowChannels_Annotated_small.jpg)



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GaryS
Posted 2017-01-15 1:53 PM (#531413 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Cat whiskers are mostly used on surfaces that contact moving glass. Your sedan should have them stapled to the inside of the door at the belt line, and on the edge of the window surround that's closest to the glass. The factory staples can be replaced with standard stainless steel staples. I use the existing holes and guide them through by hand, as you would need a special staple gun to pierce the metal. I have also used stainless steel wire, but it doesn't secure them as tightly as staples.

The seals, runs and channels vary a lot between models, so you really have to do a lot of measuring and comparing to supplier drawings. Here is a link to the most complete dimensional information for each type that I've found on line. Some used-on manufacturers and models are specified, but as I said, that information should be used as a place to start and not taken as gospel.

www.restorationspecialties.com

Edited by GaryS 2017-01-15 1:56 PM
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-15 7:44 PM (#531440 - in reply to #531362)
Subject: RE: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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After we finished Sunday Brunch (actually Dim Sum) at a local strip mall, I popped next door to a fabric shop to see what the had for vinyl. They had a cloth-backed vinyl in "Marine" Blue that was very close to the dark solid blue in the photo (which I took with me). Bought a meter (39 inches) 54" wide for $35 CDN. That will do me for a bunch of things, the bottom of that driver's door panel being one of them (plenty to do the other 3 door panel bottoms too. Got it home and compared it to the actual OE dark blue vinyl material and the match was very very close if not identical. Score.

On the down side, I took the car out for a run (because the streets were actually dry and it was 8C out). After I pressure washed the underside at a local pressure wand wash place, I got stuck getting the car back into the garage and slid the left passenger door into the garage door opening, putting a big dint in the side of the door. Couldn't find the big toilet plunger in the house so decided to remove the inner door panel and see if the dint would pop out. I was in the middle of that when I shut the door for a moment and the hole dint popped out with a "boing". Left a couple of permanent glitches that I will have to attend to but not as bad as I thought it would be.

Never rains but it pours, while I was at the car wash I opened the hood to pressure wash the lower parts of the engine. As I do so, I notice that I have a pin-hole in the radiator that is pissing out coolant - because the car is finally fully up to temperature (and coolant pressure - 7 psi cap). One step forward and two steps back. I guess I can't be too surprised that the radiator sprung a leak. But still




Edited by 56D500boy 2017-01-15 7:56 PM
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-16 2:05 AM (#531459 - in reply to #531440)
Subject: RE: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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I found a photo of the door panel before I took it off the car and separated the material from the door card. The photo below shows the small tear that I hope to repair and the separation of the lower solid blue material from the door card. The new vinyl that I bought today will match quite well I think. I had anticipated that I would have to sew the new solid blue piece to the patterned blue material as per the factory BUT now I realize that since I will be gluing the old material to the new door card (with some padding in between), I can simply glue the new solid blue piece to the bottom of the panel. The stainless steel strip will hide the glued joint just like it hid the factory sewn joint.



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-01-16 2:08 AM




(DaveFs56CustomRoyalDriversDoorPanelWithIssueAtBottom_small.jpg)



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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-17 2:01 AM (#531533 - in reply to #531459)
Subject: RE: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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I found an automotive upholstery company today that would sell me some ABS (1/8" thick x 36" x 28") to do the door panel. At least I won't have to worry about it getting wet and warping. They also sold me 15 of the spring clips that fit into the slots in the door card (That now I have to figure out how to cut those slots. I hear a RotoZip calling my name).





Edited by 56D500boy 2017-01-17 2:11 AM
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mstrug
Posted 2017-01-17 4:14 AM (#531536 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanelInstall3.htm

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorTemplates.htm

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanel.htm



Edited by mstrug 2017-01-17 4:19 AM
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-17 10:24 AM (#531554 - in reply to #531536)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Thanks very much for the DIY links.

Dave F
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mstrug
Posted 2017-01-17 2:27 PM (#531577 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Always helps to see how other people do it...Marc.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-01-17 2:45 PM (#531580 - in reply to #531577)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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mstrug - 2017-01-17 2:27 PM Always helps to see how other people do it...Marc.


Yup. And it made me decide this AM that I will start with masonite and get a good template developed before I start on the ABS panel.

So thanks again, Marc.

Dave F.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-07-20 1:36 PM (#544467 - in reply to #531580)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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56D500boy - 2017-01-17 2:45 PM
mstrug - 2017-01-17 2:27 PM Always helps to see how other people do it...Marc.

Yup. And it made me decide this AM that I will start with masonite and get a good template developed before I start on the ABS panel.
So thanks again, Marc. Dave F.


6 months (and several other projects on my 56 Dodge ) I finally get back to this project. :roll eyes:

In the end I decided to go Masonite and make the panel. I will use the ABS that I bought for new kick panels.

Here was the starting point (and the problem - water damage and a small tear):



First task was to remove the panel (door handles off, clips and a few screws to deal with previously unresolved issues). Then it was removing the stainless steel trim (pins through holes in the skin and cardboard).

Then it was pulling the vinyl and mylar skin off the door and storing safely.

This left the door panel looking as below. It was marked D63 541 where D63 = Custom Royal and 541 = the blue two tone (+ Mylar) colour combo.

This panel became the template for cutting the new masonite panel. I marked around the outside with a black sharpy and then cut the panel with a fine blade in my Bosch jig-saw. I cut the holes for the door and window handles and the arm rest with hole saws/drill bits. Then I temporarily mounted the panel on the door, using the arm rest as a clamp. I marked where "adjustments" were needed to result in a nice even edge gap on the sides and bottom (the top was keep parallel to the top of the door). "Adjustments" were made with the jig saw and/or my belt sander. One or two more rounds of test fitting and adjusting followed.

When I was happy I laid the original panel over the new panel and marked the location of the rectangular clip holes with a sharpy. I then proceeded to "punch" the holes with a 6 mm and 19 mm wood chisel (7 or 8 mm might have been better, 19 mm was fine). As I went, I test fit the new clips and adjusted the width (typically) of the hole accordingly. Didn't take too long. With all the new clips loaded in the holes and pushed out to where they should be, I trial fitted the panel on the door again. Some clips need persuasion with a rubber mallet. NOTE: There is one clip in the middle of the panel. It needs to be pushed into the door first, before you deal with the edge clips.

Some additional adjustments were marked for belt sanding and the door panel was pulled off again and adjustment. After one more go, the panel came off and I bevelled the edge of the panel on the two vertical sides and the bottom to make the addition of the door skin easier.

Then I cut a piece of laminate flooring underlay 1/2" smaller all round and glued it (3M Type 77 Super Adhesive) to the inside of the panel. I test fit the door skin (again - this was done many times during this process) to make sure that the foam didn't mess things up. (It didn't).

Things that I still need to do:

- Paint the outside of the masonite to help waterproof it.
- fix the tear in the door skin (iron on patch from behind)
- glue the door skin to the foam (except the bottom dark blue panel)
- cut away the dark blue panel and cut an piece of the new matching dark blue marine vinyl that I bought back in Feb. and glue it do the bottom portion of the panel
- test fit the trim and drill the holes for the pins, etc, through the skin (already has the holes) and the new panel.
- install the trim
- cut the holes for the door and window handles and the armrest in the foam
- reinstall the keyed door lock
- reinstall the door handle
- lubricate the window regulator with some appropriate grease
- add a 6 mm polyethylene vapour barrier on the inside of the door
- install the door panel

Easy peasy (LOL)



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-07-20 1:42 PM




(InsideOfOE56DodgeDriversDoorPanel.jpg)



(NewMasoniteDoorPanelAtStartOfHolePunching.jpg)



(DoorPanelShowingChiselPunchedHoles.jpg)



(NewMasoniteDoorPanelAtEndOfHolePunchingWithClips.jpg)



(NewMasoniteDoorPanelAtEndOfHolePunchingWithClips_2.jpg)



(TrialFitWithClips_1.jpg)



(TrialFitWithClips_2.jpg)



(DoorPanelWithClipsAndFoamPaddingAdded.jpg)



(CheckingFitOfSkinOverTheFoam.jpg)



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Attachments DoorPanelWithClipsAndFoamPaddingAdded.jpg (130KB - 46 downloads)
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-07-20 4:02 PM (#544472 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Looks great. Nice job. When you attach the plastic barrier to the door, I find that hot glue works pretty well for that. Can you just undo the stitches on the bottom vinyl and sew the new piece onto it? The old piece may not hold up well to the new stitches, but I think it may work better than using glue. But since you have the trim that goes over it, it may not matter much as long as the glue doesn't lose it's holding strength over time.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-07-20 8:20 PM (#544501 - in reply to #544472)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Powerflite - 2017-07-20 4:02 PM Looks great. Nice job. When you attach the plastic barrier to the door, I find that hot glue works pretty well for that. Can you just undo the stitches on the bottom vinyl and sew the new piece onto it? The old piece may not hold up well to the new stitches, but I think it may work better than using glue. But since you have the trim that goes over it, it may not matter much as long as the glue doesn't lose it's holding strength over time.


I am going to attach the 6 mil poly vapour barrier to the door with "Tuck" brand red sheathing tape.



The plan with the bottom panel is to cut the old dark blue vinyl off and just use the 3M spray glue (and some 1/4" (or smaller) staples) to attach the new dark blue marine vinyl to the bottom of the panel. The old vinyl wouldn't handle much sewing without splitting, so glue it is. The long stainless trim piece will hide the "joint" regardless.

Didn't get much done this afternoon but I did prime the door card and ZeroRust the clips:



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-07-20 8:25 PM




(DoorPanelOutsideTowardsDoorPrimed.jpg)



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matte
Posted 2017-07-23 7:30 PM (#544693 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Thanks Dave for the write up. I'm in the middle of making my new cards and it's interesting to see yours.

I used PVC foam board which is getting used more and more in restorations. I did a lot of research on using it for cars before I bought some and people who have "actually" used it have nothing but good things to say. Good strong and waterproof and it can withstand the elements when being used for outside signs etc. Probably why it's being used a lot more now.

I'm deciding which glue. Very hot and humid Australian summers so it's a toss up between the 3M 90 spray or the 3M spray Trim Adhesive.

Please make sure you show the final outcome.


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56D500boy
Posted 2017-07-24 1:41 AM (#544706 - in reply to #544693)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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matte - 2017-07-23 7:30 PM Thanks Dave for the write up. I'm in the middle of making my new cards and it's interesting to see yours.
Please make sure you show the final outcome.


The PVC sign/foam board that I know would be too thick (I think) to work with the OE style spring attachment clips. But maybe there are thinner boards than what I am thinking of.

I carried on with the project today.

I worked outside because of the smell of the 3M 77 spray glue.

First thing I did was re-position the skin over the new door card. I shifted and moved the skin until I was happy with it.

Then I peeled back the top 8 inches or so and sprayed it and the card with glue. After a short period to dry, I easied the skin back down, smoothing from the center of that section outwards.

Then I lifted the skin up from the bottom and sprayed the middle section (avoiding glue on the old bottom section). Same thing, smoothing out from the center and going back over the first section.

Then I carefully cut off the bottom dark blue section that was damaged. I cut a section of the new dark blue marine vinyl (same on that I used on my rear window parcel tray project). After a test fit, I spray the board and vinyl with glue and after a short drying period, I placed the new dark blue vinyl on the door car and smoothed out from the center to the ends of the car. (I had left an extra 3/4" on the bottom and 1" on the ends to do the wrap.

Once that side was smoothed out one more time, I flipped the board over and started glueing and trimming and trimming and glueing bit of the door skin that wraps to the back side of the card. Some tricky bits on the curved parts.

Then I found my stainless steel trim pieces and straightened all their pins with pliers. Once the pins were straight, I marked to location of the holes that needed to be drilled. For the trim piece that separates the patterned vinyl from the new dark blue vinyl, I marked the hole location at the seam between the two materials. For the other two trim pieces, I used the old holes (mostly) as the location for the drilling. The flat pins got 1/8" holes the small round pins got 1/16" holes. The "hockey stick" piece needed a bit of fiddling a the upper bit. Then I carefully pushed the trim pins into their respective holes and took the photo below.

Not perfect but much much better than what I started with. I haven't bent the pins over yet to lock the trim to the door card. I am going to remove them, stick them onto/into a big piece of cardboard and use my Mother's polishing ball and some compound to shine them up (they were more scratched than I remember them).

This was end of the day today (the bumps on the lower edge of the dark blue vinyl are the attachment clips under the foam underlay that I used as the panel padding. I don't like the look but to be honest, no one will ever see that bit anyway):



Edited by 56D500boy 2017-07-24 1:48 AM




(DForgiesDriversDoorPanelNearlyThere.jpg)



Attachments
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Attachments DForgiesDriversDoorPanelNearlyThere.jpg (247KB - 55 downloads)
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matte
Posted 2017-07-24 5:38 PM (#544765 - in reply to #531283)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Got to pick the correct thickness from the choices. The board that I used is 3mm and the original I took off was 2.8mm. I'm using the same OEM clips and they fit snuggly with no moving about once positioned for line up.

Yours have come out nicely. Got to be happy with that..



Edited by matte 2017-07-24 5:46 PM
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-07-24 9:22 PM (#544790 - in reply to #544706)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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56D500boy - 2017-07-24 1:41 AM
Not perfect but much much better than what I started with. I haven't bent the pins over yet to lock the trim to the door card. I am going to remove them, stick them onto/into a big piece of cardboard and use my Mother's polishing ball and some compound to shine them up (they were more scratched than I remember them).


I removed the trim strips today and polished them with the Polishing ball and

1. VIM kitchen sink (fine abrasive) cleaner
2. Maguires' metal polish
3. Mother's aluminum polish

Better but not perfect. "Better" is my mantra so I am happy.

The profile of the trim is the same as the divider strips on the deluxe arm rests.

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56D500boy
Posted 2017-07-31 8:39 AM (#545224 - in reply to #544790)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Things that I still need to do:

- Paint the outside of the masonite to help waterproof it. CHECK
- fix the tear in the door skin (iron on patch from behind) CHECK
- glue the door skin to the foam (except the bottom dark blue panel) CHECK
- cut away the dark blue panel and cut an piece of the new matching dark blue marine vinyl that I bought back in Feb. and glue it do the bottom portion of the panel CHECK
- test fit the trim and drill the holes for the pins, etc, through the skin (already has the holes) and the new panel. CHECK
- install the trim NOT FINISHED (in place but the pins are not bent over yet)
- cut the holes for the door and window handles and the armrest in the foam CHECK
- reinstall the keyed door lock CHECK (FINALLY!!)
- reinstall the door handle CHECK
- lubricate the window regulator with some appropriate grease NOT DONE
- add a 6 mm polyethylene vapour barrier on the inside of the door NOT DONE
- install the door panel NOT DONE

Getting there.

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56D500boy
Posted 2017-07-31 11:50 AM (#545232 - in reply to #545224)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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Location: Lower Mainland BC
56D500boy - 2017-07-31 8:39 AM

Things that I still need to do:

- Paint the outside of the masonite to help waterproof it. CHECK
- fix the tear in the door skin (iron on patch from behind) CHECK
- glue the door skin to the foam (except the bottom dark blue panel) CHECK
- cut away the dark blue panel and cut an piece of the new matching dark blue marine vinyl that I bought back in Feb. and glue it do the bottom portion of the panel CHECK
- test fit the trim and drill the holes for the pins, etc, through the skin (already has the holes) and the new panel. CHECK
- install the trim NOT FINISHED (in place but the pins are not bent over yet)
- cut the holes for the door and window handles and the armrest in the foam CHECK
- reinstall the keyed door lock CHECK (FINALLY!!)
- reinstall the door handle CHECK
- lubricate the window regulator with some appropriate grease NOT DONE
- add a 6 mm polyethylene vapour barrier on the inside of the door NOT DONE
- install the door panel NOT DONE

Getting there.

;)


Dave Dave Dave

You forgot to add:

Install upper door trim before the vapour barrier goes on - Partial - changed to stud style clips (2 out of the four - can't reach the other two)
Install middle door trim before the vapour barrier goes on - Partial - changed to spring style and stud style clips - the OE ones seem lame

Upwards and onwards.


Install
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56D500boy
Posted 2018-11-02 9:18 PM (#572824 - in reply to #545232)
Subject: Re: Door Panel Restoration Questions



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56D500boy - 2017-07-31 11:50 AM

Dave Dave Dave

You forgot to add:

Install upper door trim before the vapour barrier goes on - Partial - changed to stud style clips (2 out of the four - can't reach the other two)
Install middle door trim before the vapour barrier goes on - Partial - changed to spring style and stud style clips - the OE ones seem lame

Upwards and onwards.




Can't believe that it is over a year but I did get back to my driver's door panel (finally);)

I removed it a week or so ago and used Auveco 2619 (Geno 17-2619) clips and 10-24 Nyloc nuts for the mid-door trim. I could do 4 of the 5 clips and nuts but I could not get the most forward one started because my left arm is either to short or too muscular. Luckily my neighbour's sister is keen for this kind of work and she offered to help. So she hand started the nut for me. (Thank you, thank you very much). Once it was started I used my 3/8" racheting box end wrench to tighten it up.



So today I decided to finish the job by putting the door panel back on. I had trouble with a two or three of the wire spring clips. They must have been damaged when I first put the panel on last year. So I replaced them with new ones that I had on hand. I thought that would work but during the installation one of the other original clips broke out of the Masonite (MERDE!!). Not sure if the issue was the Masonite or me being too impatient/ham-handed.

Bottomline: I will need to use a screw in a couple of strategic places (or not - I might just ignore the issue for now). I do have a new R.E.M. cardboard door panel that I could use if I wanted to start over. Not up for that at the moment.

I think I like the more modern "Christmas Tree" clips in this application. Next year.

Maybe.

Edited by 56D500boy 2018-11-02 9:20 PM
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