The Forward Look Network
The Forward Look Network
Search | Statistics | User Listing Forums | Chat | eBay | Calendars | Albums | Skins | Language
You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

Nothing in drive
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
View previous thread :: View next thread
   Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Transmission and Rear AxleMessage format
 
b5rt
Posted 2017-02-22 8:31 PM (#534543)
Subject: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 2519
2000500
Location: central Illinois
Rebuilt transmission and new gear selector cable. I installed and adjusted cable according to the FSM. Fluid is at proper level.

R button engages reverse
N button puts transmission in neutral
D button does nothing until engaging 1 or 2
2 and 1 buttons engage in forward gear

This is a fresh restoration and I haven't driven the car except to turn around in driveway. It won't engage forward gears in drive until I select either 2 or 1.

I'm thinking it's a cable adjustment. Would I need to spin the locking wheel in or out to get it to engage gear in drive? Or have I got a different issue? This is the first push button transmission I've dealt with.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Shep
Posted 2017-02-22 9:05 PM (#534545 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 3393
20001000100100100252525
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George)
Get an applicable shop manual and the procedure is clearly outlined. I would agree the cables slightly out of adjustment, doesn't take much to cause this, when you drive it in 2 cnd, does it shift properly?

Edited by Shep 2017-02-22 9:08 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Old Transmission Man
Posted 2017-03-02 12:58 PM (#535021 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive


New User

Posts: 1

I am brand new to this site, having stumbled upon it. I see your question but am not certain what vehicle you are discussing. Since I see you have Mopar's and are discussing a locking wheel I'm going with the 1960 DeSoto. I would highly recommend giving as much info as possible such as transmission model, engine size, etc. If the cable is adjusted properly, and the fact Reverse and the other gears seem to work it could be, it sounds like a sprag (one way clutch) put in wrong. Again just shooting in the dark here. Hope this helps.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
finsruskw
Posted 2017-03-02 5:05 PM (#535030 - in reply to #535021)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive


Expert

Posts: 2289
2000100100252525
Location: Eastern Iowa
I think you need to start from scratch and do the complete adjustment procedure as printed in the FSM that pertains to your car.
for example, the 300-F set-up is quite involved as you might imagine w/2 carbs operated via a bell crank. It is a PITA for sure.

I believe you start on the engine end with everything loose. Then the 1st step involves correctly positioning the mount on the firewall in relation to the main carb rod and go from there. IIRC it has to do w/a short 3/16" rod inserted through slots in the mount to hold it in position while you get the correct floor to acc pedal measurement in degrees. and tighten the carb rod.

Good luck!
Top of the page Bottom of the page
57chizler
Posted 2017-03-02 5:58 PM (#535039 - in reply to #535021)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 3768
200010005001001002525
Location: NorCal
Old Transmission Man - 2017-03-02 9:58 AM

it sounds like a sprag (one way clutch) put in wrong.


That was my first thought too but pushing the 2 button gives forward drive and 2 would still take off the same as in Drive (and Drive doesn't work). More likely cable adjustment or shifter malfunction.

BTW, welcome to the board.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
b5rt
Posted 2017-04-23 5:34 PM (#538698 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 2519
2000500
Location: central Illinois
Finally got time to get under it and start from scratch. The cable adjustment was right on so I moved to the adjustment of the rods. Put the 3/16 rod in and adjust the rod to the transmission which was correct too. Then went to the carb rod which is where I had made my mistake... I believe I had left the rod in place when making this adjustment the first time.

All is well and it now engages the transmission in Drive as well as Reverse.

Thanks for the input.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
57chizler
Posted 2017-04-24 2:35 PM (#538768 - in reply to #538698)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 3768
200010005001001002525
Location: NorCal

Confusing. The mechanical (TP) linkage has nothing to do with the transmission going into gear or not.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
b5rt
Posted 2018-07-08 2:27 PM (#566284 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 2519
2000500
Location: central Illinois
A few months later and I've got a seat in it and brakes that work. Time for a road test.

Reverse is engaged, then neutral, into drive and out the driveway. Went down the street and it stays in low gear and won't upshift. Went back and rechecked my linkage which I believe is correct. Looked up the cable adjustment in my FSM and all seems right.

I've read several times where guys on here state that the only way to know for sure if the cable is adjusted right is to pull the pan and have a look. I went with pictures that Phil the Frenchie shared and mine does exactly what he describes. The ball fully engages each position.. R,N,D,2,1. So my cable adjustment is correct.... but I still have no upshift.

The transmission was rebuilt by the best shop in town and I've never had an issue with the 904 and several 727's I've had them rebuild.

Any ideas on what to do next? My new pan gasket won't be in for a couple days so I'm trying to narrow down the possibilities before I end up having to take the car to the transmission shop.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
57chizler
Posted 2018-07-08 3:22 PM (#566291 - in reply to #566284)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 3768
200010005001001002525
Location: NorCal
What speed did you achieve on the test drive? You might try running up to a higher road speed in Drive, then throttle back to an idle to see if it will eventually upshift.

If not, first thing to do is disconnect the linkage at the trans lever and allow the lever to come full forward. If it upshifts with the linkage disconnected, linkage is the problem.

If it still won't upshift, the problem is likely in the governor or valve body. There is a governor pressure test port on the right rear side of the trans, a test gauge connected there will show if the governor pressure is correct; the FSM shows the correct pressures for a given road speed.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
b5rt
Posted 2018-07-08 5:22 PM (#566296 - in reply to #566291)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 2519
2000500
Location: central Illinois
I did run it up to about 30 mph and with a tiny temporary glasspack it was plenty loud for my neighborhood. If you think I should try some short blasts I can try that when I get it back together.

After that, I will try the trans lever disconnect and see if it upshifts. If it does, should I expect it to downshift with the lever not connected?

I live about 1.5 miles from the trans shop. I'm guessing it will be safe to drive, with the lever reconnected, to the shop if need be. I'd keep the speed below 20 mph.

Top of the page Bottom of the page
ttotired
Posted 2018-07-08 6:34 PM (#566302 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert 5K+

Posts: 8443
50002000100010010010010025
Location: Perth Australia
Give it to the trans shop.

But I would also try it with the kickdown linkage disconnected. It will take of and be in top gear quickly if that's the issue

It will change up and down but not into 1st (from memory) and obviously no kick down

If the problem is internal, then let your tans guy fix it because if its something they did and you mess with it, it gives them a legitimate escape

Top of the page Bottom of the page
b5rt
Posted 2018-07-08 8:05 PM (#566307 - in reply to #566302)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 2519
2000500
Location: central Illinois
I don't plan on going into it for that reason, if it's something they did wrong the pressure gauge should show it like chizler said.

My issue with driving it to the shop would be that I remember something about Mopar transmissions have to have the kickdown hooked up or you risk burning it up. If it quickly goes to high gear that would be ideal for engine operation, just wondering what it does to the clutches.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
57chizler
Posted 2018-07-09 12:58 PM (#566346 - in reply to #566307)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 3768
200010005001001002525
Location: NorCal
The trans will upshift and downshift with the linkage disconnected. Driving short distances at light throttle with the linkage off won't hurt the trans, it's long distances and/or hard throttling without linkage that will kill the trans.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
b5rt
Posted 2018-07-11 8:23 PM (#566488 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 2519
2000500
Location: central Illinois
Finally got my new gasket after Speedy Delivery took it 150 miles in the wrong direction. Filled it with fluid and disconnected the transmission lever. It's still is stuck in low gear. It will be next week before I have a chance to talk to the transmission shop owner.

On the other hand I got thumbs up from 2 neighbors while blasting down the street.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
b5rt
Posted 2018-07-28 8:49 PM (#567351 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 2519
2000500
Location: central Illinois
Took it to the shop where they had it for a few days, put 14 miles on it and said it had "a couple valves sticking". He asked if the engine was a fresh rebuild too which I said yes. He figured that and said he upped the shift points so the engine wouldn't "lug". It now shift to 2nd at 18 mph and high gear about 30 mph. Not my ideal shift points but he said to bring it back in 1500 miles when everything is broke in and he'd adjust it down.

Today I drove it about 5 miles to get the front end alignment set. Going there it shifted as he said. The return trip home I noticed it wouldn't freewheel when I let off the gas. So I'm driving at 30 in high gear and with my foot off the pedal it's like it's got cruise control. When I brake it easily slows the car down but no doubt is not good for brake wear. Also, by the time I got home it would not idle down but instead stayed at about 1200 rpm or so.

I rechecked the linkage and it's set up like the manual says.

I'm getting tired of the running around and trying to get it dialed in for the Desoto Nationals in a couple weeks. Still need to get exhaust made and fit some trim. And my job has gotten much busier.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Shep
Posted 2018-07-29 4:31 PM (#567374 - in reply to #567351)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 3393
20001000100100100252525
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George)
Well a 1200 rpm idle speed is high enough to cause the car to feel like cruise as you describe, you need to resolve that issue then retest.
Top of the page Bottom of the page
b5rt
Posted 2018-07-29 5:37 PM (#567375 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 2519
2000500
Location: central Illinois
In neutral, it idles about 700. After I got home to the high idle I pushed back on the throttle and it went back to the 700. When I released, it's like the transmission lever is pushing forward and opening the throttle slightly to the higher idle.

My question: If he's got the pressure purposely set high, would that cause the lever to push forward and open the throttle?

The throttle return spring feels like the right tension and looks original. It works properly up till now. I'm guessing a band-aid would be a new return spring.



Edited by b5rt 2018-07-29 5:39 PM
Top of the page Bottom of the page
ttotired
Posted 2018-07-29 6:13 PM (#567378 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert 5K+

Posts: 8443
50002000100010010010010025
Location: Perth Australia
I am quite sure the kickdown lever should slide in a slotted hole before activating, it should basically be a bit "floppy" at idle.

If its able to hold the throttle open, its not adjusted/set up correctly

No idea why anyone would bother messing with the shift points, but anyway

Top of the page Bottom of the page
1960fury
Posted 2018-07-29 8:07 PM (#567382 - in reply to #567378)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert 5K+

Posts: 7385
50002000100100100252525
Location: northern germany
ttotired - 2018-07-29 6:13 PM

I am quite sure the kickdown lever should slide in a slotted hole before activating, it should basically be a bit "floppy" at idle.





What? I had the impression, you are driving a FL car? Not?
Top of the page Bottom of the page
wizard
Posted 2018-07-30 9:49 AM (#567418 - in reply to #534543)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

Posts: 13042
500050002000100025
Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
The throttle valve cannot be forced by the pressure.

The throttle valve is a pressure regulating valve which provides a pressure in accordance with throttle opening, from 0 pressure at closed throttle to approximately 90 psi at wide open throttle. The throttle valve is a spring loaded 2-spool valve.


@ Mick, the slotted hole is for adjustments only and the nut should be properly tightened after adjustment.

@ Greg, make sure that the rubber grommet and plastic sleeve are in proper shape on the throttle valve arm (otherwise the adjustment will never be correct)
Also, make sure that you move the throttle valve arm in the right direction when you adust the linkage.






(Resize of Rotation of Copy of T-F_P-Series_page_011b.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Resize of Rotation of Copy of T-F_P-Series_page_011b.jpg (39KB - 158 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
57chizler
Posted 2018-07-30 1:57 PM (#567432 - in reply to #567418)
Subject: Re: Nothing in drive



Expert

Posts: 3768
200010005001001002525
Location: NorCal
I believe the "slotted hole" Mick is referring to is the later slotted rod that connects to the carb lever.



(Rod.jpg)



Attachments
----------------
Attachments Rod.jpg (115KB - 151 downloads)
Top of the page Bottom of the page
Jump to page : 1
Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page]
Jump to forum :
Search this forum
Printer friendly version
E-mail a link to this thread

* * * This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated * * *


(Delete all cookies set by this site)