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Pertronix ignition question.
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59ride
Posted 2017-03-24 7:19 PM (#536615)
Subject: Pertronix ignition question.



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I recently changed over to the Pertronix ignition,replacing the dual points in our 59 Firesweep. Do I need to bypass the ballast resistor to aid in faster starting ?Thanks.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-03-24 8:44 PM (#536620 - in reply to #536615)
Subject: RE: Pertronix ignition question.



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59ride - 2017-03-24 7:19 PM I recently changed over to the Pertronix ignition,replacing the dual points in our 59 Firesweep. Do I need to bypass the ballast resistor to aid in faster starting ?Thanks. (O)


As I understand it, the issue is with the coil not the Pertronix. The normal coils can't handle the full 12V all the time, hence the external ballast resistor to drop the voltage to the coil. That is the same for points or Pertronix Hall sender.

The way around that is to buy the Pertronix Flame Master (or whatever they call it) which has an internal resistor and can handle a constant 12V input. It also puts out 40,000 V (according to Pertronix) instead of 4000V or so.

At least that is what I did when I installed a Pertronix 1383 (CH392) kit into my dual point 1BK - 4301A distributor on my D500 315 hemi.


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57chizler
Posted 2017-03-25 3:56 PM (#536643 - in reply to #536615)
Subject: RE: Pertronix ignition question.



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It's all about the coil's primary resistance, the instructions say:

Four and six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance and eight cylinder
engines require a minimum of 1.5 ohms of primary resistance. Do not remove resistors if the coil primary
resistance is less than specified.
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ttotired
Posted 2017-03-25 5:39 PM (#536651 - in reply to #536615)
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignition question.



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With electronic ignition, 99% of them work better with a 12V coil and the ballast system removed

Original coils that were fitted to ballast ignition systems are wound on the primary side as 8V coils and the ballast resistor
is there to drop the "running" voltage down to 8V

Replacing the 8V coil with a 12V coil (primary coil is wound to 12V, if there is a resistor inside the coil, it is there to quench it, not drop voltage) gives
the electronics full power to work properly

Because the spark that is generated using electronic ignition is greater than a points system (all other things being equal) the ignition bypass (ballast bypass)
system is not required anymore for the purpose of giving full battery power to the coil, except some vehicles actually drop the ignition power feed off totally
on crank, so its needed so the coil does still get power) but there is no reason to remove it.

The resistances above are about right for the 8V vs 12V primary winding differences, but it does not mean 6 or 8 cyl engines, it simply is ballast or non ballast ignition system

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LD3 Greg
Posted 2017-03-25 10:31 PM (#536659 - in reply to #536615)
Subject: RE: Pertronix ignition question.


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59ride - 2017-03-24 7:19 PM

I recently changed over to the Pertronix ignition,replacing the dual points in our 59 Firesweep. Do I need to bypass the ballast resistor to aid in faster starting ?Thanks. (O)


Starting in 59, Chrysler used ignition switches that had an extra terminal labelled I-2. It was wired to bypass the ballast resistor and put 12V to the coil but only when cranking the engine. Hence the question!

As stated, I would recommend buying the 8 cyl, "Flamethrower" Pertronix coil and completely bypass the ballast resistor and put 12V to the coil all the time. I think you will be pleased with it!

Greg
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59ride
Posted 2017-03-26 8:38 AM (#536679 - in reply to #536615)
Subject: RE: Pertronix ignition question.



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I have installed the Flamethower coil so now I can safely bypass the ballast resistor. Correct? Thanks for all the help
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mstrug
Posted 2017-03-26 9:32 AM (#536681 - in reply to #536615)
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignition question.



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Yes, if you installed the coil that is specified in the kit. The instructions should tell you what to do. If you have the ballast and want to keep the original look; you can run a hidden wire behind the ballast from one side to the other.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-03-26 11:26 PM (#536740 - in reply to #536681)
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignition question.



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It all depends on the specific system that you installed! Read the instructions. For the Ignitor I, you still need 1.5 ohms primary resistance for the ignition system to work properly. This primary resistance can come from a combination of the coil ( .5ohms for the stock Chrysler coil) and the ballast ( 1 ohm), or you can remove the ballast and get a coil with 1.5 ohms built into it. Either way, you are cutting the power to your coil & ignition module. The Pertronix 1 is like the original Chrysler electronic ignition and can't handle full supply voltage & current. For the Ignitor II & III, I understand that this limitation was removed. So with those systems, you should be able to run a low resistance coil like an HEI coil with .3 ohms primary resistance without any ballast. BUT...the stock Chrysler coil can't handle direct supply so you would need to change it out with a coil that can handle it.
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56D500boy
Posted 2017-03-27 3:11 PM (#536764 - in reply to #536740)
Subject: Re: Pertronix ignition question.



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Powerflite - 2017-03-26 11:26 PM
It all depends on the specific system that you installed! Read the instructions. For the Ignitor I, you still need 1.5 ohms primary resistance for the ignition system to work properly. This primary resistance can come from a combination of the coil ( .5ohms for the stock Chrysler coil) and the ballast ( 1 ohm), or you can remove the ballast and get a coil with 1.5 ohms built into it. Either way, you are cutting the power to your coil & ignition module. The Pertronix 1 is like the original Chrysler electronic ignition and can't handle full supply voltage & current.


I just got off the phone with Pertronix technical assistance to confirm what I have is good. I told them that I have a Pertronix 1 ignitor (1383/CH392) and one of their FlameThrower coils and I was concerned about needing or not needing a ballast resistor. I was told that a 1.5 Ohm or 3 Ohm coil doesn't need a ballast resistor but for less than 1.5 Ohm, e.g. 0.6 Ohm, I would need a ballast resistor. He asked me what coil resistance I had and I said that I did not know. He said that there would be a label on the coil that said what the resistance was. I said I would check and thanked him for his time.

I didn't actually check the coil because I found the box that it came in. It is a 40011 Flame-Thrower (1.5 ohm) black. So all good.

The box also says "1.5 ohms suitable for 8 cylinder engines; use 3.0 ohm coils for 6 and 4 cylinder engines, except in racing applications where 1.5 ohm coils may be used".

Still good.

Not to find my miss.

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59ride
Posted 2017-04-10 6:25 PM (#537807 - in reply to #536615)
Subject: RE: Pertronix ignition question.



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The ballast resistor has two wires going to it. Do I connect these together to bypass the resistor? Thanks.
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Powerflite
Posted 2017-04-10 6:40 PM (#537808 - in reply to #537807)
Subject: RE: Pertronix ignition question.



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That is one way of doing it. You could also remove the ballast and solder a solid copper wire to the backside and then hook it up normally.
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